E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Rix said:
Nevermind, go to your local MC shop and ask them for this size MC Inner Tube "80/90-21" with the longest valve stem they carry. This tube will fit our 24MTB Razorbacks perfectly. The only bitch is the valve stem is a little on the short side for the Bomber's deep well rims. So when the valve stem is fished through the rim hole, make sure the nut that comes with these tubes is removed. Then use that nut and thread back on the stem. This will hold the valve stem in place so you can air up the tire. I run a super heavy duty Maxxis 80/90-21 MC Tube on the front of my Bomber, its at least twice as thick as the heaviest 24" DH MTB Tube made by Duro No problems or flats.

Rick

Baby powder between the tube and tire with slime in the tube or just good old fashioned rubber on rubber with no liquid in the inner?
 
morati said:
Yes definately a fork......maybe a set of Hope V4 brakes with V2 vented rotors. Thats about it to upgrade. Wheels might be needed if you are a heavier rider and you are offroading on rocky terrain, otherwise the stock wheels are fine. Stock up on tires of your choice, brake pads and an extra set of crank arms. One of the most important things is to read every page of this topic here on Endless-sphere. So much info to take in so a few pages at a time until you've covered everything. Welcome to the Club!

Are the Hope V4 brakes that much better than Magura MT2 or MT4's ?
I currently have the MT4's and besides the annoying squeak, they stopping power is pretty good.
I can easily lock up the rear with one finger (standing on pedals) .
My only other complaint will be the hollow torx screws that secure them to the handlebars are counter threaded from the inside making them hard to tighten to specified 4Nm - they strip easily.
 
nevermnd said:
morati said:
Yes definately a fork......maybe a set of Hope V4 brakes with V2 vented rotors. Thats about it to upgrade. Wheels might be needed if you are a heavier rider and you are offroading on rocky terrain, otherwise the stock wheels are fine. Stock up on tires of your choice, brake pads and an extra set of crank arms. One of the most important things is to read every page of this topic here on Endless-sphere. So much info to take in so a few pages at a time until you've covered everything. Welcome to the Club!

Are the Hope V4 brakes that much better than Magura MT2 or MT4's ?
I currently have the MT4's and besides the annoying squeak, they stopping power is pretty good.
I can easily lock up the rear with one finger (standing on pedals) .
My only other complaint will be the hollow torx screws that secure them to the handlebars are counter threaded from the inside making them hard to tighten to specified 4Nm - they strip easily.
Don't know how much better they are over the MT4's cause I only have the stock MT2's on right now. They stop the Bomber fine but IMO the bike deserves better brakes, so I will be upgrading.
 
i dont know about mt4 cause i never have them i just say they are more powerfull and better vs mt2 i just love my hope v4 evo with vented disc i trust them a lot i feel safe is difficult for me to explain cause i really dont dominate the english i use them with sintered pads and they fit perfect and dont sound and the lever is awesome i really like them
 
I am sure the Evo's are one of the best but the MT-2's are solid & not far off the performance of the more expensive ones. According to this Bike Radar report, the best of all of them are Shimano SLX M666's.

"Shimano’s SLX M666 brake packs all the best bits of the latest Japanese anchor generation into a remarkably affordable, top performance package that offers the ultimate in powerful, controlled and utterly reliable braking.

Despite the low price you get the same Ice Technologies finned heat dissipating pad technology as with the top-end XTR brake. This stops the mineral oil internals overheating even when hammered relentlessly. We've had zero reliability issues with any of the new generation Shimano brakes and you can even run them on cooking oil in an emergency."

http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/best-disc-brakes-for-mountain-bikes-33540/
 
nevermnd said:
Rix said:
Nevermind, go to your local MC shop and ask them for this size MC Inner Tube "80/90-21" with the longest valve stem they carry. This tube will fit our 24MTB Razorbacks perfectly. The only bitch is the valve stem is a little on the short side for the Bomber's deep well rims. So when the valve stem is fished through the rim hole, make sure the nut that comes with these tubes is removed. Then use that nut and thread back on the stem. This will hold the valve stem in place so you can air up the tire. I run a super heavy duty Maxxis 80/90-21 MC Tube on the front of my Bomber, its at least twice as thick as the heaviest 24" DH MTB Tube made by Duro No problems or flats.

Rick

Baby powder between the tube and tire with slime in the tube or just good old fashioned rubber on rubber with no liquid in the inner?

Lots of baby powder, maybe some slime, definately a Mr. Tuffy tire liner. The the only thing that you will flat on will be the rear under pinch circumstances.

Rick
 
remf said:
I am sure the Evo's are one of the best but the MT-2's are solid & not far off the performance of the more expensive ones. According to this Bike Radar report, the best of all of them are Shimano SLX M666's.

"Shimano’s SLX M666 brake packs all the best bits of the latest Japanese anchor generation into a remarkably affordable, top performance package that offers the ultimate in powerful, controlled and utterly reliable braking.

Despite the low price you get the same Ice Technologies finned heat dissipating pad technology as with the top-end XTR brake. This stops the mineral oil internals overheating even when hammered relentlessly. We've had zero reliability issues with any of the new generation Shimano brakes and you can even run them on cooking oil in an emergency."

http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/best-disc-brakes-for-mountain-bikes-33540/
i am a noob on bike really the last time i own a bike before my bomber was like 15 year ago and now i turn 32 this month but this article base is for the best performance for the money and they tested with a super lightweight bikes is not same as a 120 pound bike at 55mph is like riding a torpedo loool the hit with something will be serious and i notice that they look for light brakes and best value i have a bad experience with my mt2 they noisy and almost all time i have to adjust to have 5 minutes of peace and they actually don't stop my bomber about right i don't mine to get a few grams more and pay a few hundreds more for a good and nice look massive break that stop my heavy $10,000 bike at 50mph also the bomber is a big machine and deserve and look nice with big brakes since i have the evo v4 i dont even look at them and adjust nothing i just ride and don't hear anything and i have encounter some cars at high speed and they stop and save my life like 3 times already
 
If you want ultimate power the formula brakes are by far the best

But they aren't cheap, in the article it mentioned that they are the most powerful ever tested

The MT2 on my bike are fantastic on the rear and good on the front

But what this side of a motorcycle brake is going to slow 190kg of bike and rider over and over from high speed, I think they do a real good job at trying
 
That one looks nice, I am sad now. Did order a white bomber with white front fork. They delivered the bike with a black one. I emailed Stealth about this and they responded with something like this: "terribly sorry, but there is nothing we can do now" so I am really dissapointed at them! They should at least give me some bonus for the trouble...
 
MAFIA said:
i dont know about mt4 cause i never have them i just say they are more powerfull and better vs mt2 i just love my hope v4 evo with vented disc i trust them a lot i feel safe is difficult for me to explain cause i really dont dominate the english i use them with sintered pads and they fit perfect and dont sound and the lever is awesome i really like them

the hope lever is the most perfect brake lever I am used ever
 
Allex said:
That one looks nice, I am sad now. Did order a white bomber with white front fork. They delivered the bike with a black one. I emailed Stealth about this and they responded with something like this: "terribly sorry, but there is nothing we can do now" so I am really dissapointed at them! They should at least give me some bonus for the trouble...
do you ask in stealth USA? or stealth AU? post a pic dude i want to see your bike and what num do you get
 
MAFIA said:
Allex said:
That one looks nice, I am sad now. Did order a white bomber with white front fork. They delivered the bike with a black one. I emailed Stealth about this and they responded with something like this: "terribly sorry, but there is nothing we can do now" so I am really dissapointed at them! They should at least give me some bonus for the trouble...
do you ask in stealth USA? or stealth AU? post a pic dude i want to see your bike and what num do you get

Stealth US
Mine is like Moratis but with black wheels number 301
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&start=4050#p753995
 
Allex said:
MAFIA said:
Allex said:
That one looks nice, I am sad now. Did order a white bomber with white front fork. They delivered the bike with a black one. I emailed Stealth about this and they responded with something like this: "terribly sorry, but there is nothing we can do now" so I am really dissapointed at them! They should at least give me some bonus for the trouble...
do you ask in stealth USA? or stealth AU? post a pic dude i want to see your bike and what num do you get

Stealth US
Mine is like Moratis but with black wheels number 301
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&start=4050#p753995
i suggest you get a try with Australia division jonh likes to makes costumer happy
 
dh-paule said:
MAFIA said:
i dont know about mt4 cause i never have them i just say they are more powerfull and better vs mt2 i just love my hope v4 evo with vented disc i trust them a lot i feel safe is difficult for me to explain cause i really dont dominate the english i use them with sintered pads and they fit perfect and dont sound and the lever is awesome i really like them

the hope lever is the most perfect brake lever I am used ever
i am with you the lever is awesome
 
Fighter #110 No Go :?: Please help

I was in the middle of the trail and stopped to clean up a branch. I left my bike on, but was less than a minute. When I went to peddle/throttle I had no throttle. No noise, no nothing'. It acts like the key is off. It pedals the same with the bike on or off. The controller's red led is on. My motor and controller were cool, and the CA was reading as normal. The only thing I see differently is the CA would read 3watts just sitting(idle) previously. No it read 0watts at idle
-I checked all wire connections.
-Performed a BMS reset.
-Tried with CA disconnected


What is the troubleshooting protocol? How do read(test) the throttle?

Thanks
 
wugambino said:
Fighter #110 No Go :?: Please help

I was in the middle of the trail and stopped to clean up a branch. I left my bike on, but was less than a minute. When I went to peddle/throttle I had no throttle. No noise, no nothing'. It acts like the key is off. It pedals the same with the bike on or off. The controller's red led is on. My motor and controller were cool, and the CA was reading as normal. The only thing I see differently is the CA would read 3watts just sitting(idle) previously. No it read 0watts at idle
-I checked all wire connections.
-Performed a BMS reset.
-Tried with CA disconnected


What is the troubleshooting protocol? How do read(test) the throttle?

Thanks
i think you have a loose cable check all connection and start with the four cable behind the swing arm
 
MAFIA said:
Allex said:
That one looks nice, I am sad now. Did order a white bomber with white front fork. They delivered the bike with a black one. I emailed Stealth about this and they responded with something like this: "terribly sorry, but there is nothing we can do now" so I am really dissapointed at them! They should at least give me some bonus for the trouble...
do you ask in stealth USA? or stealth AU? post a pic dude i want to see your bike and what num do you get

The white was discontinued by the factory. All the forks from Stealth are black: White Brothers and RST....The customer probably paid to powder coat it for looks.... I tried as well 8)
 
wugambino said:
Fighter #110 No Go :?: Please help

I was in the middle of the trail and stopped to clean up a branch. I left my bike on, but was less than a minute. When I went to peddle/throttle I had no throttle. No noise, no nothing'. It acts like the key is off. It pedals the same with the bike on or off. The controller's red led is on. My motor and controller were cool, and the CA was reading as normal. The only thing I see differently is the CA would read 3watts just sitting(idle) previously. No it read 0watts at idle
-I checked all wire connections.
-Performed a BMS reset.
-Tried with CA disconnected


What is the troubleshooting protocol? How do read(test) the throttle?

Thanks

I would start by disconnecting the regen button. If there's a short in the cable, that will disable the throttle. If that doesn't help, I'd try another throttle. If that still doesn't help, it could point to a Hall sensor failure.

Alternatively, once you've eliminated the regen button as the cause, instead of purchasing another throttle (although having a spare isn't a bad idea), you could first use a tester to check the Hall sensors. If they check out ok then try a new throttle. In fact it might be a good idea to get both a new spare throttle AND a tester.



http://www24.brinkster.com/lyen/product/tester/
 
I have installed a CAV3 DP on my Fighter. I inadvertently overwrote my VSCALE value (~31.Xx V/V). Is there a method that I can use to measure or extrapolate this value? Cheers!
 
remf

Good stuff bro. Hall tester is something I didn't know existed.

I actually did disconnect the regen button already. It really seems like there is no throttle input. It doesn't shudder, studder, or make any noise.
I was going to order another throttle(thumb) before this problem. But so I can sleep tonight, is there a way to read the throttle?

Thanks
Casey

I have metered the 3 pins, but don't really know what to look for. pins 1&2 read 700ohms. 1&3 read 750ohms. 2&3 read 1300ohms. I just read the throttle R at idle, and then at WOT. NO CHANGE in resistance. Bad throttle?
 
If you got 3W when stopped before, and zero watts showing now, it sounds like a complete open circuit somewhere on all main power. Not a hall issue.
 
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