E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Bit of an update on the new rear suspension setup. After a 100 odd km on it I can confidently report that it has been a big improvement over stock.

Did few other mods to the bike to better suit my height. The Fighter frame really is a bit small for someone my size and the extended seat height that I need for the correct leg extension makes for a bent over riding postion. This wasn't too bad but I thought I would experiment with an adjustable head stem and some riser bars to improve my riding postion. Also fitted a more comfortable "old man" gell seat to bike.

Definitely has made the bike a more comfortable commuter but does spoil the agressive lines of the bike a bit. At this stage I think I will stick with the raised handle bar postion and live with less then ideal aesthetics.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1683.jpg
    IMG_1683.jpg
    74.1 KB · Views: 2,812
Thanks Rod.

I had to go back and check out some pictures of your setup again to see how you had the bars setup. Noticed you kept the steerer tube at full length and spaced up the head stem. Makes for a nice high bar position.
 
Went for a ride yesterday, froze my a$$ off. It was 21f or -6c for the non Americano scale. When I got back to the house, my fingers were so cold, I couldn't feel the clasp on my lid. Took this pic, there was a snow storm behind me that hit later.

Hyena, I'm really loving the rear tire. Its proving to be super tough and more than sano enough for the crap I am riding.

Kepler, with the tall handle bar setting, have you notice any differences with cornering? Changing rider position can sometimes wreak havoc on corner handeling. Or did the increase in shock length offset that? I am thanking about getting a different calmp and running a taller bar myself.

Rick
 
Rix said:
Went for a ride yesterday, froze my a$$ off. It was 21f or -6c for the non Americano scale. When I got back to the house, my fingers were so cold, I couldn't feel the clasp on my lid. Took this pic, there was a snow storm behind me that hit later.

Hyena, I'm really loving the rear tire. Its proving to be super tough and more than sano enough for the crap I am riding.

Kepler, with the tall handle bar setting, have you notice any differences with cornering? Changing rider position can sometimes wreak havoc on corner handeling. Or did the increase in shock length offset that? I am thanking about getting a different calmp and running a taller bar myself.

Rick

Put a pair of Nitrile Medical Exam Gloves under your winter gloves and your hands stay warm.

Also good when working on the bike...I carry several pairs and give them out to the cold handed peeps on group rides.
 
cruzxia said:
Charging and usage tips for LifeP04 batteries (Production stealth batteries)
For all of you who have just got or are about to get your new stealth bike, here is a bit of info on how to look after your batteries.

1.Avoid charging directly after use, If possible wait a few hours or until the next day. This will allow the battery to cool and the chemistry to stabilise.

2. When charging, allow the cells to balance. Unless you are in a hurry, do not unplug the charger as soon as the green charged LED illuminates. The battery cells will continue to charge and balance the cells when the green LED is on. (allow several hours or overnight for cell balancing)

3.For the first 3 usage cycles of a new battery, do not excessively load the battery. It is a good idea to limit the current in the CA to about 50% to avoid accidental high loads during this period. The battery will improve with around 20 cycles of use.

4.Discharging to 80% of capacity will prolong battery life. (E.g. Bomber18ah battery/stop use at around 14.5ah)
Occasional discharge until the BMS shuts down is ok, It also shows your range in usable battery capacity.

5. Usage tip – If you are riding off road on a bumpy twisty tight section, limit the current in the CA to around 70% (Bomber I set 40A). You will use less battery energy, the motor will remain much cooler, and you can ride longer. What I found is that it is difficult to control the throttle smoothly in that situation, so the current serges over the bumps. If I ride a 3km loop, with no current limit the motor gets quite hot. If I limit the current, I can ride 3 – 4 loops to get the motor to the same temperature. I don’t make it around the loop any faster with full current.

Some technical info.

BMS – Battery Management System (fitted in your battery pack)

What it does.

Prevents any one cell voltage from falling to low. WHY - If the cell voltage becomes too low the cell can become permanently damaged and will no longer accept a charge.
HOW – When any cell in the pack reaches the low voltage point, it will shut down the whole pack – Your bike will cut out.

Prevents over charging of individual cells. WHY – the cells have an upper voltage level that they must not exceed. The BMS will protect the cells from exceeding this level when charging.

Balancing – The BMS will prevent an individual cell from over charging by limiting the voltage. When the voltage is reached by a cell, the charging current is passed on to any other cells in the pack that are below the upper voltage level. Balancing occurs only towards the end of charging the pack. The charging current at this point is relatively low, so that is why it takes time (several hours) to balance the cells

Charger

The supplied charger is a two stage charger. Firstly it charges a fixed current until the pack reaches a prescribed voltage (dependant on the battery voltage) Then stage 2 it charges to a target voltage at a reduced nominal current level.
So in the bomber’s case it charges at 6A in stage 1 then when it reaches around 84 volts it switches to stage 2 the current drops to around 0.2A getting progressively less until the pack reaches 87.6v
The slow charge at the end allows the pack to balance. If 1 cell is low it will take some time to charge (the 18Ah) at 0.1 – 0.2A in order for it to catch up to the other cells.

Cruzxia
I'm new to ebikes...have a stealth fighter on order..excellent info on charging & battery care..would leaving bike in usa power mode for first few charges still be to much power for proper battery breakin? Where is the best source for the proper ca settings
for fighter? I'm concerned that having wrong settings could cause problems with battery & bike performance. I also would like
to put handlebar mounted ca on bike(my eyesight isn't very good these days) How difficult is this considering I'm an ebike virgin
 
ccage,

Here's some information to get you started on buying and installing a large screen CA. I'll see if I can get some pics and the current settings for my Fighter CA in the next few days.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=large+screen+ca&t=23996&sf=msgonly

Install is easy. Remove the battery, trace the existing CA wire to a connection under the battery foam, disconnect, mount the new CA on the handlebars, run the new CA wire into the bike, its an exact plug in to where you unplug the in-frame CA, and that's it. Coil the old CA wire and leave it inside the bike and leave the old CA in place since it fills the frame holes so nicely.

Large CA is great, you will actually use it as your primary instrumentation for speed, WH, etc. now that you can easily see it.

-Jim
 
Put a pair of Nitrile Medical Exam Gloves under your winter gloves and your hands stay warm.

Also good when working on the bike...I carry several pairs and give them out to the cold handed peeps on group rides

Hello Paul, thanks for the tip, my ex wife is a single speed nut from Brooklyn, you would think she would have known about this tip. Just got a bunch of larges, will be testing them out this week.

Rick
 
Yep, I've been doing the same with nitrile gloves for the last few years. I use them at work anyway so have good access to them. I didn't realise it was a done thing. I could tell an annecdote about how I found out I was allergic to latex which necessitated wearing nitrile, but that's a story for another day :p

Damn Rix, that's chilly! I was in Germany a few years back and it was -5 but didn't feel THAT cold as it was still. I remember thinking "geez I wish I had my ebike now, this would be great to cruise around" but I'm sure the wind chill would quickly ice you over.

And yeah swapping over the the large screen CA is easily done. The hardest part is getting the plug to fit through the hole in the frame. I actually cut mine and resoldered it as I didn't want to pull the other cables back out.
 
Hyena said:
Damn Rix, that's chilly! I was in Germany a few years back and it was -5 but didn't feel THAT cold as it was still. I remember thinking "geez I wish I had my ebike now, this would be great to cruise around" but I'm sure the wind chill would quickly ice you over.

I used to ride around in Berlin winters in -20C on my regular MTB. As long as you pedal hard enough the heat your body makes is normally enough. I just wore Ski gloves, and a jacket that could be undone easily. I actually found it more annoying when I overheated and couldn't remove or undo clothing to keep cool.

I guess it's a bit different on an E-bike doing 40kmh+ though. One good way to keep warm enough would be to pedal only until your all sweaty and hot, then you'll appreciate cruising in the cold a lot more. ;)

Cheers
 
Stealth_Rider said:
ccage,

Here's some information to get you started on buying and installing a large screen CA. I'll see if I can get some pics and the current settings for my Fighter CA in the next few days.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=large+screen+ca&t=23996&sf=msgonly

Install is easy. Remove the battery, trace the existing CA wire to a connection under the battery foam, disconnect, mount the new CA on the handlebars, run the new CA wire into the bike, its an exact plug in to where you unplug the in-frame CA, and that's it. Coil the old CA wire and leave it inside the bike and leave the old CA in place since it fills the frame holes so nicely.

Large CA is great, you will actually use it as your primary instrumentation for speed, WH, etc. now that you can easily see it.

-Jim

thanks jim

You guys are awesome on this forum... It seems any question you have some one on this forum can answere.
I"m trying to learn what I can from you guys so when my bike arrives i wont be totally lost.
thanks again cage
 
CG that is so true, the folks on this forum are awesome at sharing knowledge. Everyday I am on this Forum, I learn something new.

Rick
 
ccage,

As promised here is what the large CA looks like on my bike. CA settings are in this URL: http://www.fareinc.com/Fighter-Kirk-077/Fighter_Large_CA_settings/

Lg_CA-4.jpg

Lg_CA-3.jpg


Larger pics showing my Fighter with the large screen CA are in the same URL as the settings.

-Jim
 
Stealth_Rider said:
ccage,

As promised here is what the large CA looks like on my bike. CA settings are in this URL: http://www.fareinc.com/Fighter-Kirk-077/Fighter_Large_CA_settings/

Lg_CA-4.jpg

Lg_CA-3.jpg


Larger pics showing my Fighter with the large screen CA are in the same URL as the settings.

-Jim

Thanks jim

I really appreciate you going to the trouble of giving me this info..I couldn't ask for more..I already have the ca I just need
the bike.I'm assuming using this ca will enable max power without having to do anything else right? how do you feel about
running 50% power during battery break-in & only using 80% of battery to maximize battery life? This seems to the prescribed
procedure by forum members.I have also read whrs & amphrs are your gas gauge,which is it or is there not a right answere.
(stock fighter---48v 18amp 0r 1000whrs is this correct? Im riding looking at my ca... when should i head for home keeping in
mind using 80% bat capacity & bms not shutting bike down....# whrs used would probably be what? or amphrs would probably
be what? Which do you use whrs or amphrs? Sorry for all the questions but I don't what to be pedaling for miles without power)

cage
 
ccage said:
Which do you use whrs or amphrs?
Use Watt Hours. If your on a Fighter think about heading home around 450-500whrs.
On a Bomber start heading home around 700whrs.

I tend to go harder than I should on my Fighter and have often only checked once I've already reached about 650+whrs before heading home. It's still easy enough to make it home...just gotta tone it down a bit. :D
That's also where my derailleur really comes in handy.

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
ccage said:
Which do you use whrs or amphrs?
Use Watt Hours. If your on a Fighter think about heading home around 450-500whrs.
On a Bomber start heading home around 700whrs.

I tend to go harder than I should on my Fighter and have often only checked once I've already reached about 650+whrs before heading home. It's still easy enough to make it home...just gotta tone it down a bit. :D
That's also where my derailleur really comes in handy.

Cheers

Thanks duck

What is the usable watt hrs of a stock fighter(700 or 800 ?)
 
ccage said:
What is the usable watt hrs of a stock fighter(700 or 800 ?)
Depends on your battery. Each battery is unique. Also depends on the rate of drain, temperature, age of the battery, etc. etc.
Mines seen just over 1000whrs a couple of times, but you won't typically want to do that very often if you want to get decent cycle life span out of the battery.

Generally Fighters should manage 900+whrs without issue.

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
ccage said:
What is the usable watt hrs of a stock fighter(700 or 800 ?)
Depends on your battery. Each battery is unique. Also depends on the rate of drain, temperature, age of the battery, etc. etc.
Mines seen just over 1000whrs a couple of times, but you won't typically want to do that very often if you want to get decent cycle life span out of the battery.

Generally Fighters should manage 900+whrs without issue.

Cheers

Thanks mate

I want to say thanks to all members on this forum for their help & knowledge..I'm sure I'll come up with more stealth
Questions
 
I only have a relatively short experience with my Stealth(1500kms), and I have not had one issue with this battery. I reckon the battery is one of the best things compared to my lipo powered bike. It is so 'plug and play'. Very simple compared to the regime I use for charging, handling and storing my lipos. I have not heard of one catching fire before.
 
Cross posted from my build thread, a quick midnight ride on my fighter now I have some permanent lights hooked up. One is a 12w 4 led headlight on a custom made plate sitting under the direct mount stem that sits the light down central over the head tube, the second light is a T6 magicshine. The mount is loose though as it was sitting on the narrow brace part of my MX style bars so flopped around over bumps. This will be fixed for subsequent night rides. The headlight operates off a 2 position motorbike key switch (replacing the standard switch) The first click turns on the bike, the second click turns on the headlights too. Permanent frame mounted tail lights are still to come but not as much an issue as there's rarely if ever anyone behind me of a night and I dont ride it on the road.


[youtube]23Z_oYtc7dY[/youtube][/quote]
 
Hyena, great vid, makes me want to go out and get a light to ride in the dark. Is there a safe minimum operational temperature for my Bomber's battery? I went for a real cold one the other morning. 8F or -13C. As expected, the bomber performance lacked significantly compared to 70-100F riding. I store the bomber indoors so the battery wasn't at ambient temperature at the beginning of the ride and I didn't go WOT until I was on my way back home. Thank goodness for my beaker and full face helmet. The nitrile gloves also made a huge difference under my 661 winter riding gloves.

Rick
 
DunkenKBliths said:
HAS ANYONE HAD ANY ISSUES WITH THE BATTERIES ON THESE BIKES

like small fire or does everything get shut down before that happens... ?

had to ask...!!!

Only a few more weeks before my bike arrives !!!!

Why would you spend that kid of money on a commercial product and have any doubts?

They are well designed and engineered plug and play devices that you can treat just like charging your phone or laptop.

Just try not to get it wet, No idea if they are IP rated
 
Back
Top