GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

Great! This is everything

Weight 2.63 kg
12 slots 8 poles
Winding factor 0.866
Cogging: 24 step per rev.
Rm 73 milliohms (phase to phase)
Kv 67 rpm/V
Kt 0.143 Nm/A
Km 0.53 Nm/√W
Specific Km 0.20 (Nm/√W)/kg

Rotor OD 79mm
Stator OD 119mm
Stator ID 79.8mm
Stator thickness 25mm
Lamination thickness 0.5mm
Magnet thickness 4.2mm
 
For comparison:

GNG Gen1
Wt 2.63kg
Km 0.53 Nm/√W
Specific Km 0.20 (Nm/√W)/kg

Astro 3210
Wt 1.0 kg
Km 0.20 Nm/√W
Specific Km 0.20 (Nm/√W)/kg

Turnigy C80 100 - 180
Wt 1.81 kg
Km 0.41 Nm/√W
Specific Km 0.22 (Nm/√W)/kg

Turnigy RotoMax 150
Wt 2.53 kg
Km 0.61 Nm/√W
Specific Km 0.24 (Nm/√W)/kg

Joby JM1S
Wt 1.8kg
Km 0.83 Nm/√W
Specific Km 0.46 (Nm/√W)/kg
 
So is this actually the same motor with just a different driver , same spec/same dimensions?

At least it seams so. No Chinese ever says what he sells, they always say: "look at picture I sent you". So you dont really know. BUT it is rated for 3000rpm@48Volts which fits and has the same dimensions assuming from the pics.
 
crossbreak said:
So is this actually the same motor with just a different driver , same spec/same dimensions?

At least it seams so. No Chinese ever says what he sells, they always say: "look at picture I sent you". So you dont really know. BUT it is rated for 3000rpm@48Volts which fits and has the same dimensions assuming from the pics.
Cool, Thank You !
 
Yeah, that definitly looks like it. Its the motor that goes in the Unite differential I posted ages ago in this thread.

I'm thinking that someone removes the axles, puts them on a 4 axis CNC and machines those pulleys into the axle. Thats why we cant get them off with normal (ie. brute force) means.

What it may mean, is that we now know we can remove the axle and get someone to machine it for a better sized 5M pulley. Hmmm...
 
A few things relative to your posts over the last few days.

I bought a GNG through Mr. Tao and I'm still waiting for my kit. Be aware that they are buying off the the Chinese eBay, "Taobao" and then reselling to you. You have to fund an account in advance, they place the order with the Taobao seller and then you wait. I waited a week to find out that the item was backordered. Then the purchase went through and I waited a week for the seller to ship. My kit supposedly shipped on Dec 6th and now I am waiting on EMS Air. The tracking number that Mr. Tao gave me does not work at the EMS web site. Like I said previously I've saved about $80 if I ever see the goods.

I have the laser cutter lined up to cut the adjustable sheets. I will also make the sheets longer a la Christer to make room for larger sprockets/pulleys. Once I have my kit I'll create the cutting path and then get the fabrication estimate and post it here.

All of you seem to be going to chain drive and that's fine. I'm going to see how the stock belt performs when properly tensioned. If I continue to have problems I'm going to go to a 20mm wide go-kart belt with a 14T drive sprocket and correspondingly larger driven sprocket. Comet Karts has a huge selection of different sizes of 20mm sprockets and belts.
http://www.cometkartsales.com/store/belts/belts.htm

Really cool to see the inside of the GNG motor and to get all of the specs. It seems like an even better deal now.
 
LightningRods said:
I have the laser cutter lined up to cut the adjustable sheets. I will also make the sheets longer a la Christer to make room for larger sprockets/pulleys. Once I have my kit I'll create the cutting path and then get the fabrication estimate and post it here.

.

I've been thinking about the adjustable sheets and your design seems to be the way to go, I have one suggestion though, I think it would be best to incorporate jack bolts rather than relying on friction to hold the tension, this would make it easier to adjust and keep the jackshaft parrallel to the motor, Whadya think ?

I also found that MSC industrial supply carries 3 different grades of #25 chain , links and halflinks in 10 ft section made by Browning and Morse from $44 for standard to $263 for stainless steel, This is a high end industrial supplier so I am hoping this is quality stuff, they also carry sprockets and just about anything else you can think of.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=3743&PMITEM=58636853&PMCTLG=00
 
He he he ! I just added a T-50 x 1/4" staple in the second shunt slot , Woa what a differance 20% amps makes, prior to this I was pulling just under 20 amps at a full throttle run up the street ( small incline) now it pulls 25+ amps ,5 minutes of full throttle runs and wheelies and felt zero temp in the motor, wheelies are now so easy but harder to control due to the spikey throttle, I think I'll have to get a half twist and a controller capable of 30 amps .
I'm stoked :D
 
bzhwindtalker said:
Humm time to open up this puppy for me too then ;)
If you just pull the non wired end plate off the controller you solder in the shunt easily, it sits right at the end.
 
just a warning, have you actually measured the current now ? as I suspect by using a staple you have basically have no current limiting at all, motor may be fine in very low gears but the controller will eventually pop...
 
gwhy! said:
just a warning, have you actually measured the current now ? as I suspect by using a staple you have basically have no current limiting at all, motor may be fine in very low gears but the controller will eventually pop...
I have a Turnigy watt meter mounted and monitered it while riding , I cant actually see it while pulling wheelies ect but it seemed to peak at just over 25 amps starting in my high gear ( I am running a 3 speed cassette setup with 34, 26, 20 cogs) running it up the street when I can see it.
 
a staple will have basically zero ohms , the shuts in a controller is not a normal bit of wire it has a resistance. it will be the initial pulling away from a standing start that will see the most current, once rolling the current peak will not be so much. A watt meter do not operate fast enough to catch very fast current spikes. There is the possibility that your staple do have a tiny bit of resistance and it will be all ok but I would get a proper shunt to fit into the controller, even if its to just remove the doubt.
 
gwhy! said:
a staple will have basically zero ohms , the shuts in a controller is not a normal bit of wire it has a resistance. it will be the initial pulling away from a standing start that will see the most current, once rolling the current peak will not be so much. A watt meter do not operate fast enough to catch very fast current spikes. There is the possibility that your staple do have a tiny bit of resistance and it will be all ok but I would get a proper shunt to fit into the controller, even if its to just remove the doubt.
Well I dont pretend to know much about electronics , I would install a proper shunt but wouldnt know what to ask for or where to buy it, I have also looked into installing a resister to accomplish the same thing but that was beyond my understanding. I cant really even figure out what controller to buy to upgrade ?, This staple mod was mentioned early in this thread so thought I'd give it a try.
 
something along these lines would be ok for a shunt : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250mm-x-14-swg-NiChrome-hot-foam-cutting-wire-amp-shunt-/220495436889?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item33568d5c59 this will be enough for loads of shunts :D

edit: wrong link...
 
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