FLIPSKY new 20s 100A tiny controller (vesc based)

lqbweb said:
But the UART has a 5V line as well right?
Click to expand...

TTL level can be 3.3V or 5V. STM32 @3.3V, so 3.3V to be used, giving 5V can damage the processor if the connected I/O is not 5V safe.

lqbweb said:
Thanks for your support. Do you know where to buy a good PAS that works? I am having some problems finding one actually.
Click to expand...

I am on the other side side of the globe, so my input is probably not going to help you, others might be able to help you.

lqbweb said:
It is not clear to me by reading the PR in GitHub if 3 pin PAS will work on 5.3. I guess it is better to just find one quadratic one.
Click to expand...

3 pin PAS will not work on 5.3, unless code is modified as per the code snippet seen in that PR
 
Barncat said:
.... I'll be swapping in a 60A MEGA fuse tomorrow which is better suited to this setup per mxlemming's tip. And the wiring in pics above is largely temporary for testing purposes...
Click to expand...

Bring spares and tools just in case. Downsizing a fuse like this gets tricky and you could easily blow one from extended use. If it doesn't blow in an extended ride, check it for discoloration and signs of melting.
 
Anyone know what size the JST ports are coming off of the controller? I thought they were listed as 2mm pitch pins but caliper is reading 1.5 and another 2mm pitch pin doesnt line up.
 
Hello,

Does anyone of you vesc gurus know how to hack a power switch onto that device ? I know some use relay switches directly on the battery lines, but this is not very clean and can be quite dangerous.
The idea would be to cut one of the traces, and just solder in a latching button. Ideally using the power-return line from displays, so you can use the display switch.
Where should I look on that board ? Maybe just before the power led ?

Thanks a lot,

qwerkus
 
You can use a "20s anti-spark" switch. A few companies sell them. It's basically a bank of mosfets activated by a small on/off button.

Others use the xt90s and modify it into a loop key
 
jaykup said:
You can use a "20s anti-spark" switch. A few companies sell them. It's basically a bank of mosfets activated by a small on/off button.

Others use the xt90s and modify it into a loop key
Click to expand...

Thank you for your reply, though no good options there for me. mosfet based relays will always fail at some point, and loop keys are quite the hassle even though I agree that they are the only clean and 100% safe (if combined with anti spark xt90) way to cut high power line. I don't get why most vesc design don't have power switches; do ppl just leave their esk8 on all the time ?
 
What is the typical recommendation for cooling ESCs? Stick the biggest heatsink you can find on the mosfet rail with good thermal paste and make sure the heat sink is in good airflow?

Makes you wonder how hard you could push this thing with the right thermals

I saw people talked about mineral oil or that really expensive 3M stuff but it's hard to keep from leaking. Sort of a main draw for EVs is not worrying about it dripping oil in my back seat
 
MorbidlyObeseKoala said:
What is the typical recommendation for cooling ESCs? Stick the biggest heatsink you can find on the mosfet rail with good thermal paste and make sure the heat sink is in good airflow?

Makes you wonder how hard you could push this thing with the right thermals

I saw people talked about mineral oil or that really expensive 3M stuff but it's hard to keep from leaking. Sort of a main draw for EVs is not worrying about it dripping oil in my back seat
Click to expand...


If it helps I can show what I did

disc1.jpg
fix current path
ffg.jpg
disc3.jpg
cordless drill cut holes in heatsink. screws fasten mosfets, but they stick out
Fill gap with thermal paste
disc4.jpg
tf23.jpg
Zip ties are temporary but works fine from experience

Cheap heatsink
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32817497436.html

Video (From HUD - temp MOS = ESC temp). It is accurate
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItzcSAl6Ry0&t

Difference is my old 75100 + 52 volt 50A battery setup would reach 85C within 15-30 minutes.
This mod 72v 75Abattery/110A phase amps does not over heat. Max temp was 50C (motor heats up first). cools down instantly to 40C. Most of the time it stays around 35C!
 
Nice work. Seems like at least that blue board can handle the power (I have the slightly earlier white version but from the esk8 forum, it seems like it can handle most of the what the blue one can).

Looks like you also siliconed the case and the exit for the wires. Was that just to protect from dust/water?
 
MorbidlyObeseKoala said:
Looks like you also siliconed the case and the exit for the wires. Was that just to protect from dust/water?
Click to expand...

yeah the cable exit rubber seal is sort of useless against water, so i thought why not just seal the gaps. 2 minutes of work :wink:
i think this controller didnt have any seals between aluminum panels(any aluminum case normally has it). flipsky :roll:
so i siliconed them too.

might be difficult to take it apart later, but still doable unlike a fully potted controller

20220602_050539.jpg

this is how its supposed to be done from factory
 
Ianhill said:
Anyone ordering the alloy pcb 72100 ?
Click to expand...
Im thinking seriously about it. I had several of the origional white PBC versions and I have a V2 blue PCB. Absolutly impressed with the V2 with FW 5.3. Im drawing 1500W -2500W for extended periods with bursts of up to 3KW. 13s6p on a derentalized ninebot max escooter with stock motor. Field weakening is a game changer in ESC world, works to basically defeat the RPM/Voltage/BEMF limit that exsists without FW. I set mine to 50A. Difference in performance is stunning, on the stock FW prior to VESC FW5.3 I could only achive 23-maybe 25mph with fresh charge and wind to my back, with everything the same but FW5.3 with field weakening enabled I can easily reach 37-45mph... in fact, and this is gonna probably be contriversial due to the risk of sound unbelieveable Ive reached 50mph multiple times, yes mph, logged via GPS , backed by VESC tools RPM motor pole/wheel diameter (254mm) method. Ill gladly post a link to logs and my config backup. I probably would have a difficult time believing it as well figuring its a error.

II didnt do much for cooling other than disassemble and repaste incase it was assembled the first day back to work after chinese new years, I could definatly invest some more time figuring out a way to add more thermal mass because on warm days I will reach 85c after about 10 minutes of constant aggressive use where Id say I average between 1500W-2000W. I can use a bit of throttle managment/dicipline to lower to resonable temps indefinitely but its so much fun zooming around I find it difficult to do! Lol!

I want to build another scooter, I have a brand new white PCB v1 but Id really like to try the new version with SMD FETs /integrated heatsink.
 
Hello everyone complete noob when it comes to vesc's, I have a bbshd and I'm looking for more power. I actually remember finding out about this controller way before I even got the bbshd. I've thought about shunt modding the bbshd's stock controller to get 45a but I'm already running into temp concerns with the stock controller at 30a so a external controller sounds like a good thing.

I did a quick relook though this thread and it seems that if you update the firmware to 5.3 you unlock field weakening which I would want, and possibly pas? I would want both of these on my bike so this is pretty much a deal breaker if I can't get these. I plan to only push around 45ba 90pa on my 14s li-ion battery. Should be a good bump in power over the stock controller (which even now I only see 29.5a very rarely and it seems to stick to 28a even with the flash). I only considered using this controller after finding someone on youtube that has done it with the bbshd but they didn't include any info except for a riding video so I'm left with questions. wiring it should be easy enough right?

And what do people use in terms of a display? I think they were using their phone but I'm not a huge fan of this. Would I be able to use my stock 860c display or maybe an eggrider considering that's what lunacycles uses? Thanks everyone for the help!
 
Hi Bathchris, i have two of the early white board ones that im yet to install in a bike with a 3kw ipm like the new ones ones in the lightning rods kit and a solar pump.

I'm curious what motor you are using with your scoot do you have some photos and specs of the motor in your scoot ?

Hi Bengy22,

Ages ago i chopped a vesc in to a bosch middrive that had a blown controller and got it to work with the inbuilt torque sensor, there is a whole thread and heaps of photos doing it to a bbshd should be a piece of cake and iirc some of them are an IPM rotor with the magnets inside a laminated steel stack rotor and as such should respond excellently to MTPA and field weakening and work far beyiond their normal opperating range with the standard dumb controller its easy to set them up to start well sensorless and you can get a davega dispaly that is vesc compatible and some new bms boards that are chargeonly and use can bus to talk to the vesc and the display about battery levels to allow a sensible cell level LVC without needing a whole heap of discharge fets on the bms

bosch vesc middrive thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=93831

install and ntc temp sensor in the bbshd windings and you will never kill it and keep the phase amps similar to the stock controller to preserve the plastic gear and let your gears and the field weakening overspeed give you more power on larger rear sprokets so you dont overload the chain and put a smaller one up front thats how to get low wear rates out of overpowered bbshd or they eat all the chains and sprokets horribly fast

go for it feel free to quiz me if you need any advice
 
Im glad to hear theres some success happening with the 72100 it seems like a good buy for most applications.

The fet mod would be nice if a few pics could be shown, i understand the pcb is alloy so air gun only id of thought ?
 
Louiss said:
Unfortunately, I didn't take photos from the build process, but nothing special. The PCB is an ordinary two-layer FR4, the FETs are through hole in TO220 package.
One set of six FETs is from the top side as it was and the second set of six FETs is from the bottom side flipped 180deg.
For mod no need any special tools, only a good strong soldering iron. It's easy to do.
Click to expand...

Ive not seen the guts of one but it sounds like a no brainer the way your explaining very potent compact design with the bonus of water cooling, im in ill be ordering one.

What fet did you use by the way was it AOT410L ?
 
Thanks for letting us know.
Nice work on the heatsink i gonna have to simplify that a bit somehow with stock parts but the pics help alot thanks.

Out of interest have you swapped the caps for each phase they look alot larger in your image, flipskys image they look to be withing the case maybe smd ?
 
Ianhill said:
Anyone ordering the alloy pcb 72100 ?
Click to expand...

I got one in. Mosfets and cooling are a HUGE improvement over the old one. Motor detection is better as well. Custom firmware needed to run above 72v, and motor detection values are closer with the custom firmware as well.

The aluminum PCB version uses surface mount HUAYI HYG015N10NS1TA - HSOF-8, 100V, 380A, 1.2 mΩ
The old V201/V202 version uses through hole MDP10N027 - TO-220, 100v, 120A, 2.5 mΩ

Thermal performance at 80 phase amps, bench test, no air flow, 30V, 80-80 160kv motor. VESC firmware starts reducing current at 77.5C by default.

a1de80bc7adb061fecac10a406adea14dd75e305.png
 
Nice test jaykup, I have one of the V201/V202 versions(have not opened it yet to see which), I am guessing V202 because was able to update to standard 75300 firmware(untested on actual motor, and I disabled the phase filtering)

I am aware of the design by user ypl https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=113445&start=250#p1700688

I just re-read the thread from the beginning to try and answer this question:

Does anyone know if the new alloy pcb 75100 is an original Flipsky design?
 
Jaykup, ☆

Thanks for the info the alloy pcb version is what ive ordered i believe hopefully i get the low rds fets they seem fine to leave alone plus id need to buy an airgun and louis rossmann amounts of flux.

I'd rather not play if i have to leave my time to fabrication, wiring finesse etc.
 
Hello guys, I’m trying to use a Flipsky 75100.
At the beginning everything seemed to be working fine, I was able to detect the motor parameters, the hall sensors, and to spin the motor through the keyboard.

However, when I tried to apply some load (10/15 A), the VESC entered in reboot mode! I read that it was regarding the 5v 1A BEC!

Does anyone faced the same problem?
 
Space said:
Hello guys, I’m trying to use a Flipsky 75100.
At the beginning everything seemed to be working fine, I was able to detect the motor parameters, the hall sensors, and to spin the motor through the keyboard.

However, when I tried to apply some load (10/15 A), the VESC entered in reboot mode! I read that it was regarding the 5v 1A BEC!

Does anyone faced the same problem?
Click to expand...

Yes, I had this issue. It was frustrating as hell when connected via USB but after connecting a NRF Bluetooth I no longer had the issue. Never happened during use, and Ive used it a lot.
 
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