GIANT DH COMP & K2 thousand

[GCinDC]

Yep.

 

[dan974]

I'll check tomorrow, ...don't forget it's a 24" wheel ...

I mesure it : 2.75" when it's written 3.0" I found that this is teh static width...duro wildlife are quite the same width as 3" static to give 2.7 for what I found on the internet...it depends your rim width too ... but as it's in fact teh halo is a duro I guess it's the same...forget to mention for low pressure addicted :wink: this is 1 to 2.5 bar and 28mm min rim...mine is 37mm outside...

plus it looks like after hundreds of km that the width would be a few mm wider...

http://www.wobbling.unicyclist.com/Tyres/

and I don't see the trouble as there's plenty of place left ...even by putting the axel in the original place...and as I remember when the rear shock is mouted there is no interaction in the way...

not talking about big 8Mah batteries but for those who like it big :

http://surlybikes.com/parts/category/wheels
http://fatbikes.com/

 

[dan974]

Wonderings :

the kelly controller won't work on 12V on Power 1as Fany said ? 24-72 V...as FanY said so power on 12V DCDC like on doc drawing won't work...

it should be on 72V Fany said, so I need a 72V EV200 much more expensive than the 12/24V one ? or the classic on will work...

is there a benefit to use a 72V contactor and next the DCDC or it's better to use the DCDC before the contactor then the contactor in 12V...maybe the 72V contactor us more W to hold, when using the DCDC use W too...if 12V is not needed, DCDC doesn't need to be on too (for lights for ex)

regarding contactors (Chiness ones like on kelly website it looks like it's about the same power to hold the solenoid, maybe half W on 72V than on 12V, (0.1A/72V=7.2W or 1A/12V=12W)but it's not the same price and the EV200 model just use 0.1A @12V ! but it's the 12V/24V, not a 72V one...I need help

would you still use a DCDC and an EV200 under 12/24V with a parallel wire of B+ or just a 72V main contactor ?


by the same, how does the converter 110V/220V work as a DC-DC ?!? a special work ?

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?uid=27353&f=16&t=43586&start=0

 

[hydro-one]

better set up that motor with a temp sensor. you will burn it out quickly at anything at or over 20s lipo. if using a 12fet , you might be ok. Ive burnt two of those, one at 80v one at 100v with 18fet lyen controler. (in five minutes). very costly mistakes. and for you even more of a pain. now i would suggest a HT3525. That motor will not burn at 100v. we have tried and its pretty good.

 

[GCinDC]

especially considering the hills you want to go up! that motor temp is definitely the weak link in your setup now...

were you planning on venting it? oil?

at the current you want to draw, you will cook it in no time. i'm glad someone else spoke up...

 

[dan974]

I rode all your stuffs guys, why should I burn it with 20S ? 72V is nominal load and hyena put 24S... , steam25 had no prob with that voltage, 40A conitnous and 120A peak...

you will burn it out quickly at anything at or over 20s lipo. if using a 12fet , you might be ok. Ive burnt two of those, one at 80v one at 100v with 18fet lyen

what Amp did you burnt yours ? do you have a link to a post threading it ?
12fet 18fet...ok 80v and 100v but what amp ? what didi you burn ? phase wires ? be precise plz to help with technical stuffs

ok, I would considering low Amp in the beguinning be sure even if I got a High rated controller, I just didn't wanterd to burn the controller.
oil cooling, seems not working that much reading posts...holes for sure, but first step is low amp 30Amp.

thanks for advising guys

 

[GCinDC]

sorry, maybe i'm confused. i wasn't sure where you were with amperage:

do you think I can put 280A burst in the XT150 and how much will handle the motor wires ?

and for some reason, i'm thinking you wanted to go UP the DH tracks! and then go back down them... going steep uphill is a motor cooker! but then i searched this entire thread again and found this:

...to answer, I would love to be able to go uphills...pedalling is not an option as I'm use to it....if it's not possible even @low speed I would stay on the costal arear and take only "flat" forest loops :wink:

this line doesn't make sense: pedalling is not an option as I'm use to it. do you mean pedalling IS an option because you ARE used to it? or do you mean that pedaling is NOT an option because you are NOT used to it? tu fais velo beaucoup, oui ou non? je n'ai rien compris...

 

[dan974]

sorry, maybe i'm confused. i wasn't sure where you were with amperage:

do you think I can put 280A burst in the XT150 and how much will handle the motor wires ?

it was before landing on E-earth reality , I forget that Amps will get it hot fast...so max amp target was pointed downer...anyway I hope to put @end 120/140 A burst in it...maybe more, for sure not for more than 5min...fo sur I will put the temp wire into something...what do you think, CA or Kelly controller ? don't know which one will be the best ...the kelly can read it to protect the motor...

and for some reason, i'm thinking you wanted to go UP the DH tracks! and then go back down them... going steep uphill is a motor cooker! but then i searched this entire thread again and found this:

...to answer, I would love to be able to go uphills...pedalling is not an option as I'm use to it....if it's not possible even @low speed I would stay on the costal arear and take only "flat" forest loops :wink:

pedaling is NOT an option because I 'm used to get Up & DwHill : to be clear I'm ready to get like "assisted" and pedalling hard to get uphill even if I need to be @ 20km/h and low A, but the wondering would be how much Amp will I have to put to get the torque enough ...I don't know @what Amp or speed the torque is the highest, keep efficienty....sorry for frenglish
looking the simulator @half of max speed, amp is like 30% but W is about 50%...I'll have to play with the simulator to try to predetermine the much efficient speed for uphills, I'm ready to use on 15% of throttle...

Do anyone know how much W can we produce by pedalling hard ? w/o EPO mister A...out...
http://www.fontanilcyclisme.fr/puissance/form_puissance.php I would say about 300W pff not that much help for the hub...

[quote: steam25 old pm (@18S or 65V ]Another very good thing is at this speed is that you got the vmax RPMs from the motor which result in a big drop of amps. This will give you a great range at full throttle cause the watts drop down to 600-950W at 55km/h. [/quote] I

I'm not a good climber, but I practice Enduro/DH stuffs, and I'm a 34 sportive guy with gym exercices+running 2t a week and windsurfing in thoses kind of conditions http://vimeo.com/47436418 when I'm not hurt...an other story..., so to do it short I' m ready to pedal hard to get uphill If I can get up with a 10or 20km/h boost ! and as I'm getting my ankle fixed next week...cycling will be part of the back trainning for the next 2months...(remembering a shoulder story )

I'm wondering, I got the 3 speedswitch from crystalite where and how should I connect it with the Kelly montage ? the goal is to be used @legal power, demonstrations, students uses and to adapt technical or high speed tracks...

 

[icecube57]

Get a speed switch from Methtek. It sits inbetween your throttle and the controller.

 

[dan974]

Get a speed switch from Methtek. It sits inbetween your throttle and the controller.

ok, I'm aware of it, but what the difference, technicly ? comparing to Crystalyte/chiness ones, where do they go usually ?

plz try to explain when posting advices or recommandation, as an engenering teacher, I'd like this thread to help me growing my knowledge and other people in similar quest...

 

[GCinDC]

are you wanting to get a kelly controller? sorry, i'm confused. i'm not sure if they take the same three speed switch, but i have no idea. they don't come w/ a CA connector either, do they?

 

[dan974]

I already got the kelly controller, they do not come with all wiring easy..need a shunt, no 3 speed connection, but the phase and throttle and brake connect...so I have no idea where and how to connect a chiness 3speed buton or @least methods one...

I receive the puffy one's today cool, it was like opening a rock of C toop rated, just a little parano about firing it

sahring for those wondering about ordering from HK...hey, I put orders with items back ordered so I put like 200$ and so after 15days I got the gold status and I could decide the declared value for customs services...came by zurich german switzerland :lol: 23$ each box...this is the rules overthere...under 30$ too much work for low taxes...SO : no taxes delivery in 3/4 weeks.

try to find the intru :|
LIPO/EVA vibration foam/double powertape/velcro/ shrink tubes/mesh tubes/balance wire extensions/Y balance extension 5S/plug saver 5S ok I got a wrong bag of 6S.../4x buzzers low voltage/balance discharge tester/LiPo safe glassfiber bag/XT150 plugs/battery/ Infrared thermometer(YES I care about temp )velcro/(from kelly : the controller+J2 crystalyte cable (add to change the phase plug from M to F....a)) and the intru ...did you find it :lol:

 

[icecube57]

Get a speed switch from Methtek. It sits inbetween your throttle and the controller.

ok, I'm aware of it, but what the difference, technicly ? comparing to Crystalyte/chiness ones, where do they go usually ?

plz try to explain when posting advices or recommandation, as an engenering teacher, I'd like this thread to help me growing my knowledge and other people in similar quest...

Methtek has resistors built into the switch to simulate a 3 speed switch analog style. It sits between the throttle and the controller and the switch puts different resistor values in line to simulate lower speed. While the chinese switch 3 speed switch are based on what your controller is programmed for and has a special connector. (Infinion Based)

 

[dan974]

...So if I don't get the infenon ones but kelly one, I can't use the 3 speed button, otherless I put myself a resistor...what I tought...cheating the controller with a resistor...thanks to have confirmed what I thought.
made my home made powerACDC with a 250W, but it can't handle more than 5.7A charge on th e12V ramp, it cause below 11V and charger get into secure mode...so I can't reach the 8A fast charge...


What is the best A charge for lipo 3OC 8000mAh, said 5C as charging...

6 packs had 1 or 2 cells 0.01V of difference (3.85V) and only one pack was a little difference one ..3.82/3.83 others 3.85 seams good
Do you guys would recommand 2 full cycles of charge/decharge before 1st use ?

and ..., charger / Vmeter / buzzers alarms there is no one stuff which give the same V value @0.01 :lol: :lol: :lol: chiness factory calibration I guess =), I'll trust the charger ...

 

[t3sla]

6 packs had 1 or 2 cells 0.01V of difference (3.85V) and only one pack was a little difference one ..3.82/3.83 others 3.85 seams good
Do you guys would recommand 2 full cycles of charge/decharge before 1st use ?

Cycle as many times as you can!

 

[dan974]

I'm about consiering a coil contactor,

as the kelly controller power on is on 72 V, I 'll have no benefit to use a DC-DC to 12 V before it (as on doc's typicla ebike wiring diagram) to action the coil of the contactor.
the fact is that on ebay there's a lot of EV200AAANA (12/24V)
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300856220128[/url]
I think I need a EV200AJANA (48/95V) but the selle is telling me it's ok with a AAANA...and/but the close voltage max is 48V (pickup) so I'm a bit lost...I think the EV200 consume less W with the economizer, but I'd rather choose one of that kind : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-...716?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c3f6d05c which are the same than on Kelly website...

 

[dan974]

Hey do you guys know a tester to wire the motor to the controller or do you check the multiple combination until it's smooth ?
+ I'm wondering , when you parallell charge with the BC168, those it still charge @ 8A ? in this case I think that If you put Y wiring on the parallel board with it you can // charge 8 packs in parrallel @ 8 A it will be slower as the amp would be divided, so buying a second BC168 is not worse the price comparing buying a big bulk charger ...

I don't see why, but do we need to put a bigger W power supply if we connect more // packs on the balance board with Y cables (8 x 8000 mAh ZIPPY ) ?

 

[GCinDC]

Hey do you guys know a tester to wire the motor to the controller or do you check the multiple combination until it's smooth ?

lyen sells an ebike tester which is great to quickly identify if a hall or phase is dead. but this won't help w/ combination. for that, use pencil and paper and write out each combo you try. or do the research to find the combo for the same motor/controller combo. you are using kelly now? (ps. black & red hall wires must never change position! :wink: )

when you parallell charge with the BC168, those it still charge @ 8A ?

if it charges each cell at 8A, i think you're charging at 8A x the number of cells. but i'm still behind on that thread... i would charge at less than 8A to start...

do we need to put a bigger W power supply if we connect more // packs on the balance board with Y cables (8 x 8000 mAh ZIPPY ) ?

the bigger power supply the better... for its sake if nothing else. the charger doesn't care about capacity, it will charge until it's done (unless you've got timers set up, etc.)...

 

[dan974]

yeah amp are just divided ( from hyena) when you // charge , I just needed confirmation, so I'm going for a big bulk charger and balance when needed before and @end...
I 'm with the kelly which doesn't make easier =) I got the cable for hall sensors, but not for the phase wires, kelly is A, B, C and crystalite is green blue yellow for phase wires... s there an order for the phase wire , or I just have to test combination ? I'll ask doc which is the only one I know going with kelly con...

thks Greg

 

[GCinDC]

moonshinegot a kelly working w/ a cromo. you might want to pm him..

 

[dan974]

that's a good news from HK :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I hope they're selling balance charger with it !

anyway, @ what amp do you think we can bulk charge 8000Ah with max charge rate @ 5C ? 2, 3, or even 4C (32Amp) @ no risk ?

 

[dan974]

nice geometry :

INFOS :
for the dimensions to put a discbrake and use a post mount for a 203/180or 160 you need to respect those dimensions : I git them from the DH team :

78.2/51/39.8 mm : the key, next you have to check were the load of the torque would go as a force to your frame so it goes in the frame the way it resist the more but again not that much torque on the rear brake...[/quote]

updates of torque arms will follow soon, the pie is fried :

found that frame for 50$ mmh, could be interesting...

 

[dan974]

you tube test

[youtube]player_detailpage&v=5EPPM5IbABE[/youtube]

 

[dan974]

wouah...fall on this...[youtube]gBNxTSTMeII[/youtube]

 

[dan974]

reading and reading again and again in the forum

I got plans, that I haven't seen outathere...if my understanding of the english, reading 1/2 lines...we try to have a better air dissipation/circulation near the magnets/wiring...
PLAN A
If I can curve (with a press ...) 2 or 3 radiators to the external radius of the Hub, applying thermal grease and soldering (fixing @least)...(this is alloy :wink: and probably not Cromo one as frames...), it won't ad so that much drag, nore inertia, but more dissipation surface...@ least when stopped

PLAN B using holes, for circulation I think baldes inside the hub is the best , but we have to work with the best splines design and experiment if the drag does'nt input more power...not to eat more power due to the drag...heating more power to fresh it...the snake biting its tail...
PLAN Y : use the ...what is the name of the magic red paint ?still recommanded ?
PLAN C push more vent inside :
cheap experiment 12V , with a pipe for feeding the top front quater of the hub, considering the flow throw the quater rear @ ground

or even with a compressor which can be usefull for inflate, or just if you're stocked waiting for the hub to cool down...

I would experiment blowing air with 1 or 2 pipes coming for the front with 1 or 2 scoops + a PC airfans+ filter (and a switch for freewheel use with for low speeds) to just push the air on the side of the hub cause it is pretty turbulent around the wheel...
@least again it would help freshing if in need of a stop and could cool the controller if in need too

and the best scoop for the end

scoops with eyeshots :wink: :wink: :wink: