foundingpower programmable bms

circuit said:
This reminds me to never ever leave stuff for user to do or understand. Systems must be plug&play...

LoL

I agree

Think I may have the answer to what I done wrong but ill save it till I proved I'm an idiot (not electrically minded).
 
circuit said:
This reminds me to never ever leave stuff for user to do or understand. Systems must be plug&play...
I don't agree. There are companies that sell already made battery packs with BMS, or ebikes/scooters/motorcycles with good electronics, the customer has just to turn the key and it works.

But installing this (or any other) BMS is definitely not plug&play and I don't know how it can be different.
There is some wiring/soldering to do and a lot of parameters to set, so the user has to understand what he does.

For information I've connected mine (older model) but only the battery wires, so it only performs balancing. My other BMS cuts the charger and controller in case of over/under voltage.

I would have preferred a little bit bigger balancing current (about 200mA) but it seems to work. In one month I will be sure if it performs well.
The pack should be correctly manually balanced before the installation otherwise it will be very long to get a correctly balanced pack due to the small balancing current.
But a bigger balancing current would generate more heat and probably require a fan especially in a case, so I understand this choice.

Eason, do you have some news about the new model with speed display ?
 
romelec said:
circuit said:
This reminds me to never ever leave stuff for user to do or understand. Systems must be plug&play...
I don't agree. There are companies that sell already made battery packs with BMS, or ebikes/scooters/motorcycles with good electronics, the customer has just to turn the key and it works.

But installing this (or any other) BMS is definitely not plug&play and I don't know how it can be different.
There is some wiring/soldering to do and a lot of parameters to set, so the user has to understand what he does.

For information I've connected mine (older model) but only the battery wires, so it only performs balancing. My other BMS cuts the charger and controller in case of over/under voltage.

I would have preferred a little bit bigger balancing current (about 200mA) but it seems to work. In one month I will be sure if it performs well.
The pack should be correctly manually balanced before the installation otherwise it will be very long to get a correctly balanced pack due to the small balancing current.
But a bigger balancing current would generate more heat and probably require a fan especially in a case, so I understand this choice.

Eason, do you have some news about the new model with speed display ?

Hi,,new moudel is in the last testing and we are modifying OLED again and again.
I think it will be released in the near future.
 
mark133 said:
circuit said:
This reminds me to never ever leave stuff for user to do or understand. Systems must be plug&play...

LoL

I agree

Think I may have the answer to what I done wrong but ill save it till I proved I'm an idiot (not electrically minded).

I have received your photos and found the problem of connection.
Please look at the pic I sent you!
There are must be 2 wires through the hall sensor.
Discharging current will be follow the arrow through it and charging current will be reverse the arrow through it.
So when discharging,there will be a +A and pc shows "discharging".
When charging,there will a -A and pc shows "charging".
 
Tonight I have tried all combinations ie positive wires through the hall sensor and reversed the hall sensor / negative wires thought the hall sensor and then reverse the hall sensor and still no charging.

The battery is discharged down to 50%.

The most I got was at one point with the charger on it was reading discharging and that is what it was doing.
 
mark133 said:
Tonight I have tried all combinations ie positive wires through the hall sensor and reversed the hall sensor / negative wires thought the hall sensor and then reverse the hall sensor and still no charging.

The battery is discharged down to 50%.

The most I got was at one point with the charger on it was reading discharging and that is what it was doing.
3066318_917677755_w1280p.jpeg

3066318_917677756_w1280p.jpeg

Red is discharging.
Blue is charging.
 
mark133 said:
Tonight I have tried all combinations ie positive wires through the hall sensor and reversed the hall sensor / negative wires thought the hall sensor and then reverse the hall sensor and still no charging.


What is the use of a Hall sensor on a BMS for ? what does it do?
 
NeilP said:
What is the use of a Hall sensor on a BMS for ? what does it do?

Hello, the hall sensor checks total Ah to show remaining capacity via the Oled screen and over current protection via the throttle signal.
I have to say, the product documentation is not understandable. Also i do not understand what FoundingPower is writing in this thread.
For my own review: Bms is not natively USB, and serial to USB adaptator is painful to use. Your computer screen must be 1280x1024 otherwise you cannot see lots a of settings. Also i had an issue with the poor solder quality and the not industrial connector quality (i think this is the issue mark133 is facing, i had the same symptom). I think it could be a good product (because of the ships) but it doesn't match the regular standard for an up to date product. This is my own point of view and i hope this beta version of Bms will evolve and become soon a good product.
 
I received my BMS yesterday.

I installed the software and it opens and will find the correct com port. I hit open and the box says port is open. I click begin check and that box changes to say stop check. I connected as only 7 cells just to test, but it shows 10 cells with green lights, and all system information boxes are blank. I can not change any of the parameters on the parameter information page.

The OLED does not light up or read any info. I have tried with the switch on and off and pushing the green OLED button, but nothing happens.

I sent an email to Eason, but hoped maybe somebody here may have an answer before him.
 
drewjet said:
I received my BMS yesterday.

I installed the software and it opens and will find the correct com port. I hit open and the box says port is open. I click begin check and that box changes to say stop check. I connected as only 7 cells just to test, but it shows 10 cells with green lights, and all system information boxes are blank. I can not change any of the parameters on the parameter information page.

The OLED does not light up or read any info. I have tried with the switch on and off and pushing the green OLED button, but nothing happens.

I sent an email to Eason, but hoped maybe somebody here may have an answer before him.

I assume you have set the battery cells number in the tools tab to:

First chip=7
Second chip=0
 
I have double checked all my conections. The program I have for the CS-BMS is different. It only has 2 tabs, One for information and one for paramaters.
 
drewjet said:
I have double checked all my conections. The program I have for the CS-BMS is different. It only has 2 tabs, One for information and one for paramaters.

Hello, the green button is for LCD backlight, it is strange because you mention an Oled screen.
I think you have an issue with serial port, click refresh and open as many times as Submit becomes activated.
And re-check with the provided Pdf all the battery connections.
From now i have very good email support from Foundingpower, i hope he will helps you soon.
 
I downloaded the other program. It let me change the cells to match but the settings don't stay. Also it still shows 10 cells but no voltage info.
Also the count under the start check box never changes. I looked at some screen shots from previous pages and the numbers were all over 5
View attachment 1
Screen1.jpg
 
Hello, seems you are still not connected to the bms...
You could check with an usb port monitor to find the correct port number.
 
agniusm said:
Would like to ask Eason if there is a limit how long OLED cable could be? Would it work extending it to say 3 meters?


Good question, I had planned on doing the same, I donn't see how it could hurt.
 
Back
Top