E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Great to see the new owners coming onboard and getting their first tastes of ebike riding - now you know why we rave about our bikes :)

I've been hard at work in my off-road track lab to come up with a lighting system that I'd be happy to take onto a 24hr race or hard night ride, which is where I've spent my last few years in MTB competition (in between raising kids, running businesses). I've found that there are a whole bunch of factors that need to be taken into consideration with night riding, which I've attempted to address with a strong, low mounted, weatherproofed flood light that gives a broad fill for effective, accurate front wheel placement. Take a look at http://store.quietrush.com.au/lights.html and let me know what you think. I'm thinking "possum frighteners" pretty well sums them up. You'll find they also make amazingly versatile workshop lights, which is why these get specified in many mining vehicle setups locally.

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Allex said:
One time I catched up a guy with an self made eBike, he had a MagicPie in the front. He was pedaling like
I said: cool is that a MagicPie? He just mumbled somthing like "uhu, yeah" and did't even looked at me and continued to push those pedals lol people are so cold here! Disappointed for not getting a conversation from him a hit the throttle and passed him...

Lol, wow I sort of wish that was the case here. My main issue in Toronto are the hundreds of drivers who text while driving. It's as if they never used Siri or Google voice. I spot them at least 40 feet before they are about to slam into me. With the bomber I can at least accelerate around them on the road or ride on the grass next to the sidewalk if I need to.

Man that sucks this bike can't handle the winter. I guess I'll have to use my other Amego Bold ebike to get around in-city. Do you store your bike in the winter in Sweden? Your winters are about 4 months too right?
 
Kepler said:
proper159 said:
Not sure if I'd use Regen on snow during the winter. I still make sure I have a digit over my left break.

Actually regen braking is perfect for stopping in snow as it acts like anti locking brakes. Think about it. As soon as the wheel stops turning or slows right down, regen is no longer effective and as such lets go. Try it on some wet grass and you will see what I mean. :)

Thanks Kepler, I'll try it out on some grass although it looks like I'll be storing my bomber when it snows :(
 
proper159 said:
Allex said:
Man that sucks this bike can't handle the winter. I guess I'll have to use my other Amego Bold ebike to get around in-city. Do you store your bike in the winter in Sweden? Your winters are about 4 months too right?

Last week we had -4°C and a bit of snow, so about 4 month of evil cold yeah.
You can ride it in the snow, but avoid the salty roads. I will probably take it out sometimes during the nice, sunny winter days and take it for a ride in the woods. But will be wiping it dry afterwards, Yes I store it inside,
I think DH-Paule from Germany uses his Bomber in the snow.
I mean, look at his bike :D
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Allex said:
proper159 said:
Allex said:
Last week we had -4°C and a bit of snow, so about 4 month of evil cold yeah.
You can ride it in the snow, but avoid the salty roads. I will probably take it out sometimes during the nice, sunny winter days and take it for a ride in the woods. But will be wiping it dry afterwards, Yes I store it inside,
I think DH-Paule from Germany uses his Bomber in the snow.
I mean, look at his bike :D
file.php

Wow, I'm surprised nothing crazy happens to the bomber after a solid mud session. Yep, I'm finally over it, gonna store the bomber after the first snow fall and resume public transportation.

How much of a decrease in battery performance would I be looking at around -3 c? Will I get to 18 AH faster or will the bike shut down before 17-18 AH?
 
QuietRush said:
Great to see the new owners coming onboard and getting their first tastes of ebike riding - now you know why we rave about our bikes :)

I've been hard at work in my off-road track lab to come up with a lighting system that I'd be happy to take onto a 24hr race or hard night ride, which is where I've spent my last few years in MTB competition (in between raising kids, running businesses). I've found that there are a whole bunch of factors that need to be taken into consideration with night riding, which I've attempted to address with a strong, low mounted, weatherproofed flood light that gives a broad fill for effective, accurate front wheel placement. Take a look at http://store.quietrush.com.au/lights.html and let me know what you think. I'm thinking "possum frighteners" pretty well sums them up. You'll find they also make amazingly versatile workshop lights, which is why these get specified in many mining vehicle setups locally.

4183044_orig.png


7027302.png

That looks like a good light with a useful light pattern. Personally I'd like a light that runs off the bikes main battery to simplify charging, as long as it doesn't draw too much current. I'm not in love with the mount either. I think it would look better with motorcycle style fork ears.
 
Yesterday I received word from the dealer I'm buying my bike through, that the factory has informed them my bike should be complete within a weeks time, and shipping is estimated to take 2 weeks or less. I guess that means I may have my bike in about 3 weeks, yea.

I have a question about the u.s. distributor. Since I ordered my bike online from a dealer in L.A., and the bike comes from the factory in Australia, shipped directly to me, what's the purpose of the u.s. distributor? Aren't they kind of like an extra tit?
 
I feel for you guys that have to hibernate in the winter. In Dallas there's only about 1 or 2 months out of the year when it's cold enough to keep a weenie (me) off his bike.
 
I want to lace my Fighter's 4080 motor to a 26" wheel(http://www.jensonusa.com/Bicycle-Rims/Alex-Supra-D-Rim).

What size spokes do I need?
 
@proper you can have a lot of mudsessions, as long there is no salt and you clean the bike afterwards ;)

riding in the snow is funny, but will heat up the motor...
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1382558571.431517.jpg
 
what I dont use is wd40 because of its influence to plastics, cable insulation and...
much more better is ballistol, it is perfect for maintaining, protecting, cleaning, it creates a small film that protects, makes the bike shiny and makes it much more easy to clean it after the next mud session.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1382559390.056344.jpg
 
wugambino said:
I want to lace my Fighter's 4080 motor to a 26" wheel(http://www.jensonusa.com/Bicycle-Rims/Alex-Supra-D-Rim).

What size spokes do I need?
You know a 26" wheel won't fit on the fighter right ? If you were running a slick tyre on a 3" wide rim it might just fit but generally the answer is no.
If you're talking about putting the fighter motor on another bike, use the ebikes.ca spoke calc to work out the spoke length. Use the crystalyte H35 motor, the spoke flange is essentially the same
 
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
also notice that dh-paule has the controller relocated to inside the frame for better all weather water resistance.


http://www.electricbike.com/stealth-hot-rod/

Some info on the original bike. dh-paule has since stamped his own signature on the bike with some excellent upgrades.
 
Hyena said:
wugambino said:
I want to lace my Fighter's 4080 motor to a 26" wheel(http://www.jensonusa.com/Bicycle-Rims/Alex-Supra-D-Rim).

What size spokes do I need?
You know a 26" wheel won't fit on the fighter right ? If you were running a slick tyre on a 3" wide rim it might just fit but generally the answer is no.
If you're talking about putting the fighter motor on another bike, use the ebikes.ca spoke calc to work out the spoke length. Use the crystalyte H35 motor, the spoke flange is essentially the same

There looks to be room on swing arm to move the tire back, especially since the 26 is only an inch taller than a 24x3 razorback. Has this been tried before?
 
Sad bomber owner here.
Anybody know what might cause the real wheel to to behave as it's lock up? It's behaving as if the rear break is applied full force and the break itself feels a bit loose to the hand. When these things need more fluid they would not engage would they? Crossing my fingers I don't need a full motor replacement.
 
wugambino said:
Has this been tried before?
If I'm ever surmising I'll make it known :p

But yes, I've tried it. With the axle right at the very back of the dropout a standard 26" wheel with offroad tyre just comes into contact with the forward cross brace part of the swing arm. Hence why I said you might just get away with it with a slick tyre on a wide rim, because they'd sit flatter.
I think I've posted this before but the way around it would be to make a custom longer torque arm that's say 20mm or ~3/4" longer than the standard one and bolt this to the frame. This should be strong enough to enable you to get away with it.

Eg like this:

dropout.jpg

But the question is still why, the standard setup is pretty good. If anything I'd fit a 26" wheel up front, for more of a big wheel dirt bike look. I've tried this and it isnt bad.
 
Indeed Jay, a 26 up front with a 24 rear would handle great, possibly better than 24s front and rear due to slightly slack head angle.

Sad bomber owner here.
Anybody know what might cause the real wheel to to behave as it's lock up? It's behaving as if the rear break is applied full force and the break itself feels a bit loose to the hand. When these things need more fluid they would not engage would they? Crossing my fingers I don't need a full motor replacement.

RoboHead, I don't have the slightest Idea what the problem is with your Bomber, but unless you can detect a "burnt smell" when your nose is next to the rear wheel, probably not a smoked stator which means whatever the problem is, it won't involve a new purchase for a 5403. Doesnt' tell you much, but for what its worth.

Rick
 
robohead said:
Sad bomber owner here.
Anybody know what might cause the real wheel to to behave as it's lock up? It's behaving as if the rear break is applied full force and the break itself feels a bit loose to the hand. When these things need more fluid they would not engage would they? Crossing my fingers I don't need a full motor replacement.

Sounds like to me that the caliper has seized up. Can you remove the caliper from the bike?
 
Yes it does sound like the brake calliper is stuck and should be fairly obvious by looking at the action of the pads around the rotor.

If not, it could be dislodged or broken magnets inside the motor or quite possibly stator damage or a bearing seizure.
 
dh-paule said:
@proper you can have a lot of mudsessions, as long there is no salt and you clean the bike afterwards ;)

riding in the snow is funny, but will heat up the motor...

Man awesome photo DH-Paule...yep I'm gonna take everyone's advice and store my bomber as soon as the first salt drop. I don't feel like replacing the motor come spring!
 
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
proper159 said:
Wow, I'm surprised nothing crazy happens to the bomber after a solid mud session..

also notice that dh-paule has the controller relocated to inside the frame for better all weather water resistance..

Right. What do you all think about the controller covers from Quigley? I'm definitely ordering the fenders.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
That looks like a good light with a useful light pattern. Personally I'd like a light that runs off the bikes main battery to simplify charging, as long as it doesn't draw too much current. I'm not in love with the mount either. I think it would look better with motorcycle style fork ears.

I considered the moto style fork ears, but its less than optimal for the following reasons:
1. MC will typically have turn stops that prevent the forks hitting the frame. Stealths don't - they rely instead on rubber stops slid onto the fork tube, or similar - these will interfere with positioning and strength of the mounting, or require increased complexity in the mounting frame (I like simple);
2. I wanted to be able to easily mount/unmount the light without disturbing fork positioning and to also have a secondary mount attached that I can use to attach my smartphone to, using the same mounting points. That bit is still being worked on to find optimal material/stiffness;

Of course, each to their own.
 
proper159 said:
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
proper159 said:
Wow, I'm surprised nothing crazy happens to the bomber after a solid mud session..

also notice that dh-paule has the controller relocated to inside the frame for better all weather water resistance..

Right. What do you all think about the controller covers from Quigley? I'm definitely ordering the fenders.

Better have good fenders than the controller cover. With covers the bike looks to bulky for my taste. I want it to be as much bicycle looking as possible but with covers we are talking about motorcycle looks.
I have the Quigley feners. They are very good looking(probably the best looking), and the mountings are great!
But looks goes before use, they are to short. When going in rain I get the controller splashed down and it goes almost up to the crown.
The rear is also to short I get splashes on my back. Also what annoys me is that the rear fender flex so much when going fast over the bums that it hits the rear wheel creating an awful sound - people turn heads=not so stealth anymore :)
As you can see, the dirt is on the vboxx, controller and on the frame itself.
 

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