MitchJi
10 MW
Hi,
Quieter (vs 11t)?Miles said:
D's RC Drive Kona DC1
- Thread starter deecanio
- Start date
MitchJi
10 MW
Hi Miles,
You mean again? :lol:Miles said:Yes, quieter and smoother..... Assuming stealth is STILL a factor........?
meh stealth,smealth 
i would like to change for a smoother operation but it will depend on whether or not i can get an identical tapered 13t sprocket?
the one i have now is mounted onto a shaft that was made to fit complete with keyway etc, im not sure if i recall where i got the original sprocket from, must be in the thread somewhere, chaninging to a 92t is easily done but i guess its the 11t we really want to change what with the cordial effect and whatnot
D
i would like to change for a smoother operation but it will depend on whether or not i can get an identical tapered 13t sprocket?
the one i have now is mounted onto a shaft that was made to fit complete with keyway etc, im not sure if i recall where i got the original sprocket from, must be in the thread somewhere, chaninging to a 92t is easily done but i guess its the 11t we really want to change what with the cordial effect and whatnot
D
AussieJester
1 TW
Hey Deec...what frock motor did you used to use wasn't a BMC by chance was it? Matt.P is wanting
one for his MTB build now but there is some sort of hold up on them atm... If yours wasn't
the BMC what was it? do you still have it? is it geared? and do you want to offload it
for a reasonable price?
Cheers matey
KiM
one for his MTB build now but there is some sort of hold up on them atm... If yours wasn't
the BMC what was it? do you still have it? is it geared? and do you want to offload it
for a reasonable price?
Cheers matey
KiM
hi mate,
frock motor was indeed a bmc, their known as puma's from the uk source (teamhybrid).
i only have an old casing left, the last one i had died a tragic death when bob jumped it down 3foot or so and had partial throttle on when landing, peanut gears followed by a complete lock up due to double quick swap up with hammer :lol:
they are pretty damn good tho, for a frock motor
D
frock motor was indeed a bmc, their known as puma's from the uk source (teamhybrid).
i only have an old casing left, the last one i had died a tragic death when bob jumped it down 3foot or so and had partial throttle on when landing, peanut gears followed by a complete lock up due to double quick swap up with hammer :lol:
they are pretty damn good tho, for a frock motor
D
AussieJester
1 TW
deecanio said:hi mate,
frock motor was indeed a bmc, their known as puma's from the uk source (teamhybrid).
i only have an old casing left, the last one i had died a tragic death when bob jumped it down 3foot or so and had partial throttle on when landing, peanut gears followed by a complete lock up due to double quick swap up with hammer :lol:
they are pretty damn good tho, for a frock motor
D
Agggh bummer Deec...I missed that you frocked the frock <--couldn't resist that one buddy hehee Hence the
move to something more :: cough :: suitable for your jumping needz...we are still waiting for some crazy footage
of the Deecmiester you dropping off 40 foot cliffs and pulling backflips of trees and the like, i know i know
the whole motor isolated from the cranks thing is holding you back, i feelz your pain buddy, i feelz your pain
KiM
hi mate,
yes it's been painful waiting and waiting but im finally getting my bits together for another crack, allbeit with an sram but hopefully i'll be able to ride it till it breaks then figure something better out, derailer 219?
im just going to get a bigger extron, 92t (only £5) and a 12t, i couldn't find a 13t that would match my current 11t and i want a straight swap so i'll use the 12t from gocartgalaxy and not have the hassle of fitting, these tapered drive sprockets are such a pita but i do already have a suitable shaft that the 12 will swap straight onto.
i need to measure up for a motor mount arm so i can let matt know if it'll fit then i need to ask matt for all sorts of extras to complete the setup.
The sram is on its way and to save me lots of agg i bought another 24" halo rim so i can have it laced into that, the cost of swapping to my existing rim isn't much less than buying a new rim but has the added benefit of if the sram goes tits up pretty quick i can swap the eno's straight back onto my original rim and be running again albeit at sinlgle motor speed.
Im away soon but im hopeful that all my cack will be delivered shortly - i need to see if i can get Matt to chuck some extra stuff in my astro delivery and then i'll be all set with only the chain tension issue to look at once im all assembled.
BTW Matt,
can you show me a pic of the seatpost mounts please? and can i have some in black? i will also need two new pulleys, miles suggest 24/50t and im wondering if they can be lightened and black too? lol
BUT most importantly what size are those grub screws in my motor pulley - need to get that arm off so i can measure up more accurately!!!
Cheers,
D
yes it's been painful waiting and waiting but im finally getting my bits together for another crack, allbeit with an sram but hopefully i'll be able to ride it till it breaks then figure something better out, derailer 219?
im just going to get a bigger extron, 92t (only £5) and a 12t, i couldn't find a 13t that would match my current 11t and i want a straight swap so i'll use the 12t from gocartgalaxy and not have the hassle of fitting, these tapered drive sprockets are such a pita but i do already have a suitable shaft that the 12 will swap straight onto.
i need to measure up for a motor mount arm so i can let matt know if it'll fit then i need to ask matt for all sorts of extras to complete the setup.
The sram is on its way and to save me lots of agg i bought another 24" halo rim so i can have it laced into that, the cost of swapping to my existing rim isn't much less than buying a new rim but has the added benefit of if the sram goes tits up pretty quick i can swap the eno's straight back onto my original rim and be running again albeit at sinlgle motor speed.
Im away soon but im hopeful that all my cack will be delivered shortly - i need to see if i can get Matt to chuck some extra stuff in my astro delivery and then i'll be all set with only the chain tension issue to look at once im all assembled.
BTW Matt,
can you show me a pic of the seatpost mounts please? and can i have some in black? i will also need two new pulleys, miles suggest 24/50t and im wondering if they can be lightened and black too? lol
BUT most importantly what size are those grub screws in my motor pulley - need to get that arm off so i can measure up more accurately!!!
Cheers,
D
AussieJester
1 TW
deecanio said:
Hopefully not a geared hub? Did you read my report yesterday on what my 3 speed hub is doing already under heavy acceleration, cracks and slips and complains profusely if i give it stick Deec, i honestly think i could snap it with the twist of the throttle...just aint made for the torque im afraid...ENO ordered freewhel hub laced will be 'bomb proof' soon
KiM
yes i know i know my sram dually will surely die
As yet i havent managed to order the damn thing as prowheelbuilder comms sux tbh so i've mailed jenson and aebikes to see what they can do.
im still willing to try one on the basis that i won't be giving it a fistful from the off and i nearly always pedal when i have the option.
im still convinced that i will get away with it because i like to ride with a 50/50 mix for the most part and i weigh 140lbs wet so it will at least have a chance, this is why i'll stick it in a new rim so i can swap back instantly if needs be.
if i use just a standard cassette freewheel hub with my enos although i can have 3spd pedal by using three rings up front i'll be stuck with single motor speed - this will only give me a top end of 17mph i believe we calculated so i really need some gears, the sram is my only option for that as far as im aware and im not overly convinced delta wye switching gives you a virtual 2 speed either?
im happy to have a punt tbh mate as long as the sram doesnt cost me too much, we also have the unknown of how well the broached enos will hold up also to worry about so at worst i guess i will obtain more info for the group onwhat breaks and when
D
As yet i havent managed to order the damn thing as prowheelbuilder comms sux tbh so i've mailed jenson and aebikes to see what they can do.
im still willing to try one on the basis that i won't be giving it a fistful from the off and i nearly always pedal when i have the option.
im still convinced that i will get away with it because i like to ride with a 50/50 mix for the most part and i weigh 140lbs wet so it will at least have a chance, this is why i'll stick it in a new rim so i can swap back instantly if needs be.
if i use just a standard cassette freewheel hub with my enos although i can have 3spd pedal by using three rings up front i'll be stuck with single motor speed - this will only give me a top end of 17mph i believe we calculated so i really need some gears, the sram is my only option for that as far as im aware and im not overly convinced delta wye switching gives you a virtual 2 speed either?
im happy to have a punt tbh mate as long as the sram doesnt cost me too much, we also have the unknown of how well the broached enos will hold up also to worry about so at worst i guess i will obtain more info for the group onwhat breaks and when
D
liveforphysics
100 TW
The splines aren't going to strip. Not a snowball's chance in hell the splines will strip. We dump 1000ft-lbs of torque through smaller diameter splines in automotive racing. They aren't as shallow as these, but I'm 100% certain that the splines would not be the weak-link. If you have a spline related failure, I will send you a pair of new ENO's on me. That's how confident I am about the splines holding.
The hub could break of course, but Gary hasn't had any trouble with his, and he weighs a lot more than you, and he is putting equal power through his.
The Dual Drive is not the Stormy Archer. Metallurgy and the tiny machining details have a huge effect on how durable a gear set will be. The Nexus-3spd hubs are proven to hold up with excellent reliability against the guys using them with E-tek powered trikes. They don't look much different inside than any of the other 3-spd hubs that break, but apparently they didn't cheap-out on the metallurgy and tempering, hardening, tooth profile, etc like the cheapo hubs seem to have done.
We dump 1000ft-lbs of torque through smaller diameter splines in automotive racing. They aren't as shallow as these, but I'm 100% certain that the splines would not be the weak-link. If you have a spline related failure, I will send you a pair of new ENO's on me. That's how confident I am about the splines holding.The hub could break of course, but Gary hasn't had any trouble with his, and he weighs a lot more than you, and he is putting equal power through his.
The Dual Drive is not the Stormy Archer. Metallurgy and the tiny machining details have a huge effect on how durable a gear set will be. The Nexus-3spd hubs are proven to hold up with excellent reliability against the guys using them with E-tek powered trikes. They don't look much different inside than any of the other 3-spd hubs that break, but apparently they didn't cheap-out on the metallurgy and tempering, hardening, tooth profile, etc like the cheapo hubs seem to have done.
AussieJester
1 TW
liveforphysics said:
No its not but the pics you posted of yours gutted look pretty much identical to the innards of what i use buddy...yours will be the ultimate test though, crank up those dualy Turnigys mate see how she holds up
I guess on a mtb too with shorter wheelbase you have to ease it off the line lil more or it will simply flip and spit you on your back, i have the luxury of a longer wheelbase and more forward weight i guess, my tire has snoball in hells chance of breaking loose with my weight and all the rubber in contact with the bitumen haha, something has to give, first it was the reduction drive mount i made, then it was the wheel moving, now all this is rectified the hub is protesting :-S And you want me to go with more power Luke you are a sick sick man my friend i gues thats why a ilikez ya so much hehehe ?KiM
you know i havent even looked at the nexus hubs 
mmm must take a look, in trhe middle of my night shifts tho at the mo Luke and i know you know whats that like, especially when you stay up before the first shift making it a 24hr day
thanks for the vote of confidence mate, i'll not be looking your way if the enos strip for replacement, hell i wouldnt even be able to try them if you hadn't made them for me, like anything ebike imo you pay your money and you take your chances.
mmmmm nexus. any linkies? whats the most robust baby they do? get both the enos on there?
talking of the enos, a question i asked miles a while back, i notice that although they freewheel sweetly there is a little rub between them, i think i need a fine washer to seperate their bodies as there is slight contact, any thoughts?
ive conceded a while back that the bike will always be in evolution so even if my new setup fails somewhere theres always the next version
D
mmm must take a look, in trhe middle of my night shifts tho at the mo Luke and i know you know whats that like, especially when you stay up before the first shift making it a 24hr day
thanks for the vote of confidence mate, i'll not be looking your way if the enos strip for replacement, hell i wouldnt even be able to try them if you hadn't made them for me, like anything ebike imo you pay your money and you take your chances.
mmmmm nexus. any linkies? whats the most robust baby they do? get both the enos on there?
talking of the enos, a question i asked miles a while back, i notice that although they freewheel sweetly there is a little rub between them, i think i need a fine washer to seperate their bodies as there is slight contact, any thoughts?
ive conceded a while back that the bike will always be in evolution so even if my new setup fails somewhere theres always the next version
D
AussieJester
1 TW
deecanio said:
.05mm aluminium or copper sheet a rule, box cutter a pair of scissors and 2 minutes or less of your time
KiM
liveforphysics
100 TW
KiM's advice will end you up with a spacer/washer. Doing the outside is very easy to get perfect. Doing the inside with the razor knife is quite a lot more difficult... get enough sheet to let you start over when you botch it and slice through the outside. lol
This is the hub that has proven itself to hold up long-term against E-tek and Mars torque levels on trikes. The problem is, it uses the full width of the rear stays all to itself. No splines, and no room to mount two independent sprocket setups. This is why the SRAM DD is such a special hub, because it has the space needed and splined area.
http://sheldonbrown.com/nexus.html
This is the hub that has proven itself to hold up long-term against E-tek and Mars torque levels on trikes. The problem is, it uses the full width of the rear stays all to itself. No splines, and no room to mount two independent sprocket setups. This is why the SRAM DD is such a special hub, because it has the space needed and splined area.
http://sheldonbrown.com/nexus.html
AussieJester
1 TW
Do you own a Dremel Deec? If not why? The are such a hand little tool for the workshop/house...
If you do, pop on a sanding drum, roughly cut the inner hole of your washer/spacer and
with the knife enough to get the sanding drum on the dremel in and simply remove the excess material
with the dremel/sanding drum. You can get near perfect circle like this, i have done countless 80/120mm holes for case fans
on PCs using this method. If your not to handy with knife and scissors the cut off disks on a dremel make short work of
aluminium sheet too...
KiM
If you do, pop on a sanding drum, roughly cut the inner hole of your washer/spacer and
with the knife enough to get the sanding drum on the dremel in and simply remove the excess material
with the dremel/sanding drum. You can get near perfect circle like this, i have done countless 80/120mm holes for case fans
on PCs using this method. If your not to handy with knife and scissors the cut off disks on a dremel make short work of
aluminium sheet too...
KiM
Ypedal
100 TW
Hmm.. all these hub failures make me apreciate my NuVinci, yes it is heavy ( no good for off-road ) but it takes it like a champ 
... i need a sticker for my RC that reads " My Bike's Got Ballz "
Anyone have a source for those 3 speed nexus's ?
... i need a sticker for my RC that reads " My Bike's Got Ballz " Anyone have a source for those 3 speed nexus's ?
Thud
1 MW
D,
I am curious, you want the multi speed hub for the Pedaling side of your serial drive set up.
Is that correct?
Just wondering what the weak points of your previous set up were, and what the ultimate set up you are striving for entails.
( I know its in here some where.....seem to be a few tangents in this thread :lol: )
I have an anchient shimano 3 speed (before the word NEXUS was concieved) and am modifying it to put 1 or 2 freewheels onto. I will post it on my next "build" thread.
A short description is: grinding the hub back where the current sprocket is mounted with the circlip and welding a 1.375 x 24 threaded section onto it.
The spacing is looking fine for 2 freewheels.(haven't decided if i will include pedals yet ) pawls are easyly replacable & look to be the weak link in my old shimano.
If you are off road, I have to think you would want the lightest set up you can get.
I am curious, you want the multi speed hub for the Pedaling side of your serial drive set up.
Is that correct?
Just wondering what the weak points of your previous set up were, and what the ultimate set up you are striving for entails.
( I know its in here some where.....seem to be a few tangents in this thread :lol: )
I have an anchient shimano 3 speed (before the word NEXUS was concieved) and am modifying it to put 1 or 2 freewheels onto. I will post it on my next "build" thread.
A short description is: grinding the hub back where the current sprocket is mounted with the circlip and welding a 1.375 x 24 threaded section onto it.
The spacing is looking fine for 2 freewheels.(haven't decided if i will include pedals yet
) pawls are easyly replacable & look to be the weak link in my old shimano.If you are off road, I have to think you would want the lightest set up you can get.
12p3phPMDC
1 kW
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http://aebike.com/product/nexus-inter-3-disc-brake-hub-sg-3d55-32h-135mm-sku-hu7885-qc30.htm
She's a beauty!!
I think this is where I got mine.
You'll need a 6 bolt splined adapter to interface with the left hand disc side.
The NEXUS seems to be a blend of roller clutches and a ratchet....It is super quiet, but you can hear some clicking.
She's a beauty!!
I think this is where I got mine.
You'll need a 6 bolt splined adapter to interface with the left hand disc side.
The NEXUS seems to be a blend of roller clutches and a ratchet....It is super quiet, but you can hear some clicking.
Thud said:D,
I am curious, you want the multi speed hub for the Pedaling side of your serial drive set up.
Is that correct?
Just wondering what the weak points of your previous set up were, and what the ultimate set up you are striving for entails.
( I know its in here some where.....seem to be a few tangents in this thread :lol: )
I have an anchient shimano 3 speed (before the word NEXUS was concieved) and am modifying it to put 1 or 2 freewheels onto. I will post it on my next "build" thread.
A short description is: grinding the hub back where the current sprocket is mounted with the circlip and welding a 1.375 x 24 threaded section onto it.
The spacing is looking fine for 2 freewheels.(haven't decided if i will include pedals yet
If you are off road, I have to think you would want the lightest set up you can get.
Hi to all,
i purchased the dual drive today from aebikes (thx for the link btw) in the Uk i was quoted £310 for the disk hub alone
but at aebikes i bought the hub and the trigger shifter for $360 including shipping - i still need to get the cable and the clickety box but i'll probably bite the bullit and get them in the uk.Thanks for the links and advice, the sram wins out for the reasons Luke states (for my build).
Thud,
i took the internal geared hub for a couple of reasons - firstly with the gearing im going to use i would only have had a top speed of 17mph, with the 3 speed this becomes 17/24/31mph so a good reason there, secondly i dont really want to have a triple chain ring upfront so again the sram gives me pedal 3 speed - i know from having run a 15t rear to a triple upfront that three pedal gears is enough so this time around im having a 16t on the sram and a 52t or 54t single upfront.
The beauty of the sram with the two freewheeling eno's is i have total pedal and motor independance - i can pedal only, motor only, or mix it up to any degree i choose, which is the best feeling in the world as i used to have this with my hub setup - it allows me not to waste my batts by helping on the uphills and not using them at all on the downs and flats, unless im feeling particularly lazy.
One thing i dont quite know yet is how the pedal and motor gearing will work in tandom, with the hub it wasnt an issue as the motor speed could be modulated just with throttle to match the cadence of the pedals, this worked out just dandy however with the rc motor low rpm causes heat in both motor and esc so what i will need to do is see how the motor behaves in each gear and then try to match it by changing the gearing of the pedals to suit, this can be done in various ways for example if the motor is at good rpm but i cant keep up on the pedals i'll need to try the shlump crank effectively giving me a 74t upfront, if the motor is at good rpm and the pedals are like turning stone then ill have to go with a smaller front chainring - i wont know until the bike is running.
Miles uses the term synergy, this is what im after but on an adjustable scale controlled by throttle.
to be absolutely honest, ive been trying to emulate the exact performance i had with my hub motor for the last two years
i would still be using that setup had the hub been upto the task of offroad, my end goal is to have that throttle controlled synergy but with a system that lets me ride rough, the sram may or may not last we'll see.Problems with the previous build were this feeling of controllable synergy was totally gone, driving through the crank meant massive drag when pedaling only, i could only assist the motor briefly in each gear before the motor took off making the pedals obsolete so i ended up with an electric motorbike when all said and done, not what i want. The main problem was that i had to use battery power ALL the time, even pedaling on flat, i can normally go out for two hours on 6ah riding synergy in my noraml style, with the last setup i was home after 45 mins having wasted 8ah.
i'm really hopeful i will get my total control back this time tho so fingers crossed
D
liveforphysics
100 TW
World's first #219 chain pitch 159tooth lexan sprocket? Huge thanks to Thud for writing the G-code and helping me through step-by-step.
When I hold this thing up to a 26" wheel, I really don't think you're going to want to get any bigger than this D.
[youtube]fC9dWIQxfec[/youtube]
When I hold this thing up to a 26" wheel, I really don't think you're going to want to get any bigger than this D.
[youtube]fC9dWIQxfec[/youtube]
amazing
yes its a bloody big sprocket for sure Luke, and i only run 24" wheels
the monster was my option for direct drive, however it looks like i may be able to get reduction of 2-1 leaving me only needing a 92 or so still im up for having one if they go on sale, nice work dude - any chance of a few pics ? next to a 26" wheel for comparison would be cool.
D
yes its a bloody big sprocket for sure Luke, and i only run 24" wheels
the monster was my option for direct drive, however it looks like i may be able to get reduction of 2-1 leaving me only needing a 92 or so
still im up for having one if they go on sale, nice work dude - any chance of a few pics ? next to a 26" wheel for comparison would be cool.D
Thud
1 MW
D,
I understand what your looking for now. (I have that on my lil bmx now that it is re geared a bit slower) & independant drive is the only way to go if pedaling is desired (oposed to a last resort only senario)
Hmnn. sounds like the "Ultimate" set up for you would be twin freewheeling crank assist.
Get enough power in a "cyclone like" set up to suit you, that also matches your cadence(cyclone referance only to address chain length issues in the rear suspension)
I see a new thread coming.......
I understand what your looking for now. (I have that on my lil bmx now that it is re geared a bit slower) & independant drive is the only way to go if pedaling is desired (oposed to a last resort only senario)
Hmnn. sounds like the "Ultimate" set up for you would be twin freewheeling crank assist.
Get enough power in a "cyclone like" set up to suit you, that also matches your cadence(cyclone referance only to address chain length issues in the rear suspension)
I see a new thread coming.......
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