geared kona dirt jump frame SOLD

flyinmonkie said:
After rebuilding a tensioner wheel, I have looked at the rear sprockets. That, with another ride and I am sure the skipping is coming from the severely worn rear sprockets. After all that I could have changed them easily. I was sure from the sound that the skip was coming from the first stage, but I think it was just the shock of the skip at the rear creating an audio illusion.

I am off the get some new sprockets and see if that sorts it. Fingers crossed. Maybe I'll go with some new ones this time.

Clay

Chain bugs are annoying as hell, aren't they?
 
fizzit said:
Chain bugs are annoying as hell, aren't they?

This is the worst chain problem I have had so far. I should have known it was the rear sprockets as they were used when I put them on the bike. I should have checked them first as well.

After putting some new sprockets on, it is all good now. Chain lines aren't that hard to set up and if you keep the drive train clean and lubed it can last a long time.

Anyway, I'm back on the road.

Clay
 
Gotta love new sprockets. Rode to work today and all was good. I had to change my gear ratio a little with the new cassette. I found I could use a 13 tooth for my smallest sprocket. That gives me a bit more speed. I had to go with a slightly smaller low gear though. My lowest gear is a 27 tooth sprocket, instead of a 28 tooth. It still pulls hard and will climb anything.

I have set up a new fuse holder. Actually a parallel holder to be able to handle the amps I am drawing now. I'm hitting peaks in the mid 60's. I haven't installed it yet and I have blown 2 40 amp fuses now. I have to get a ring connector and I'll be able to install the new fuse set up. This will allow me to use 2 40 amp auto fusses for a total of 80 amps. That will handle the amps I am drawing and still protect everything.

I really like having the 3 speed switch from lyen. It has helped keep from blowing more fuses and allowed me to keep running. I like this cyclone set up better and better. I have found the non linear throttle issue though and may have to do something to sort it out.

Clay
 
Parallel fuse holder installed and I can once again run at 120%. I have also tweaked the gearing again. I changed my second gear to a 19 tooth sprocket. The 21 tooth was to slow for second and the gap to third was too big.

I'll get some pictures when I make my one plug charging plug.

Clay
 
Here are the pics of my charging plug. I know, my soldering is crap. I hate doing it especially with such small stuff in such tight places.

I still have to sort out the bike end and charger end and make sure it all works. Then I can mount it on the bike.

Clay
 

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Nice! I really want to do something like this!
 
As usual I have been really slack. I haven't gotten the charging plug installed on the bike yet.

Work hosted a National Climbing Comp a couple of weeks ago. It is always a huge job, and of course I ended up competing. Me competing was a joke, I only do it for the spot prizes but I didn't get anything good.

Anyway, the weather has been real cold (for NZ) and pretty wet. It finally dried out the other day, so I have been riding again. I need to get the plug sorted and finish the top of my box. Then I will basically be finished with this bike.

I am really happy with the cyclone. It is a really solid motor. I am still playing with the lyen controller settings a bit to get exactly what I want. It is fun to be able to change them and they make a huge difference. I am being careful to keep it all in the limits of the motor this time though. My only gripe is the non-linear throttle. I'll just live with it for now. When I do another build, I may go with a CA or a speedict to try and sort that out.

When I finally get around to finishing this one, I'll get some final pics.

Clay
 
Picked up a GT I drive 5 frame (2006 I think) yesterday from the recycling centre. It looks pretty good with no cracks. It needs the rear shock and the drop outs, but I will see what it takes to sort that out. Then I might see if I can swap all the electrical stuff to that frame. I'm kinda itching for a full sus.

Clay
 
Just wondering, with how many current can you charge through that connector?

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@byte

Not sure yet, I haven't used it. The speaker wire is the main charge wire and I have split it into 3 pins. That way one pin doesn't take the entire load. I only charge at a few amps and I have enough capacity to get me to work and back plus a little. So I charge at night when I have plenty of time. It usually takes about 2 hours to charge from a commute to work and back.

There are lots of people on the forum that have done the same or very similar and they all have said it works very well.

Clay
 
The pins are rated at 5 amps but I wouldn't like to sustain that over long periods of time.
In my setups I run 10 amps into 3P packs - so each pin is seeing around 3.3 amps. That's about as far as I'd recommend pushing them.
With a 12S battery (or bigger battery with a DB37 ) you could wire up the extra pins though to take the charge current into the main pack leads so use the -ve and +ve from the balance leads + 2 or 3 extra pins for each battery terminal. With 12S you could potentially charge at 20 amps with this set up
 
Thanks Jay,

That is good to know. I'm pretty sure I only charge at about 5 amps or so. Like I said, I'm not too fussed about fast charging. I have the main leads split between 3 pins, but could have done at least 4 pins if I wanted to.

Clay
 
DB type connector pin ratings vary a lot. Some are rated at 2 amps per pin, some up to 5 amps per pin. For these long term currents it is prudent to derate them by half. So 1-2 amps per pin is a good guide. Beyond that watch them for discoloration or loss of plating material. Paralleling lots of pins helps a lot though if near each other they heat each other.
 
Aren't there any connectors for about 15 pins which can handle more amps? I don't mind if it's a little bigger...

Another question flyinmonkie: what is that black stuff you used? I've been searching for something like that but these things I found were quite expensive imo.

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@byte

It's called liquid tape. I'm sure it is the same as the tool handle dip stuff. It's alright, but not fantastic. It will be a pain if I ever have to remove it.

Not sure about the 15 pin plugs. The DB25's aren't all that big.

Clay
 
flyinmonkie said:
@byte

It's called liquid tape. I'm sure it is the same as the tool handle dip stuff. It's alright, but not fantastic. It will be a pain if I ever have to remove it.

Not sure about the 15 pin plugs. The DB25's aren't all that big.

Clay

your gonna hate me for saying it but I'd be very nervous about using those CAT5 cables on an ebike. they're meant to be in low-movement installations, like inside the walls of a house. Being single core, if any 1 of those little wires breaks (and they will if you bend them back and forth enough) then it will either break the circuit (bad, but fairly easy to notice when you go to balance) or far worse, still provide a connection, but create a point of high resistance at a point somewhere allong the cable. then if you pull any power through it it'll heat up and cause problems...

if you want something really low profile like cat5, hunt around in stores like jaycar for printer cable. its usually ~28g (roughly the same as cat5) but multi core for each separate wire, and they come with up to 9 wires per cable (hope that description makes sense :? ) . that way if 1 of the wires inside breaks, there's 5 or 6 others there to take the load, so you dont get the same problems. ive used both printer cable and ribbon cable on my bike with good results for a while now, though 28g wire means you want to keep the amps below 1A, ideally <500mA.

the liquid tape stuff is great huh? though I've started using black hot glue on mine, a bit easier to get off and gives you the option to 'sculpt' it to fit. no toxic fumes either!
 
Thanks Sn0wy,

The cat 5 is only for the balance leads when charging, nothing else. The wires on the bike will not likely move much at all. It is a short run form the balance boards to the plug and both will be firmly held in place. The wires from the charger will get moved the most as they will be plugged in and out each day. They will see very little movement though and gentle bends. I'll keep an eye on them though. Thanks for the tip on the other wires.

Yeah, the liquid tape is alright. It takes quite a few coats and if the wires move much then a hole is created when it comes out of the goop. The black hot glue is a good idea. It should be easier to melt off if you need to as well.

Clay
 
Good job Flymonkey man :) ...I have the same setup using DB25 as Jay suggested the left over pins i used for the + & - lines..
The setup definitely makes things a simple no braiier charging/balancing 12s lipo setup... The liquid tape is good stuff for jobs that
will never require re-soldering etc ... my DB25s are cover in the stuff like Monkey mans LoL

KiM
 
Thanks Kim,

Hope you had a good time on holiday and ticked everything off the list you gave us... several times. ;)

Are we going to see some bike work from you now? I know you won't be in the shop everyday.

Clay
 
flyinmonkie said:
Thanks Kim,

Hope you had a good time on holiday and ticked everything off the list you gave us... several times. ;)

Are we going to see some bike work from you now? I know you won't be in the shop everyday.

Clay
CheeRS MonkeyMaN ;) Bali was great heading back for 10 days in November, so freakin cheap over there...went surfing to
obviously couldn't stand up but had a paddle out and caught waves in.... If LFP is listening, Magic Mushrooms are
100% LegaL in Bali.... AJ likey the shrooms... LoL

Bike work soon, still getting back into Perth life, so cold here now so very cold LoL..

KiM
 
Cool about the surfing Kim. It is a cool feeling when you catch the wave, even if it is just body boarding. Looking forward to seeing some more AJ greatness from the garage in Perth.

I have been pretty slack as well. I do have a little update though. I finished the charger portion of my single charging plug. Pic below. I just need to mount the bike side in the box and I can got to one plug charging. Then It is the infamous top of the box to finish to end off this bike.

Clay
 

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It's been ages. I've been in and out checking on what is happening, but not doing much work on the bike.

I finally sorted the one plug charge plug, but something is amiss. When I plugged it in to check it, the charger was not reading the balance taps. Then some smoke started coming out of the charger near the main output plugs. I immediately unplugged the pack and turned the charger off. The charger seems to be working correctly, but I think I should open it up and see what smoked. I guess I'll have to recheck all my connections in the charge plugs and make sure there are no shorts. I can't think of what else would cause the smoke. I am not sure why the balance taps aren't being read either. I can only guess that the connection to the Goodrum LVC boards isn't making a connection.

Clay
 
flyinmonkie said:
It's been ages. I've been in and out checking on what is happening, but not doing much work on the bike.

I finally sorted the one plug charge plug, but something is amiss. When I plugged it in to check it, the charger was not reading the balance taps. Then some smoke started coming out of the charger near the main output plugs. I immediately unplugged the pack and turned the charger off. The charger seems to be working correctly, but I think I should open it up and see what smoked. I guess I'll have to recheck all my connections in the charge plugs and make sure there are no shorts. I can't think of what else would cause the smoke. I am not sure why the balance taps aren't being read either. I can only guess that the connection to the Goodrum LVC boards isn't making a connection.

Clay

Perhaps a missmatch of pins? Ie soldered the balance taps in bacwards or something? Hope the chargers ok.
 
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