Ebike bike Wheel pulling to one side

[amberwolf]

All a torque arm is designed to do is to stop the axle from rotating.



If your wheel isn't dished correctly, it will still be offset to one side more than the other.

 

[adamsavage79]

All a torque arm is designed to do is to stop the axle from rotating.



If your wheel isn't dished correctly, it will still be offset to one side more than the other.

Then I dunno. It's been dished a few times, and nobody can get the wheel to center itself. It must be something to do with frame I guess ? When I have more money, I'm going to look into getting a different frame and transferring everything over.

 

[amberwolf]

If no one can dish it to centered, then there is likely a problem with the method being used.

If all the spokes are the same length, for instance, then there are a couple of ways to dish something at least a little bit, and still maintain the required tension.

--flip the spokes on one side so all heads are inward, and all spokes on the other side so the heads are outward. That moves the rim over to the inward-head side by about the amount of the flange thickness.

--use a rim with holes that are closer to one edge than the other.

But the best way is just to build it like a normal rear wheel, and use shorter spokes on one side (the drive side with the chain, usually), and longer on the other. Spoke calculators typically have a function in them specifically to give you the right length for each side to get a centered rim over any hub, as long as you correctly measure the various things it asks for.

If it dishes correctly in a truing stand but not in the frame, then the frame itself is offset and the wheel must be dished to compensate for that, and not for a standard frame type.


If the frame itself were the problem, then the original wheel wouldn't work right either, unless that wheel itself is offset to compensate for the frame offset. If so, then it will not be centered if the wheel is flipped over. If you can put the original wheel in the frame either direction and it's still centered, then the frame isn't offset and neither is the original wheel.



Hubmotors don't always have axle shoulders and/or spoke flanges correclty setup to make a wheel dishable to the correct extent necessary, without using washers to space the axle shoulder on one side away from the dropout on the inboard side of that dropout.

 

[E-HP]

Do both the original wheel and the hub motor slide right into the dropouts easily, or do you need to spread the dropouts as you''re putting in the hub motor?

 

[adamsavage79]

I don't have the original wheel anymore, and I don't recall if another wheel sat properly in the frame. I also wouldn't really know what spokes to get that would be longer on one side, and shorter on the other. This isn't a typical wheel.

 

[amberwolf]

If you cannot test with another wheel, and you haven't tested this, or don't have the information anymore, then the first thing you need to do is perform this test, and the other similar tests that have been suggested, step by step, one at a time.

Then post your complete and detailed results of each test here, along with the description of the test you were performing and why.

If you don't, you are possibly just heading down a path that leads to frustration, as you don't know what the actual problem is, unless and until you test to find out what exactly it is.

It's very difficult to fix a problem when you don't even know what the problem is.

I also wouldn't really know what spokes to get that would be longer on one side, and shorter on the other.

I think you need to spend more time reading what people are posting. If you don't understand what they're posting, you should quote the part you need help with, and ask for clarification.


As I already said, spoke calculators would tell you which ones to get. Any good bike shop that does custom spokes could figure it out, too.

Or, as I also already said, you just lace the spokes differently if you have the same length, and it will shift it a little bit.

Or check the various other things that have been suggested, that I don't think have been done yet.

This isn't a typical wheel.

What, specifically and exactly, in complete detail, is not typical about it?

 

[adamsavage79]

I'm not understanding half of what you guys were saying and I'm just getting frustrated and even more stressed out.

If you go back to page one you will see the testing that I've already done.

 

[john61ct]

Find a good professional get them to to it and relax

 

[amberwolf]

I'm not understanding half of what you guys were saying and I'm just getting frustrated and even more stressed out.

Then I'll say again:

If you don't understand what they're posting, you should quote the part you need help with, and ask for clarification.

We can't help you if you don't help us help you.

If you prefer I stay out of the thread to keep your stress level down, I can do that.

 

[adamsavage79]

The bike shop I took it to, managed to get the wheel mostly centered with spacers. He is guessing, that one of my dropouts was filed out 1mm too much on the side, causing the wheel to shift. However, I would think this would be noticeable when the wheel was not tightened and just sitting in the frame.

He also said the bearings in motor itself are worn down, and this is causing the noise I've been hearing.

 

[docw009]

The bike shop I took it to, managed to get the wheel mostly centered with spacers. He is guessing, that one of my dropouts was filed out 1mm too much on the side, causing the wheel to shift. However, I would think this would be noticeable when the wheel was not tightened and just sitting in the frame.

This is quite common with the cheap derailleurs that slip into one dropout slot. You've got one slot 4mm higher than the other. WIth a light wheel that uses a skewer. it's pretty easy to align the wheel and hold it by hand while one locks the quick release lever. With a heavy hub motor, it seems to me that the wheel wants to go crooked in the dropouts as one tightens the axle nuts. You just have to hold it place.

I will say I am glad I learned about wheel dishing. I used to have big problems with wheels not centered in the middle of the caliper brakes. I would cock the wheel to center it. Now that I can move it a few mm, it's a lot easier.

 

[adamsavage79]

I'm not sure how a derailleur, plays into this ? I had to file drop outs, as the axle is too big to fit normally. The wheel looked centered before I tightened it. All that matters now is that it's pretty much centered.

 

[markz]

A few bike shops can cut spokes to custom lengths. I usually use Dan's Competition mail order for custom length spokes. Custom cut spokes are almost invariably 14ga straight or 14-15ga double butted.

Don't reuse the rim that came with your wheel. Get a better one that has holes that are the right size for 14ga nipples. Luna Cycle has excellent Alex DM24 rims for a very good price. Or you can get a rim with off-center spoke holes to help mitigate the dishing problem with your hub motor.

Perma-banned Chalo (I hope your doing well big guy!)
I dont see no spokes or nips on danscomp website, but its best to call them on their tele line to confirm, which is what you posted in another thread about danscomp. I do remember they had spokes and nips online before the new website revamp, now they have nothing.

As for custom spokes, none except one bicycle store where I am at, ebike store at that. Will vary in different in every city, gotta call around.
Order from www.ebikes.ca as its a reasonable s/h price.

 

[markz]

It seems that I will need a 2nd torque arm to stop the axle from shifting. I had a complete rebuild done of the wheel, and I'm using much better quality spokes and nipples. Yet I still have a problem with the wheel shifting to the one side when you tighten it.

I got the spokes from this company: https://www.spokeservice.ca/shop/spokes/sapim-strong-spokes?attribute_color=Black&attribute_length=110mm

I been eyeballing them hard, Polyax Nipples and probably some spokes.

How did it turn out with spokeservice.ca?

 

[adamsavage79]

Spokeservice.ca is cheaper than ebikes.ca by about $7. The reason being, is because Ebikes list everything in USD vs CDN. Both are located in Vancouver, so there is no distance advantage between them, and they are using the same type of spokes. So far though, I'm happy with these spokes. They are a much better quality than the stock ones that come with Golden Motor Kit.

 

[adamsavage79]

I got a new frame, and I was able to put the wheel from the new frame into the old frame. That wheel sits just fine in the frame. So after looking at more and more, I wondered if my original theory was correct. I grinded out too much in the drop out. Had I caught this MUCH earlier, it would of been a simple matter of getting a new derailleur drop out. This was the side that had too much taken out, and it was on the side walls, not the bottom part if that makes sense ? Basically there was a small gap from the side of the axle to the inside of the drop out. The new frame does not have this problem. The wheel sits in the frame, without ANY grinding at all. Not even removing the pant.

So it seems I need to order a entire new set of spokes again, as they are not adjustable due to them being pulled over to one side. This as to try and offset the wheel pulling over to the left.. Expensive mistake!