grindz145
1 MW
This has to be the most refined bike Ive seen. All the weight low and in the frame where it belongs. Absolutely incredible. Cheers.
A photo will explain it better I can.e-cannon said:I'm not sure if it is my English but that one I do not understand...Zoot Katz said:The edges of the triangular battery box form need to be squared so the box doesn't end up twisted.
Yeah, the last two laminations were toe-nailed to prevent slipping.e-cannon said:ok understand now. maybe you could just drive some long enough nails into the side to prevent any shifting.
so I took his advice and posted it here.I haven't used these specific ones, only know that they are one of the "gold standards" of EV contactors, used successfully all the time in conversions of cars, motorcycles, sometimes powerful ebikes, etc. I'd use them too if I could afford them.
Wiring...the smaller connections are going to be for the coil end. Some of them have the coil electronics/suppression built in; you can check the Czonka/Kilovac web pages to be sure if yours does, by model number, or there is a page somewhere here on ES that listed them, and also at least two pages over on DIY Electric Car forums that I have seen.
I don't know for sure, but I do not think the main contactor connections for the switching of power actually have a polarity. If they do, then you'll need to follow that.
If it's rated up to 36V it shoudl work on anything up to 36V, but if your system goes above that when it's fully charged (probably does) then you should check the specs for that model number to be sure it can take it. I suspect that the rating is for the coil, not the contactor part. But check first.
Also, remember that if you post your questions in your main build thread, *anyone* that knows can answer, instead of just the one person (or few people) you might ask via PM. It'll get you faster and possibly better help than a single person can give, most likely.
dnmun said:if your pack is always on the bike, you can eliminate the large current cables from the switch and leave them connected permanently to the controller by soldering them. but you need to put a switch inline on the small red wire which carries the controller circuit current from the battery to the controller.
the controller circuit current will drain your battery if left on, but the main current path through those big wires to the output mosfets is isolated and current does not leak out of your pack and through those wires unless you turn on the controller.
this also eliminates the spark when you hook up the controller to the pack.
that would everything make much easier for me. I first thougt this one was hardwired too.ebikes.ca said:On/Off Switch: These controllers have a rocker ON/OFF switch that shuts the controller off so that it draws no current. It eliminates the need for a high current switch inline with the battery pack.
thanks for the kind words!Crimson Head said:Wow - that must be the cleanest build I have ever seen. A masterpiece. Congrats e-cannon.
I can't get to my controller without key... the barrel also locks my battery box. So that's not gonna happen. But also I will not have a second chance to start loosing my keychain... But anyway, I did it that way. Got in the controller and soldered wires for a parrallel switch. If it happens that my key switch will not close for any reason I will have the possiblility to open the case and reactivate the controllers switch. good idea dnmun.dnmun said:that way you could use the key to turn off the controller current and disable the bike too. that would allow you to have two parallel switches also so if you lost your key, you could use the switch on the controller to turn it on, but otherwise leave it turned off. not secure, but they are gonna steal it anyway if it is unlocked.
yeah that's why my lock barrel just pushes an on-off push button and then goes back and the keys go back in the pocket where they belong...auraslip said:WTF do you do with the rest of the keys when your riding? Leave them dangling from the side of your bike?
problem with that key is that every farmer could take a ride on your bikeauraslip said:BTW I went with a hella power switch.
Yes I did so after replacing the blown controller with an infineon. I then also connected another low current switch in parallel on the outside for just turning off the bike when I am on a "safe" place. I mean if no thieves are around...auraslip said:You should just use the ignition wire on your controller, and rig that up to your keyswitch.
I never experienced major problems riding in windy situations. the "sail area" is too small and too near the ground to get me into problems. However the moderate climate and the topographic situation here don't generate really strong winds very often.hillzofvalp said:I would not want to be the rider of that bike on a windy day,
No. It's the controller.hillzofvalp said:Is that a charger mounted inside?