AussieJester
1 TW
Looking good mate, the db25 connectors ain't too difficult to solder all the wires tip, continuity setting on the old multi meter comes in handy though :wink:
Good luck
KiM
Good luck
KiM
geared kona dirt jump frame SOLD
- Thread starter flyinmonkie
- Start date
flyinmonkie
10 kW
Thanks Kim,
Very slowly getting there. I'm taking a bit more time to get it finished the way I want. I also don't have as much time as I would like to work on it. I'm looking forward to having it up and running for the summer though.
Clay
Very slowly getting there. I'm taking a bit more time to get it finished the way I want. I also don't have as much time as I would like to work on it. I'm looking forward to having it up and running for the summer though.
Clay
flyinmonkie
10 kW
I am finishing up my cover for the batt rack at the moment. I'm almost done with it. I need to trim the back to clear the seat post, and get a couple of seams welded on the front.
I wired it all up enough to test it and charge the batteries. It all worked great, as I figured it would. I still need to order a fuse block and a couple of fuses, so I haven't wired in the switch yet. I'll get them ordered today. It will be nice to have a proper on of switch. I also need to get a db35 connector for my one plug charging. I just charged the same way I always have, power leads and balance leads plugged in separately. The batteries were in perfect balance after sitting around half charge for several months. They charged up fantastic as well.
I had to go for a little test ride. The rack was just sitting on the top tube, not clamped on at all. It is pretty heavy, so gravity held it in place. It went well. The new motor mount is super solid. The whole bike feels more solid under power now.
A little bit of wiring, fitting the cover, and some paint, I'll be back on the road. I am pretty motivated to get it finished now that I have been for a quick ride.
Of course there is one final upgrade to work on still. I will get the bike going while I work out parts for it though.
Clay
I wired it all up enough to test it and charge the batteries. It all worked great, as I figured it would. I still need to order a fuse block and a couple of fuses, so I haven't wired in the switch yet. I'll get them ordered today. It will be nice to have a proper on of switch. I also need to get a db35 connector for my one plug charging. I just charged the same way I always have, power leads and balance leads plugged in separately. The batteries were in perfect balance after sitting around half charge for several months. They charged up fantastic as well.
I had to go for a little test ride. The rack was just sitting on the top tube, not clamped on at all. It is pretty heavy, so gravity held it in place. It went well. The new motor mount is super solid. The whole bike feels more solid under power now.
A little bit of wiring, fitting the cover, and some paint, I'll be back on the road. I am pretty motivated to get it finished now that I have been for a quick ride.
Of course there is one final upgrade to work on still. I will get the bike going while I work out parts for it though.
Clay
flyinmonkie
10 kW
TopCat
100 W
Looking good Clay, as long as its not to wide to affect your peddling in any way. We dont want you looking like a bow legged John Wayne after each Egrin ride 
Regards
Tom
Regards
Tom
flyinmonkie
10 kW
Thanks Tom. It's not too bad. I bump into it a little if I peddle, but I already resemble John Wayne a bit. Fortunately, I basically don't peddle at all.
I should get the top in to get welded this week. I have a fuse and fuse block on the way, so I will be able to do final wiring soon and fitting soon.
Clay
I should get the top in to get welded this week. I have a fuse and fuse block on the way, so I will be able to do final wiring soon and fitting soon.
Clay
sn0wchyld
100 kW
you'll be surprised how quick you get used to riding like that. my old case was about 20cm wide, yet after a week I didnt notice it when pedaling any more. Now that I've taken it off to build a new one it looks weird to see such a 'thin' pole inbetween my legs.flyinmonkie said:
Edit
Just realised what ive said there.
jateureka
10 kW
They look like Specialized Compound Sport tyres that you're running. I really liked those tyres with Kevlar Flack Jacket they were pretty puncture proof but can't get them here in Aus in 24 x 2.0 any more.
flyinmonkie
10 kW
@snowchyld Yeah, I'm sure I won't notice it at all after only a couple of rides. You have to watch how you say things around here. Kim will jump on that comment for sure. ha ha
@jateureka They are specialized, could be compound. I had the LBS order them for me. They were easy to get here and not that expensive. They have been good on the road. I can really lean it over.
Got my fuse and fuse block today. Have to say, Jake from Gamma Electrix (he's here on the sphere somewhere) is awesome. Amazing communication, super fast, and the stuff arrived well packaged. Thanks Jake. If you need something for your bike either here in NZ or in Oz (looks like he ships there.) I would check out his shop. www.gammaelectrix.com
Clay
@jateureka They are specialized, could be compound. I had the LBS order them for me. They were easy to get here and not that expensive. They have been good on the road. I can really lean it over.
Got my fuse and fuse block today. Have to say, Jake from Gamma Electrix (he's here on the sphere somewhere) is awesome. Amazing communication, super fast, and the stuff arrived well packaged. Thanks Jake. If you need something for your bike either here in NZ or in Oz (looks like he ships there.) I would check out his shop. www.gammaelectrix.com
Clay
flyinmonkie
10 kW
Good day today. I got the fuse mounted and everything wired except the db25 for charging. I still have to cut a window in the top for the wayy meter and do some tidy up on it. I also have to sort the mounting for the top.
I'm getting close now. Some padding on the rack and for the batteries, and some clamps to hold it all to the frame and it is ridable.
Clay
I'm getting close now. Some padding on the rack and for the batteries, and some clamps to hold it all to the frame and it is ridable.
Clay
flyinmonkie
10 kW
I got the box except for the top all sorted now. I need to get some clamps to hold it all to the top tube and it will be fine weather ridable. The top still needs a hole cut for the meter and a couple of finishing touches. That includes figuring out how to attach the top to the box without being able to get at a nut inside. I'm thinking of JB welding a nut on the inside so it stays there.
I went for a couple of short test rides. They mostly went well. The new motor mount is so solid. There is a bit of vibration noise at low speeds. That may change with clamping the battery box down. The only funny thing was it cut out a couple of times. I traced it down to one of the bolts in my bus bars. Though it was very tight, it seemed to lose conductivity. After unhooking everything and pulling the wire off the bolt and snugging it up, it worked again. After another short ride it cut out again. I tightened the bolt again, despite it being very tight already and came right again. I'm not sure why it losses connection there as the bolt threads into the bus bar and isn't loose. I'll keep an eye on it and maybe clean it up with some contact cleaner.
Clay
I went for a couple of short test rides. They mostly went well. The new motor mount is so solid. There is a bit of vibration noise at low speeds. That may change with clamping the battery box down. The only funny thing was it cut out a couple of times. I traced it down to one of the bolts in my bus bars. Though it was very tight, it seemed to lose conductivity. After unhooking everything and pulling the wire off the bolt and snugging it up, it worked again. After another short ride it cut out again. I tightened the bolt again, despite it being very tight already and came right again. I'm not sure why it losses connection there as the bolt threads into the bus bar and isn't loose. I'll keep an eye on it and maybe clean it up with some contact cleaner.
Clay
flyinmonkie
10 kW
Final touches made on the battery rack toady, minus the top. It is all clamped to the frame and it feels really solid. I took the suspect bolt out of the bus bar and it has some arching marks on it, so it had to be a little loose. I cleaned up the thread and used some contact cleaner on the bus bar and bolt. I put it back together and tightened it up real good. I checked the rest and made sure they were all super tight and wouldn't loosen up.
I went for a good test ride, about 12ks, and all went well. It didn't cut out once. I'm very happy with it all now. I just need to finish the top. I am kind of procrastinating on this, but I will get to it eventually.
Clay
I went for a good test ride, about 12ks, and all went well. It didn't cut out once. I'm very happy with it all now. I just need to finish the top. I am kind of procrastinating on this, but I will get to it eventually.
Clay
flyinmonkie
10 kW
I did a couple hours of balance charging last night. A couple of cells were still pretty out when I turned it off to go to bed. I checked it this morn after leaving them all hooked up with Gary's parallel LVC boards and to the bus bars (as I always do), and there were almost all spot on. The total pack was about 48v and usually comes off the charger at just over 50v. I'll go for a ride in the next couple of days and see if they drain unbalanced again. It is the first time I have had that happen.
Other than that, I'm doing my best to keep up with the SoCal race news. Looking forward to reports on the day. Some day I'll be over there for a race.
Clay
Other than that, I'm doing my best to keep up with the SoCal race news. Looking forward to reports on the day. Some day I'll be over there for a race.
Clay
flyinmonkie
10 kW
I still haven't finished the top of the box, or attached it. I have been ridding the bike though. It is going well, except I have problem with one of the bolts in my bus bars. It keeps loosening up and breaks the connection. I am going to try swapping it out with another bolt to see if a new on fits better. The bolts are pretty sloppy in the holes and the thread is where they make contact.
Other than that, I think I have a couple of week cells in 1 or 2 of my battery packs. I have never had an issue with balance until now. I have 2 or 3 cells that just don't want to charge up as much as the others, or as quick. It takes ages to get them up. The bike feels like it is lacking a bit of power as well. It seems pretty good right off, but my commute home is slower than my commute to work with the same amount of throttle.
I'll be getting more batteries to bulk out my amp hours anyway, so I might replace the week ones if I can't get them to come right. I don't want to screw up brand new batteries.
Eventually I'll get the top finished.
Clay
Other than that, I think I have a couple of week cells in 1 or 2 of my battery packs. I have never had an issue with balance until now. I have 2 or 3 cells that just don't want to charge up as much as the others, or as quick. It takes ages to get them up. The bike feels like it is lacking a bit of power as well. It seems pretty good right off, but my commute home is slower than my commute to work with the same amount of throttle.
I'll be getting more batteries to bulk out my amp hours anyway, so I might replace the week ones if I can't get them to come right. I don't want to screw up brand new batteries.
Eventually I'll get the top finished.
Clay
flyinmonkie
10 kW
The batteries seem to be balancing out better now, but I think a couple of them are pretty tired. They take a long to charge as they have to balance basically every charge. I also have about a 4 volt sag on acceleration and it just doesn't feel the same any more. That and with a slightly lower top end, I think may have some geriatric lipos.
I push them pretty hard I guess. I accelerate all out pretty much every time. I ride at WOT always. Gears help with that. I just pick the gear for the speed I want and pin the throttle open. I don't crack it open on every start, so I stay upright, but I roll it on pretty quick till it stops and leave it there until a gear shift.
I think a higher amp hour pack will handle it better from my understanding of building batteries. That is very limited though, so I could be wrong.
I'm tempted to change my gearing slightly when I get new batteries. It would be nice to see just over 60kph. I'm pretty sure it could all handle it. The motor is never too warm to hold you hand on it. If I lower my first gear, I might actually see lower peaks as well. I just have to be careful it doesn't become a bucking bronco. I am still seeing peaks of just over 5k watts and 120 amps.
Clay
I push them pretty hard I guess. I accelerate all out pretty much every time. I ride at WOT always. Gears help with that. I just pick the gear for the speed I want and pin the throttle open. I don't crack it open on every start, so I stay upright, but I roll it on pretty quick till it stops and leave it there until a gear shift.
I think a higher amp hour pack will handle it better from my understanding of building batteries. That is very limited though, so I could be wrong.
I'm tempted to change my gearing slightly when I get new batteries. It would be nice to see just over 60kph. I'm pretty sure it could all handle it. The motor is never too warm to hold you hand on it. If I lower my first gear, I might actually see lower peaks as well. I just have to be careful it doesn't become a bucking bronco. I am still seeing peaks of just over 5k watts and 120 amps.
Clay
sn0wchyld
100 kW
flyinmonkie said:
How long have you had 'em? and yea, increacing the capacity lowers the C rate that they're discharged at, so it should help.
Ive noticed my brand new lipos drifting a little already
!! maybe I need to pull em appart now that they're broken in and re test/match em up...
recumpence
1 GW
Normally lipos stay ballanced pretty well. However, I have one large string of packs (12S, 25ah) that drifted when they were new. Once I reballanced them and kept them within 20% depth of discharge and above, they have been fine.
Matt
Matt
flyinmonkie
10 kW
sn0wchyld - Batteries are about a year old or so.
Matt- They have been great up until now. They were balanced nicely when I got them and they have always been almost exactly in balance. They sat for a few months while I built my new battery box. They were a little out after that, but seemed to come back in well.
After the last few rides they have been the closest when I plug them in. They get further apart as they charge. A couple of cells charge quickly to 4.1v and then just hang there. Then the rest catch up and the cells at 4.1v take for ever to finish.
It does seem to be getting a little better now with use. But charging takes hours and hours where it used to take just over 2.
Clay
Matt- They have been great up until now. They were balanced nicely when I got them and they have always been almost exactly in balance. They sat for a few months while I built my new battery box. They were a little out after that, but seemed to come back in well.
After the last few rides they have been the closest when I plug them in. They get further apart as they charge. A couple of cells charge quickly to 4.1v and then just hang there. Then the rest catch up and the cells at 4.1v take for ever to finish.
It does seem to be getting a little better now with use. But charging takes hours and hours where it used to take just over 2.
Clay
flyinmonkie
10 kW
Batteries charged in a reasonable time last night and were almost perfectly balanced. Might have just taken a few cycles to get them back in balance after sitting for a month or so.
Might be time to order some more batteries since I went to all the trouble of building a battery box for them.
Oh, I should finish the top for the box as well. he he
Clay
Might be time to order some more batteries since I went to all the trouble of building a battery box for them.
Oh, I should finish the top for the box as well. he he
Clay
flyinmonkie
10 kW
Well it may be time to move on from the brushed motors. I might just be looking for a brushless set up now.
I got half way to work and my motor lost almost all power and started chugging. I turned the bike off and pedalled the rest of the way. (I really miss my power) When I got to work, there was a little burnt electrical smell.
When I get home, I'll have to take it all apart and see if I burnt another commutator. Or if the brushes are burned. Or if it is some thing else all together.
I don't think I'll go RC yet. It may work for what I use my bike for, but I might look at the BMC brushless motors. I just don't know where I will put a giant controller.
Clay
I got half way to work and my motor lost almost all power and started chugging. I turned the bike off and pedalled the rest of the way. (I really miss my power) When I got to work, there was a little burnt electrical smell.
When I get home, I'll have to take it all apart and see if I burnt another commutator. Or if the brushes are burned. Or if it is some thing else all together.
I don't think I'll go RC yet. It may work for what I use my bike for, but I might look at the BMC brushless motors. I just don't know where I will put a giant controller.
Clay
AussieJester
1 TW
Bummer MonkeyMaNUSKiwIDudE :-( we new this time would come sooner rather than later though, considering the powerz you
have been putting through the poor widdle motor i'm surprised it lasted this long as i am the controller i smoked one the same ina few days, i guess i got a 'made on Friday' version though LoL... Time to SteP it UP ...Astro 3220 it up MoNKeYBoi...3220 it up :wink: Itz time to "Grow some" and stretch those arms and getz those monkeyhands deeeeeep into ya pockets mate, the time has come, share with us FlyingMoNKeY the frustration of running a high powered RC Setup... :lol:
...to the darkside you will come MonkeyMaN, and only then will your training be complete
KiM
have been putting through the poor widdle motor i'm surprised it lasted this long as i am the controller i smoked one the same ina few days, i guess i got a 'made on Friday' version though LoL... Time to SteP it UP ...Astro 3220 it up MoNKeYBoi...3220 it up :wink: Itz time to "Grow some" and stretch those arms and getz those monkeyhands deeeeeep into ya pockets mate, the time has come, share with us FlyingMoNKeY the frustration of running a high powered RC Setup...
:lol: ...to the darkside you will come MonkeyMaN, and only then will your training be complete
KiM
TopCat
100 W
flyinmonkie said:
Mine went the same flooky way! after I left them for a month or so, I think batts do that? After a couple of recharges the settled back in.
flyinmonkie said:
Damn blast and bugger it all to hell
Aint it just the way of things! You spend time and money working on yer pride and joy till its running perfect, you take her out for a spin ---- yippeeeee you holler as you zoom along the road with that big beaming Egrin not caring a jot that you've got bugs in yer teeth. A couple of months go by then BANG, fate throws a spanner in the works. Such a shame mate, I for one was enjoying watching your build progress.I burnt out my 36V 500watt a couple of months ago
Im also looking a getting a BMC motor once funds allow. The motors themselves are pretty cheap enough but the controllers are quite dear. I got a phone call today about some work that'll take me up to xmas, so a new motor may not be that far off. I was following this thread about BMC motors but its gone a bit quiet of late....http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=32178
Hope your back up and running soon :wink:
Regards
Tom
AussieJester
1 TW
TopCat said:
Easily fixed, dont use the BMC controller use a 6 or 12fet Lyen Infineon or something equally cheap...the 'Infineons' are available
on flebay cheap also ...
KiM
flyinmonkie
10 kW
Well, for those of you that have been following my thread these pictures will look familiar. They are almost the same as ones I posted a year ago.View attachment 3
If you look at the brush that has come out of its holder, it looks like it got very short and was pulled out of the holder causing the short on the commutator. The motor would still turn until it hit the dead spot. Last time, the motor wouldn't even turn.
I started this project trying to do a mid power less expensive set up than RC using a similar design. Lets face it, at averaging 1200w and 40 amps and seeing peaks of over 5000w and 100 amps, I have a mid to high power set up. I also wanted to over build a little so stuff would last. Well, I did not achieve on that front. So, it is time to go brushless and actually build to the power levels and speeds I want.
Now for the big debate... RC or sensored brushless (BMC or similar). I know where Kim stands on this ha ha. If the Turnigys were available right now there probably wouldn't be a debate. I guess it comes down to what I use the bike for, as I have offered as advice to others here. Build for what you are going to use it for.
So, that being said, I want to commuted every day on my bike. I like have gears for the motor as it is hilly here and that keeps the motor happy. I like good acceleration with no pedaling and a top end of around 60kph. I like low speed control. Is a high powered RC up to it? Or will a sensored motor be better. I am not ready to put sensors on an RC motor.
Lastly, cost will come into the equation. I guess I'll be doing so pricing of parts as well.
Clay
If you look at the brush that has come out of its holder, it looks like it got very short and was pulled out of the holder causing the short on the commutator. The motor would still turn until it hit the dead spot. Last time, the motor wouldn't even turn.
I started this project trying to do a mid power less expensive set up than RC using a similar design. Lets face it, at averaging 1200w and 40 amps and seeing peaks of over 5000w and 100 amps, I have a mid to high power set up. I also wanted to over build a little so stuff would last. Well, I did not achieve on that front. So, it is time to go brushless and actually build to the power levels and speeds I want.
Now for the big debate... RC or sensored brushless (BMC or similar). I know where Kim stands on this ha ha. If the Turnigys were available right now there probably wouldn't be a debate. I guess it comes down to what I use the bike for, as I have offered as advice to others here. Build for what you are going to use it for.
So, that being said, I want to commuted every day on my bike. I like have gears for the motor as it is hilly here and that keeps the motor happy. I like good acceleration with no pedaling and a top end of around 60kph. I like low speed control. Is a high powered RC up to it? Or will a sensored motor be better. I am not ready to put sensors on an RC motor.
Lastly, cost will come into the equation. I guess I'll be doing so pricing of parts as well.
Clay
recumpence
1 GW
Clay,
You know where I stand on this subject. :wink:
Honestly, I like the BMC motors for a "Reliable as a hammer" setup, as long as the extra weight and size is not a problem.
RC stuff is very good for ultra light weight performance. It can also be quite reliable if setup correct. However, there is normally a higher cost to setup a high-end RC system.
An Astro 3220 will do everything you are looking for without the need for gearing. My yellow trike is geared for 65kph and will run reliabily fast or slow with a 4 turn 3220. I have a lot of miles on it without any problems. But, the cost is quite high for that setup.
My guess is the BMC will be close to the size and RPM of the motor you have there and give you more power than your brushed motor. If you go the RC route, you will have performance and lighter weight, but the BMC system will give you some piece of mind if you are concerned about the reliability of an RC system or are not interested in the RC learning curve.
Matt
You know where I stand on this subject. :wink:
Honestly, I like the BMC motors for a "Reliable as a hammer" setup, as long as the extra weight and size is not a problem.
RC stuff is very good for ultra light weight performance. It can also be quite reliable if setup correct. However, there is normally a higher cost to setup a high-end RC system.
An Astro 3220 will do everything you are looking for without the need for gearing. My yellow trike is geared for 65kph and will run reliabily fast or slow with a 4 turn 3220. I have a lot of miles on it without any problems. But, the cost is quite high for that setup.
My guess is the BMC will be close to the size and RPM of the motor you have there and give you more power than your brushed motor. If you go the RC route, you will have performance and lighter weight, but the BMC system will give you some piece of mind if you are concerned about the reliability of an RC system or are not interested in the RC learning curve.
Matt
