E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

[Cowardlyduck]

Hey CD,

Did you get the belt tensioner in a good position? I have a sound that I definitely did not have before.
I looks aligned and runs like usual but I believe it's still rubbing some where even though I cannot see it. I asked Adam for some more detailed instructions but I haven't got a reply yet.

Kind of...it took over 20 attempts though! :|
In the end I reversed the bolt for the tensioner wheel so I could more quickly make adjustments without having to totally disassemble the wheel and take the load off the spring which made fine tuning it waaaay easier. Wish I had done that a lot earlier.
First few photo's are when I was still struggling to get it lined up, then once I finally got it lined up well.







Took it for a spin on the weekend and initially the belt kept slipping down the side of the pulley, but after a while that stopped happening...not sure why. My next problem now though is that the belt keeps slipping under rear wheel compression. This is worst when riding up lots of whoops sitting down which causes the most rear suspension compression and every time the belt slips one or two teeth. Not good!
I can't understand why though...running the 15T sprocket should make the belt more tight, and the new pulley tensioner is larger which should make it tighter again still. This compared to the rubber belt which was not slipping on the 14T with the old tensioner pulley.

Could it be the carbon belt? Has anyone else with the 15T pulley or carbon belt had any belt slip?
Anyway, the ride was still very nice and great to get back out on the bike again after a while.





Cheers

 

[Rix]

Nice CD, thanks of posting those scenic pics. As far as your belt slippage issue, looking at this pic, looks like a camber alignment issue, maybe the slippage is coming from a lack of belt teeth to pulley teeth contact and not tension related????

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Nice CD, thanks of posting those scenic pics. As far as your belt slippage issue, looking at this pic, looks like a camber alignment issue, maybe the slippage is coming from a lack of belt teeth to pulley teeth contact and not tension related????

Thanks Rix. That shot was before I sorted out the alignment. Its much better now, so I don't think that's the cause.
I might try swapping back in the old tensioner wheel temporarily to see if that helps.
Cheers

 

[briangv99]

I can't understand why though...running the 15T sprocket should make the belt more tight, and the new pulley tensioner is larger which should make it tighter again still.

Nice to hear your LMX is back up and running and getting some miles under it's belt (pun intended :wink

Did you compare the new belt with the old? are they the exact same length?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Nice to hear your LMX is back up and running and getting some miles under it's belt (pun intended :wink

Did you compare the new belt with the old? are they the exact same length?

Thanks Brian.
I did not compare the length...but that might be the reason for the skipping. I think Adam did mention something about the rear sprocket size being different and that might effect things. i.e. my rear sprocket has less teeth than the final production belt kit version...maybe that's leading to less tension on the belt and therefore skipping because it's a longer belt?
All speculation though...I will have to measure them when I get a chance.

Cheers

 

[croydon]

Hey CD,

Did you get the belt tensioner in a good position? I have a sound that I definitely did not have before.
I looks aligned and runs like usual but I believe it's still rubbing some where even though I cannot see it. I asked Adam for some more detailed instructions but I haven't got a reply yet.

Kind of...it took over 20 attempts though! :|
In the end I reversed the bolt for the tensioner wheel so I could more quickly make adjustments without having to totally disassemble the wheel and take the load off the spring which made fine tuning it waaaay easier. Wish I had done that a lot earlier.
First few photo's are when I was still struggling to get it lined up, then once I finally got it lined up well.
DSC_6698.JPG
DSC_6701.JPG
DSC_6703.JPG
DSC_6704.JPG
DSC_6705.JPG
DSC_6708.JPG

Took it for a spin on the weekend and initially the belt kept slipping down the side of the pulley, but after a while that stopped happening...not sure why. My next problem now though is that the belt keeps slipping under rear wheel compression. This is worst when riding up lots of whoops sitting down which causes the most rear suspension compression and every time the belt slips one or two teeth. Not good!
I can't understand why though...running the 15T sprocket should make the belt more tight, and the new pulley tensioner is larger which should make it tighter again still. This compared to the rubber belt which was not slipping on the 14T with the old tensioner pulley.

Could it be the carbon belt? Has anyone else with the 15T pulley or carbon belt had any belt slip?
Anyway, the ride was still very nice and great to get back out on the bike again after a while.

DSC_6710.JPGDSC_6712.JPG
DSC_6714.JPG
DSC_6715.JPG

Cheers

hello, you need new rear sprocket , i think you have 115t, the new one have 118t , i running with the 15t sprocket @the front and the new sprocket @ the rear with other type carbon belt , i have no slipping problems always strong accleration it never skip, thats your problem, the belt is to Loose with the 115t sprocket.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

hello, you need new rear sprocket , i think you have 115t, the new one have 118t , i running with the 15t sprocket @the front and the new sprocket @ the rear with other type carbon belt , i have no slipping problems always strong accleration it never skip, thats your problem, the belt is to Loose with the 115t sprocket.

Thanks! Yes I had forgotten this, but I think that's it.
I wonder if there is a way for me to add more tension to the belt so I don't have to get the other rear sprocket...shipping is a killer from France to Australia.

Cheers

 

[scrambler]

Stronger spring.
Or farther attachment point to stretch the existing spring more.

If LMX can give you the spec of the one they used, you can check on sites like below if you can get a stronger one that works within the range of the existing one
https://www.thespringstore.com/catalogsearch/advanced/?search=stock-extension-springs

You can search by min max length, rate, max load etc...

 

[TorEddy]

I received a nice upgrade package from LMX today.. :thumb: I'm really excited to get this installed and finally try the new controller and belt drive.. Full twist throttle and shorter crank arms will take some getting used to, and the extra wheel is for winter riding with studded tires.
Included was a nice looking user manual, but no installation guide for the controller or belt drive. Guess i'll figure it out.
I had to include a pic of the cable bushings as these looks much nicer than the 3d printed ones

 

[Allex]

But why do you guys use a non MGT profile with a MGT belt?
Belt does not have the round tooth profile but you have round teeth on the pulley.

 

[Rix]

But why do you guys use a non MGT profile with a MGT belt?
Belt does not have the round tooth profile but you have round teeth on the pulley.

You are right Alex, I didn't realize it at first, the top of the pully teeth are squared off. The belt is rounded there. Good catch.

 

[Rix]

But why do you guys use a non MGT profile with a MGT belt?
Belt does not have the round tooth profile but you have round teeth on the pulley.

You are right Alex, I didn't realize it at first, the top of the pully teeth are squared off. The belt is rounded there. Good catch.

But the pitch is correct.

 

[SlowCo]

But why do you guys use a non MGT profile with a MGT belt?
Belt does not have the round tooth profile but you have round teeth on the pulley.

You are right Alex, I didn't realize it at first, the top of the pulley teeth are squared off. The belt is rounded there. Good catch.

No I don't think that is what he meant.
The profile/shape/curve of the teeth on the belt is different than the profile/shape/curve in the pulley wheel. the pulley wheel seems to be a HTD shape and the belt a GT shape?:

IN the pulley wheel seems to be standard "Curvilinear" shape:





ON the belt seems to be "Modified Curvilinear":





From Gates:





They should not be mixed because it will decrease belt life significantly which seems to be the problem for many of the LMX belt users...

 

[briangv99]

But why do you guys use a non MGT profile with a MGT belt?
Belt does not have the round tooth profile but you have round teeth on the pulley.

My guess is ease of manufacture. The large pulley appears to be made with a CNC router, the tooth profile being round because of the router bit. A polychain profile would require a broaching process wouldn't it?

 

[SlowCo]

My guess is ease of manufacture. The large pulley appears to be made with a CNC router, the tooth profile being round because of the router bit. A polychain profile would require a broaching process wouldn't it?

As the big pulley wheel is made out of plastics it should be possible to use a very small diameter router for the last (few) passes along the profile to get the correct GT shape milled in the wheel. The front sprocket also seems to be regular "Curvilinear" shaped and will have the biggest negative effect on belt life when using the "Modified Curvilinear" belts. And cause the belt skipping as both profiles don't exactly match.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Stupid ES notifications not going through again...I thought this thread had gone quite...

I'm thinking I should just switch back to my old belt for now and eventually get the bigger rear sprocket to sort out my sizing issue...maybe since I also need to replace my rear rim eventually I might just get a second rear wheel instead.
The other issue I still have is my motor tuning...it still keeps occasionally stuttering under acceleration. I've tried re-tuning it a bunch of times at different state of charge (voltage) levels, but doesn't seem to make much difference.

I suspect I might have a bad hall sensor or hall sensor wire/connection somewhere. I've changed hall sensors on hub motors a bunch of times...is it that much different on these in-runners?

Cheers

 

[Rix]

But why do you guys use a non MGT profile with a MGT belt?
Belt does not have the round tooth profile but you have round teeth on the pulley.

You are right Alex, I didn't realize it at first, the top of the pulley teeth are squared off. The belt is rounded there. Good catch.

No I don't think that is what he meant.
The profile/shape/curve of the teeth on the belt is different than the profile/shape/curve in the pulley wheel. the pulley wheel seems to be a HTD shape and the belt a GT shape?:

IN the pulley wheel seems to be standard "Curvilinear" shape:


HTD_Timing_Belt_Tooth_Profile.jpg


ON the belt seems to be "Modified Curvilinear":


PolyChain_GT_Timing_Belt_Tooth_Profile.jpg


From Gates:


Curvilinear vs Modified Curvilinear.jpg


They should not be mixed because it will decrease belt life significantly which seems to be the problem for many of the LMX belt users...

Thats what I think Alex meant, and your explanation response with attachments are way more eloquent than I could every do.

 

[Mihei777]

But why do you guys use a non MGT profile with a MGT belt?
Belt does not have the round tooth profile but you have round teeth on the pulley.

You are right Alex, I didn't realize it at first, the top of the pulley teeth are squared off. The belt is rounded there. Good catch.

No I don't think that is what he meant.
The profile/shape/curve of the teeth on the belt is different than the profile/shape/curve in the pulley wheel. the pulley wheel seems to be a HTD shape and the belt a GT shape?:

IN the pulley wheel seems to be standard "Curvilinear" shape:


HTD_Timing_Belt_Tooth_Profile.jpg


ON the belt seems to be "Modified Curvilinear":


PolyChain_GT_Timing_Belt_Tooth_Profile.jpg


From Gates:


Curvilinear vs Modified Curvilinear.jpg


They should not be mixed because it will decrease belt life significantly which seems to be the problem for many of the LMX belt users...

Hi. Polychain is still the best belt for this even profile not correct. I have been testing optibelt regular (35km), opti hp (160km), polychain 750 km before break down. I ve been riding full throttle max power offroad hard conditions. Normal user can ride with polychain easily 2-3tkm

 

[SlowCo]

Hi. Polychain is still the best belt for this even profile not correct. I have been testing optibelt regular (35km), opti hp (160km), polychain 750 km before break down. I ve been riding full throttle max power offroad hard conditions. Normal user can ride with polychain easily 2-3tkm

That's why the profile in the front and rear pulleys should be matched to the GT belt profile to increase the belt life even further. But that is for LMX to decide and manufacture :wink:

 

[Xtr6]

Got a problem with the LMX64, Did a Update for the newest Firmware from Nucular but the bike has no pas etc. Is there any one who could sent me his file. Then I hope I can get It back alive.

Many Thanks in Advance

 

[Xtr6]

Solved the problem. New Firmware Update Nucular is awesome. More power and you can make youre own throttle curve. Just love this bike.

 

[Joe]

Xtr6, what did you do to make it work. The procedure is a little open for errors.Any help to close those, would be nice. I still haven’t up-graded the firmware as I had a problem and reverted to the older version as it worked straight away. Would be interesting to see your method. I‘m still using the first belt design. I agree with Mihei777, the normal optibelt and the hp belt didn‘t last so long, but I‘m on the HL belt and also riding fully open. Now at 500km. (And so quiet) I found that squeezing the spring between the washers made a better alignment. CD, I changed the Torque setting from standard 30 to 50. Made the human torque max 300. wow Gonna have a look to this direction. The pull from low speed to high is better.
PS, took it apart cleaned and degreased, re-greased and then re-assembled. I didn‘t take a photo before and also has 5 attempts to get it right. You can hear when the belt is not aligned perfectly. Seriously the HL belt doesn‘t make any noise.

 

[TorEddy]

@bzhwindtalker Is it possible to change the Bafang 750c display to another smaller one with the Silixcon controller?
Egg rider clone?

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=99698

Or another bafang display:

Would be nice to have display options if they would work with Silixcon without to much programming/configuring..

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I gave up on my carbon belt for now and switched everything back to the old one.
I will have to wait till I get the larger rear sprocket or swap these parts with someone else.

CD, I changed the Torque setting from standard 30 to 50. Made the human torque max 300. wow Gonna have a look to this direction. The pull from low speed to high is better.
PS, took it apart cleaned and degreased, re-greased and then re-assembled. I didn‘t take a photo before and also has 5 attempts to get it right. You can hear when the belt is not aligned perfectly. Seriously the HL belt doesn‘t make any noise.

I can't recall the setting you mean, but glad it's more torqie for you now.
I think I should get a HL belt. Where did you get yours?

Cheers

 

[briangv99]

I think I should get a HL belt. Where did you get yours?

You could contact these guys to see if the slit belts to size

https://bepltd.com/products/1728-8m...ance-htd-timing-belt-1728mm-long-8m-30mm-wide

should be able to get two 12.5-13mm belts from one 30mm or six from an 85mm belt?

https://bepltd.com/products/1728-8m...ance-htd-timing-belt-1728mm-long-8m-85mm-wide