E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Stealth_Rider]

Could use a recommendation.

I used Voltriders in Columbia, MO USA to do my MC Bomber rear wheel build using a ProWheel 19" x 1.4" black rim. The Heidenau K35 tire on the rim was a drop in replacement for the Bomber.

Voldriders: http://voltriders.com/?page_id=8

My Bomber build: http://www.fareinc.com/65/Bomber_MC_Tires/

I'd like some recommendations of other wheelbuilders so I have some choices besides just Voltriders for my next build (a Heidenau K35 tire on a 19" x 1.85" rim). Anywhere in the continental USA is fine but East of the Mississippi river is best.

The 19" x 1.85" rim I am looking at using for the next build is something like this Moose 36 hole black rim: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOOSE-BLACK...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5645c2d11d&vxp=mtr

Thanks

-Jim

 

[Rix]

Artic Fly, Stealth is really good about keeping the price standard across the board. Certain countries will gouge you more because of import tarrif, Germany comes to mind. But as far as base price goes exluding certain countries import taxes, its the same.

How come you didn't use 2" rims? How much more do the 19" tires weigh? I'm guessing 2 or 3 lbs

2.15 inch rims are super super overkill, even for my fat ass on the Bomber. I do like the looks of them though, Zombies Warp build shows how awesome those rims are. I do have two 18x1.4s and an 18x1.85. Don't know which one I will go with when the 5405 is finished being modded. The total of weight difference between the two wheels in the pics I just posted above is the 19mc is just over 3.5 pounds heavier. Couldn't believe that they were that close in weight. Makes since when I factured in that I have 6oz of slime in the 24MTB along with a super HD tube, and a mr. tuffy tire liner. With the 19MC, I just have a regular 2.7-3.00x19 kenda tube inside of the tire. Don't need all of that other anti flat crap.

I'd like some recommendations of other wheelbuilders so I have some choices besides just Voltriders for my next build (a Heidenau K35 tire on a 19" x 1.85" rim). Anywhere in the continental USA is fine but East of the Mississippi river is best.

Jim, I had Voltriders lace up my 19x1.4 rim to the Marzocchi hub you see in the right wheel above in the pics. I suck at 3x lacing and Voltriders did a fantastic job. As stated above, when I get my 5405, I will be lacing that to either my 18x1.4 or 18x1.85 rim. I had Gary from prowheel racing cut 115m 10g spokes for me. I can lace 1x easy all day long. As with prior pics, I use pencils rubber banded to the Bomber's swingarm for truing. For your 19x1.85 rim, you can probably get some 8g or 9g spokes from Gary cut at 128mm for the 54xx. Run you about 70-80 bucks for 37 spokes and nipples.

Mexican Batman, contact volt riders for the front. They did my front wheel and did a fantastic job. As far as the rear goes, since you bought the rim from Gary at Prowheel racing, he can cut spokes for your rear build, then it would be a matter of taking your hub motor to a bike shop and have them lace up your rim to the hub 1x. Lacing 1x is so easy any bike shop can do it. The 3x done right needs a wheel smith. you want 127mm long. Note, I recommended 128mm length to Jim above because 1.85 rims are slightly thicker than the 1.4 rim.

 

[arcticfly]

Thanks for that Rick!

I am looking at getting a second motor put into a MC rim. That would be the one with the most torque. 5405? Or can I run a cromotor on the original controller successfully? Allso can you program the controller to pump out more amps, and would the battery handle it?

Cheers
Alex

 

[Allex]

Great tips Rix!
Cromotor in a Bomber would be interesting, is it more powerful than a 5403? Anyway, cromotor would run fine with stock controller.
Think I read somewhere(Hyena post?) that if you add a cro to the bomber you have to say goodbye to the rear brakes.
I don't think the controller have programming socket? Crystalite controllers, are they Infineons? If so, maybe you could solder the programming socket on it and program with Lyen software or similar.
No one knows(I think) what kind of C rating the Stealth battery is.

When/if my battery die I will upgrade to a new(lipo maybe) go with the Adaptto MAX-E controller(or maybe Kelly) and cromotor(if it's better)

 

[biknut]

This is from the Stealth website. Does this look like they've started using a different type of forks on Bombers?


SUSPENSION
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The standard issued front suspension sports 7 conventional dual crown forks soak up bumps with ease and can be easily adjusted for varying terrain at the turn of a dial. The single pivot rear coil over mono-shock rear suspension is custom valved to iron out the back breaking bumps at the rear. With a simple turn of the compression and rebound dials, it can be adjusted for casual every day riding or more aggressive off road environments.

 

[biknut]

The brakes seem different too.


BRAKES

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The Bomber electric bike comes standard with powerful MT2 Magura hydraulic brake calipers giving any rider precise feedback using only 1 or 2 fingers on the levers. After a long hard ride there's never any doubt of pulling up when you really need it.

 

[Allex]

Nah, same old RST front fork and Magura MT2s
The picures on the webpage is old too.
They do not use carbon fibre steering, and the Gator brakes are long gone. The seat post is no longer welded to the frame, and so on.

 

[Rix]

Thanks for that Rick!

I am looking at getting a second motor put into a MC rim. That would be the one with the most torque. 5405? Or can I run a cromotor on the original controller successfully? Allso can you program the controller to pump out more amps, and would the battery handle it?

Cheers
Alex

You bet Arcticfly, and yes, the 5405 is the toquiest motor out there in the Cristalyte series, its on par with the TC65 even though its much more robust. As it is, the 5405 is very hard to come by. I had been searching for a year before I found mine. 5404 are more common and can be found.

Great tips Rix!
Cromotor in a Bomber would be interesting, is it more powerful than a 5403? Anyway, cromotor would run fine with stock controller.
Think I read somewhere(Hyena post?) that if you add a cro to the bomber you have to say goodbye to the rear brakes.
I don't think the controller have programming socket? Crystalite controllers, are they Infineons? If so, maybe you could solder the programming socket on it and program with Lyen software or similar.
No one knows(I think) what kind of C rating the Stealth battery is.

When/if my battery die I will upgrade to a new(lipo maybe) go with the Adaptto MAX-E controller(or maybe Kelly) and cromotor(if it's better)

I think there would be enough room for a Hayes V9 rotor on the Bomber. Zombies Warp frame swingarm is 160.5mm wide, ours are 162mm wide. Just have to get creative with spacing the hub side to side and custom modify the swingarm torque blocks for a 16x10mm axle. Ours are 14x10mm. Yah, I don't think it would be plugn ride with our stock controller. Yes the Cromotor will smoke a 5403 torque thrust wise, however, the 5403 will go faster same voltage amps input. The V2cromo is rated for 5KW continues so it may be more robust than the 54xx. Not sure about that, and nobody has done any destruction testing on the Cromo yet.

Rick

 

[dh-paule]

Could use a recommendation.

I used Voltriders in Columbia, MO USA to do my MC Bomber rear wheel build using a ProWheel 19" x 1.4" black rim. The Heidenau K35 tire on the rim was a drop in replacement for the Bomber.

Voldriders: http://voltriders.com/?page_id=8

My Bomber build: http://www.fareinc.com/65/Bomber_MC_Tires/

I'd like some recommendations of other wheelbuilders so I have some choices besides just Voltriders for my next build (a Heidenau K35 tire on a 19" x 1.85" rim). Anywhere in the continental USA is fine but East of the Mississippi river is best.

The 19" x 1.85" rim I am looking at using for the next build is something like this Moose 36 hole black rim: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOOSE-BLACK...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5645c2d11d&vxp=mtr

Thanks

-Jim

dLogic has rebuild my 5405 motor, laced into a 19x1.85 prowheel , next week I will visit him and complete my bomber. will do some pictures as soon it is ready to fly

 

[CJonaBttlrckt]

Hi folks,
Does anyone know where I might track down a 5405 here in Sydney to build another wheel?
Being in the Blue Mountains, which are really more like hills compared to mountains in other parts of this planet, a bit more torque would be ideal.
Cheers,
Clinton

 

[Rix]

[Could use a recommendation.


The 19" x 1.85" rim I am looking at using for the next build is something like this Moose 36 hole black rim: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOOSE-BLACK...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5645c2d11d&vxp=mtr

Thanks

-Jim
dLogic has rebuild my 5405 motor, laced into a 19x1.85 prowheel , next week I will visit him and complete my bomber. will do some pictures as soon it is ready to fly

Puale, what kind of tire will you be running on your Bomber? Still going the bib mousse route?

Clinton, Hopefully you can find a 5405, Like I said before, took a little over a year to procur one for myself.

Rick

 

[Kepler]

Hi folks,
Does anyone know where I might track down a 5405 here in Sydney to build another wheel?
Being in the Blue Mountains, which are really more like hills compared to mountains in other parts of this planet, a bit more torque would be ideal.
Cheers,
Clinton

5405 motors are hard to get period. Again directly from Stealth is probably your best best. Failing that, the Cromotor I believe is a similar wind in terms of torque and speed to 5405.

 

[Kepler]

Great tips Rix!
Cromotor in a Bomber would be interesting, is it more powerful than a 5403? Anyway, cromotor would run fine with stock controller.

You don't think Stealth hasn't destruction tested Cromotors? You might be a little surprised to see the factory graveyard of failed motors used during the constant R & of the bike. :wink:

Think I read somewhere(Hyena post?) that if you add a cro to the bomber you have to say goodbye to the rear brakes.
I don't think the controller have programming socket? Crystalite controllers, are they Infineons? If so, maybe you could solder the programming socket on it and program with Lyen software or similar.

The boards are Infineon based and are programmed using the standard V2 or V3 programing cable as used with Lyen controllers. However, as they are factory flashed, there is no header cable soldered to the board. Not hard to solder a programming header in though (and void your warranty)

No one knows(I think) what kind of C rating the Stealth battery is.

I think it would be safe to say they are up around the 10C mark.

 

[Allex]

Great inputs Kep!

So you are saying that Crystalites are more durable? If the battery can take 10C maybe that would mean that we could use faster chargers. The stock charger is only 6A so it takes around 3 hours to charge an empty battery. A want 20A charger, charge in 40 min and go!

 

[Rix]

Great inputs Kep!

So you are saying that Crystalites are more durable? If the battery can take 10C maybe that would mean that we could use faster chargers. The stock charger is only 6A so it takes around 3 hours to charge an empty battery. A want 20A charger, charge in 40 min and go!

When it comes to the Lo-down on Stealth machines, Kepler is in the know. One of the reason why Stealth is the fantastic company they are is with R&D and everything they do is "over engineered". Their batterys are subjected to 4-5c loads, so its not suprising the battery could handle 10c discharge rate. Anyway with your 20AH charger idea, I think Kep's advise would be to not do it. Even though lots of these batteries can handle 2C charging, keeping charge rates around 1/2c to 1/3c is easier on them.

Rick

 

[QMS]

YAH QMS, why didn't you recommend WP forks before we bought the 888s? I wonder if some poly impregnated SKF Seals would be less sticky? Just the same, the 888s are a nice and better up grade. The 2.5w Motorex is good shit. I used that for my forks on my XCF 450. We will see how I like the Hippie Tech valving when I get it done. Probably will be a January project.

Hey Rix
Sorry about that.... i do more reading than posting Look, any upper line maz's are good but i think the WB's are realy suited to the bomber (re weight, they were originally set up for the Zero electric MC bike) and while this "Stealth factory option" is not the cheapest i think every Stealth buyer should bite the bullet and JUST DO IT. They are AWSOME

 

[MexicanBatman]

The groove 200 probably needs a slightly lighter spring for the bomber

I think in my opinion they are about 5% too stiff for me and I'm well over 100kg and ride off-road DH only

So a 60-90kg rider would find them real stiff


I've dropped mine through the crown as low as they will go and increased the rear preload quite a bit, I have the new progressive spring now it performs much better and seems heaps better balanced off road.

My bomber is set up like my dirt bike high bars fmx style. I'm looking into a direct mount stem but the forks may get in the way

 

[Rix]

YAH QMS, why didn't you recommend WP forks before we bought the 888s? I wonder if some poly impregnated SKF Seals would be less sticky? Just the same, the 888s are a nice and better up grade. The 2.5w Motorex is good shit. I used that for my forks on my XCF 450. We will see how I like the Hippie Tech valving when I get it done. Probably will be a January project.

Hey Rix
Sorry about that.... i do more reading than posting Look, any upper line maz's are good but i think the WB's are realy suited to the bomber (re weight, they were originally set up for the Zero electric MC bike) and while this "Stealth factory option" is not the cheapest i think every Stealth buyer should bite the bullet and JUST DO IT. They are AWSOME

Yah, WBs are probably the berst since Zero ran them when their machines when they still had some MTB components on them and weighed around 150#. As we speak, my forks are getting revalved. Should be a slick set up when I get everything back together and going with the 5405. Anyone having issues with the DNM, be patient and wait until they break in a bit. Figure 1000 miles offroad. Mine has over 3k offroad miles on it and is really starting to feel and work good.

Mexican Batman, you and I are in the same boat, we be heavy riders. I run between 110 and 118 kg and slightly more with riding gear and camel back on. Between my Bomber with the MC tires, and me with all gear, probably pusshing 180kg (400#)ready to ride bike and rider weight combined. Yep, with the crap I subject my Bomber too, the Rix's official ruling is our bikes are tough as hell. Currently putting my machine through a face lift, will post pics when done.

Rick

 

[actionobject]

Hello people,

I am about to take delivery of a Stealth Bomber this week and would greatly appreciate any tips on initial preventative maintenance.

I have been soaking up a lot of info on the post but have yet to find a comprehensive list of initial break in steps, or things i can do from the start that will preempt issues later on. So far this is what i have found.

- lube the v box
- water proof the key switch and screens and buttons
- sounds like waterproofing the connectors, hall sensor, and boards may be a good idea?

Any and all assembly and break in tips are HUGELY appreciated.

S T O K E D !!!

 

[Rix]

Hello people,

I am about to take delivery of a Stealth Bomber this week and would greatly appreciate any tips on initial preventative maintenance.

I have been soaking up a lot of info on the post but have yet to find a comprehensive list of initial break in steps, or things i can do from the start that will preempt issues later on. So far this is what i have found.

- lube the v box
- water proof the key switch and screens and buttons
- sounds like waterproofing the connectors, hall sensor, and boards may be a good idea?

Any and all assembly and break in tips are HUGELY appreciated.

S T O K E D !!!

Welcome to the club Actionobject! Sounds like you know what the needs are for chassis maintenance. Check PSI, unless you are a small fellow, run 30PSI front and rear tires. For the first 5-6 rides, take it easy, don't WOT everywhere and give the battery a chance to break in. After about 20-30 charge/discharge cycles, your battery will be working at optimum. Other than that, experiment with suspension settings, the rear DNM shock takes quite a while to break in, but when It does, its pretty sweet. I dare say for only having one compression valve circuit, its one the best shocks out there. If you get some Boeshield T9 you can spray your connectors and inside the key switch, and CA buttons, and that should be good enough for anything short of heavy monsoon type rain and pressure washing. What color is your Bomber?

Rick

 

[actionobject]

Thx Rick!

Grey.

Do i need to flush the vboxx or can i just add the lube since it should be brand new and clean?

Also what tools are indicated? what size and type are the screws?

Are there any settings i need to modify on the CA?

 

[Kepler]

Great inputs Kep!

So you are saying that Crystalites are more durable? If the battery can take 10C maybe that would mean that we could use faster chargers. The stock charger is only 6A so it takes around 3 hours to charge an empty battery. A want 20A charger, charge in 40 min and go!

Hi Allex,I think more to the point the Cromotors was no more durable than the 54xx motor. No point changing just for the sake of change. Also I know it was important that the bike retained its 80kph speed capability.

In relation to charging, fast charging is great but comes at a price both in terms of hardware and stress on the battery. I have not seen the charge spec on the battery but I would be surprised if it wasn't 1C capable. A charge time of one hour would be great and worth considering on an out of warranty bike.

This one would do it. Rated at 18A @ 84V. Probably closer to 15A in real world operation or at least this is what I found.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/alloy-she...ifepo4li-ionlead-acid-battery-ev-charger.html

I think a 10A charger would be a good compromise though. This is the one I use http://www.bmsbattery.com/alloy-she...ifepo4li-ionlead-acid-battery-ev-charger.html Keep in mind, it will probably cost another $200 in shipping as BMS Battery like to boost margins on cheap item prices with exorabent shipping prices.

Fair bit cheaper then the 2000W version and probably would be acceptable warranty wise. An email to Stealth would be advisable first though just incase.

 

[Rix]

Thx Rick!

Grey.

Do i need to flush the vboxx or can i just add the lube since it should be brand new and clean?
Also what tools are indicated? what size and type are the screws?

Are there any settings i need to modify on the CA?

Shouldnt need to touch the CA settings. If anything just leave them alone until battery break in. After 20-30 cycles you may consider dropping LVC from 70-69 volts. It will give you just a little more performance after about 1000 watts 13-14ah has been consumed. Word of caution though, if you drop your LVC to 69 volts, and your BMS trips, raise it back up to 70 volts. I have heard from some folks that 69 volts is tripping the BMS and requiring a "hard reset" which requires popping off the side covers and retripping the battery while charged unplugged then plugged in. Mine tripped the BMS when I dropped my LVC to 68 Volts. Felt like I had a catastrophic failure. Just break in the battery properly for long life and fun times. Having said all of that, Stealth does such a good job with setting up their bikes that you will be more than satisfied if you leave everything alone and just charge and ride.

Hi Allex,I think more to the point the Cromotors was no more durable than the 54xx motor. No point changing just for the sake of change. Also I know it was important that the bike retained its 80kph speed capability.

Kepler, Stealth seems pretty adamant about keeping the Bombers top speed at 80 KPH (50MPH) and higher. Is there a story behind that? I don't think it would happen, but It wouldn't surprise me if down the road Stealth adds a high speed (5403 or hill climb (5405) motor options on their Bomber along with all of the other options such as fork, brakes, custom colors, and tire options. I know Stealth used to entertain motor options for customer then that changed back in the first half of 2011.

Rick

 

[Rix]

Eveybody, I wanted to point this out. See how Mexican Battman has his bike tied down with this fork Block? This will save and preserve the life of your fork performance immensily. Mexican Batman has a very nice fork block, however, I just cut a piece of 2x4 and wedge it into my fork and tire when I tie down my Bomber in my truck. Anyway I thought it was worth pointing out.

Rick

 

[Kepler]

I must admit, I just rip down on the tiedowns with little thought to the stress being placed on the the compressed forks. Thanks for the tip, will definitely block it next time.