GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

[mwkeefer]

MWKeefer, I had the same issues you have been describing and am wondering if you are using the gng throttle, My problems went away after changing back to stock controller and stock throttle. I was running 12s 2p lipo.
Cheers
Andrew

Andrew,

Yes I am and I think you are the second person who has mentioned this... since it worked fine and then failed after continuous heavily overpowered sustained speed use, I figured hall sensors but I suppose it could be a bad hall sensor in the throttle fluxing in weaker fields (oscillating), its a cheap test / fix which I am going to check on RIGHT NOW (well in about 10 minutes when I take a ride to the store for smokes), I'll replace it at once and see if it makes any difference.

Thanks for a much easier / less invasive test than tearing apart the motor (trying to avoid nearly at all costs).

-Mike

 

[mwkeefer]

Andrew,

I just tried with a Grin throttle from eBikes.ca that I had on hand and same issue as before, I tell you the only thing I can think is that one or more of my internal halls are failing intermittently. I found an old Sensored or Sensorless controller from one of the first eBikeKit.com geared motor offerings at the office (while forgetting to measure total threaded axle length of a hub I was supposed to measure for a customer) - I think I will put this sensorless controller on the bench upstairs after a run to Radio Shack for some relays to hopefully fix my EMC1200 charger (12S20A) - the motor may just have gotten too hot (have to remember to measure for phase resistance too) and demagnetized a bit but that wouldn't explain how after that stutter period it hauls ASS.

When I test with the sensorless controller it should give me a good idea of the nature of the issue, a few bad halls - piece of cake, I have a bunch laying around (SS441A I think) - there is yet one other option which only just now dawned upon me... I can pull the motor off the running bike and replace it with the new Gen1 motor, just the motor part!

-Mike

 

[tri-lobe]

hello members...

i think that its ok to post a pic of my working gng kit set-up....in this thread...

im running 48v....16s headway....@ 12ah.....conroller to match....

sturmey archer 3 speed disc hub....

 

[E-Zero]

I am sharing some photos of my work in progress with you;

Installed LRods primary tensioner plates and a waterproof connector to the GNG in order to get the assembly as clean as possible. I also painted it black matt in order to match the fframe and... also to make it a bit less eye catching;



Also an image of the "wedding" of the dual suspension frameset with internal cable routing and my "Dark"GNG.



The next step is installing the Lyen9 and go on with the mechanicals.

Many thanks to you guys.

 

[justlooking]

I am sharing some photos of my work in progress with you;

Installed LRods primary tensioner plates and a waterproof connector to the GNG in order to get the assembly as clean as possible. I also painted it black matt in order to match the fframe and... also to make it a bit less eye catching;

View attachment 1

Also an image of the "wedding" of the dual suspension frameset with internal cable routing and my "Dark"GNG.



The next step is installing the Lyen9 and go on with the mechanicals.

Many thanks to you guys.

i painted mine gloss black yesterday for the same reason, so that it dont stand out as much ,
around where the wire go into the motor, i put several layers of contact adhesive,
i did think of feeding the wires through the frame when i put thekit on the bike, but the tubes on mine are not to big and i was worried about weekening the frame even if i managed to get the wires through it,

 

[bee]

hello members...

i think that its ok to post a pic of my working gng kit set-up....in this thread...

im running 48v....16s headway....@ 12ah.....conroller to match....

sturmey archer 3 speed disc hub....

I'd love to see more pics of that!

If you upload them to http://imgur.com/ you can show us some high resolution ones

 

[skyungjae]

People seem to have difficulty seeing past my forks. It's usually... "That's a serious looking bike..." 30 seconds later... "Is that a motor?!?" :lol:

 

[justlooking]

skyungjae
i cant remember your bike , got a picture of it m8 ??

 

[skyungjae]

skyungjae
i cant remember your bike , got a picture of it m8 ??

From the side, it's rather apparent that it's an e-bike. However, from people standing around, they usually only notice the forks. :lol:

 

[justlooking]

skyungjae
i cant remember your bike , got a picture of it m8 ??

From the side, it's rather apparent that it's an e-bike. However, from people standing around, they usually only notice the forks. :lol:

i see what you mean m8 lol ..
i like the way the rear suspension looks ,, is the bike made or did you buy it with the front and rear suspension ??

 

[skyungjae]

I bought the bike used, so everything was already there minus the GNG stuff.

 

[fom4ik]

Bike-Kona Stinky, I think

 

[Idontwanttopedal]

It could be a halfords banshee which is copy of a kona which is still a nice bike

 

[skyungjae]

Yep, it's a 2005 Kona Stinky with the frame powder coated white.

 

[skyungjae]

Hi Everyone-

I finally received the motor spindles that I ordered to machine down for 12mm output shafts. These are much longer than the GNG version but internally identical. I will be able to make 12mm output shaft much longer than needed (up to 2.4").

A couple of other options occurred to me. There is a version of this motor that has a fan on the right side opposite the drive and a longer spindle that exits the case on the right. This makes it possible to have an output shaft on either side, or for some bizarre reason, both sides.

I will be offering these spindles machined down to 12mm output shafts at the choice of length of the customer. Square keyways and threaded ends available at request.

I think it's time we get back on topic. I'm sure a lot of people are curious what progress you've made in a week. :wink:

 

[LightningRods]

I will be offering these spindles machined down to 12mm output shafts at the choice of length of the customer. Square keyways and threaded ends available at request.

I think it's time we get back on topic. I'm sure a lot of people are curious what progress you've made in a week. :wink:

Hi Skyungjae- I've been busy this week. Here's a progress report:

I have five motor spindles on hand which can be machined to the diameter and length the customer chooses. You can also add a square keyway and/or tapped hole in shaft end for retainer bolt. One of these to a customer until I figure out the demand for this part and have enough stocked. PM me if interested.

I'm going to offer TWO drive pulleys for this motor. The first is fully modeled and going to the service bureau for output today. It's an 18 tooth, 20mm wide HTD5 that slips onto the stock GNG pulley. I'll be casting these out of a zinc/aluminum/copper alloy that is stronger and more wear resistant than aluminum. The second pulley is made for the 12mm output shaft. It's an 18 tooth, 25mm wide GT2. This GT2 pulley will have about 2x the power handling capacity of the slip on version and 4x that of the stock GNG. I'll also be casting this one out of zinc alloy.

A 120 tooth, 22mm wide HTD pulley is coming soon. It will have the option of a five bolt pattern freewheel or 12mm bore hub. I'm developing a 95 tooth GT2 with the same freewheel and hub option.

I'm sourcing the materials to make a sealed jackshaft with 12mm spindle. It will fit my upper sheets and make it possible for DIY builders to scratch build their own mid drives. I will be offering jackshaft spindles to fit a variety of off the shelf pulley and sprocket sizes plus offering custom spindles.

I'm designing a screw tensioner for the upper sheets. Some users struggle with the fire drill needed to align and tension the sheets. This tensioner will make it simple.

I've sold all but one set of my new upper sheets for the GNG 1.1. Another run back from the laser shop this Friday, then another week for plating. All of my sheets are sold zinc plated now. The tensioners will be sold separately for both existing owners and new customers.

Finally, I've bought the bike I'm going to do my build on. It's a new 2013 Specialized Hard Rock 29. I also have my batteries. As soon as I get my pulleys cast I will be on the road testing them. I'll start a thread for my bike build once I have something to show.

PM me anytime. It's good to hear from you.

Mike- aka "LightningRods"

 

[rp3]

Awesome Mike! Sounds like a great line up of mods.

 

[skyungjae]

Awesome Mike! Sounds like a great line up of mods.

Dibs on the first 20mm slip on 18T pulley.

 

[bee]

Finally bent my crank enough that the chain won't stay on.

Which replacement are you guys ordering from http://cyclone-tw.com/order-chainwheel.htm ?

When I try to buy "Heavy duty DH ISIS 444432 chainwheel freewheel crank set for 68mm and 73mm" the site tries to charge me an extra $117 for shipping which brings the total to $234.

What's the most anyone has tried putting through the stock controller? I'm running mine at 2000w but I wanted to try boosting it to 2500 or 3000w.

 

[t0me]

Yeah that's the one, but we're writing to them about the postage and they're adjusting it.

 

[Chalo]

Finally bent my crank enough that the chain won't stay on.

Is that the crank or just the chainring? I true up chainrings with a rubber mallet every day. If they are really bad, I might squash them in a vise first (or just replace them). Cranks are a slightly different matter. Old cranks with flimsy spiders sometimes respond to the rubber mallet, but many don't.

 

[christerljung]

Finally bent my crank enough that the chain won't stay on.

Which replacement are you guys ordering from http://cyclone-tw.com/order-chainwheel.htm ?

When I try to buy "Heavy duty DH ISIS 444432 chainwheel freewheel crank set for 68mm and 73mm" the site tries to charge me an extra $117 for shipping which brings the total to $234.

What's the most anyone has tried putting through the stock controller? I'm running mine at 2000w but I wanted to try boosting it to 2500 or 3000w.

I bent mine too. But it was possible to straighten it in a really simple but brutal way. Turn the bike upsidedown. Rotate the crank backward and let it freewheel, now you see the chainring flexes in and out. When the chainring edge closest to you is most to the right, try to stop it there with the crankarm pointing straight up in the air.
Now get a BIG hammer and hit the crank arm hard from the right.
Rotate and see if it got better. Keep hitting and checking until the chaingring stop flexing.
I got mine even more straight whith this method then it was when it was new.

My stock controller has got upgraded FET:s, Capacitors and resistors. Haven't tested i yet but i let you know in about a week how things work out.

 

[rp3]

the site tries to charge me an extra $117 for shipping which brings the total to $234.

Have a look at this thread bee. Talking about the cheaper postage there, I got it cheaper by sending them an email too.

 

[skyungjae]

If you're dead set on getting the Cyclone chain ring / BB / and cranks, you're best off sending Paco an email. At first, I only ordered the BB and crank arms, and used my own chain ring set up. Paco is really good at negotiating shipping.

 

[skyungjae]

On another note, those of you who have done the shunt mod, what type of soldering iron did you use and at what temperatures? My cheapo pencil style 30W can't handle a job of this magnitude... and it's broken.