EZip Controller problem

[cleansteve]

I'm at my wit's end, my son's 2008 Ezip Trailz(standard 24 V SLA, brush motor) went dead a few weeks ago (no power, no lights light up on throttle)...in cleaning up the battery connections I accidentally reversed the polarity when putting it back together...of course, it didn't work, so I bought a new controller (Currie CT -2435-001) and, since I hadn't yet realized the polarity was reversed, I probably fried that one as well. Finally realized what I'd done, fixed the wiring issue, bought another controller AND throttle, and still no power or lights on the throttle. I've tested the output from controller to the throttle's battery gauge and I'm getting no voltage, but I do show 10 volts going to the motor. All wiring has been tested, everything's right, no shorts, no loose wires, battery is showing 26.6 volts...HELP! I never smelled any burning smell from any controller....so I'm not even sure the controller's the issue, but there's not much else....

 

[dumbass]

When you say all other wiring checks out what does that mean? Did you check that you have full power to the controller? Some have had a problem with bad connections from the pack to the controller under load. But I would think you would have the 5+ on your throttle lead.

The fact that you may have reversed the hall wires normally doesn't blow the controller. At least it never did when I screwed them up.

You can try disconnecting the brake cables and the stupid pas cable. They can sometimes screw things up. If they are the problem the bike should start when unpluged.

Bob

 

[TylerDurden]

I don't think there are halls on the brushed motor.

The older Curries had fuses in the battery case, maybe there is a blown fuse in the supply path.

Another thing to check is the pack connector - IIRC they have a spring loaded connector where the battery case latches to the rack. Check the voltage at the controller where the mains hit the PCB.

 

[dnmun]

was there a big spark when you connected the battery the first time? if there was no spark then, and you really reversed it, then it is likely you have an open fuse or bad connection and so all those controllers are ok.

 

[cleansteve]

I do have full voltage from the battery to the controller, 26.6 volts, checked right at the controller, and no loose connections....it's right at the battery (spring loaded) terminals where I'd initially reversed the polarity, and I got no spark or blown fuse or wiring.....I fixed that problem and triple checked all the wiring for continuity. I will try disconnecting the PAS and brake switch. When the bike was working, I always heard a "click" from the controller when initially energized (relay?), I'm not getting that ever, I'm thinking maybe not enough amps are flowing to the controller somehow, but not sure how that can be when my voltage is right. Motor checks out.... when connected directly to the battery pack it runs fine.....
Thanks for the quick replies, I'll keep you posted!

 

[dumbass]

I don't think there are halls on the brushed motor.

The older Curries had fuses in the battery case, maybe there is a blown fuse in the supply path.

Another thing to check is the pack connector - IIRC they have a spring loaded connector where the battery case latches to the rack. Check the voltage at the controller where the mains hit the PCB.

There are halls on the throttle/controller.

He said he had 10v to the motor so likely not fuse.

 

[dumbass]

I do have full voltage from the battery to the controller, 26.6 volts, checked right at the controller, and no loose connections....it's right at the battery (spring loaded) terminals where I'd initially reversed the polarity, and I got no spark or blown fuse or wiring.....I fixed that problem and triple checked all the wiring for continuity. I will try disconnecting the PAS and brake switch. When the bike was working, I always heard a "click" from the controller when initially energized (relay?), I'm not getting that ever, I'm thinking maybe not enough amps are flowing to the controller somehow, but not sure how that can be when my voltage is right. Motor checks out.... when connected directly to the battery pack it runs fine.....
Thanks for the quick replies, I'll keep you posted!

OK, so you feel you have full voltage all the way to the controller input. I've had 5 of those Currie controllers and have never heard a click when turning them on. Can you connect your meter as before and check the voltage when you turn the throttle? Would be interesting to see if you have that much voltage sag that it prevents the controller from working. Hold that thought....if the motor runs direct from the same pack then we now the pack is not saging unless you have bad connections but you said you check that.

I did have one crazy controlled that would not work when the throttle lights were connected. Currie replaced the controller for me. The throttle light connection is the 2 wire connector from the throttle. Basicly the throttle and controller should work with everything disconnected except the main input and the 3 wire hall connector. So try it with only those connection connected.


Bob

 

[cleansteve]

When you say all other wiring checks out what does that mean? Did you check that you have full power to the controller? Some have had a problem with bad connections from the pack to the controller under load. But I would think you would have the 5+ on your throttle lead.

The fact that you may have reversed the hall wires normally doesn't blow the controller. At least it never did when I screwed them up.

You can try disconnecting the brake cables and the stupid pas cable. They can sometimes screw things up. If they are the problem the bike should start when unpluged.

Bob

Thanks, Bob, it did turn out to be the brake switch.....I guess that's one switch I wouldn't think would shut down the whole works if not working right, but I would be wrong! I disconnected it and everything worked perfectly! I checked all 3 controllers (the original one, the 1st one I bought, and the 2nd one I bought) and they all worked perfectly, so I guess I have some spares now, since sending them back entails paying a 10-20% "restocking fee", plus shipping to return, plus I'm out my original shipping.....if anyone needs a Currie controller I have some available!!
Thanks again to everyone who responded......this forum saved me many days of unneeded stress and aggravation!!!!

 

[dumbass]

Glad you found the problem good work. Every now and then someone is looking to buy a 24v brushed controller. I would think you want to keep one of them and offer the 3rd for sale. You can post it in the sale forum. I would also look into correcting the brake switch problem. I know some feel it's just fine to ride without this protection but personally I like having it on both brakes. You don't have to but the brake handle from Currie. You can get them from EBay of several places that are commonly used suppliers on the forum.

Bob

 

[Haseeb2]

Hello,

This morning, I did the same thing the person who started this thread did. I was so excited when my new ping batteries came in the mail, so I charged both of them up, then tested one but hooked up the leads in reverse and incidentally it did not work. I then switched to the correct polarity to no avail. I then read this thread and unhooked my brake switches to no avail. I then unhooked my PAS and nothing happened. I then hooked the battery correctly and directly up to the motor and the red wire popped and smoked. Needless to say, I immediately disconnected in a fraction of a second. This is an ezip trailz 24V 10 Amps. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[dumbass]

Hello,

This morning, I did the same thing the person who started this thread did. I was so excited when my new ping batteries came in the mail, so I charged both of them up, then tested one but hooked up the leads in reverse and incidentally it did not work. I then switched to the correct polarity to no avail. I then read this thread and unhooked my brake switches to no avail. I then unhooked my PAS and nothing happened. I then hooked the battery correctly and directly up to the motor and the red wire popped and smoked. Needless to say, I immediately disconnected in a fraction of a second. This is an ezip trailz 24V 10 Amps. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

For the moment lets forget that you reversed the polarity and concentrate on your direct connecting the Ping pack to the motor. First off the Traiz motor is a bi-direction brushed motor. When direct connected to power you can connect in any polarity. I have direct connected to 12v packs up to 28v packs. Always runs. Actually, I have done considerable running at 50v on these motors.

My point is reversing the polarity may have damaged the controller but not the motor. It sounds like the motor is just frozen. Have you tried to turn the motor by hand? Obviously, your going to have to correct the motor before you can move on to the controller.

Your controller is only 10a? That must be a 250w motor because the 450 motor uses a 24v 35a controller.

Bob

 

[Haseeb2]

Oh no... Everything is at factory standard. I meant that the ping battery is 24V 10Amps. So perhaps my controller is toast I wish there was some way around ordering a new one. I guess that's just stupidity tax I have to pay.

I will move the wheel (motor) and test it later. If it works it's probably safe to assume it's the controller which is bad.

 

[dumbass]

Oh no... Everything is at factory standard. I meant that the ping battery is 24V 10Amps. So perhaps my controller is toast I wish there was some way around ordering a new one. I guess that's just stupidity tax I have to pay.

I will move the wheel (motor) and test it later. If it works it's probably safe to assume it's the controller which is bad.

I was just thinking again about what you said "I then hooked the battery correctly and directly up to the motor and the red wire popped and smoked." When you connect the motor wires to a hot battery you can expect the wire connection to spark. This is normal. As for the smoke, was it a lot or just a little? It could also be normal and only caused by the spark. Do you have a smaller battery 1 or the 12v batteries from the old SLA packs? IF so try that directly connected to the motor. Lets face it; if you already damaged the motor it can't hurt anything.

You should be able to do at least some testing of the controller before you purchase one.

Bob

 

[dumbass]

Just had another thought you can try. Your controller has a "high voltage cutoff". This cutoff is somewhere around 29.0v. So anything higher then this and the controller will not operate. It is possible that your fully charged pack is to high a voltage for the controller. So try checking the voltage to be sure it's below 29v. If you need to lower the pack voltage you can use an electric iron or even a light bulb. Don't worry about the irons voltage any voltage will do. Remember the iron will get hot. Leave the iron connected for 15 to 30 minutes max. That will burn off the top voltage for you. Then try connecting the pack again and see if it works.

Bob

 

[Haseeb2]

I tried that last night. I hooked the battery up to my iron for about 40 min and it got too hot to touch. I then hooked it up to my controller and nothing happened. I don't think it could be anything other than the controller. My old SLA batteries don't work either.

 

[docnjoj]

Replacing a brushed motor controller is easy and cheap. Any of the scooter supply houses have them. You may have to be careful with the 3 wire throttle connections, but the 2 wire power has only one right way and one backward way of hooking it up. Use a voltmeter to check polarity.
otherDoc

 

[RickySQL1]

I'm at my wit's end, my son's 2008 Ezip Trailz(standard 24 V SLA, brush motor) went dead a few weeks ago (no power, no lights light up on throttle)...in cleaning up the battery connections I accidentally reversed the polarity when putting it back together...of course, it didn't work, so I bought a new controller (Currie CT -2435-001) and, since I hadn't yet realized the polarity was reversed, I probably fried that one as well. Finally realized what I'd done, fixed the wiring issue, bought another controller AND throttle, and still no power or lights on the throttle. I've tested the output from controller to the throttle's battery gauge and I'm getting no voltage, but I do show 10 volts going to the motor. All wiring has been tested, everything's right, no shorts, no loose wires, battery is showing 26.6 volts...HELP! I never smelled any burning smell from any controller....so I'm not even sure the controller's the issue, but there's not much else....

Do you still have those spare controllers? The manufacturer has discontinued them and I need one.