E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[1abv]

Anyone have left crank arm they want to sell guess I'm left side dependent I've gone through two already only sold in pairs I can trade right side 4 left. What is distance between swing arm and crank arm supposed to be left side and right

About an inch id say
Have u tryed bending it back,work for me
In the vice with wood jobs a gooden

GET FANCY! this is a very easy tool to make. You don't have to get all fancy w stamping into the metal...
Gives me measurements and allows me to bend the cranks back into the correct shape. Ive done it more times than I care to mention.... works great though..

 

[one4torque]

I had a spill that bent my left crank a few mo's ago.... I was able to just bend it back with a pipe extension for leverage...... it seemed to bend pretty easy with enough leverage.

 

[Rix]

I had a spill that bent my left crank a few mo's ago.... I was able to just bend it back with a pipe extension for leverage...... it seemed to bend pretty easy with enough leverage.

You got a way with it but probably don't want to bend/straighten the crank while its on the Boxx, the spindle is designed for all sorts of lateral loads but torsional loads, you could risk damaging something.

 

[one4torque]

Yeah.... I figured (at the time) the instant shock bending load during my crash was harder on the v boxx than my slow pulling force.... Fast or slow you are prob correct... Cant be too hard on the boxx.

 

[robohead]

Looking to figure out the exact brand of the twist throttle and grips(ODI?) used on the 2012 versions of the bomber. Links if anybody has them. NYX showed up and this budget half twist throttle from ebikes.ca already made me stand the bike up and run in circles with it.

 

[JumperJackFlash]

2012 Bomber uses Chrystalyte Half Twist Throttle.

 

[robohead]

2012 Bomber uses Chrystalyte Half Twist Throttle.

lol how obvious.. Thanks JJF, found it on amazon. Found some near alike ODI grips., but the orig ones have held up very well only needing some tightening up over the years.

 

[one4torque]

robo.... I find I like the older crystalyte twist (2012-2013) version better than the new type on the new SB's....... just like the feel better.

 

[Rix]

Yeah.... I figured (at the time) the instant shock bending load during my crash was harder on the v boxx than my slow pulling force.... Fast or slow you are prob correct... Cant be too hard on the boxx.

A while back, someone had posted about straightening the crank while it was on the bike. Dlogic chimed in and cautioned against it. Since he has rebuilt the Vboxx and made tech videos about how to disassemble, repair, and assemble the Vboxx, I figured his advice was worth listening too which is why I mentioned it.

 

[one4torque]

Rix - totally agree man.

This weekend is Alpha flux build wrap time...... oh boy... hope to ride by Sat PM!

 

[1abv]

Yeah.... I figured (at the time) the instant shock bending load during my crash was harder on the v boxx than my slow pulling force.... Fast or slow you are prob correct... Cant be too hard on the boxx.

A while back, someone had posted about straightening the crank while it was on the bike. Dlogic chimed in and cautioned against it. Since he has rebuilt the Vboxx and made tech videos about how to disassemble, repair, and assemble the Vboxx, I figured his advice was worth listening too which is why I mentioned it.

Agreed dewd! I use a 4 ft length of pipe to bend the crank arms.... that would be a shit ton of torque on the shaft of the vboxx...

on another note.......

 

[FL bomber]

A little off topic just wondering how are other stealth owners get permission from the boss 2 spend on our electrified habit( addiction) Electric lawn mower hedge trimmer weed wacker 4 electric bikes.. upgrades Motors Tires.. give your wife the E-grin .. bought her used Chevy Volt.. she's been E-grining 4 weeks now.Hmm I think I need another bike Maybe 76R 4 off road keep the bomber 4 the street

 

[biknut]

I bend all my crank arms on the bike.

I've never tried to straighten one out though.

 

[Rix]

Rix - totally agree man.

This weekend is Alpha flux build wrap time...... oh boy... hope to ride by Sat PM!

Make a vid bro, I want to see how your set up runs with a 24FET 90amp controller and the TC3080.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

A little off topic just wondering how are other stealth owners get permission from the boss 2 spend on our electrified habit( addiction) Electric lawn mower hedge trimmer weed wacker 4 electric bikes.. upgrades Motors Tires.. give your wife the E-grin .. bought her used Chevy Volt.. she's been E-grining 4 weeks now.Hmm I think I need another bike Maybe 76R 4 off road keep the bomber 4 the street

There's two way's of tackling this...
First...just go ahead and buy it anyway....explain later.

Second...buy a really cheap one...then upgrade it later:

I also got a 56V Ego Lawn mower recently...best Electric lawn mower out there. Wasn't cheap, but it does the job pretty good stock, although I have to recharge between front/rear lawns.
Eventually I plan to re-use my crapped out old Stealth Fighter battery with it since it's about the same voltage.

Cheers

 

[one4torque]

A wee little update:...
* installed the 8spd gears...... I'll prob just drop back to simple tall single gear setup.... much cleaner, and no deraleru to jack with... plus on 19" rim it looks a bit out of sorts, and I only get the middle 5 gears.
* installed the rear hub motor, cont, battery, and CA...... can only get about idle speed out of the motor...... if I unplug the ca and plug the throttle dir to the cry controller I can get random power.... ... does this mean I need to use the shunt? I need to research a bit on this cry controller, ca, and motor setup, then I'll be a alpha muther-trucker! yeah.




Oh I gotta say... this bike is LIGHT.... and pedals easy with no battery power..... going to be fun fun FUN on the trails....

 

[one4torque]

Ate dinner, re grouped...... came back.... and found I had a bad Crystalyte Throttle.... it was reading WOT at zero...... hence no powa.
I swapped out my spare cyrst throttle, and it works great if I plug it dir to controller.
No CA at this point. I'll have to figure out how to program it tomorrow.

1st ride:
bottom end about same as wifes SF.
Mid-top end..... STRONG.
I'll perm mount the controller tomorrow, and tidy up the wires for a legit ride.

 

[Rix]

Ate dinner, re grouped...... came back.... and found I had a bad Crystalyte Throttle.... it was reading WOT at zero...... hence no powa.
I swapped out my spare cyrst throttle, and it works great if I plug it dir to controller.
No CA at this point. I'll have to figure out how to program it tomorrow.

1st ride:
bottom end about same as wifes SF.
Mid-top end..... STRONG.
I'll perm mount the controller tomorrow, and tidy up the wires for a legit ride.

Was that the throttle I sent you?

 

[one4torque]

I dought it rix.... I have a collection of stuff some from ebay friends etc. i can fix it, the short is at the connector.

 

[Rix]

I dought it rix.... I have a collection of stuff some from ebay friends etc. i can fix it, the short is at the connector.

Sweet, going to have a ride report tonight?

 

[one4torque]

Cont hard mounted under frame. On charger now. Very cool bike from where I'm standing. Thx hyena,,,!

 

[one4torque]

I put a few laps around my block last night. I've got the throttle conn dir to the crystaylte controller. It was good last night.

I buttoned it all up today, and not so good on maiden voyage: I got 200' out of my drive, and the motor bound up and made a wirring noise........and no power.
And the drag on the rear hub makes it very hard to push. Did I burn up the rear motor in 200'?
This is off a fresh charge @ 75 volts, running throttle dir into cyr controller and no CA.

I'll pull the cover off the motor tomorrow when I get some time. It's like the bearings are locking up... and when you spin it you feel a rumble feeling like the bearing are full of sand.

Thinking a hall sensor came loose or motor ate the lead wires.

Pretty much my symptoms:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=69745&p=1052119&hilit=grinding+crystalyte#p1052119

 

[Emmett]

Rix, I'm close to getting my TC3065 going. At last!

I need to solder the (correct gender) plugs on the phase wires and will need a bigger iron for that.

I shall try without the freewheel spacer part to begin with.

The TC3065 seems to free spin a lot easier than the H40xx. I mean less back-EMF or something like that. Am I imaging that or could that be true?

This motor will be oil cooled. You can see my two drain/fill holes. There is also a 0.9mm breather hole near the sprocket. The side covers are bonded on with sika adhesive sealant. I confirmed that the supplied bearings in indeed sealed - thanks.

This is how I laced up the TC3065 to deal with the issue of Crystalyte swapping the left to right offset of the spoke hole lugs ... Big X far side (128mm spokes) and small X on this side (125mm spokes). Don't need any mods to the rim doing it this way.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

The TC3065 seems to free spin a lot easier than the H40xx. I mean less back-EMF or something like that. Am I imaging that or could that be true?

If the TC3065 uses 0.35mm stator laminations this is definitely going to be true.
I found the exact same thing when switching over to my Leaf motor which uses 0.35mm stator laminations.

How come you put the oil fill/drain plug near the perimeter? I would have thought it would make more sense from a seepage perspective to locate it closer to the axle on the disc side...although I guess then you've got the risk of oil getting on your disc brake.

Cheers

 

[Emmett]

If the TC3065 uses 0.35mm stator laminations this is definitely going to be true.
I found the exact same thing when switching over to my Leaf motor which uses 0.35mm stator laminations.

How come you put the oil fill/drain plug near the perimeter? I would have thought it would make more sense from a seepage perspective to locate it closer to the axle on the disc side...although I guess then you've got the risk of oil getting on your disc brake.

What size laminations are in my H40xx motors?

The fill/drain plugs never seep/leak a significant amount of oil. The fiber washers are very effective seals and I don't tighten the M5 plugs very tight although I ride a lot of rough stuff. The hub oil drain plug needs to be on the perimeter so it pours out when it's time to change it. You're right that the fill hole could be near the middle. I like the blow compressed air in one hole to expel the old oil out the other. The breather hole should never be on the disc side.

When my sealed hubs have leaked oil the problem areas have been:
1. The 0.9mm breather hole. If you need to put the bike down on a trail, it helps to lay the bike over with the hole side facing up.
2. Between axle and bearing race. You just end up with shiny axles. Wipe once a week or two. No real problem.
3. Improper seal between side cover and hub. That's a stuff up during assembly. Precisely why I use sikaflex urethane based sealant and not shitty silicone rubber.


Some oil gets out, but bugger all. Just a quick wipe before a ride. Usually I cannot see it, but I'll wipe anyway. Especially on the disc side. I use castor oil because it's effectively odourless.