GIANT DH COMP & K2 thousand

[dan974]

What if you put the buzzers in the battery side with 3pole switch on ground. I would assume that what Dan was thinking from start.. lots of soldering to make that custom harness but would be pretty cool...

yes I should make a plug of bullets glued to switch the pack from series to parallel in just 1 plug.
the remaining question : If I can charge with the buzzer wired...as we charge with the balance plug,
1)maybe the ground should be cuted in any charging case otherless it will burn it if Amps from the charger goes into it...but maybe not as it is only a voltage checker...in tis case we can charge each P one by one , or // as nothing will go inside the checkerbuzzer.
2)assuming the situation of the grounds not being cuted,serie charging or // charging with it plugged is the same as there's no links beetween the balance plugs...

 

[andreym]

updates of torque arms will follow soon, the pie is fried :

could you please share the 3d model?
I`m looking for options for dh comp frame and yours looks better than Kiwi adapters because of extended wheelbase!
thanks in advance.

 

[dan974]

I updated the link, and will soon make a post, still few stuffs to be perfectionned ...some little drillingdue to the melt on the frame ...as I don't have access to it right now , I didn't had time to fully validate pupils design
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/29701432/ebike/LAST3.zip

 

[dan974]

FIRST RIDE : Addicted ! :lol: :lol: :lol: some news soon need to setup everything true in the CA and check temp before going more than 50 % of the controller...the weight is huge but the handling is amazing ...blabla some go pro in a couple of days

....I'm pretty busy, need to make some extra €€€€€, I'll be back soon

 

[dan974]

for moonshine who can't wait =)...here are the DH team new dropouts : 2mm missalignement of a sym laced wheel, 7S free wheel (only use big one for no mot. and small one for mot. +pedalling =)

sorry about that but I'm very busy with my work and riding...GoPro is mounted...so vids soon, I put 165Amp peak @84V...8+KW peak...an MX so to say...
locktite everywhere+welding and epoxy cooked =), the box isn't finished and some composite when I'll find time beetween riding and working...

thanks to all contributors (Kristopher, GinDC, penchen, Hyena, Pendragon...

More to come...Later...

 

[GCinDC]

very happy for you!

165A is very high! is this with kelly controller? did you set the rshunt value in the CA?

how are you monitoring the motor temp?

it's an h40?

 

[moonshine]

Those dropouts look sick! They're wicked beefy. I take it you had no issues with caliper alignment? I wonder if it would help with my cromo....

 

[dan974]

temp sensor is hand right now =) strange noise last time...maybe 1/3 hall sensor dead ?
yes I hava a 50MOhm shunt by CA so calibration is nice, yes this is with kelly and strong regen too...
I think cromo are 150axel...it's a HS4065 lots of torque max speed 59km/h with 25"6 wheel...24" with fat halo contra


LAST EDIT , I knew yesterday noise was a trouble...as temp was pretty High, I mesured 100C outside...water vaporised when I tried to cool it =)...
there was a little noise...thought it was the freewhell @first...

today I downgraded power...but I burn it...I thing it's the phases wires as pedalling was pretty hard on flat with 7th speed...a little bit easier when I unplgged the phase wires but not as a true freewheel...10kms...it sucked...
I cuted the original phases wires the shorter I could as Kristopher recommand me...less resistance...maybe it's a mistake, as there is little area too to dissipate the power maybe same Resistance but on shorter wires , so they melted...maybe the motor have seen more Amp to ...anyway I only put 125Amp on the ride it melt...or maybe my riding get more agressive ...I think I already ride more agressivly and did not had trouble...I assume I getting used to the power...less wheelies...

let's diagnostic it by openning it...any tutorial overthere plz ?

 

[dan974]

I would enjoy helping or adapting with the Cromo...I guess it's not classical 6holes disc If you give the outside radius of your disc I can maybe help with positionning the postmount ...

maybe the key is outathere...http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=47452&p=764747#p764747

 

[GCinDC]

before opening the motor use your eBike tester to check the halls.

 

[dan974]

i don t have à tester...yes it s maybe the halls..
I Mayne lost 1 then 2 and 3 the second day....is it possible to check the halls sensor without a hall tester ?

 

[GCinDC]

just rereading your earlier email....

it was 100C outside? gosh, that's hotter than dc.

very sorry to hear about walk of shame. most of us have done it!

with phase wires disconnected, it's still hard to turn the wheel? if so, you could have fried phase wire(s)

if not too hard, and you suspect it's the halls, which have a lower temp rating, generally, you can test by:
attach GND/black hall to one end of 4-5v battery (power source), red to + terminal, and put multimeter black on same 5v GND, and red multimeter wire on each hall (blue then green then yellow) and measure the voltage as you spin the wheel. use wires with alligator clips..

you want to see DMM voltage fluctuate as you spin the wheel. if it doesn't fluctuate, the hall is probably dead.

i've never done this but think it will work...

i'm not sure what your hall connector looks like, but if it's cheap square plastic 6 prong type with 5 prongs, it may be easier to leave connected to controller w/ batt off and jam dmm probes in back of controller side...

when you take apart motor, you can no longer test halls unless you have a way to tap the wires, either by scraping off insulation or by probing the end at external connector, and even then you have to wipe a magnet in front of it to look for changes...

buy an ebike tester.

 

[jansevr]

nice build! i am planning a similar dropout for my downhill bike - hopefully i will have some time to work on it soon. sorry to hear about your motor/hall troubles - good luck sorting that out

 

[dan974]

first go pro realeased :

[youtube]e0PubJGgWQI[/youtube]

spend the friday to search for the magic red paint, as after testing the hall , buying some cable for the phases and tool to open the hub, I want to do it all together...

 

[dan974]

wouah ! respect ! it give me the idea to make a segway like mod =)
[youtube]vWNy6Mchboo[/youtube]

 

[GCinDC]

first go pro realeased

nice one dan! who are the green agents?? looks like fun going thru those trees at the end!

buying some cable for the phases and tool to open the hub, I want to do it all together...

new wires for the phase wires? if so, you need high temp pfte, like this: http://www.bulkwire.com/wire-cable/ptfe-high-temperature-stranded-wire.html
if you get some 12g wire, might as well get 25' of the 26g for replacing the hall wires one day...

i think this is the paint: http://www.sprayon.com/products/red_insulating_varnish

and to open the hub, a 6" gear puller...

might as well buy your hall sensors while you're at it. can't remember the type to get..

 

[dan974]

yes you got it greg ! =)

I got some wires, will test their heating resistance with the welder ...

is your red paint mainly for the rust or is it usefull for heat dissipation too ?

I could only find some silicon based paint, resisting 300°C...I got the gear puller, the holes maker and a 5V adpater to test the halls...

 

[dan974]

who are the green agents??

they are officials from the environenmental services...they re doing a meeting for the park renovation...people to avoid if I don't want them to put a Bicycle forbiden panel @ the entry :wink:

looks like fun going thru those trees at the end!

yes you can listen the motor dying @ the very end...clic clic noise...before that ride there was a wired noise tought it was the freewheel, motor was pretty hot I think that there was shortcuts in the intenral wiring...I reach 100°C on the top of the hub...

when I kill it you can listen to the clic clic , I first had a drop in the power , and when I applyied throttle again, a little drop and then no power,

the Kelly LEDS say hall sensor trouble.

I test them they seem not to work with the wheel , the values change but seems a little weird...

accessing the plug wasn't easy so thks to greg, on the controller part the plug is much bigger

any way I knew I had phases cutshorted (continuity bip test)

opening it was not so easy...the 6" gear puller axel scrw was too far and I did not had time to cut so I use frist the nut and spacers to engaged it...

in fact the varnish fried =)

I know you're going to say what a noob...I knew the risks...give me a toy I'll push as hard as I can...I assumed what happen, and it's part of MY experience ...I had 400kms absolute rides for the price of it ...
Phases are ok but in fact the whole wiring is dead as being all shorted

one hall melted and cutshorted

I melt it again and test, something voltage are strange nut it seems to work but wired to the kelly said it had hall trouble...by the same way you can see the inside place taken by the 20S16mAh...not that much, plenty of place...

note that the rust was already getting in the bearing whiicj is already dead too !!!!on that side

I going to have rewired as it's half the price of the motor...and vented it !
A new order will be placed with Kenny soon I hope...
I want to get some 2S Zippy 8mAh too to reach 22S and charge max @ 90V (Kelly controller limit) so I'll charge max @ 4.1V and it will preserve my pack as topping the speed. any trouble next bulk charging some 4x5S ZIPPYS 8mAh + 2S 8mAh same rate ? I can even parallell charge them with the BC168 Right ?

 

[dan974]

is there a link to the stator wiring principle to help ? I watched the Factory_Floor_Remix_of_Juiced_Riders_eBike_Family

 

[Hyena]

Your hall issues are incidental, the windings are toast so you need a whole new stator/motor core to drop in.
There's no fixing it unless you want to spend many many hard hours rewinding it, which I wouldnt recommend unless you are unemployed or otherwise dont value your time and your fingers!

 

[dan974]

I'm bringing it to a guy for 200$ which is less than the 4065 imported ... with the exemple :

windings doesn't cost that much on ebay but as said it's lots of handworks...

is a pro rewinder, being curious about that motor is ready to do it...cash is often a solution in tropical Island :lol: :lol: :lol:

it seems that the shortcuted hall scraped the hub and maybe 2 little bambou pieces to hold the windings 2 were out, you can see the scraps on the hub...

do you think an hall failure could have done this or just too much temp ? because there was the clic clic before the failure ..@ least I would have a full hub to experiment air vent designs...

one question : it is possible to parallel one of the hall signal and wire it on the CA plug with a non direct plug configuration (kelly controller) instead of using the speedometer but to enter the number of poles, should I count the number (or half...) of magnets on the external hub to calibrate the CA ?

LAST EDIT :

justin answered me : Yup, so long as he all signals are ground referenced and not electrically isolated. :wink:

 

[Hyena]

I'm bringing it to a guy for 200$ which is less than the 4065 imported
is a pro rewinder, being curious about that motor is ready to do it...cash is often a solution in tropical Island

Fair enough, I bet that'll be the last one he offers to do :lol: You're lucky to find such a person on a tropical island!

do you think an hall failure could have done this or just too much temp ? because there was the clic clic before the failure

Well the windings are definately burned so I'd say you baked it and the hall failure was secondary. If it was just a crook hall you should have had symptoms of poor performance. Air cooling and a thermostat will prevent another failure.

 

[dan974]

it's so hard to import stuffs that you'll always find someone to repair everything...a smile, few creol words and some cash make it easy :wink:

 

[dan974]

LAST EDIT :

justin answered me : Yup, so long as he all signals are ground referenced and not electrically isolated. :wink:

Justin again : It's half the number of magnets, (basically each N - S pair counts as 1 pole)

 

[dan974]

rrghr I put a long post about motor current /battery current as the CA see battery current with the external shunt, how to know the motor current not to fried it !

when I rode 165Amp battery peak in fact the motor had seen 165x1.3 as battery current is set @ 70% of motor current ...so 210 peak...I took car of short burst to nominal speed so the battery amp were 15/30 Amp normal...when I burnt it I was motor set @70% too but 280A peak*0.7 make 196Amp peak...

Are you guys reading battery amp with the Directplug CA ? What would you think is the max peak to put in a 4065 without regarding the temp (supposed it's cool)

I'm a bit lost in the Kelly param of battery current limit and motor limits...if teh controller is 120A continue set @50% it's 60Amp continue max but how and why adjust battery current %...


otherless, I found the garage in the sugar canes where the guys use a 1000V powersupply ground on one phase and + on the outside of the stator...needle move : windings dead for sure...next he found that one phase as cutshorted , probably reaching another because of a hall sensor failure, but he didn't know about brushless motors...
I didn't know that the phases meet in a star point...so my test was nul...
as it need small chiness hands to work in the tiny hub, he will spend more than a day on it...meet him next week =) he even have the standard bearing for replacement ...

aera were one phase shortcuted...