Deecanios first build the "DC1"

[deecanio]

Hi mate

really? can someone check my math??? 4.2kg = 9.24lbs?
So if i can get 66v 6.6ah at 9.24lbs and lets say another 6lbs ish for packing them up that would mean that im only carrying approx 25lb for my whole kit, and i mean my whole kit :lol: that would be totally awesome.
Let me know when you get some time Joz - i'll be sending my wheel down for an overhaul first off then i'll worry about relacing once i get the new pack.
So im looking now for 60 cells? i'll get on the case!!!


Cheers


Andy

 

[Mark_A_W]

I thought the UK was metric? How come you lot are using lbs's and getting all confused??

 

[Jozzer]

Its only a few old diehards (and deec) that still use lbs and inches around here
Send your kit down when you like Andy, I'll squeeze it into the days work somehow!
Getting nicely busy here these days

 

[deecanio]

awesome. thanks joz
the only time i dont want to use pounds is when i have to pay
i've decided not to piss about with batteries, the price on a123 is on the rise so im thinking i may as well go to fleabay and get 6 brand new packs at £75 each - this way im hoping that we get good cells throughout and i wont have to buy 7 or 8 packs to get 60 good cells!!!
they do the sealed packs so i guess they will be brand new?
Anyway i'll get the wheel down as soon as the packs arrive - may as well wait then i can send/drive the wheel and the batts down at the same time?
i had a spot of car trouble but im getting it back today hopefully so i will be able to bring them down and check out the jozbike if you have time for a visit?
let me know mate and i'll order the batts tonight - if you take a look at the motor we can see the best way to mount the pack - im thinking i will still take the whole triangle for my cells but build the pack triangular so that there may be space for another 3 packs if i need them.
one thing i did wonder is if i have 6x10 cells does that mean i will have 12 balance leads and 6 pairs of output leads? how will this config work for charging etc??
i need idiot proof

cheers guys


D

 

[Jozzer]

Cool Deec, I look forward to your visit

Only 1 pair output leads, i'll work out the balance leads to be foolproof too, but more like 2 pairs of those too.

 

[deecanio]

super cool m8 8)

i reckon i'll buy 6 new packs and figure out how to mount them with room to spare.
im not sure how i plan to keep them in check yet but i do know that the pack will be 1 cells length wide!!! i think i have plenty of room to house 60 cells and my controller in the frame (so glad i bought the 19") - im hoping we can stick them in so that the pack is super slim (cells width and packing) maybe 70mm wide total 8)
i will strip the bike at some point and get the measurements for the frame - but maybe i'll bring the whole bike down for the fitting?
Anyway will make arrangements soon mate - i'll just get on and buy the packs then we are in business - halfing the weight of my kit is going to be awesome - cannot wait.I'll have to see if Bob will me do me a private on the lacing
oooh will i need another balancer and will i need new chargers? looking for 1 hour recharge tops?


cheers Steve,


D

 

[Jozzer]

Lol...i bid on a few "faulty" dc9360's last night...someones outbid me...was it you? Maybe we ought to get coordinated so we dont end up in a bidwar :lol:

 

[deecanio]

lmao, no it wasnt me mate ;p want to buy some packs?

well im looking at all the "new" packs - i'll be buying 6 sealed singles if poss - i see elegance is selling another 6 but i mailed him and told him to invoice me previously and he never came back? weird.
i saw the faulty's but im hoping to get 60 good in one hit.
one seller has come back to me and will do me six, just waiting for a reply on whether they are actually "new and sealed"
do you have a standard dewalt charger so the packs can be tested??? i could send them straight to you if thats ok????
anyway i'll let you know what im bidding on so we dont push the price up for each other!!!lol

cheers

D

 

[Ypedal]

Phew.. long read.. i fell behind on this thread. all back up to date now.

Dee : Don't do X5 for your type of riding preference, on the paved jungle it does rule.. but off-road it's too heavy to get any amount of air.. ( makes for one hell of a hard landing.. trust me.. i tried ! :lol: )

Well.. ok... you " Can " do it, but i don't recomend it . :wink:

I think what you would need is a chain driven setup !!

Funny you mention " learning to ride an ebike " .. that's a thread in itself !!! you learn to throttle and pedal and shift and brake at the right time to keep things smooth and efficient ! lol..

 

[deecanio]

Hey Y,

yes its a long read alright but hopefully it will help someone else avoid the errors i've made and copy the sucessful bits
the x5 is firmly out, the puma is staying and having a joz mod so i can juice it just a little more - tbh the performance is spot on as is, any more and it'd be in the motorcycle range and thats not what im after - a dh that'll beat a gas scoot is just fine
we're hopping up amps from 35-50 and going to 24's - im not sure on my math here, but im hoping the upped power will cancel the move to 24's and leave me exactly where i am now with performance but on 24's.......... and carrying 20lbs total kit weight instead of nearly 40!!!! the kona will be leaner and meaner to say the least!!!!
i would say that the weight saving is the best aspect to get me to push on and buy the final kit, but it's actually a combo of reducing charge from 4 hours to 1 and finishing the bike astethics all rolled in too - should come out real nice
yeh there is definately an art to it mate - i get more runtime each ride as i wise up to using the power well.

cheers


D

 

[Jozzer]

YEs Deec, got a dewalt charger here to test them with

Interestingly, that seller cancelled my bids just now...I guess someone else made a bulk offer!

 

[deecanio]

A123.
it's a dog eat dog market :lol:
i mailed you something to look at if you get chance

cheers

D

 

[deecanio]

Hi All,

long time since i posted in my thread but not much has happened to the bike as im working on putting it on the 24's with a bit more power, things moved slowly for a while there due to work and illness but we're moving again now.
Parts have arrived now and Jozzer has my puma to check out/beef up for the 50a to come from the new arrivals - 6 packs of dc9360 dewalts 8).
im going to have a 66v 6.6ah pack with these and steve estimates that the cells alone will only weigh 4.2kg, nice!! i plan on keeping them as light as possible thereafter and making them into a pack including controller all mounted in the triangle with the deec touch, should look very smart.
im hoping that the power/torque increase will help lessen the loss of torque caused by the move to 24" wheels - if it performs as well as it did on the 20's i'll be totally stoked
i still have the problem of gearing, i need it.
i have limited space to work with,i think the measurement was 26mm available so most cassette/freewheels are out.
my wheel sits bang inline with space for a huge disk, without any dishing, and with this space of 26mm, and thats exactly how i want it to stay - im not comfortable with stretching the dropouts and it is also not doable as my motor axels arent that wide to accomadate a 5spd, i tried.
Currently i have a bmx (i guess?) freewheel which is 17t and i have a single 42t on the front with bashguard and thats it. i removed the inner and outer ring to save weight and this 42t sits on the midle position on the crank, this lines me up perfectly with the rear 17 t giving me a nice straight chain line.
Now as im going to 24's i will have the option to use the deraileur as a deraileur and not as just the tensioning i used it for on the 20's so i have an option to have rear gears agains, but again there isnt anything off the shelf that i can just screw on the rear thats slim enough (is there?).
So - here's my thought - is there any reason i coudln't buy a new bmx freewheel maybe 16t and also buy a shimano cassette?
my understanding is that cassettes are grooved spline affairs and freewheels are like mine,screw on?
what im thinking is i have seen a shimano cassette that looks modular in its approach to gearing whereby each cog slides on to a grooved spline effectively giving the choice of tooth sizes all the way down, anyway if i got one of those i could take the cogs i wanted and have them welded to either side of the bmx freewheel sprocket? - would it hold? too much pressure on one side when in 1st or 3rd?
IF this is possible i was then thinking that i still have the original 3 speed front deraileur lever, id have to have a new longer cable fitted to reach the rear but.....if i knew what the spacing was between the three standard front rings could i then weld the say 12t and 20t ring either side of the freewheel cog at exactly the same spacing making the indexing spot on? is this right? am i losing it?
im hoping this is possible as i could then pick my high/low teeth to suit and 16t makes a good "second gear" anyway :lol:
what do you guys think ? possible?


Cheers


D

 

[Miles]

D,

You can get sprockets singly.

You won't get anything less than 14t over a standard BMX type freewheel body (for some 16t would be the minimum)

If you'd settle for 2 speeds, maybe you could use one of these?: http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/SSFW/WINDFWDOSENO

 

[deecanio]

Hi Miles,

thanks for the link thats better than anything ive seen thus far - why would they only do such small increments it doesn't make any sense? a 16/22 would have been ideal
if anyone spots anything else please let me know in the meantime bookmarked the link,thanks again miles.


D

 

[geoff57]

hi all if you are going to try to push the Amos as much as that you could do with my new cable fittedthat way you have much more beefy phase wires, I've fitted one to a mk1 puma.

 

[Lenk42602]

DC,

i don't remember what you are looking to do with this bike - I think off road? if that's the case, my suggestion would be to go with a single bmx frewheel in the back, reinstall the rear derailleur, adjust so the pulleys and derailleur ride just underneath the rear cog, and then run three chainrings up front. I have a short (2-3 inches) bit of shifter cable run from where the cable housing enters the derailleur to where the shaft cable clamp holds the cable. Tensioned it enough to get the pulleys under my freewheel, fine tuned with the cable tension adjustment knob.

If you're off roading, and then need a ballz out gear to get you to and from the house to the woods, I would suggest running a standard BCD crankset (rather than compact "microdrive") and run a 22, 32, 50 chainring configuration. You will need a front derailleur that can afford this max front chain ring tooth difference. Also make sure your rear derailleur is a long cage, for the same reason...

Len

 

[Miles]

Hi Miles,

thanks for the link thats better than anything ive seen thus far - why would they only do such small increments it doesn't make any sense? a 16/22 would have been ideal

D,

It makes sense if you think of it, not as a multi-speed but, as 2 separate options for a single-speed setup. In that case, you could use it without a derailleur mech. and the 2t difference in chain slack would be accommodated within the range of adjustment of the rear hub.

3 speed freewheels used to be readily available, but not anymore. Sunrace make a 16 -20 -24 freewheel, which would be ideal for you, but it's only available in large quantities for OEM, no-one stocks it. Coincidentally, I wrote to them about it, last week, I'll let you know if anything comes of it.

Miles

 

[geoff57]

hi all
I've got a bike bits and pieces friend who is on hoiday at the moment when he gets back I'll ask him if he has any ideas.

 

[deecanio]

Hi All,

sorry i tried to post replies last night but my line was down,again.

I've got a bike bits and pieces friend who is on hoiday at the moment when he gets back I'll ask him if he has any ideas.

yes that would be great Geoff thank you - im still pretty sure i would like to have one made - miles's two speed is still a good viable option but knowing how the bike rides i'd like three rear sprockets,ideally 20/16/12 or something.
The 2 sprocket freewheel is $90 im sure for that sort of money i can get an hour or so with a good engineer and get something good? that said i still might get the 2 speed and just add a third

Hi Miles - yes please do, if you hear anything from them that would be ideal
my main problem here i think is the smallest cog - do they do a 14?lol - also i need the deraileur for tensioning as the rear of the bike has lots of travel.
do you have a link to the 3spd? (EDIT, found)

DC,

i don't remember what you are looking to do with this bike - I think off road? if that's the case, my suggestion would be to go with a single bmx frewheel in the back, reinstall the rear derailleur, adjust so the pulleys and derailleur ride just underneath the rear cog, and then run three chainrings up front. I have a short (2-3 inches) bit of shifter cable run from where the cable housing enters the derailleur to where the shaft cable clamp holds the cable. Tensioned it enough to get the pulleys under my freewheel, fine tuned with the cable tension adjustment knob.

If you're off roading, and then need a ballz out gear to get you to and from the house to the woods, I would suggest running a standard BCD crankset (rather than compact "microdrive") and run a 22, 32, 50 chainring configuration. You will need a front derailleur that can afford this max front chain ring tooth difference. Also make sure your rear derailleur is a long cage, for the same reason...

Len

Hi Lenk,

tes off road only and the bike takes some hits too - i have my draileur exactly as you have yours so it wraps nicely around my single speed - i was going to tension it with some cable as you have but found once i tied the deraileur to the frame the cage was spot on, more by luck tbh but it worked beautifully.
the three fronts is looking like a good option but i dont want to lose my bashguard (for some reason every trail in the forest has a tree across it at somepoint).
i could go 2 speed up front but i just spent out on a 42t ring and bashguard to fit


i'll see how we go on each avenue and hopefully we will figure something out - thanks for the help guys this is my one remaining problem then all will look good on the 24" wheels with much better assist



cheers


D

 

[Miles]

Hi D,

Pity this has French thread....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=370059480480

I guess one of us should buy it to play with....

Why do you need less than 16t? Can't you just get a bigger chainring....?

 

[deecanio]

Hi Miles,

lol i just came back to paste that very link :lol: know anything about french threads?
i think a 16 will do - im reluctant to change my 42t single up front as i just bought it and a bashguard to match, also i think it will be easier to have the chain stretch across 16-24 at the rear rather than across 22-50t at the front? or do i not get gears at all? lol (questions own logic).
either way 3 spd at the rear is preffered, i have run 42/17 so far and it was ok to 20mph but useless at standstill - given that i will have 24" wheels soon do you think that 42t at the front and 16 at the rear would let me pedal at 30mph? i think it will let me assist to 25mph and that would be enough, having a 20 and 24 at the rear would be absolutely sweet 8)


cheers


D

 

[Miles]

No need to speculate, just play with this: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

Thread specs here: http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html I think the French threads will be a bit tight..... Also you'll need an 1/8" chain for that one. Might be worth getting it to try..

 

[deecanio]

thanks miles, ill take a look now -mmmm it isnt 90$ thats for sure - ill watch it

cheers


D

 

[Miles]

$90... but it is, without a doubt, the best quality freewheel you can buy