Deecanios first build the "DC1"

Hey Y,

i rode for 10.5 miles using 7ah. i basicaly played in the bowls for 45 mins or so and i thrashed full throttle for about three miles to my other playground for a quick blast then home.
The ride was fun although i did come off once,lol tried to turn to sharp and the front slid out on me - the forest floor is very leafy though!!
I am set on changing the bike as soon as i can get hold of Joz and Dave.
I want to go to 24's now and also change my packs :shock:
i think i can get a much lighter battery pack and setup so all my kit is contained within the triangle and also i whilst changing to 24's i want to do the metal gear upgrade and see if its possible to beef up the phase cables too.
The plan now is to go to 24's/uprate my pumas phase wires and metal gears - i want to have Joz make me an A123 pack (voltage will depend on how many cells we can get in the triangle) and im hoping that having up to 80a available (point 1's only do 35-40a) will give me some more torque to compensate for the larger wheel??? - also im hoping that the puma phase wires can be beefed to take the extra amps - metal gears are on he way so im hoping to swap in the next couple of weeks.
Lots to sort out but im really enjoying the bike now - soon it will be just how i want it !!!!! :lol:


Cheers


D
 
Nice scenery indeed Deec, I can see why you like riding there.

80A will be a bit much for the winding's i'd guess, its not the phase wires that are the weak spot anymore! I'd reccomend a thermostatic switch in the motor to protect against overheating if you want to try. As I said before though, over 60A and you dont really get much more torque, the motor is already saturated.
Any joy finding any A123's yet? Ebay prices not looking so good these days..
 
deecanio said:
Hi All,


now i'm riding the trails that i usually ride im realising more that the balance in what i want from my ebike is changing, as a lot of new forum members i see in the threads my goal was as much power as i could carry leaving me zero pedaling except up the steepest hills - which is exactly what i got :) however the torque is more than good enough at 20" and i think the loss of some torque in a 24" wheel in exchange for full size cranks and gears is a fair trade.
i had been on the pedals today and managed to pull 6.5ah from the pack before lvc - i was expecting to get 9ah or so from them as i got that from each pack when i was running 36v, but i guess because im running in series (or thrashing more ) im going to get less?
Anyway loved the ride today, will be going again tomorrow too :) - i have a lot of thinking to do before making the final adjustments to the bike so i'll keep you posted on what im thinking, always good to hear others opinions :)

cheers

D
Click to expand...

D, that is a nice piece of engineering you have. For me, I intially wanted to build the fastest bikes I could afford, with no real intent on pedaling at all. I think this is everyone's first reaction when realizing the potential of these machines. However, after riding my bikes for a sufficient period of time for the lust for speed to wear off, something is changing. I usually now travel at speeds that allow me to have a positive effect on momentum through my 50T X 14T big gear setup. I am actively now blending my pedalling with throttle.....and then invariably I crack the throttle open, get her up to 40mph, then slow down and start pedalling again :roll: ...but I am getting better. doing this less and less.... Where it seems to be heading for me is to have a bike with sufficient gear selection to go fast, medium, and slow with pedal input tailored around the intended terrain. My desire to test the limits of speed has been explored, and now I think i am more moving towards overall human/machine synergy and maximum range.
 
Jozzer said:
Nice scenery indeed Deec, I can see why you like riding there.

80A will be a bit much for the winding's i'd guess, its not the phase wires that are the weak spot anymore! I'd reccomend a thermostatic switch in the motor to protect against overheating if you want to try. As I said before though, over 60A and you dont really get much more torque, the motor is already saturated.
Any joy finding any A123's yet? Ebay prices not looking so good these days..
Click to expand...

Hi Mate :)

well the thing is i will have the potential to run 80a with the A123's but as you know my xlyte controller is set up for 50a on the pot you put in for me so im initially hoping to beef the phases and run at 60-72v 50a - i only draw peak amps rarely so im hoping that the puma will deal with 50a no sweat?? also i hope that 50a gives me some of my losses from increase in wheel size back ??? i am totally happy with my torque and top end as is so my hope is that with 50a instead of 35a and with gearing changed from 32/17 to 42/16 i will not notice/lose too much going to 24's?? do you think that it may balance out??
with the A123 pack capable of 80a i will always have the option to upgrade motor (im hoping that the next batch of pumas will take more amps).
I havent looked at the cells yet as i dont really know what im looking for - is it the 9360's i want?
i will need some Joz love on this front :) - is it 80 cells i need? giving me 72v 8.8ah ???
I have spoken to mark and he has penned me in for a set of metal gears and a throttle so hopefully all things will come together and when i have the wheels re-laced (have you heard from BOB?) it will be a good oportunity to beef the phases if needed and get the metal gears in - i left the audio in the vid quite high so ppl could hear that once the cam is off the bike they get a truer reading of how quiet the puma is - the birds are louder than the motor lol :)


Hi Lenk,

yes im finding that i want exactly the same ability as you - as in to be able to pedal assist at every speed.
Initially i geared for single speed for 32/17 but my ability to help the motor out ends at 8mph with the current gearing.
I looked into putting on a 6 speed cluster but i have an issue whereby if i space out my frame to fit it it only leaves me a little axel sticking through which i found is cross threaded at that point which i need to tighten the &*%%$***!!!!!!!
so..... i have to stick to single speed ( unless anyone knows of a screw on cluster less than 27mm wide?) until i get a new motor ( i wont get one until the new puma is available) - being as im going from 20" wheel to 24" i'm hoping that by changing the gearing to 42/16 (best i can get in single) this will stretch out my peddaling range some - im hoping for the ability to pedal to at least 18mph which i figure is a good cruising speed.
The puma will pull me anywhere i want to go BUT being as i cannot assist at 8mph+ anytime i want to travel a couple of miles to anew playground i have to waste valuble battery power to take me there - i see this as a waste especially when im travelling on flat and i could assist if i had the relevant gearing!!
Anyway i'm set on a A123 pack - it will give me more options for future motor/controller combos and i have a better design idea for mounting - my current setup is good but a little heavy - i guess 27lbs for 2 x lipo and cages - i think i can get this down to sub 20 without a problem.
When the new puma is available i will be able to have a cluster and this will end the gearing issue but for this season i will have to stay single speed.
Any thoughts on my options would be great !!!!


Cheers


D
 
I think it will balance out fine just as you suspect m8. If your motor is the older one with original phase wires then they will need a look at, if its one of the newere ones it will be fine as is. If it needs doing, I can sort it for you, and at the same time I'll pop in a thermostatic switch to trip at 80 degrees just to be on the safe side:)

You are indeed looking for the DC9360 packs, 80 cells will give 66v 8.8AH. This will probably feel pretty much like 72v from the point1's, since the A123's will sag alot less under load:) Hope you find some at a reasonable price. I'm ready to make the pack when you get them!

Looks like your having fun in the meantime anyway :lol:

Steve
 
Hi DC

Nice video man, need to do a little edit on it to cut out some of the gaps! I really must get to meet with you when the weather picks up mate, I have settled great in to my day job now so I have more time and more money! ha ha even better!! I think we can make a nice video together mate! I got some nice new tyres for the BMX and some new brakes on the way, the BMX now runs on a 37V lipo and a 24V NIMH in series, its a perfect balance of power and speed just mind blowing.

I want to get out tomorrow and have a bit of a film as the weather looks really good so may get and edit something up for later, the BMX is motoring its the most fun you can have, I have been darting everywhere on it lately I love it.

Thanks for the video of your bike, you need to get your lady wife to film you riding, if not I will come see you with the KMX and the BMX and the cameras!

Knoxie
 
Hi Joz,

excellent, i was hoping that i could swap wheel size and have exactly the same (give or take) performance.
i have the "old" type puma so maybe we can take a look at the cables when we replace the gears, it should handle 50a i suspect?
I'll keep an eye out for the cells - if you see any give me a shout!! im not sure if Doc is getting anymore but he said he'll let me know as and when.
i will have to do the math on the frame and see if i can get 80 cells in the frame, will probably be a very tight fit but im hoping to get 66v at least - i dont want the pack to be too wide though - i will have to have a play with which way to face them and how wide that makes the pack.
Yes had a lot of fun that day and back on charge today :) (best part of the new pack will be charge time !!!)
I will hold on until i get the gears and then i'll send the motor down again if your up for it? :) - i need the gears changing/ a blob of weld on the shaft as mine isn't keyed/ a thermostatic cut out (will this use the brake inhibit connector on the troller?) and then when its all done maybe paint it black lol - then it will need to go to bob to be laced into the 24's and tyres i have picked out already :) - it may be easier to bring the bike down for pack fitting? go see Joz in the workshop :)



Hi Knoxie,

yes had a LOT of problems with the video mate - i recently upgraded to a genuine OS and i have had nothing but hassle lol - moviemaker won't import mp3 making me change the audio to WAV so thats why it sounds choppy - it was recorded on the action cam so picture isnt great, your right need the wife to take some film on her cam.Does anyone know of a good editing software????? (i dont mind buying if its reasonably priced).
Also had a the problem of not knowing whether i was in shot or not as theres no screen on the camera to set up, i just chucked it up a tree and had to hope for the best - then it wouldn't let me split the clips to edit out the dull bits, meh its not too bad and mostly i wanted to show you guys the new playground i found last week :) - the forest never fails to surprise me and each run i find a new place to ride, normally just as im running out of juice!!!
Your welcome to come over anytime you like mate, i'll get on and post my address to you on hotmail, good to hear you've been out and about on the bikes again i've missed your posts and vids on the forum!!
the bmx sounds like a hoot, not to mention it being the spiritual mother to my kona!! - i think that'll be the bike to bring over for a hour or so in the forest - we sure could make something nice vide wise i reckon with a chasing cam, awesome.
Glad things are going well on the work front - i take it alls well with new lady too? quick mate take my advice blow some money on bike kit before you get married and its all gone on household gear !!!!! hehehehehe
get out there and show us what your up to mate!!! been too long!!


Cheers


D
 
Hi DC

Didnt get out on the BMX my camera lady had to baby sit! so I went up my mums to clean out the gutters!! thankless job that is would much have rather been racing my little BMX around, I will get and do some more BMX stuff soon, I have been messing around today with the trek, the Puma on that one has a problem with the gears, from a standing start they slip and spin, only when you are rolling do they start engaging, this is a problem for sure, I stripped the motor today twice and marked up the rotor and the rotor gear, the hub and the hub inner gear, just to make sure that they werent slipping, I put it back together, it slipped and then I opened the hub again, all the lines i had made still lined up ok so it is very obvious although they look OK visually that the Puma gears are slipping between the main rotor drive gear and the 3 x planetary gears.

I suspect the excess power has been wearing the cogs down, they look ok but they cant be, I must try and get hold of some replacement nylon ones before I replace them with steel ones,the steel ones will be ok but noisy I guess, new nylon ones will be fine, Dont forget you dont need to remove the freehweel or hall plugs and phase connectors, and cassette in order to change the gears you can simply pull the whole thing out with the top plate and all, then using a cheapo Argos crank puller and a pair of circlip pliers you can strip the gears off, on my puma they are held on with circlips on other Pumas they are press fitted and should be easily removed with the same crank puller.

I have got the HPC catalogue at work so I can take a gear in and measure it then order some in and get them machined out, unless I can find a supplier that supplies them with the bearings fitted.

Keep an eye on the Gadget show in the next few weeks, it appears that the Gadget show people have been watching some of my vids and contacted Mark at TH about getting bikes on the show, they are having a show featuring the optibike soon! I also saw Tony Castles lurking in the background as well!! seems my videos have been doing some good then!!

Cheers

Knoxie
 
Nice one Paul....all the more reason to make some more :lol:
 
Hi

Couple of pictures showing the gears, the one in my hand is the BMX Puma type of gear arrangement and the other one is similar to your one, the gears are the same size although the BMX looks like the inner support is thicker? the shaft posts the gears sit on?...need to strip them both down to check, the picture without my my hand in shows the gear that is slipping, the cogs all look good visually but they must all be worn down evenly it the only thing that will make them slip, its very hard to gauge the backlash in the gears, they need to have some backlash for sure, I remember in my RC car days though that the gears would eventually go even though they looked ok to the eye.

Some new nylon ones should do the trick, the BMX ones (in my hand in the picture) have done zero miles they are off a BMX motor I have here that has a damaged casing, the other one in the wheel has done 3,000 miles or so, not bad on one set of gears, even though they both look the same the older gears must be well worn? I cant explain it otherwise? the stamped Pumas gears like in your and Jozzers and my Raleigh bike seem to be much stronger than these ones and I havent heard of them failing other than the little trials bike Mark at TH did but then that was to be expected, if you talk to Mark ask him about nylon replacements as well, I think steel will be superb but a little too noisy for me!! on the road and if the Nylon ones are nice and cheap I dont mind a re-grease and a new set every 3,000 miles, it only takes 3 mins start to finish to do the job, nice and easy and you could do it almost yearly, no different to servicing your car if you like!

Heres the pictures.
 

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hey Paul,

nice one mate - thats gives me a look at the inside without having to look just yet although it's inevitable at some stage.
In my vid i also left the audio loud so you can hear what happens when you ask for power that the gears cant handle - its a godawful sound at the 1.35min marker like a loud ratcheting sound? i have heard it four or five times now but there doesn't seem to be a particular pattern that i've figured out yet, im not that worried as i was expecting some problems thanks to your research at this power and the motor bowls on regardless after the brief noise :)
Im not really too worried about the extra noise as the nylon gears are really quiet imo and i can imagine the steels to be too much worse? i'll guess we'll see, i'd take the noise hit to make the puma more robust, once my gears and non keyed drive are sorted i will have full confidence in this gem of a motor :) - my only worry with replacing the nylon gears is that mine haven't been ridden that far and jump already so as im going to 50a i wouldnt think they would hold for my use?
Great news on the gadget show!!!
wonder what mark will show? opti obviously, hopefully the show wont do a dull review, could pep peoples interest up no end!
I have just ordered some more kit myself :oops:
the 24" rim,tyres,tubes are bought, as is the 42t front ring and bash guard - annoying as i already have a 32 bash guard but there you go.
i will see what mark is saying on timescales for the gears - or if you find out about metal replacements please let me know mate!!
im in the market for A123's too although these seem to be like rocking horse shit at the minute :(
Thanks for the tip on getting the motor apart mate, that means i can get the wheels laced up and change the gears at my leisure (i think) - i'll be looking for a decent 16 t rear freewheel if anyone knows of any good ones? - i dont understand the chain sizes and stuff to get the best fit, it seems that when i look for a small freewheel they are bmx? and i dont think it has the same pitch as the new 42t myb front ring that i bought so i need some help here :roll:
Anyway glad to hear that the bmx is up and stonking- we will have a meet in the summer mate and get some film :)


cheers knoxie,


D
 
Hi DC

Yes thats the sound!! I think over time all Pumas will do this if run at the high powers we are running, mine has been doing this for ages and on the road its not a problem, it may hinder you with your style of riding so I would go with metal and get some good silicon grease in there, I have been looking around for Nylon or tufnol replacements, there is a nifty formula on one of the sites for working out the loads on the gears, I will use that and order the appropriate gears. Metal ones will of course be rock solid but they will be noisy, I dont mind changing them, honestly its easy to do it I can do a little video to show how quick you can do it, I suspect at 72V even new Nylon gears will start to slip and wear quickly, I may just go for steel and be done with it and do a yearly clean and re-grease, a full steel Puma wont ever slip I am sure and if looked after will last for ever! I think I will try and get a Nylon replacement done first, I will let you know where I get them from, you can find the gears in most stockists, I think I will have to get the bearings machined and fitted in, this wont cost me as there are some very talented machinists at my place of work! and a whole bunch of lathes and milling machines, I may even knock up a box full if people want them, be good to have stock in, I want to also make some decent torque arm kits for the Pumas, I have something really nice in mind! Count the teeth on the gears see if you count the same amount as I did!! :lol: oh and dont worry about it on your bike, it will get worse as they wear though make sure you get a set from Mark as soon as you can.

Make sure you watch the gadget show though, you can read all about it here.

http://groups.google.com/group/Tidalforce/browse_thread/thread/83ff305b23f38851#

Knoxie
 
Hi Mate,

yup called mark re: the metal ones the other day and they're on order along with throttles - i want a replacement as i overtied mine and found i had no throttle on full lock, lesson learnt on tie tension, its working fine again now but i thought i'd get a backup.
Any info you get on gears will be great also, im hoping to fix my issues and keep my puma for a long while yet - which reminds me i wanted to ask if its easy to change the gears yourself is there any point in looking at ratios within? just wanted to know outta curiosity really.
thanks for the heads up on the gadget show - i checked out richards thread and pics and they look great, really looking forward to the show!! Monster was there - i hope they give him a clip and mention the homebrew scene too as they're are some good bikes out there that dont cost the earth :)
I bet richard loves that opti - i would, i like what theyve done at the front with the lights (looks blade like) but im not soo sure about the long fenders - stick some triple crowns, fat tyres,beef up the rear shock for 5" and put some lithium in it and you can have me money :) and no mudguards!!!!!
seriously tho nice bike, im quite jealous :evil:
my gear should arrive this week so i'm trying to get hold of my wheel man to see when he can build my new sizes- hopefully i will be able to get them laced and then straight over to joz for gears and an overtemp stat - oh thats something else i meant to ask - if joz fits a temp stat for my foree into 50a/3kw teritory and uses the brake inhibit can i also have a cut out switch from my bars to the same connection?
anyway let me know how you get on mate and we'll catch up for sure.


cheers


D





Knoxie[/quote]
 
HI Mate

Yes you can wire the over temp stat and the bar switch in series, I use a mini moto kill switch for mine, 5 quid off fleabay works superb, I don't use button stats any more but it is a good idea when you bump the power right up.

I have been looking around at alternate gears sources, I am currently checking out the best type of plastic to use, there is a very interesting material called Nylatron, its well worth doing, now as far as the other gears inside you cant change them, the main rotor gear is press fitted in to the rotor and is way too much bother to change (trust me its a job and a half to put it back!) so you are kind of stuck. The problem I can see arising though is that some pumas you can change them and others will require you to drill off the tops, leaving you to having to drill and tap the supports and fit a screw and a washer.

I will explain, the BMX ones are press fitted, the bearings are lowered on to the supports and they simply press the end to a burr to hold the bearings in, the old puma on my bike has circlips which is fine and easy to change, now the new Pumas I am not too sure and even your type the stamped type I havent had apart (Jozzer? ) so technically they can be changed on all Pumas but some will be easier than others, it seems that all the plastic gears are of the same size, so is Mark stocking the Nylon ones as well?

Yes Papas report was superb and the Opti is a cracking bike IMHO, pricey yes but very cool, this one is an 800W version and will have the Lipo pack and Tag wheels shortly, I think that will make a big difference.

P
 
Hi Mate,

Good news on the gears - hopefully the material will pan as the best of both worlds, quiet and strong.
i'll go for the kill switch off fleabay as i seem to be spending a lot of time there anyway looking for cells :)
the 800w li should be sweet and Richards opti will look the nads when he gets his tags (i wish they did hubs!!) - i still dont like the bolt on guard tho - fugly imo, but i guess if i'd paid that much i would want to keep it muck free too :)
Let us know how you get on with the gears mate - i'll call mark again later in the week and see if he has any timescales on he metal ones he's ordered and ask if he's getting the nylon ones too.
I should get my wheel set next week (rims were on back order) so im hoping to have my bike fully complete BEFORE the end of the season - i know i should ride what i have this year but i just want to kick on now and get her done - it's been a looooong road and i think i will be totally set with the new wheels and power setup........... all im waiting for now is a MORE powerful puma and my bike should rock hard!!!!..... Lets do a opti vs kona head to head this summer!!!!! hehehe :twisted:


Cheers


D
 
Hi all
I have a new puma (TH stamped 320rpm at 36v) on order from Mark for the Kmx I'm building http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4189&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a I ordered metal gears for the puma when I ordered it, I will be putting up the results on the thread above, the metal gears are not surplied fitted, so I need to put them on myself I got a long arm gear puller but may need some help, is there a thread on changing gears on a new puma?
 
Hi Geoff,

I dont think there is a thread - Paul has posted the best pictures of the gears but most if not all of the probs we are discussing are with the very earliest batch of pumas from TH (these were the test motors and i just couldnt wait so bought one too).
If you read through you will note that Joz has has no probs at all with any of the later iteration of the motor.
Paul had some of the very earliest kit for testing and through his fault finding the later editions have addressed most if not all of the early edition issues.
Might be worth dropping Joz a mail to see but im not entirely sure that you will need the upgrade? Joz could confirm.
I bought a very early version of the motor in december 2006 !!!! and mine is the "old" type like pauls (not the bmx, i think the trek?)
Anyway Paul is looking into th early versions for himself and me really to see if we can keep our early pumas whoopin ass :)
I am going to get another puma from TH myself so i will have both versions to compare but i think the "newer" version will be just fine :) - i think paul said he will post up the repairs for the old school motor but really is reference for the original owners like paul and myself.


cheers


D
 
Hi

Yes DC is right, the new Pumas may be ok, time will tell, they are certainly a much better design than the old ones, if you need to replace the gears its very simple, tools you will need are a long arm puller (argos sell them) they are pretty cheap, you need some circlip pliers and a cross head screwdriver.

You don't need to remove the power connectors or hall plugs to do this either, simply unscrew the screws in the top plate, some will be stiff so be careful and try not to cross the heads, if you do you can drill the heads off and turn the thread out with some pliers. once the screws are undone you will need to make sure you remove the wheel nut opposite the power end of the axle, you can then simply pull the drive unit out whole.

Once out remove the washer on the axle and you will see a circlip, you need to remove the circlip and slide it off the axle next attach the gear puller so the arms sit under the planetary gear base, then tighter the puller against the end of the axle, the whole thing should lift off pretty easy, once its off turn the whole thing over you will see the underside of the gears, now on some of the pumas the gears are pressed in and cant be removed, you should be ok though on the new ones, they sometimes use circlips on then and sometimes they use a hooked circlip, either way with small enough circlip pliers you should be able to remove all 3. (watch it when you remove the circlips as they have a tendency to fly off!)

There will be 2 x washers on top of each shaft, remove these and lift the gears off.

When reassembling remember to make sure that no debris gets in the wheel or the gears, do it in a clean place (the kitchen) if you can, note the key in the shaft make sure the key is sitting flat when you slide the mech back on, wiggle each gear so they engage on the drive gear, then using a small hammer carefully tap the edges of the mech in a circular motion so that the mech moves down the shaft, it should centre ok on the shaft, tap it down just far enough for you to get the shaft circlip back on.

Dont forget to fit the flat washer back over top.

Good luck with the motor, I found the 320 rpm motor to be the best I have tried so far, its got great top end and plenty low down as well!!

Knoxie
 
Hi All,

well after moaning and bitching about my bike setup i decided to hold on and see what panned out before having my new 24" wheels laced up.
My mrs suggested i go for a ride yesterday and i thought why not? - i had some extra kit delivered with my wheels so i thought i'd fit a new sprocket and bash ring then go.
I had a new 42T chainring that can be mounted on either the outside or middle ring of a standard crank so i mounted it on the middle and took off the inside ring (22T) completely as i dont use it an dont plan too so why carry thye weight? anyway put on the 42T and a new E-Thirteen bash ring, same as the old one but obviously bigger to cover the new 42t front ring.
I did notice that the new ring had much better teeth than the old - kinda like tom cruises teeth compared to ken dodds!!!
anyway powered up, a nice 83.4v showing :twisted: and off i rode for the forest.
As the UK weather ha been good and i mean GOOD :) the forest trails had dried right out allowing me to ride them instead of the paths - the new chainring setup was perfect!!!! not one slip of the chain, i had assumed it was the back as i have a bmx freewheel but now i guess it must have been the front as this was solid and i was able to pedal for much longer - maybe to 19mph from standstill ,i was using motor too but i can assist for much more time now giving me back some power that i had to waste previously. You'll know i didn't pedal unassisted as im a lazy so and so but even using the pedals with the motor increased my range really well - i had covered 10 mles by the time i had used 4 ah. i think i am finding the righ blend now using the puma to pull me up silly hills and the occasional squirt of throttle when i need to keep the cranks straight and concentrate on not coming off (which happened twice :roll: ).
The difference for last ride was immense - didnt take a camera and i had a much better ride for it - really took the trails as fast as i could and the kona just soaked up everything i threw at it ( i guess i would expect that).
Soo, what to do now??? i was so impressed yesterday that i did consider no changes but there are just a couple of bit i want to swap.
First off i still want 24" wheels - but i want to retain my puma, i have toyed with x5 a lot lately but after whipping through the singletrack yesterday and managing not only to wheelie over bumps but to get air more than a few times i have decided that for my riding the puma is the best motor bar none!!! i have had a little sniff at getting a second puma and we'll see how that pans out but in all honesty i already have the motor i want in my 24's in my 20's.
Secondly i need to change my pack - my point 1's have been performing well and they do give me enough performance, owever i think i can make a better pack (thats i think joz can make me a better pack) usng A123's - benefits will be that my charge time will be reduced from 4 hrs to 1 hr :lol: and also be able to give me up to 80 amps!! - the puma is not built for 80 amps, but never say never and if i do get an x5 i'll be able to push it hard - as it stands i'll be trying to run my puma at 50a and im hoping that i wont notice any difference than now at 35a in 20's - we'll see.
I'll be sending the motor off to joz soon as he gets chance to look and hopefully well be able to sure up the gears and that will be that - i think with a lighter pack, a bit more power this will be the holy grail for me :)


cheers guys

D
 
Hi all
well done D I hope you had a lot of fun over the weekend.
On the subject of pumas and pulling the gears, I already had a puma(BMC stamped) and so desided to try a dry run on opening up the puma and taking off the gears (I had bought a gear puller) to both see if there were any problems,see how dificult changing the gears will be when I need to and practice.The results were that the gears came off half an inch then stoped I could push the gears back down but after several times it would not move any further, I will just have to wait for the new motor to arrive and see what that is like?
 
mmmmmmm.

I have the BMC stamped type too - do you have any pics Geoff???
i would love to see as the insides will likely be the same as mine.
Yes yesterdays ride was a complete blast - i actually found myself laughing as both wheels left the ground on quite a few occasions - yesterday was the first time i thought i actually do need a helmet, but i have do have my eye on a met parachute now :) - maybe ill be convinced when i get a bit more power :twisted:


Cheers

D
 
Hi D

See told ya! ha ha that little bike is a fun rig for sure, glad you had a good time on it mate, I did some prodding on the ebikes site, I f you can stomach the extra weight the X5 in a 20 inch wheel will produce pretty good torque it will give you 105lbs against 112 that you have now, so you would be down a little, however you could go way over this if you ran 100V and 80A and used A123 cells? the only downer being the weight and the fact that all that weight would be bumping around underneath you.

I think the X5 would rock in a 16 inch wheel as well!! straight spoked

For the road the X5 is a good choice, off road the Pumas weight is its saviour, still enjoy the dry weather mate and go burn some rubber.

Geoff I am surprised that you struggled to get the gear plate off, sounds like the key is getting stuck in the shaft, give it a few gentle taps using a hammer and a piece of wood to protect the surface of the plate, it should come off with a little persuasion.

Good luck

Knoxie
 
Hey mate,

Yes it was a corking ride - i had forgotton how good the puma is on the trails, i was really quite down with the bike last week but i think that was because the trails were sodden and that only left me the bridleways which are nice but a bit flat and straight.Being as i could only pedal to 8mph the ride was very uninvolving - kinda like riding a moped on the motorway :) Then i rode the bowls - great fun but again the bikes too heavy as is to jump from one into the other and the clearence doesnt allow for sharp drops (bash rings rule!!)- but then sunday i wasn't going to bother but the mrs give me a nudge and im sure glad she did :) - i picked up the cam but i had crap in my pockets already - phone,keys,fags hehehe - so left em all and just took 1 key - thats the way to ride!!
Soon as i take the kona on the trails it really begins to shine, i was whooping down the trails as quick as i liked (would dare with no lid) and soon as i came to any hill thats when i remembered why this motor rocks - torque for hill climbing, it's good, very good :)
also the weight - my bike is jumpable as is and my packs are heavy!! - i guess at near on 30lbs, maybe 28 say, the puma is only 8, i just cant bring myself to swap that for 25lbs no matter how good the x5 is. If i make a roadbike x5 it is but for off road i have to go with puma every time :mrgreen:
i had one or two ratchets but im getting much better at avoiding them - i remember the guys saying that you have to learn how to ride electric and now i've had some rides im getting much better, bit of pedal here, full throttle when the goings good, no bogging ever :)
My worst fear now is that i'll screw my motor so i will see when joz can take a look and fit the stat for when i up the amps to 50, and also what can be done with the gears, i need a solution to this one like you wouldn't believe mate - im also really hoping that the change in power and gearing will almost compensate for having the 24" wheels?? this would be the dream ticket for my needs - the 24's give me just that bit more clearence and confidence,i do tend to lose the bike in rutty conditions with the 20's, although i have ditched the bike twice now, no damage, no problems.
the plan now is to get some 123's - 66v 8.8ah was the choice but now im thinking 66v6.6ah. With help the kona can run for an hour easily and when i say help i mean im pedaling but the motor is doing at least half - i used 6ah on sunday and it was perfect, by the time id had enough i still had juice to throttle only home - so why carry the extra 2 packs? i need to find out how much that config will weigh in cells but i can beat 30lbs im sure and that will make the kona lighter still :) massive plus for the bike is the 1 hour recharge time and the ability to belt out 80a.
i wont run the puma over 50a however.
im hoping that she'll hold up and i'll get the balance im looking for between power and weight and wheel size - the bikes performance now is just right, i just need to maintain it on 24" wheels :)



Cheers


D
 
66v 6.6AH = 4.2 kg :p
 
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