Ebikeling 1200W Controller starts then dies

[steverichab]

Hello,
I have 2 E-bikes I built about 5 years ago(Golden motor 48V Magic Pie 3's+Cycle Analyst) on mountain bike frames and about 2 years the internal controller died on one, last year the other.
I had trouble mounting the "universal" replacement controller GM offers and decided to move to a external 48V Ebikeling controller and 810 LED controller just now(Jan '20).

1200W 48V controller
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NGP8YGQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
810 LED
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J4Z7F74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The conversion went well on both bikes, I thought! The bikes spin up nicely in my shop and the Cycle Analyst show current draw is fine(2-5 Amps no load) while up on the kick stand on both bikes. As soon as I take the bikes out for the first ride they start to move but shut down within one second and I have to cycle the power to reset. Every time I try on either bike the same thing happens.
The only thing connected to the Ebikeling controller(s) is Throttle + breaks + 810 LED
and the hall sensors and the phase wires to the motor. I did not connect PAS, Speed Sensor or external light.
Very strange and I am baffled. Is there something I need to do to these controllers (jumpers or connectors or something) . Again both bike work like a champ on the bench but as soon as they see any load they "trip" out and need to be turned off and on.

Before I take things back apart I thought I'ed reach out. I believe both batteries and both motors are in fine shape but.... Any help would be appreciated, Thanks in advance

 

[jpacadd]

Maybe it can't run without a speed sensor? I was going to say does it have brake sensors, mine died once first thought was controller but it was the sensor magnet fell off.

 

[E-HP]

Before I take things back apart I thought I'ed reach out. I believe both batteries and both motors are in fine shape but.... Any help would be appreciated, Thanks in advance

Do you have a voltmeter that you can use to monitor the voltage while trying the bike? Check the amount of voltage sag you're getting when it shuts down.

 

[steverichab]

Thank You, The Cycle Analyst constantly monitors both the voltage and the current draw. As I said the current with no load on the bike is between 2 and 5 amps and the voltage stays above 50V.
As soon as I hop on and try to take off it dies and I have to cycle the power to reset the controller.

 

[amberwolf]

what peak current (amax) do you see in the cycle analyst's currents page?

what minimum voltage do you see (vmin) in the ca's voltage page?

those two will help you see if there is a problem with the system drawing too much power and causing the battery to either shutdown, or the controller to reach lvc and shutdown.


it's also possible that even though it appears to work no-load on the bench, it might have the wrong phase/hall combination, so the current is much higher than it should be when loaded down.

 

[E-HP]

Thank You, The Cycle Analyst constantly monitors both the voltage and the current draw.

As soon as I hop on and try to take off it dies and I have to cycle the power to reset the controller.

Great, but don’t keep it a secret. What was the voltage sag right before the system cuts out?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jsr11]

Hi
Were you able to resolve the shutdown problem? I am seeing a similar problem. Mine will run
in PAS1. It will rum most of the time in PAS 02 but shuts down sometimes. It's more reliable
if I help pedaling and ease in to the throttle. (I'm only using throttle) I think the controller
just won't handle enough power.
thanks

 

[docw009]

What's the specs on your battery, jsr11?

This type of behavior where motor runs with load but causes a battery reset when the wheel is on the ground could mean the battery can't supply the current used by a 1200 W controller without sagging under LVC..