Fibretech FlyPAN 2015 Dual Diag 12S

okp

100 kW
Joined
Oct 26, 2014
Messages
1,193
Location
Paris
Hi there,

I have been following you for quite a while, as a ready. But it's time to contribute to this big family of e skateboarders!

Well, after many (many) years skateboarding, snowboarding, kitesurfing... it's time for me to build/assemble my own electric skateboard. I have also been 5 years into RC (3D helicopters, cars...). This is now time to mix best of both worlds.

I was looking at evolve boards. They cost like 1000 euros delivered with a good combo between miles and speed. Well it's plug and play but I'm quite sure I can do something better, build myself with your advices.

Requirement : City cruising with a great top speed (30mph), good torque and of course under 9kgs. I have no CNC neither 3D printer available and would prefer to have a sleek finish (no big transparent box from wallmart to protect the electronics)

- Board : WeFunk Stealth Division made in Germany - what a beauty !

- Mechanical part : Alien Precision Caliber I and II Truck mount kit - Dual Diagonal Motor - 36T - 12T pulley - 8mm shaft

- Electronic part : Alien Power Systems - 4.4kw kit - 7s 10ah battery

- Trucks : Caliber II 184mm 50° Melon color

- Wheels : 76mm Abec Flywheel 78A

- Remote control : Nunchuck + wii receiver

Thanks a lot for your recommendations, I will keep this thread live - seems to be a pretty decent setup.
 
Welcome! Sounds like a solid setup. If you go with 44° trucks make sure the bracket still fits. For the ESC you might also go with vedders new ESC he is creating from scratch for skate purposes.

You probably feel safe even at high speeds on your board with urethane wheels, but maybe still consider small pneumatics for comfort and more terrain variety open for you. There are also kits for those around.
 
Thank you ! I'm also thinking on the protect case to protect the lipos and electronics. I wish could do something sleek, in black mat. I don't have a 3D printer and I contacted a company to make me the case... a bit expensive if it's done for only 2 pieces; I may do something in fiber polyester resin with a wood mold.

Well, I am not sure that this project would cost less than a stock bamboo evolve but what is sure it's that it will rip the ground !
 
for sure : Paris !

The alien system is not adequate for drop through, so I plan to get a top mount board. I want to keep it light, so it will not be my loaded tantien for the moment.

I found this landyatchz board that could be perfect. I think 36 should be the good size, 34 would be too short for a good stance

Top Speed 36
http://www.daddiesboardshop.com/landyachtz-top-speed-34-deck

or the bustin eq

http://www.easyriser.fr/deck-bustin-eq-2014.html

or the earthwing

https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/completes/30371/Earthwing-Hoopty-36-75-Longboard-Skateboard-Custom-Complete.html

or last but not least arbor

http://arborcollective.com/skateboards/products/highground/

any advices on the board choice? at this time I think the top speed 36 is my favorite.
 
thanks for your feedback matty !

so my final choice would be either
- bustin eq black limba 36 : http://www.easyriser.fr/deck-bustin-eq-2014.html
- landyatchz top speed 36,75 : http://www.easyriser.fr/deck-landyachtz-top-speed-36-5-2013.html

I really don't know which one to get, maybe the black limba would add a little flex to the game... and save some grams ... really dunno, both shapes seems to be the same with a little drop on the limba but no impact regarding the alien drive system (at least I assume)
 
hi there,

some fresh news. I have contacted my longboard shop and they told me that the best choice for this project is to go for the Bustin EQ. With 76mm wheels, I may had wheelbites on the Landy/Topspeed or I had to go with at least 1cm risers... and I don't want the board to be too high from the ground. Plus, Bustin seems to be lighter due to the hollowcore, well some grams, but why not saving some grams when possible !

first post has been updated with some news on the electronics & mechanical setup
 
hey, some news ! got the Alien drive mechanical pieces, just beautiful engineering. Fast shipping from ADS. The covers in ABS are also really well done. Carbon look is neat. The wii receiver and nunchuck should be here tomorrow morning (from DIY)

I am now waiting impatiently for the full electronics packages including 10ah battery from Alien Power Systems.
 
some fresh news. Just did a really short test. This is a dragster. Believe me. It weights 6kg. Here are some photos as well as the eagletree logs. I need to do the wiring and so on, don't pay attention to that. I just wanted to do a raw test before finishing assembly. The OSD is also live EagleTree. That's nice to be able to get raw exports of your sessions. There's no power management here, just boost and ride a small square place. This is what you see on diagrams.

I still don't know, but compared to an evolve board (the carbon for example), the brake is not working that well. It's configured at 40% on the ESC Maybe I have to tune the ESC prog.

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okp said:
I still don't know, but compared to an evolve board (the carbon for example), the brake is not working that well. It's configured at 40% on the ESC Maybe I have to tune the ESC prog.
I use the setting 100 percent on the brakes for twin 150 A 6374 motors and it works well.
 
thanks - will do so. This thing is called a dragster. Both motors are 50mm. One weird thing is that sometimes (board up) only one motors works, then I push up and down on the throttle (Y axis of the nunuchk... and both motor works, maybe some kind of synchronization issues.

Compared to a evolve carbon, the start of motors if less progressive. Maybe this is due to the nunchuck sensitivity.
 
Hi okp,

Depending on what version of firmware that you have loaded to your Wiiceiver.

I would set your neutral point on your joystick. You can do this by doing the following:
1. turning on your board.
2. hold the C button and turn on your controller and wait about 5 secs.
3. your motors should both start spinning and once this happens this means your neutral position is now set.
4. turn off your board.
5. power on your system again (board then controller, afterwards shouldn't matter which one is first.)

Test your throttle and your throttle joystick and your joystick movement should now be much more precise. You should only need to do this once when pairing with a Wii Nunchuck receiver + transmitter. If you change either or (transmitter/receiver) you will need to re-configure the neutral position.

The Wii Nunchuck on the Wii will normally set the neutral position first thing. All Wii Nunchucks neutral position are usually different. The new firmware does this automatically which you can find here - https://github.com/jaustindavid/wiiceiver/releases. You can flash it with an arduino if you have one.
 
Geez, I just wet my pants. :mrgreen: Great choice, I always thought that the Mach1 would be the best looking deck for an Eboard, this just confirms it. I love those gas pedals. Awesome build.
 
Thanks. What I like about the mach 3 is also the home made design and the ability to discuss with the builder/shaper. Really friendly nice guy.

@torque: thanks I don't know which firmware I have (I got the stuff from DIYskateboard/you) but I just did what you told me:
- power on nunchuck
- push C and keep it pushed
- power on deck
- stop after 5/8 seconds

restart.

both motors are now synchronized and more smooth. thanks man.
 
new session. This thing is a DRAGSTER. I can literally downhill in Paris.... but in the flat ! The deck is really perfect. Wefunk nailed it. Awesome. The init of the nunchuck worked perfectly.

I programmed the ESC for a 80% break.. unusable. It's like I was rolling on a little rock. Compared to the evolve carbon; evolve has such a smooth slow down.. So, unless I missed it, 80% break is not usable. I have to put it to a smaller values. If anyone has a clue...

I may have to modify the belt tension, but man. APS & ADS totally made it. Electronic is really great and the mechanical parts from ADS... is really pleasant. By the way, I have given a lot of people your contact info (website). They were just amazed to see the board in real.

Otherwise, here's my 2h session log

1416758075-sessiontoday.jpg


enjoy
 
that Evolve battery is a time bomb waiting to short out and burn down your house or apartment building. they should be avoided at all costs. we discussed this on the other thread about the Evolve boards which the guy changed the name on to "nothing" after Evolve gave him his money back. AW saved it on the 2014 battery disasters thread.
 
yeah, I have read about that. Sometimes this can happen, I will contact my local distributor, he is a really friendly guy which pay huge attention to its client and its builds I am sure he will find out. I have nothing to deal with evolve, but wherever you put lipos, you can have issues.
 
no, you do not understand.

that battery was modified by the guys who built that board and the modification was a major design mistake because the guys who did it are not competent in building battery packs.

your impression about lipo is wrong too. lipo itself is not that risky but what they did made it a fire hazard and the fires it has already started are now being covered up by the people who sell them.

a criminal act imo and should be investigated by authorities to prevent more fires.

you obviously did not read that thread or how they are covering it up.
 
Using the Wiiceiver. You may want to lower your brakes to where you can jam your throttle down sort of like a drag brake. It works a lot better than having it a higher % for brakes and you have to lean back when braking.

Then when braking I simply just tap the brakes.

Usually 70% works well. Not sure, what firmware version you are using for your APS ESC but CarLV_UV43 works well for me.

Also when braking you do need a bit of momentum otherwise the brakes aren't strong enough if the motors aren't rolling. I imagine Evolve's works slightly better as it is sensored.
 
Nice photo. Yeah, try 60-70% brake with the UV40. You just want a lighter brake that won't throw you off the board that way you can tap the brakes to slow down. Since with the Wii Nunchuck it's easy to bring the joystick to the complete bottom for brakes. Just enough so if you accidentally jam it all the way down you won't fall off and just keep tapping it to brake.

Board looks great. The only downside with the setup is that if you rode in rain it would completely demolish the look of your board with all the wetness and gunk/dirt. My board now gets dirty and nasty. I plan on using an aluminum enclosure for all components with waterproof gland joint for the motor wires. Hopefully, it will keep rain/water/dust/gunk out. So after a rain ride, I could simply just wipe it all down and not pick leaves, dirt off of the board. Plus I also get a ton of bird doodoo all over my board so have to do a wipe down often. LOL :mrgreen:
 
excellent ! that should be OK, I need to close some open areas due to the fact that the enclosure used for the electronics is a external hard drive 3,5 box, so I get a some dust but that's marginal. I don't ride in the rain, neither in the water so the board should last quite a long time :)
 
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