D's RC Drive Kona DC1

Hi D,

The tentative (pictured location) the shaft on the other end of the large pulley will be a #219 sprocket to drive the rear hub on the right?

If so it looks like a lot (too much?) chain growth.

Also if a larger pulley will fit you might gain some additional reduction that way if necessary.
 
the chain can be tensioned though hopefully, regardless of setup i will need a bonified 219 tensioner, but all i wonder is the location of the mount and the tension required on the belt.
Exactly as you say, 219 sprocket on the other end direct drive to the right side.
larger pulley could be accomadated as it doesn't interfere with anything, im expecting to have to change the gearing to the earlier suggested ratios once i go to a 3220.

D
 
I don't see any problem with that centre distance for the pulleys. I wouldn't make it any greater than that, though.

The problem of suspension compression from the motor drive is another matter....
 
Hi Miles,
Miles said:
I don't see any problem with that centre distance for the pulleys. I wouldn't make it any greater than that, though.

The problem of suspension compression from the motor drive is another matter....

By "suspension compression from the motor drive" do you mean between the large pulley/219 sprocket and the rear wheel, (because that looks like a problem to me)?
 
would a tensioner would solve this issue? im going to have a chain growth issue regardless of where i mount no?, i did consider putting the driveshaft direct to the arm but of course i cant tension the belt or it will skip :(
im very pleased that i can split the drive tho, that helps a lot meaning i can stick with the kona for this season.
i'll mock up what i want to do in some pics then show for criticism.


D
 
Well Deec personally i would stick with the 3220 idea and direct drive to rear wheel,
bere in mind though my judgement maybe clouded, your new idea uses that sweet sweet drive i have dibs on LMAO..

best of luck mate, looks like a good idea too me...still think 20in rim with 3in tire mounted on back with 24 on front and
whole drive on seat post direct too back wheel would be the shot, but thats me...

KiM
 
aye i dont disagree kim with that being the ideal solution but i cant do a 20 in the rear :lol:
it just doesnt look right and comes with the headache of reducing crank length etc.
that said i do like the look of JRH's bullit, maybe because it has such knarly fat tyres :)
the current plan is change of gearing to suit a 3220 and location as mentioned, just need to overcome the chain growth issue :( but that will go for all full sussers, unless you plan you mount to mount your motor on the swingarm - read "paintshaker" :)
tbh Kim with the beautiful stuff your making at the minute on the cruiser im surprised you dont knock up whatever you need?

right, now i've hassled Thud during grandchild birth LOL step forward MR G GOODRUM please, and give us status on the delta/wye board and also a 3220 six wire :lol: :lol: :lol:

D
 
beautiful.
thanks TD :mrgreen:
by jove it may just work!!!!!
of course the pulley could come lower still as it will clear the swingarm, hopefully :)
btw your sig always freaks me out when im wearing my fox hat.

D
 
sorry Miles i dont understand? (what's new)
i thought that if i can get the drive shaft mounted there all i would have to worry about is the compression making the 219 slightly slacker whether that be from pedal bobbing or propper suspension compression?

D
 
deecanio said:
tbh Kim with the beautiful stuff your making at the minute on the cruiser im surprised you dont knock up whatever you need?

All in time Deec i have started construction on a cnc mill mate, i have it 3/4 complete :) It was
set it aside due to space constraints to build this new bike when the trouble with the brushed motors
on the trike hit my breaking point LoL... I sill would have bought Matts drive even if i had the capability to make one
wanted one from the moment i saw them and you know what its like when you get the "must have" bug in your head
unfortunately now i have one I WANT MOOOORE lol...

Best of luck mate..

KiM

p.s the 20s with 3in tires looks BADASS Deec :p
 
Hi Kim,

yeh i do know that must have bug for sure ;)
btw the cruiser is looking awesome, im really looking forward to seeing that come to it's conclusion, you must be pretty stoked to have a two wheel ride again?

Miles,

are you saying that regardless of tensioners the idea wont work? if so im kind of screwed as whatever method i try i will have the chain growth problem no? :cry:
i did consider having the driveshaft direct onto the swingarm but then i will have the same problem with the reduction belt growing which i think is a non starter?
any ideas?

D
 
deecanio said:
you must be pretty stoked to have a two wheel ride again?

Absolutely! ill have a bigger EV grin than anyone on this site when i ride it for the first me thinkz, havent ridden a bicycle since i was ~17 only motorcycles and only in first gear as i can't change gear my feet dont move LoL ...

KiM
 
deecanio said:
Miles,

are you saying that regardless of tensioners the idea wont work? if so im kind of screwed as whatever method i try i will have the chain growth problem no? :cry:
i did consider having the driveshaft direct onto the swingarm but then i will have the same problem with the reduction belt growing which i think is a non starter?
any ideas?

D,

It depends what you mean by work. It's difficult to see how you could get a mounting position which wouldn't compromise the suspension to some degree. Maintaining chain tension is a separate issue.
 
In all seriousness Deec i honestly think for what you want the Astro 3220 direct drive setup you initially came up with would be a better way for you too go mate, the motor would be on the swing arm wouldnt it? no chain growth problems then and you will get the manual pedal setup you want AND prolly even save weight not using the reduction drive... you just going to have to get down on your knees and start begging someone for one of them notched Enos for the hub LoL..

KiM
 
Hi

I'm new to this forum, and have just spent the last couple of days, reading about the DC1, and a couple of other really nice projects.. A LOT of interesting reading..
I would just like to comment on the new placement of the driveshaft on da stinky..
Ideally, the driveshaft should run trough the suspension linkage just above the bottombracket. Then there would be no chain growth.
The closer the driveshaft is to the pivotpoint of the swingarm, the less chaingrowth.
Compared to other rear suspension designs, this bike has a relative constant wheelbase as the shock is compressed.
There will be chain growth, but depending on how close you can fit the driveshaft to the pivot point, i think a chain tensioner will do the trick..
you can of course measure the difference in distance from the wheel center to the driveshaft, as you compress the suspension.
I think the only way well really know, is the way you have done it so far.. Trying and learning.

Tord
 
lol,

i'd love to do that Kim but my understanding is i will still need reduction regardless of which rc motor is used?
if it was as easy as popping on a 3220 on the swingarm i'd go for it and replace the motor once it had had the crap bashed out of it :lol: tbh i dont think it would survive there.

let me find another pic....... ok here, look again................

here is the 24" wheel at maximum compression with no spring fitted, even if i managed to bottom the bike out (never been near yet) im totally failing to see how my suspension would be comprimised at all?
if just the pulley/shaft/output sprocket was mounted to the seatube say at a height just above where the spring struts are this would only take up about 60mm max, i definately have that spare at that point at full compression?
the pulley itself sits on the outside of the swingarm allowing the arm to come up to wherever the shaft permits, again thats a bloody long way, surely this would be ok?
my only concern is chain growth with this idea, i'll move the parts at the weekend and see for myself where my idea fails, for now i just cannot see it?

**edit** welcome tord, yes that would be awesome if possible, i'll take a look :twisted:

Kim, im on my knees outsides thuds house as i type :wink:


D
 

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im soo sorry Miles, but i still dont get it :oops:
i know you'll be right, and then when i realise why i wont post for a few weeks in shame :lol: ...............
but being as the drive is fixed in two positions whose relationship never changes i just cant understand what you mean?


D
 
I think he means when he gives it fist full the motors going to pull the swing arm up Deec
I could be wrong i often am, Miles speak is in another universe im afraid he usually loses me after the first or second word in his post
my brain sweels comprising on my skull as i struggle to grasp his responses hehehe..

KiM
 
oh hold on.......
do you mean that when im under load the chain will pull the susension upward? maybe?
oh man i need some sleep :(
ye i agree Kim, Miles is just too damn clever by half :) thats why i know he is right :lol:

D
 
Wouldnt a spring loaded tensioner on th slack side of the chain rectify this though Miles...if in fact this is what your suggesting?

Deec with the motor idea to the rear wheel you would need a MASSIVE rear sprocket is all you have the $$$ go get a machine shop to whip you up a king size 27 thousand tooth sprocket HELL it will double as "studded tire" in the snow/ice in your white winters in the motherland hehehe :p

KiM

EDIT: rectify the slack chain issue not the compression of the suspension...
 
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