FLIPSKY new 20s 100A tiny controller (vesc based)

[harrisonpatm]

Here's a reductive question. All the programming features of this controller sound great, for those who can and want to do that. For others.... if I connect a hub motor, hall, a throttle and a battery, would I be good to go?

The attraction of this controller is its size, price, and capability. If I can learn more later about all the customization features, that'd be cool, but how much of a plug-and-play controller would this be?

I've watched some of Flipsky's videos on programming and setup, which look doable, but I'm wondering if it's just because they make it look so easy

 

[Braddudya]

Here's a reductive question. All the programming features of this controller sound great, for those who can and want to do that. For others.... if I connect a hub motor, hall, a throttle and a battery, would I be good to go?

The attraction of this controller is its size, price, and capability. If I can learn more later about all the customization features, that'd be cool, but how much of a plug-and-play controller would this be?

I've watched some of Flipsky's videos on programming and setup, which look doable, but I'm wondering if it's just because they make it look so easy

No it wouldn't work at all.

You must run a motor config and/or manually tweak settings and you must run the input config. In just out of the box form it will not respond to any throttle inputs. In my case it won't even run the configs until I go in and change the maximum voltage setting because I am over the stock limit which put it in an error mode.

Additionally the wiring is not plug and play with anything in the ebike world. It is all 2mm jst plugs. So you do need to do some rewiring. It isn't that big of a deal though. I converted the plugs over to fit my motor in 15 minutes or so.

The advanced control strategies like FOC cannot just plug and play as I understand it. It's not really the fault of VESC. It is also a controller that can run anywhere from 12v-72v and run any motor from a pinky sized RC out runner to a QS138. There is no way to get that flexibility and features without having to play with some settings.

 

[harrisonpatm]

You must run a motor config and/or manually tweak settings and you must run the input config. In just out of the box form it will not respond to any throttle inputs. In my case it won't even run the configs until I go in and change the maximum voltage setting because I am over the stock limit which put it in an error mode.

How involved is that? Back to my original theory, is it possible to get a hub motor to run off a twist throttle, without hours on the computer?

Additionally the wiring is not plug and play with anything in the ebike world. It is all 2mm jst plugs. So you do need to do some rewiring. It isn't that big of a deal though.

I agree on that point, I don't mind soldering any connector to any connector, I guess I was too reductive in my questioning. "Plug and play" in the sense of, ready from the box. "No" is a fine answer, I just wanted to know how much time in front of a computer and YouTube tutorials is involved.

I liked your other build thread on your budget pit bike at least, showing that its at least possible to get a small (emphasis on small) motorbike running with the 75200.

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

What motor would you use?
Vesc software (firmware?) is super simple nowadays. You can be up n rolling in very little time.

 

[Braddudya]

How involved is that? Back to my original theory, is it possible to get a hub motor to run off a twist throttle, without hours on the computer?

I swapped from the 75100 to the 75200 last night. Once it was wired up and connected I started over fresh and it probably took 10 minutes to get it programmed. If I was really focused I could probably do it in 3! The basics are very easy once you get used to the process. The first time probably took me a few hours to get things figured out.

I am glad you enjoyed my build. It still isnt quite done but its coming together.

 

[harrisonpatm]

It's good enough. What I like is that you mentioned (can't remember whether it was this thread or the other) that while other controllers might be "better," this one has a lot of pros and might be the future of ESC.

How about battery current? The 75200 has a 200A rating, I'm assuming it's phase current. With the relatively thin battery wires it comes with, I can't imagine it can handle much more than 100a, so again, it seems like using it to run anything larger than your pitbike wouldn't be a very good idea.

 

[Ianhill]

10kw seems to be the safe number if flipskys tests are legit, for the price its decent hobbyist controller you wont be maxing out large motors but its will spin them up no issue ive spun a qs138 70h and 10kw wont be a new record set it can take 3× that for a short burst but it will get it to singing if its on a light enough ride like a pitbike etc.

I had a kuberg with 12kw stock and that would spin the rear wheel the controller on them cost over 4× the price and factory locked up just for 2kw extra power makes this controller look excellent value.

 

[Braddudya]

I just got the Bluetooth running (they had the wrong wire lead plugged into the port) so I can test my peak wattage but I know I am running 150a phase and it really moves well considering the budget of this project. I will report back tonight about the peak measured wattage.

I would not recommend the 75100 for anything with performance in mind. It is more like a 30-50a rated controller, maybe less. The 75200 I would recommend for ANY ebike project that is below 6kW. If I were building a 1.5kW ebike I would also just use this controller as it gives you room to grow. I will still need to do more testing to see what kind of wattage is realistic for sustained riding but so far I suspect my cheap motor will be the first to overheat.

 

[Braddudya]

Just tested it again with the Bluetooth and it tickles 7kW at 150a which is probably dangerous with my cheapo motor and my 3D printed motor mount :lol: thats over 9hp mounted entirely with plastic and melt set threaded inserts!

Feeling dangerous I went ahead and bumped it to 200a for a couple of sprints and I wasnt able to hold my phone to get a kW estimate. I need to figure out how to do the data logging, just haven't tried to yet. It definitely seemed much too powerful for my current setup and I dont think it would last long. The motor was not hot but quite warm after a couple of sprints in chilly 37 degree F weather. 150a seems like plenty for my plans with this build.

Even at 200a the 75200 controller never got above 37C versus the 75100 hitting 83C in one run across the parking lot at 120a.



Yes I went 50+mph while the controller was attached with twisty ties.

 

[harrisonpatm]

Even at 200a the 75200 controller never got above 37C versus the 75100 hitting 83C in one run across the parking lot at 120a.

200 battery amps or 200 phase amps?

 

[Braddudya]

Even at 200a the 75200 controller never got above 37C versus the 75100 hitting 83C in one run across the parking lot at 120a.

200 battery amps or 200 phase amps?

Phase. 200 battery would melt the controller down in seconds I would imagine. All of the VESC stuff I have seen is rated in phase. It's a bit misleading and makes people (including myself with the 75100) over estimate the controllers but they are still a killer value. $200 prime shipped for a controller (75200) that is easily capable of 8kW and has all of these advanced features is a deal untouched by any other company I have seen. The open source VESC project is mostly to thank for that.

Some other reputable companies like Kelly also rate in phase I believe. The marketing tactics and exaggerations are getting to be like candle power ratings with flashlights.

 

[PEVSYCO]

Thank you for the updated/review! You almost answered all the questions I had.
Is field weakening feature can be enabled in this controller (out of the box - without flashing new FW)?

 

[Braddudya]

Thank you for the updated/review! You almost answered all the questions I had.
Is field weakening feature can be enabled in this controller (out of the box - without flashing new FW)?

I dont think so but I just updated the firmware. It only takes like 3 or 4 clicks and a couple of minutes. Its essentially the easiest part of using VESC.

 

[PEVSYCO]

Thank you for the updated/review! You almost answered all the questions I had.
Is field weakening feature can be enabled in this controller (out of the box - without flashing new FW)?

I dont think so but I just updated the firmware. It only takes like 3 or 4 clicks and a couple of minutes. Its essentially the easiest part of using VESC.

Ok I see, thanks!
How about after the firmware update? Is the field weakening accessible?
If you connecting your controller to VESC TOOL on your PC I'll appreciate if you can take a look and let me know


Thank's

 

[Braddudya]

It is. I haven't tried messing with it yet. One of the many features to explore in the future. As far as I know with the 75100 and 75200 the only thing you cannot use is phase filtering. According to flipsky you must disable it or you may damage your controller.

 

[PEVSYCO]

Thank you

Take care

 

[chuyskywalker]

I just received the 75200 hoping it would be able to give me that real 72v @ 150a performance.

Instead, I think it just wrecked my Neptune BMS. The BMS went nuts when I turned everything on the first time blowing up my phone with "Short detected" alerts. Also the controller makes this really lovely noise while it's on:

[youtube]PIoYyz7YY5A[/youtube]

(Might have to turn it way up to hear the whine)

I bypassed the BMS and the controller makes the same noise.

Motor still runs, but that can't be a good sign...

 

[Bengy22]

Really thinking about picking up a 75200 for my bbshd, although I can't help but think the 75100 would be fine for my 52v 50a needs. What is everyone doing for displays? I really don't want to use my phone as one on the bike, just don't like how it looks at all. Anyone found a way to use a bafang display, if I could use my 860c that would be awesome. I guess a Cycle Analyst is another option but it would cost almost as much as the controller. I'm aware of the eskate displays but not a huge fan overall.

 

[Ianhill]

Chuyskywalker

Try doing a resistance test on each lead to the case and eachother see if any come back with anything open circuit is what we are looking for any reading at all indicates theres a fault in that area.

The hissing is normally a bad connection sound or a poor short to ground im sure if you take apart the housing and leads you will find the issue.

Sparks can generate a voltage higher than its source so its possible to fry your bms with a back emf from the spark if your running close to the bms max voltage seems you got have a little dig about and look for an obvious issues.

Please get back to the page update us.

 

[transposon]

Could someone give me some guidance on choosing between the aluminum pcb 75100 and the 75200? I plan on running a 1500W leaf DD hub motor. I'd like to cruise at 25mph. I'm guessing that 60A peak and 30A continuous would suffice, but am not positive.

 

[Ianhill]

Could someone give me some guidance on choosing between the aluminum pcb 75100 and the 75200? I plan on running a 1500W leaf DD hub motor. I'd like to cruise at 25mph. I'm guessing that 60A peak and 30A continuous would suffice, but am not positive.

From what ive seen the 75100 alloy would meet your needs but personally id get the 200 and just have piece of mind its well within ratings and heating will not be an issue, plus it gives some wiggly room if you can push your extisting setup a little harder or ever get a slightly more spicy hub etc.

 

[transposon]

Thanks for the feedback lanhill.

The exposed caps and thin wire leads make me nervous. Is anyone using some kind of enclosure to protect everything? The water cooling enclosures might be a good idea (without the water) for extra protection. Or maybe a 3D printed case for the standard VESC...

Also, is the add-on bluetooth adapter needed in order to use a phone as a display?

 

[chuyskywalker]

The exposed caps and thin wire leads make me nervous. Is anyone using some kind of enclosure to protect everything? The water cooling enclosures might be a good idea (without the water) for extra protection. Or maybe a 3D printed case for the standard VESC...

If I keep using my 75200, I'll probably whip up an enclosure STL; it's very exposed.

Also, is the add-on bluetooth adapter needed in order to use a phone as a display?

I'm awaiting a metr for doing that.

 

[harrisonpatm]

The water cooling enclosures might be a good idea (without the water) for extra protection.

This was my thought as well, the 75300, right? More expensive, but I like having a controller overrated for my use, so I don't have to worry about burning it out. I do wonder with the 75300, though: is its higher current rating only because of the water cooling enclosure? If I used the 75300 controller and skip the water cooling, does the current rating drop to essentially what the 75200 can do anyway?

 

[transposon]

The water cooling enclosures might be a good idea (without the water) for extra protection.

This was my thought as well, the 75300, right?

I was referring to the 75100 or 75200 with the optional water cooling enclosure. It looks like the 75300 is only available with the water cooling. Interesting.