GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

[sardini]

Welcome to the club,mine are two years old now

Daily Values
Yield
59,82 kWh
Specific Yield
6,47 kWh/kWp
Maximum value
7,89 kW



Inverter
Qty.ManufacturerType
1SMASMA 10000TL
Modules
Qty.ManufacturerType
39AlfasolarPyramid 60 (poly)

 

[GCinDC]

Regarding north roof - It's got to be option 3. Better bang for your buck, less issues and not an eyesore

Thanks! appreciate the feedback.

What's the deal in your part of the world regarding buyback from the grid? This seems to vary wildly be geography. I guess what I'm really asking is do you really need the full 10-12kw/can you actually consume all of the KWH that the panels put out across the day?

usage last 12 mo was 14,708 KWH. but remember, i got 6 humans under the roof and a dishwasher that runs daily. and in summer it's an unbearable swamp, esp on third floor, so i'm really curious how that changes w/ panels!

agent sent me another file based on three rows tilted in back and here are some comparisons how it would look to folks on the street, more or less:

and the rear/top:

and here it is with some numbers slapped on it

dbaker, you got an opinion on this? 3.5years ROI is pretty sweet. and the DC grant that just got funded is first come first served... can't decide about the SRECs tho. they'll buy 'em up front for 11k but they'd be worth ~$26k over 10 years i think...

 

[litespeed]

On the roof 1/2" is plenty good, 3/4" would just add more static or dead weight. Even with the tree there knowing as much snow that you guys get there that 2x4 flat plate isn't going to cut it. If you could add either a couple of 2x4's on edge between each of your posts with joist hangers or add jack under them would probably be OK. A couple 4 3/8 LSL headers would be best for strength. I've only seen a couple tapering pitch shed roofs but I can tell you they look cool when done.

If the roof panels can not be seen id go with what put on the most KW but my wife would go with the best look. It would be great to make the "man" pay the same amount for my electric that he charges me. I have a perfect 14/12 hip roof for panels but my wife just can't get over the "look" so no luck for me.

Looking forward to seeing how both of these finish out!

Tom

 

[dbaker]

I did a little research and it looks like there is a net metering requirement in DC so that utility pays back for any generation you don't use at full retail. You should check on this and confirm. Will they do this if they don't get the SREC? Peak generation will be when you are at work.

I am not clear on what the terms of the SREC purchase are? Run a net present value calculation to get an idea of what they might be worth if demand stays for 10 years. SREC price history varies You need to read the fine print and understand how it affects your project. Payback in 3.5 years is great. Most projects without rebates and SREC deals pay back in 20 years or more. Maintenance will be on you so you need to make sure the installation is done well. Do you have a link to the vendor? Did they give you references from other jobs so you can talk to other home owners and maybe visit those homes?

Maybe I should cut down some trees at my house? My gable roof ridge runs N/S so would need a very large shed roof on the south

 

[GCinDC]

40mph, changing lanes, hit a pothole, snapped a seat bolt and almost fell off the rear. good grip saved me. balls got a nice whack tho..

road the rest of the way standing... looking forward to larger frame, seat better centered on post...

 

[GCinDC]

was fixing up the hs3540 wheel in 26 Psycho rim...

and properly truing it when i noticed the weld seemed to be unwelded:

another price for riding in salt over the winter?

so let's take a vote: who would ride on this? who would trash the rim? who would weld/repair the side seam?

oh, and i got longer heat sink bolts and did some prep to the miniE:

the miniE sanding job isn't as rough as it looks in that shot (and i spread the arctic silver with a putty knife before i attached them):

i screwed up on the first set of holes, in case you noticed, and moved them because the heat sink was overlapping the wire lid screw. also had to countersink the screws because the top was uneven (and i'd cut the screws too short):

cnc (lol) slots for worm clamps:

thing is going nowwhere:

i'm not in love with the width and the wires coming off, but can't think of a better solution right now.. good enough for 5kw continuous, i'm hoping. maybe not in 100F DC heat, but we'll see.

MC wheel will likely go on this bike, but need more parts before i can get it ready enough before swapping over the MC wheel.

so back to the psycho rim. your vote?

 

[crezzy2k1]

I'd probably order another rim. But in saying that I've seen people riding worse

How is it if you put weight on that part of the rim?

 

[Axel]

New rim !!
at 50mph on concrete …. hum ... :x

 

[Allex]

Hahaha how that happened?

old freewheel + short chain + oversized front chainring + salt in dc winter = freewheel that's a little too free :lol:

going nuts trying to set up variable regen again...

so, either i need to find lower voltage halls (help anyone?) or i'm going to give up on variable regen and try on/off w/ either my throttle button ( ) or a two wire ebrake sensor (reed switch?)...

Here is a description on what you need to get it working, hope this can help you with your variable regen.
https://translate.google.com/transl...=12611.msg438783#msg438783&edit-text=&act=url

Basically: Hall sensor type S49 - buy it or rip one out from a throttle.

 

[Ohbse]

I would definitely be replacing that rim. Looks very seedy. Especially given your usage!

I built my 3540 into a Mavic EX729 and was very impressed. The rim could probably take my full weight without without a hub or spokes at all, very strong. Unfortunately it was an absolute bastard task of filing out 36 hardened eyelets for my 12ga spokes, that really sucked. I would go smaller diameter spokes next time but would buy the same rim.

Have you thought about using a left hand thumb throttle for a no fuss solution to your variable regen? That's what I was planning on doing, maybe even tonight.

 

[GCinDC]

Hall sensor type S49

Found an SS49 here but voltage range seems higher (4-10V) than andrey recommended?

I would definitely be replacing that rim.

ilia at ebikessf.com agreed it was trash and unfortunately beyond warranty. he recommended some rims w/ smaller ERDs in case i wanted to cut and rethread the spokes to preserve... but why bother? better to do another MC rim...

been pretty busy with the new build. both bikes apart this week so i've been riding the road bike! no discipline otherwise, so much exercise, much needed!

moved all these parts from the black to blue bike:
- stroker dual piston hydro brakes and levers (w/ ebrake)
- throttle (wired up w/ ebrake)
- grips
- gear shifter and derailleur (old blue bike's 9 spd shifter and derailleur was horrible)
- MC wheel w/ H40 (trued it up in the process)
- rear shock mud guard

and new stuff:
- 20s2p zippy 11.6Ah pack (using 2 new 4s zippy packs and 4x old 8s packs that have been on the shelf over a year, two slightly dented at bottom - HK sent me replacements which i've still got one the black bike):

- homemade parallel balance leads (i ordered some from HK but couldn't wait...):

shown here w/ BMS attached and new main switch (used after momentary throttle button activates precharge resistor as before)

new steel batt enclosure, no bag yet. and here after the morning commute:

the enclosure will have a plexiglass window showing the bms, which lights up really cool when it balances:
[youtube]dQG_EhUKwzQ[/youtube]

i still need to balance the cells, as you can see. the old ones are all very close, but the new ones are much higher...

NOTE/WARNING: while the BMS will balance the cells (eventually) and keep them in balance, it does NOT restrict the maximum cell voltage while BULK CHARGING - so for an out of balance pack like this, the bulk charger can easily overcharge the higher cells! Andrey has said that the PSU/coil charging method WILL however prevent such overcharging!

PS. In the BMS Setup, I set max cell voltage to 4.2V but I think that only sets the max level in the display. when i noticed my cells were all they way up to 4.2V, I changed the BMS max cell voltage to 4.3V in order to see the top levels, which were 4.215 or so..

I'm leaving it balance all day during work, but noticed during my ride that the cell voltages were very close do balanced under load! i found that surprising. and when charging, the new 4s packs charge must faster... this obviously will not do. so i'll either use my old pack (black bike ~300 cycles) or get new ones...

 

[crezzy2k1]

Nice build Greg. What you gonna do with the black DH Comp?

 

[madin88]

greg, mixing up old an new batteries is never good. they will always differ and the BMS has to work hard every time.

i ask me if there is an option to set the start voltage for balancing (for example 4.0V) and also high voltage cut off (for example 4.1V)? This would be fine.
do yo know how does the controller act if it is switched on, and the battery will be charged via normal charger (not through controller charging)?

 

[ridethelightning]

thanks for shedding light on a few things Greg. im just getting round to wiring my bms so this is great info.

 

[madin88]

more infos about BMS:

http://translate.google.com/transla...par1tkubtkjkifbbag29hl4;topic=21282.msg404528

 

[GCinDC]

Nice build Greg. What you gonna do with the black DH Comp?

the plan was to sell one of 'em. got two serious buyers waiting for me. i'm very nervous selling a lipo bike to someone who doesn't know lipo tho...

mixing up old an new batteries is never good.

well, they're old - 1.5yrs - but NEVER used. i'll balance them up and see.

if there is an option to set the start voltage for balancing (for example 4.0V) and also high voltage cut off (for example 4.1V)?

yes to the first question. in the BMS setup > Cell Voltage Config > you can change the 'balancing' value to any voltage, and when the cell reaches that value, balancing will begin. i've mentioned before that i've set mine to balance at 4.15 because i only want the BMS balancing at the top of the charge. yesterday, i set it lower to work continuously to balance this odd pack, and while the new BMS got nowhere near as hot as my old beta version, after 6 hours, there was one 'heat' bar showing on the display where typically the motor or controller heat would cause bars. the controller was as cool as a cucumber, so i wonder if there's a temp sensor on the bms as well.

as for your second question, i don't know! my understanding at this point is that there is NO HVC if you use a bulk charger. I wouldn't freak out if you only use a bulk charger as long as your max charge voltage comes out to 4.17 or so and no more for lipo, and you monitor the pack balancing frequently...

Only while using the psu/coil via 'regen charging' will the controller control the charging and prevent overcharge to individual cell (groups) or the pack. and for that matter, i've noticed when my pack is full and i brake early in my ride, regen current is very weak, and must be being controlled to prevent overcharging.

do yo know how does the controller act if it is switched on, and the battery will be charged via normal charger (not through controller charging)?

kinda depends on wiring i guess. if your charger GND goes to the controller charge port and the charger + goes to the main + lead, as is recommended and i've got it (tho i also put a switch circuit on my main + lead), then battery will get charged up to the output Voltage of the charger. if you have the BMS set up, and configured balancing, it will start when the cells reach target balancing voltage. you can enable or disable the BMS via the menu: BMS Setup > BMS enable (y/n). but like i said, if the charger output voltage is too high, it can overcharge the batts, i think.

hope that answers your q's.

thanks for shedding light on a few things Greg. im just getting round to wiring my bms so this is great info.

the bms setup for the beta version which i've had for a year now was bit daunting with all the different boards.

by contrast, for this new one, i had no instructions, and just verified the cell order on the board w/ andrey and he said just plug and play, and it was!

attach the jst-xh of the first group (the one that has the GND main) to the connector closest to the master on the board, as in (borrowed from that thread):

(the flipping of the wires in that diag, and the order of them on the board gave me the heebie jeebies! so that's why i confirmed w/ andrey... but yes, that's how they go)

then i turned on system, went to BMS setup, set enable, set to lipo, and added the fifth board. i'll do a vid to show you from scratch..

 

[ridethelightning]

thanks guys, thats great!

it should make it a little less nerve wracking

 

[madin88]

kinda depends on wiring i guess. if your charger GND goes to the controller charge port and the charger + goes to the main + lead, as is recommended and i've got it (tho i also put a switch circuit on my main + lead), then battery will get charged up to the output Voltage of the charger. if you have the BMS set up, and configured balancing, it will start when the cells reach target balancing voltage. you can enable or disable the BMS via the menu: BMS Setup > BMS enable (y/n). but like i said, if the charger output voltage is too high, it can overcharge the batts, i think.

situation like following:

A normal battery charger which fit my battery connected to the charge port and battery positive (not to a phase wire).
If i now switch on the charger, will it instant start to charge or do i have to go in controllers (properly configured) charge menu to let current flow into battery?
Will the controller also show volts, current, BMS activity etc and raise up Wh / % of soc?

another situation:

battery charger connected direct to battery + and - (not through controller charge port).
Will the BMS work if i have the controller turned on?
I guess it will, but the controller will not recognize the battery is charged and will not raise Wh / % of soc. Are my thoughts true?

I have asked andreym for a BMS, but by i got no reply or invoice.

 

[GCinDC]

situation like following: A normal battery charger which fit my battery connected to the charge port and battery positive (not to a phase wire).
If i now switch on the charger, will it instant start to charge or do i have to go in controllers (properly configured) charge menu to let current flow into battery?
Will the controller also show volts, current, BMS activity etc and raise up Wh / % of soc?

yes, it will instant charge. (no sparks to worry about when connecting either, fyi). no need to go into menu. controller/display will show volts, -A current, BMS balancing on that screen if at least one cell has reached balancing voltage (set in bms setup) as mentioned before...

battery charger connected direct to battery + and - (not through controller charge port). Will the BMS work if i have the controller turned on?

no. must be connected for controller for bms to work and any display to be visible..

just made a long adaptto setup tutorial but when i went to turn off gopro, it was already off!

 

[dnmun]

gonna call you mr megawatti, that is a huge number. don't blame it on the bike! 114kWh last month for me. no kids and no dishwasher. window A/C part of the day for 3 weeks in august/sept sometimes. climate here is very stable. not too hot and not too cold.

do you use an electric water heater or is it gas? that could make a lotta difference, and solar hot water could be much more cost effective too. but they don't provide a tax credit for solar hot water any more, just for the PV panels.

i was able to build a passive solar house in the mountains with active solar hot water back in '84 and we got the last of the tax credit mr jimmy had arranged before we got death star reagan who removed them from the roof of the white house.

that cost about $1500 to put together back in '84 and has already saved about $20k in heating. that house is like 80o inside when it is 10o outside in the winter and more solar hot water than they can handle.

looks out south toward shawnee peak. except it is 50 miles to denver. all the money saved is wasted on gas.

 

[madin88]

yes, it will instant charge. (no sparks to worry about when connecting either, fyi). no need to go into menu. controller/display will show volts, -A current, BMS balancing on that screen if at least one cell has reached balancing voltage (set in bms setup) as mentioned before...

thanks for your answer Greg.
i think i now understand how it works, please let me repeat:
the controller does show volts, - current etc. on the main screen (like it does when using the e-brake). No need to go into the menu "charge". The battery balancing can be watched in extra BMS menu (as always).
Wh and s.o.c. % percentage will raise.
further question: does the controller show some text like "charge" on the main screen during this? (i think of the display area where "brake" stands when i push the e-brake).

Its a pity the gopro had gone out. How long has it filmed?

 

[GCinDC]

[youtube]4pPSrmKiIxY[/youtube]

 

[GCinDC]

madin88, you find that helpful?

update: from my ride in this morning, i can say that max regen, at ~34A was very strong. no need to use other brakes, and better be sure to have two hands on the bars! i also enabled Smooth, and found it nicer than the instant hard braking w/o it enabled. if it were only set to ~20A regen, i might not want the smooth, but at 34A, it comes on just a bit slower.

i forgot to show the throttle/brake configs. it was dumb not to ensure that was configured properly, but seemed to be w/ factory settings..

 

[GCinDC]

way OT, but tons of bunnies in the hood this year, three in our small back yard recently, and i caught a fun moment while filming one of 'em:
[youtube]qC5rReMUFSM[/youtube]

 

[ridethelightning]

madin88, you find that helpful?

update: from my ride in this morning, i can say that max regen, at ~34A was very strong. no need to use other brakes, and better be sure to have two hands on the bars! i also enabled Smooth, and found it nicer than the instant hard braking w/o it enabled. if it were only set to ~20A regen, i might not want the smooth, but at 34A, it comes on just a bit slower.

i forgot to show the throttle/brake configs. it was dumb not to ensure that was configured properly, but seemed to be w/ factory settings..

at the 34a regenA setting, what amps are you seeing going back into the battery on the display? iv found that for eg. the 34A setting may not ever be reached, more like max 12-14A or something, but the higher setting does indeed give stronger braking( :? )

i think its still worth sorting out the varyable regen function.its awesome. feels just like a really good rear hydrolic in the modulation