GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

gwhy! said:
something along these lines would be ok for a shunt : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250mm-x-14-swg-NiChrome-hot-foam-cutting-wire-amp-shunt-/220495436889?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item33568d5c59 this will be enough for loads of shunts :D

edit: wrong link...
OK, so install this Nichrome parrallel to the original shunt like I did the staple? I have some Nichrome but smaller diameter.
 
thinner wire will have a higher resistance so you may need a shorter piece, but yes it will be worth starting out small and working up.
 
gwhy! said:
thinner wire will have a higher resistance so you may need a shorter piece, but yes it will be worth starting out small and working up.

OK thanks, I'll try the Nichrome, I just did a full brake full throttle stall test and the controller just cut out so it seems to me that the overload protection is still working ?
 
Highly recommend that you do NOT bypass the shunt. I am looking for the post by Jeremy, but until then...

Cheap Chinese solder has "some" resistance, but very low (clearly it conducts electricity). So adding solder to the shunt allows the current (which is being measured) to increase. It is the length of the shunt that is important. If you want to bypass a section of the shunt, it has the same effect as making it shorter, lowering the resistance, which will tell the controller to send more current. If you want to increase the maximum current your controller will put out, do it slowly in steps, by bypassing a small section of its length. Here is a pic by JohninCR:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25802
file.php


...Found the resistor mod, which allows a very controlled change in the shunt resistance with a single step, rather than creeping up on it in bypassing shunt-length steps. I am not good at electronics, and I trust any opinion by Jeremy Harris concerning any of these issues. Read this thread, lots of good info and pics:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44784
Rdiss.JPG
 
the controllers that I use do not cut out when the current limit kicks in, they just deliver that max current into the motor. There may be something else ( another protection circuit ) shutting the controller down.
 
gwhy! said:
what was the max current on the watt meter did it show when it cut out ?.
the meter isnt fast enough just like you said it was showing 20 amps when it cut out.
 
spinningmagnets said:
...Found the resistor mod, which allows a very controlled change in the shunt resistance with a single step, rather than creeping up on it in bypassing shunt-length steps. I am not good at electronics, and I trust any opinion by Jeremy Harris concerning any of these issues. Read this thread, lots of good info and pics:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44784
Rdiss.JPG
Trust me I have done alot of reading and have read this thread on the resistor mod, the problem is they are talking about a specific controller, are you saying its the same proceedure on any controller.
I think I just need to talk to someone whobuilds these things, tell them what I want to accomplish and plug and play. there is so much info it becomes disinformation for someone like me :?
I love doing the mechanical stuff and the simple electricals is fine but this stuff is getting me down.
 
I would say there is something else going on with your controller to cause it to shut down, with my controllers ( current limit is set for 80A ) if I lock the rear wheel and give it full throttle the controller will deliver this 80A for around 2sec then it will shut down. the watt meter do display a max current of the 80A, but your controller may work different from what I am using
 
so how bad is this kit for a 22 mile roundtrip commute..
 
Denisesewa said:
I've been thinking about the adjustable sheets and your design seems to be the way to go, I have one suggestion though, I think it would be best to incorporate jack bolts rather than relying on friction to hold the tension, this would make it easier to adjust and keep the jackshaft parrallel to the motor, Whadya think ?

I think that's a good addition to the design and would make it more positive for adjusting and holding adjustment. But just like the rear dropouts on most bicycles, it may not be necessary. My sheet design has way more contact area than a wheel hub. I think I'll see if I have a problem and then add the screw adjusters.

Still nothing from Mr. Tao. Eight days since shipped out EMS "Air" from China.
 
Haste said:
so how bad is this kit for a 22 mile roundtrip commute..
Actually, i think it´s great! Been using it for about a month in my everyday 8mile roundtrip. It´s perfect if you got hills. I have steep hills and just love to put in the right gear and passing other cycling people in double speed.

The weak part is the belt. I always pedal first to avoid torque stress on the belt. This is the first belt on my commuter and its holding up tight after one month commuting. On the offroader however the belt seized after only a couple of rides(overvolting 72v).
Hub is much simpler btw.
 
true, however Im putting it on a 8" dh full suspension mtb. I will trail it locally aswell as throw it on the open road for commuting to work.

Ive heard 12s1p lipo can get me 12 miles easily with its efficiency.
 
I'm running my gng kit at 12s 8ah nano tech Lipo for my commute to work. The bike is a full dh with 2.5 knobbly tyres I weigh approx 85kg. The commute is flat, on roads or paths and generally full throttle all the way with ghost pedaling only, I see around 3.5 - 4 ah depending on conditions. That's 5miles one way at around 25-30mph average top speed. It can be a lot more efficient if you baby it I've managed
25miles using around 13ah.

My third primary drive belt is ready for snapping so looking to upgrade to a chain soon and up the voltage to 16s. Not sure what the best ratio of sprockets to get yet so will hold off and see how everyone else gets on with their conversions.
 
so how bad is this kit for a 22 mile roundtrip commute..
I have a 34 mile round trip and mine kinda sucks compared to a hub motor. I am considering buying a whole different bike and just using the GNG for off-road. The extra battery consumption really adds up over the miles. I have broken 3 belts so far, and I am a little leery about the reliability as well. I hope to iron these problems out by converting to a chain.
 
Anyone in need of a belt I still have my stock one with less than 5 minutes easy run time, It is free for the cost of shipping ( maybe $5 in the states?) might as well go to someone who needs it as I am happy with my chain conversion. first come first served.
Denisesewa@aol.com
 
@haste
I have a GNG fitted to my FS Norco on road slicks with 12s 3p 15ah of nanotechs.
In top gear I can cruise a around 50km/hr drawing 15 to 17 amps. Any sign of a hill and it ramps up to the 21amps max.
I have been doing a 26km commute one way, and have found it uses about 9ah over 45 minutes, which equates to an average of 12 amps. Some peddling on hills but at 50 it almost impossible to contribute. Route is undulating, but no mountains to speak of. Early days at maybe 150 km and no signs of problems to date. Chain has derailed a few times, will invest in a keeper of some sort.
Far to say though that there are a lot of parts to wear and go wrong. Time will tell.
 
first post on here.had to make a new belt tensioner..the threaded hole in the motor is badly cracked,came like that when new.
tryed a 450 belt but that slipped.so before i try chain conversion had a go at making a new tensioner.
i used the original bearings and made the largest dia tensioner wheel that would fit,using alu and nylon bar.
bolted to a 5mm thick aluminium ring,the roller fits on a 6mm counter sunk screw.the belt is 460mm long and so far working great,12s lipos.
pictures speak for themselves.
richard
 

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richard purchon said:
first post on here.had to make a new belt tensioner..the threaded hole in the motor is badly cracked,came like that when new.
tryed a 450 belt but that slipped.so before i try chain conversion had a go at making a new tensioner.
i used the original bearings and made the largest dia tensioner wheel that would fit,using alu and nylon bar.
bolted to a 5mm thick aluminium ring,the roller fits on a 6mm counter sunk screw.the belt is 460mm long and so far working great,12s lipos.
pictures speak for themselves.
richard
Thats a pretty slick setup for anyone wanting to stick with a belt, Nice thinking outside the box !!
 
Denisesewa said:
richard purchon said:
first post on here.had to make a new belt tensioner..the threaded hole in the motor is badly cracked,came like that when new.
tryed a 450 belt but that slipped.so before i try chain conversion had a go at making a new tensioner.
i used the original bearings and made the largest dia tensioner wheel that would fit,using alu and nylon bar.
bolted to a 5mm thick aluminium ring,the roller fits on a 6mm counter sunk screw.the belt is 460mm long and so far working great,12s lipos.
pictures speak for themselves.
richard
Thats a pretty slick setup for anyone wanting to stick with a belt, Nice thinking outside the box !!
Ditto! Keep us posted as to how it holds up over miles and time, thanks!
 
My GNG drive has been stuck in US Customs amongst the tidal wave of incoming Christmas goods for THREE DAYS. At least it exists and it's out of China so I will probably get it eventually. Very frustrating to be this close and still have to wait. I'm excited to get it so I can take it apart.
 
LightningRods said:
My GNG drive has been stuck in US Customs amongst the tidal wave of incoming Christmas goods for THREE DAYS. At least it exists and it's out of China so I will probably get it eventually. Very frustrating to be this close and still have to wait. I'm excited to get it so I can take it apart.

I think my GNG order is keeping yours company! You get a route #? I haven't yet. I keep logging into my email thinking "today's the day!". not... :lol:
 
melodious said:
I think my GNG order is keeping yours company! You get a route #? I haven't yet. I keep logging into my email thinking "today's the day!". not... :lol:

Hey Melodius-
My tracking number didn't work until the shipment hit the US. The Chinese system was useless. If you enter the tracking # that you were given into the http://www.usps.com system you will know as soon as your package is in North America.
Good Luck!
Mike
 
My tracking showed it was in customs for several days as well, then it showed " out for delivery" with nothing in between, I got it that day.
Hope you guys get them before Christmas.
 
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