Giant DH Team, Cromotor, 18fet Lyen, 111v Lipo

crusoe said:
Is that white piece of plastic your main support/mounting bracket for everything Dr bass?


Yes, it's made of thick nylon and hold by being clamped to the big frame tube and the seat lower frame tube.

I can remove the battery easy.
Doc
 
Looking from the top, it seems like my knees would constantly bash into the packs Doc. Those corners also look painful. How do you like this setup when pedaling? I suppose with that much voltage and power, pedaling isn't done much?
 
I believe the way he has it configured there is JUST enough clearance for the pedals. 3 batteries wide is the same length as one battery lying down. In my case, I JUST barely have enough clearance for my pedals.

I don't see why everyone thinks this width is a problem. Aslong as the pedals clear, you shouldn't notice the width? Your legs don't really bow inwards when your pedalling. There might be light rubbing with your calves... but I don't' see it being an issue.

Thanks Dr.Bass... your creations and work is what really made me believe in myself to build something like this.
 
That is not quite true if you are trail riding or doing any type of agressive riding. You use the saddle and frame to hold the line. I've had bruises even from my setup. I am curious about the maximum width that is reasonable for trail use. If all you do is street riding, then I can see you getting away with it.
 
Ya, I agree with kfong. but then again, i'm sure if a body was built around the battery case it would alleviate those problems and turn into a motoX style.

what are you running battery wise kfong?
 
I'm currently redoing the battery setup to lipo's this year. I've been avoiding them due to the fire hazard until I had a setup that I felt comfortable with and I think I have a way to prevent the fire from getting out of control. I also had the problem of not fitting 5amp hr packs into my triangle space without making it wider than I liked. I plan to put 14.8 Amp hours in my triangle (12S 6P 2650mah) I was able to keep the width narrow by going with smaller capacity packs. This involves more wiring but I was not willing to sacrifice any pedaling performance. With the way I ride, I know my knees don't stay parallel to the frame. Single track requires a lot of body movement. My battery cover is very smooth and I still get bruises on my knee from time to time. With the new lipo setup, it's just slightly wider than my konions. I would stick with the konions if I could but need the higher capacity and voltage. I'm not even sure the lipos can take the trail abuse, so I will be doing everything I can to keep them secure and protected. The Konions took 3 years of solid pounding and until recently they have shown to be rugged. I had a bad spot weld that eventually failed from fatigue. Here is the build http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=12654&start=150

Too bad there isn't more ebikers where I live, I would like to try a bike with such wide packs to see if it's something I could deal with. Moving to 1kw this year but have the rest of the pack in the rear. Not ideal for performance but it's the setup I like currently. I'm only interested in single track trail riding so this bike setup works very well for that. My requirements are a bit different from street riding. The bike gets constantly bashed as well. Even replaced the frame last year.

crusoe said:
Ya, I agree with kfong. but then again, i'm sure if a body was built around the battery case it would alleviate those problems and turn into a motoX style.

what are you running battery wise kfong?
 
hillzofvalp said:
How man magic shines total do you have, doc? 2 for trike, 2 for dh...

2 for the trike,
4 for the DH :twisted:
4 for the mongoose :twisted:

Doc
 
I have found a width of battery that works low like under my down tube can be just fine but when I move it up on top of the top tube it is very uncomfortable for pedaling out of the saddle. I have two duplicate packs and tried at one point to put my front fork pack on the top side of the top tube and it was bad. So if its low enough as long as the crank arms clear its fine but up higher your knees may hit bump into things if pedaling out of the saddle. I like my set up with one pack under the down tube and one pack on the front forks up high.............wayne
 
At first I thought it might be a bit too quick on single track. I like to pedal the whole time. If I'm not tired I'm usually standing and more than half the time peddling. At full throttle I can no longer keep up with the peddling which was a concern. Max speed now is close to 24mph. The good thing is the throttle response is very smooth, so I can usually find a good compromise. It's the higher torque that made me want to go to this voltage. The bike is a riot on hills, the more technical the better. Another reason for the higher voltage and capacity Is I can ride to my trails and get there faster. Then cruise at the slower pace that single track demands. It's very much like tree skiing for me. You need to be focused or you end up eating bark. I'm pretty sure I would not want this setup to be any faster. This bike was built only for single track use. I have other bikes if I need speed, but then it would not be for single track. Even my new DH bike might not be my first choice, since it's more for wider trails. It won't be as nimble. It is setup better for speed and wide trails. I have not ridden a DH Giant, so I don't know if it would be similiar. DH have a higher rake angle.

crusoe said:
How is it running only at 44v kfong?
 
A quick update and new problem!

It's been a while since my last update but I figure I'd wait until I have some good news to post about!

Today I received my dropouts from Kiwi!

dropout.png


I had todo a little bit of filing to get the dropouts to fit nice and snug. Great work!

Every thing was moving along smoothly... until I slid my cro-motor into place.

rear1.png

rear2.png


As you can see the tire is rubbing on the swing arm. Where do I even begin to start to straighten this out?

I also completed my battery casing with Method's LVC protection. This turned out quite well... it holds 10 batteries inside the frame nice and snug! I've even taken it out and pedaled it around the block and the batteries did not budge. Due to the lack of a proper camera, I apologize for the low quality and low number of photos.
 
A bit of dishing should fix that, loosen all the right hand spokes half a turn and tighten the all left spokes half a turn. Repeat if more clearance is required.
 
From what i see, it is not the wheel that is offset, but the orientatio o fthe axel that is angled. If you take a of the wheel alignmebt, it is not parallel to the bike lengh.

Maybe check the torque plate if they are at the correct position.

Doc
 
If you have the time read the thread I just started regarding my Giant DH....... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37026

Long story short from that post is you may want to get some shorter spokes for the left side and re lace just that side of the rim. Make sure to lace the left side with all the spokes on that side as outbound within the flange. Don't go like normal half inbound and half outbound on that flange. I am going to try 5mm shorter for the left side so I can dish it around 1/4" or so. Kiwi's drop outs are awesome but I think everyone is going to need to do this for a wider tire to sit in the middle of the swing arm. No big deal for me but it also had me stumped for a bit. MadRhino set me straight.
 
Dr., is there a way to easily tell if my wheel is properly aligned? I too had the feeling it might be this...

My adapters seem to be installed properly.. maybe they just need a little bit of "encouragement"
 
binlagin said:
Dr., is there a way to easily tell if my wheel is properly aligned? I too had the feeling it might be this...

My adapters seem to be installed properly.. maybe they just need a little bit of "encouragement"

Your wheel should be parallel to the triangle frame, that's it.

Here is a little bit of "encouragement" :

Good luck!
You can do it!
Do your best.
Do the best you can.
Work hard.
Keep up the good work.
Take it easy.
Don't worry.
That's okay.
It's going to be all right.
Everything will be fine.
No problem.

Doc
 
As Doc points out this is definitely axle alignment, not a dishing issue. Could the right side torque plate be reversed? If you hold the two plates together, do both the original and new axle holes line up?

-JD
 
Thanks for the advice guys.

I have did some shaving with a Dremel to the dropouts and created a little more clearance to center the axel. I ended up dishing the tire a bit as-well... but the tire is lining up alot better now!

Here's a video of me trying out the Cromotor and everything else with a low powered controller. In this video i'm running 44v @ 15AH. The torque on this motor is awesome!

[youtube]pzEyS8Iw4kA[/youtube]

I can't wait to hook up the rest of my batteries and switch the controller for the Lyen, but there is only so much time in the day! At least spring is right around the corner :D
 
nice!!! i just cant wait to ride!!!! nice progress on your bike!!!
 
Yes, she's starving!

I plan on swapping out controllers tonight for my 18FET Lyen @ 111v! I hope that provides this beast enough juice!I just gotta make sure not to kill the Controller, because I think that will be the limiting factor in my setup!

A question for the electrical guru's... How does Paralleling my batterys pack reduce the amp's being pulled from each Pack configuration? Is it simply divide AMP's being pulled by number of paralleled packs?
 
Back
Top