First build Q100H

J

JohnDeux

1 mW
Joined
May 8, 2015
Messages
15
Hey greetings from Sweden!

Now I have got the idé of building my first e-bike. And I would like to have your advise.

Im thinking of buying an older bike with no gears and just a traditional padel-break. And then install a Xiongda 2-speed motor on it.
Will it be a problem with such an old bike with no gears?
What do u prefer the Rear or the Front kit?
And do u have any suggestions about batteries?
Budget for batteries 200-300 €.
Budget for the whole build about 500 €.

Pls help.

Best Regards,
 
You can't have a back-pedal brake with a rear motor, so your only option is a front one. The 36v one is OK. The 48v one is 33% more powerful. You can use a 09 flat bottle battery that you can get from BMSBattery. If you have enough money, get one with Panasonic cells. You should also get a oair of their torque arms with 10mm x 12mm slot.

You can put the controller in a toolbag behind/under the seat or in one of the small triangular ones that go at the back of your frame triangle.
 
K, then Im not sure if im going to buy a bike with back-pedal brake. I read http://electricbikereport.com/electric-bike-motor-comparison/ and Rear kit seems to be a better choice.

Im thinking of buying the kit from Xiongda's own website. http://www.xiongdamotor.cn/en/index.html. Where did u buy your kit from?

I read in some thread here of some markings on the motors, markings depending of what wheel size u were gonna use. Is that something I need to ask about?
I will put the motor on a 26" rim.

So to get a full conversion kit from the supplier I need to buy the Rear Kit, a Controller and a LCD display?
Have I missed something?
 
Xiongda will supply you with a motor, controller, PAS and LCD. You have to ask for a throttle and brakes if you want them. The standard kit has a maximum speed of about 32 km/h in high gear for a 26" wheel.

A torque arm is necessary for security, but you have to get it from another supplier like BMSBattery, where you can get your battery drom too.
 
k, thank you for the help! I will place my orde on the Xiongda this week. It took a while for the company to answer my mail.

If there shipping time is correct, it will arrive in about 2 weeks.

Therer is no cheeper alternitive for the battery?
Or will I regret myself?

Someone who has tried and import any batteri from china?

Ty again / Fredrik
 
JohnDeux said:
Therer is no cheeper alternitive for the battery?
Or will I regret myself?

Someone who has tried and import any batteri from china?
Click to expand...
There's a few hundred (or thousand) posts about that sort of thing, if you read around the forums. Lots and lots and lots of information about good and bad, but you have to take the time to read.
 
There's a few hundred (or thousand) posts about that sort of thing, if you read around the forums. Lots and lots and lots of information about good and bad, but you have to take the time to read.
Click to expand...

Ofc, just checking if some of you had any experienc about it to share right away. Would spare me some time. But reading is fun and I will maybe learn someting;)
 
I get most of my batteries from BMSbattery in China. They've all worked perfectly. Some were better than expected. I've had about 15 from them altogether. Their o9 bottle battery with Panasonic cells is the perfect partner for your Xiongda. It comes as 11.6ah 48v or 14.5ah 36v. Here's the 36v one:

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/682-36v145ah-bottle-09-panasonic-battery-charger-battery.html
 
I get most of my batteries from BMSbattery in China. They've all worked perfectly. Some were better than expected. I've had about 15 from them altogether. Their o9 bottle battery with Panasonic cells is the perfect partner for your Xiongda. It comes as 11.6ah 48v or 14.5ah 36v. Here's the 36v one:

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/68 ... ttery.html
Click to expand...

K ty, then I Will try to order from BMS.


I was Reading almost everything in the "2 speedway motor" Thread you started u stared in Mars 2014 . And it got me thinking.

You did suggest that people that didn't was lazy/heavy had no big use of the Xiongda. And I took a quick look at the 2 one gear systems that u suggested.

I weight 65kg and the bike I'm gonna convert a bicycle excetly like this one (wheels 26").

http://stockholm-stad.annonsera.se/crescent-orion_0002-51263.html

I'm gonna use it to work it's about 4km and to work it's just downhill all the way. And home, yee the opposite;)

I live in Sweden and I at least want it to look legal. Our rules are PAS, 250w and max 25km/h.

The Xiongda set up I was going to buy was the 36v rear motor for 26" rim, PAS and 36v controller with manuall switch for H, L and A and battery BMS 14.5ah 36v.

So my question is, what different will I get if I go for the Bafang BPM rear kit instead?
Banfang kit motor 36v 350w (can just find Bafang 500w kits) PAS and 36v controller with the same battery?

And what's the different between the Bafang BPM and the Bpm2?

Ty again,
Fredrik
 
The 36v Xiongda would be a lot slower than the a BPM because in high gear it has less torque. In low gear,;it gets double torque, but only half speed. A 350w BPM will have enough torque for you at only 65kg.

I think the best kit for you would be a 260 rpm 36v Q100H with the 36v 09 Panasonic bottle battery with the 20 amp controller included in it. The whole kit is plug and play. It's very light and stealthy, and it still gives a lot of torque, which should be more than what you need for your weight. The Xiongda is better for heavy people or heavy loads.

The BPM2 is a later development of the BPM, so slightly better made. It has a screw-on sideplate that makes it harder to service. Some versions of it have the moulded 9 pin connector ans some have an internal speed sensor.
 
Now I have place and order for the Q100H 260 rpm and the battery + controller kit that you suggested. Now I just need to wait for the shipment. And if I get more taste for e-bikes I think I will order and test one Xiongda kit for the next prjoect.

K, just thought is was weird that some Bpm2 motors where cheaper than some of the ones just called bpms.
 
Hey again!

Im looking for a rim and spokes to install my Q100H in.

The Q100H I bought has not alot of torque what I have understand, so maybe 2mm standard spokes will be enough?

Alot of companys in Sweden are selling complete sets. But it is really hard to find just a rim and spokes...

Do u guys have any suggestions? Have anyone bought anything to recommend?

//

Fredrik
 
I use these ones that you can probably find on your local Ebay.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=191205901012&alt=web

The Q100H has high torque for its size, but it's nothing compared with a Bafang BPM at 30 amps for which cheap rims are still adequate.. Any double walled rim should be OK. Use 14g spokes (2mm). One or two cross pattern is OK.
 
JohnDeux said:
Hey again!

Im looking for a rim and spokes to install my Q100H in.

The Q100H I bought has not alot of torque what I have understand, so maybe 2mm standard spokes will be enough?

Alot of companys in Sweden are selling complete sets. But it is really hard to find just a rim and spokes...

Do u guys have any suggestions? Have anyone bought anything to recommend?

//

Fredrik
Click to expand...

2mm is probably fine, but 2.3mm/2mm single butted is probably ideal. Sapim strong is an example of these spokes, I also recommend using their brass sapim polyax nipples as well, these are better for higher spoke angles. Personally I wouldn't go with more than single cross lacing pattern.

It's hard to make a suggestion on which rim for you to buy, rims come in a lot of different flavors and uses. Sun rhyno lite is probably a good bet, use as wide of a tire as your frame can fit. What rim you can use is also pretty dependent upon a rim to tire width ratio. http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tire_dimensions There is a graph towards the bottom of this page that gives some sort of range to consider.

Don't forget to use toque arms, doctorbass torque arms are my recommendation. https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=29129
 
Now the Kit has arrived from Bms battery.

* Q100H

thought it would arrive with no rim and spokes. But when I got it they had installed it in a rim :O
and for some reason it had the shit luck that they had installed it in a 26" rim so the work was done.

* A 36V14.5Ah battery pack included a 20A sine wave controller and a S180 charger.

* One S-LCD3, One Thumb throttle, A pair of Brake Grip, One PAS And Waterproof Easy Assemble Wires.

The pair of Brake grips that was included, do they "cuts out the controller" or do they "engage regenerative braking" ?

My problem is, on my original brake grips the gear tumb trottles are mounted and cant be removed. So I need to buy new Gear trottles, or try to fit them all on the handlebar.

Is the Brake grips in the e-bike kit very important?
 
Q100H has no regen, it freewheels internally as most of the geared hub motors. Together with the external (7-speed for example) freewheel, it is a "double clutch" system. Brake switch shuts down the accelerator. Controller is still "on" but does nothing. If the mosfets short or MCU crashes, you will have no use of it.
Is the Brake grips in the e-bike kit very important?
Click to expand...
No, I used them on my first ebike but not on my other two ebikes. Consinder a ON/OFF kill switch in case throttle shorts during rain or some unexpected/random youtube moment like that.
kill-switch.jpg


You can order your rims (36H) and spokes (13G) here (they ship to Sweden): http://26bikes.com/shop/parts/rims-and-rim-tapes/dirt-street/prod/ex-dh26
 
It's advisable to have at least one brake switch for safety and convenience. You can get by without one. You could get a independent shifter on the left side, which wouldn't cost much, then you could use one of the supplied brake levers for the back brake.

When you fit the wheel, you'll find that the rim won't be central. You need to go round the rim loosening all the spokes on the brake side and tightening them on the gears side half a turn at a time. It'll take about 3 complete turns of each spoke to bring the rim to the centre. Then, you have to true the rim and properly tension the spokes. If you can't do that, you need to get a bike shop to do it. Make sure that you have the disc brake installed and working (if you have one) before starting that activity. You'll need one extra 12mm washer on the axle on the didc side to make the disc line up with the caliper.

The only other thing you need to do is make a motor extension cable. The one they provide is too long. You can cut it, adjust it to the right length and then re-join it by soldering the ends directly and protecting each wire with heat-shrink.
 
No, I used them on my first ebike but not on my other two ebikes. Consinder a ON/OFF kill switch in case throttle shorts during rain or some unexpected/random youtube moment like that.
Click to expand...

Haha, think I will use one of the brake grips the sent me to avoid any funny youtube clips. Or if I just take the electric switch out from the brake grip and make a seperate buttom.

You can order your rims (36H) and spokes (13G) here (they ship to Sweden): http://26bikes.com/shop/parts/rims-and- ... od/ex-dh26
Click to expand...

Ty for the advice, but they had allredy installed the motor with rim and spokes from Bms battery. I didn't payed them any extra what a know anyway :p. So I guess I was lucky.


The only other thing you need to do is make a motor extension cable. The one they provide is too long. You can cut it, adjust it to the right length and then re-join it by soldering the ends directly and protecting each wire with heat-shrink.
Click to expand...

Yes the one they provided was very long, but I don' really know if I want to hide the cables in the frame or not yet. So for now I will make a termporary sulotion and then make it shorter when I know how I want it. Will there be any probelm with the long cable more then anoying?

I think I will have my e-bike running this weekend for testing. I just need some spare-parts for the bottom bracket, the bearing cups was made of plastic and I could not anscrew them without they got destroyd. Even though I bought the right tools for it...

Something I learnd allready about bikes is that nothing is standard, not a single thread and a bunch of special tools...

Do u guys know what they mean with the paramter 5 setting on the LCD display?
They say for
36V battery, LVC=30V, P5/3.77=1.5
Click to expand...

But in the manuall they say
battery characteristics, ordinary 24V lithium is generally is 4-11, 36V lithium is between 5_15
Click to expand...

What does LVC and 3.77 stands for?

Do u have any more usefull information about any other LcD parameters it's appreciated.

Ty again!

Fredrik
 
Don't worry about P5. It doesn't do anything useful. It's just a damping factor for the battery voltage display in the LCD. It's best not to change the LCD parameters. The most I ever do is check the wheel size and change the km to miles. Sometimes I restrict to 15.5 mph.

You know that one of the sides of the BB has a left hand thread?

The longer motor wire will work OK. There will be a very slight power drop down it, but not enough to worry about.
 
Don't worry about P5. It doesn't do anything useful. It's just a damping factor for the battery voltage display in the LCD. It's best not to change the LCD parameters. The most I ever do is check the wheel size and change the km to miles. Sometimes I restrict to 15.5 mph.
Click to expand...

K, ty then I don't need to worry about that.

You know that one of the sides of the BB has a left hand thread?
Click to expand...

Yes, but unfortunately I discovered that when I tried to unscrew it the wrong way and i destroyd it because it was made of plastic. I read about it and I think it's called English threading.

The longer motor wire will work OK. There will be a very slight power drop down it, but not enough to worry about.
Click to expand...

K, great. I bought a sondering kit today for the shortening. But will not do that untill next week. I will put it all together tomorrow and try it on the road. I will tell u how it went.

Ty for the help again!
 
wineboyrider said:
Alan B said:
Might want to get this non Xiongda discussion moved out of this thread...
Click to expand...
Why?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the correction.

Your right, didn't notice he was the OP, he should change the title of this thread. Thought for a moment this was the long thread on the Xiongda motor, but this is a new build thread, so it would be better to change the title to fit the build.
 
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