GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

Oops. Here is the auction, which calls it 3rd gen:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-250W-MID-ELECTRIC-MOTORIZED-E-BIKE-CONVERSION-KIT-3rd-version-/200900038918?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec6935106

This is their site, but the same kit doesn't say 3rd gen:

http://www.gngebike.com/

Thanks.
 
My primary belt skipped today. Since it wasn't a catastrophic failure, I was able to ride home by being gentle with the throttle. It skipped when accelerating from a stop with wide-open-throttle (I was in traffic). I have a stock GNG controller, no shunt mod yet.

I put a new Goodyear belt on that I bought in anticipation of this eventuality. I was impressed by how much quieter the bike is with the new belt. The original belt got louder as it wore out.

I estimate that the first belt lasted 180 miles. The last 40 miles, I had not been gentle on the throttle since I had the spare belt and new rapid trigger shifter. I weigh 265 pounds, the bike with battery is about 60 pounds and I often have a backpack with maybe 10 - 15 pounds. So for a 340 pound load on mostly flats or mild hills and occasional steep hills (onroad), the original belt got me 180 miles. The Goodyear has been reported to last at least 3 times longer.

The belt is easy to change, but they cost $8-$10 not including shipping. At this rate, replacing the belt is well over a 10x bigger expense than the electricity to run the bike.

Has someone worked out a reversible primary chain mod that does not involve filing down the motor shaft yet?
 
kifukarider said:
My primary belt skipped today. Since it wasn't a catastrophic failure, I was able to ride home by being gentle with the throttle. It skipped when accelerating from a stop with wide-open-throttle (I was in traffic). I have a stock GNG controller, no shunt mod yet.

I put a new Goodyear belt on that I bought in anticipation of this eventuality. I was impressed by how much quieter the bike is with the new belt. The original belt got louder as it wore out.

I estimate that the first belt lasted 180 miles. The last 40 miles, I had not been gentle on the throttle since I had the spare belt and new rapid trigger shifter. I weigh 265 pounds, the bike with battery is about 60 pounds and I often have a backpack with maybe 10 - 15 pounds. So for a 340 pound load on mostly flats or mild hills and occasional steep hills (onroad), the original belt got me 180 miles. The Goodyear has been reported to last at least 3 times longer.

The belt is easy to change, but they cost $8-$10 not including shipping. At this rate, replacing the belt is well over a 10x bigger expense than the electricity to run the bike.

Has someone worked out a reversible primary chain mod that does not involve filing down the motor shaft yet?
Click to expand...

I tightened my belt after it started skipping. If the Goodyear belt lasts 3x longer, then I can go ~1500 miles between belt changes. :p
 
skyungjae said:
I tightened my belt after it started skipping. If the Goodyear belt lasts 3x longer, then I can go ~1500 miles between belt changes. :p
Click to expand...

You might want to consider turning your belt in the other direction. Since most of the wear is on one side of the belt teeth, rotating the belt might increase longevity. I think I'll try this with my new belt, maybe reverse the belt every couple weeks.

I've gone for a ride now since the belt change and it's magnificent. Maybe better than new performance. I was really starting to feel decreased performance before the tooth stripped.

If I could get 1500 miles from a belt, I'd be satisfied with the belt system. 540 miles though, not as much. I think my problem now is that I'm still running stock amps. I hope the new belt holds when I do the shunt mod.
 
Reversed my shunt mod most of the way as it was way too much torque for the secondary and final sides of the drive train. I left a bit of solder on it, but it is more controllable now and still much more torque than stock.

The little standard 25 chain seems un-challenged, but much play has developed in the 13 tooth acs freewheel. Will need to check it out soon before it come undone. The stock belt would most likely have let go much before the problems I am starting to see down stream began. Will see how it all holds up over the summer.

Did some max speed runs with the bike and it tops out just at 40 mph on a very slight downward grade in the 53-12, the cells measured just under 4 volts after the runs. With the 12s setup it seems to run comfy around 25 mph and holds 18- 20 on some short climbs without pushing it too hard, that otherwise have me hurting on my road bike at 13 - 14 mph.

I have to admit, that after riding the ebike a bit, I feel totally anemic riding the pedal (light weight carbon racing) bike. I catch myself looking down at the tires to see if they are going flat. :?
 
Dabbed a bit of solder on the shunt last night.
The ride this morning was very different, it liberated about 60-80% more watts according to my CA.
Amps maxed at 37, up from a max of 22 yesterday.

It's all torque! Glad I've got some additional belts on the way.
Need to sort out my throttle sensitivity too - I can imagine it getting me into trouble if I don't have it a little more gradual.
Hopefully the magura & a resistor will spread out the curve.

I switched to 11t single speed, and was pondering switching to a much bigger cog, but the shunt mod has removed the immediate need for that with gobs of torque.
But so I can put in a couple of pedal strokes from a standstill before throttle I've got a 15t on the way from CRC (pic below) with a wider base so I don't kill my 9spd freewheel with the skinny single 9spd cog. Just want things running reliably and I think this will spread the power to the freewheel body over a broader area.

17775.jpg
 
Tinto said:
But so I can put in a couple of pedal strokes from a standstill before throttle I've got a 15t on the way from CRC (pic below) with a wider base so I don't kill my 9spd freewheel with the skinny single 9spd cog. Just want things running reliably and I think this will spread the power to the freewheel body over a broader area.

17775.jpg
Click to expand...

That will be easier on your freehub splines, and a little easier on your chain, but harder on your freehub ratchet. Be aware for unfamiliar noises or unusual hesitation in engaging or disengaging (freewheeling in the drive direction before catching, or carrying the chainring forward instead of overrunning).
 
Thanks Chalo - something is a bit slippy at the moment.
I'll be doing some investigation / lubing this weekend of the whole drivetrain to confirm.

I'm curious as to why the broader base cog will be harder on the freewheel than the skinnier cog.
I was only thinking of load through the splines - I hadn't really pondered that I could kill the freewheel ratchet any more than if I left the 9 speed cassette back there.
 
Hello Sphere, first I would like to say thank you, for some truly inspiring conversations, I know nothing about what you guys are talking about, however you have inspired me to try this kit.

I was hoping that Lightning rods kit world be ready, as he has been a great help, in helping me get started.

I think some of the feed back from this site has made it's way to china, as my kit was packed well.

DSCN2449.JPG
View attachment 2
DSCN2452.JPG
DSCN2457.JPG
 
I got 4 of these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16228__ZIPPY_Flightmax_8000mAh_6S1P_30C_.html . They just fit my frame.

Over a 20 mile range. I had to wait for them. With six of the nano's you will most likely get some significant range.

I got the thunder charger http://www.hobbypartz.com/75p-1220-charger.html and a 300w 12v power supply off of ebay. Excellent setup once I got it all wired.

GNG, I gave them some crap about the loose packing. Suggested they bag the heavy parts tightly/tape before adding fill. They seem to be responsive.

cheers
 
Kingwouldbe said:
I am looking at getting 6 of these and putting them together,

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=21431

I was wondering what charger would you guy recommend.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Let me know how it goes. I've been wanting to get four of those, but they are rather pricy. I may go with the Zippy Compact 6S 5800mAh which are like half the price. Sure, I'll only have an 11.6Ah pack vs 16Ah, but paying double for an additional 4Ah seems kinda steep. I suppose the quality of the Turnigy batteries are much higher as well.

I don't know too much about chargers. My Turnigy and parallel charge/balance board seems to be working fine.

People seem to like this one:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/75p-1220-charger.html

I'd still like to find a way to charge up my pack without having to take it apart and plug each individual battery into my parallel charge/ balance board. :(

Kingwouldbe said:
skyungjae, I see your in Southern California, and I'm also in So Cal. in Valencia by magic mountain.

Your post and rides have inspired me, thanks
Click to expand...

Always glad to spread the word. I bet there's a lot of great riding spots where you live.

I really do mean to take more footage, but it's very rare that I stop to take shots. I'll be helping a couple of friends build up their GNG 1.1 / Cyclone e-bikes. One of them has a GoPro, so I hope to have some better footage of bigger jumps and more technical courses. I do feel I should take more videos of the GNG's climbing abilities though. :lol:
 
There are better power supplies to feed the RC chargers than this, but...it is the cheapest one I would recommend. I had a cheaper one at first and it died pretty fast. This one has a metal shell and most importantly, it has a fan to keep it from overheating. You might need to acquire a standard computer power cord, but they are cheap at any thrift shop, or big-box store (The pic shows the power cord as included, but mine was missing). It has two power outlets to feed two RC chargers, and two 22V strings to make a 44V pack, which is getting common.

$40, 350W, 14V / 25A

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=23465#p341300
A30.jpg


edit: this is getting to be a bit of a thread-drift, but...if my current power supply burned out, I think I would upgrade to neptronix's $80 (shipping included) 24V / 1,000W power-supply. I suspect it would last the rest of my life.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=45361
 
I ended up replacing my modified computer power supply with this one:

HobbyKing 540w 100~120v Power Supply (13.8v~18v - 30amp) (USA Warehouse)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...er_Supply_13_8v_18v_30amp_USA_Warehouse_.html

My PC power supply would crap out if I set the charge above 10A. At 10A, it would take FOREVER parallel charging five 8400mAh LiFePO4 batteries.

It definitely doesn't have the value of spinningmagnet's PS at $30 extra, but it does come with a power cable (the selling point. just kidding) and almost 200 more W. :wink:
 
Kingwouldbe said:
I am looking at getting 6 of these and putting them together,

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=21431

I was wondering what charger would you guy recommend.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...


If you are going to go the HK route, get the Turnigy FatBoy charger.

Wishes
 
Wishes: Thanks for your recommendation, because I know nothing, why would you recommend that one?

speedmd: Thanks for the links and help, suggestions and why you recommend it.

skyungjae: When I say, I know nothing, I'm not kidding, It seems I need a charger and a power supply ?

spinningmagnets: I really want to thanks you for all the work you do here, and your selfless sharing of knowledge.
I think you posted a pic of a power supply unit? and that would be plugged into the wall and then plug the charger into that ?

Q: on the battery recommendations, of course I want the best for the least, that's just wisdom, the nano-tech seemed to be the best out there, however double the price is not the direction I want to go, so is there other options to get 48V & around 20-24mAh, for less money, yet still keeping the weight down.

Also, will I have to charge each battery separately or can I charge all 6 at the same time?

When I tell you guys I don't know anything, I am still farther down on the evolution chain, I just barley sprouted thumbs........ Cro-Magnon is my cousin...... it wasn't that long-ago that I stood up right.......most of the time, you guys are speaking Japanese ( no offence to the Japanese, I just have no Idea what your saying ) you guys have your own langue.

You can NOT say it simple enough.... :shock: lol, please don't loose patience with me, I can learn, but I might learn slowly :oops:

The Endless-sphere, is an amazing community, truly blessed to get to read about your projects, unfortunately I will not be able to contribute any technical information, however, I will post about my adventures, using the information I have gained from being here.
 
Thanks to all the contributions from this forum, I have almost finished my gng build and I have posted the details at http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=52029#p770934

With this setup and using the Goodyear belt with 3000 Watts, it actually manages to last about 600 km. Waiting on parts to proceed with my chain upgrade.

Wishes
 
Kingwouldbe, welcome. there are millions of RC model users who charge their model LiPo batteries (for RC cars, planes, helicopters, etc) from their cars 12V system while they are at the park. It is not uncommon to have several packs for one model, so batteries can be swapped out, and the enjoyment can continue while the low packs are charging.

Because of this, most RC chargers accept a "dumb" 12V DC input, which the smart-charger converts to 5S (18V) and 6S (22V). You can even fine tune the top of the charge to 4.10V per cell, 4.15, or even a risky 4.20V...in order to sqeeze out an extra few minutes of run-time.

The higher the input voltage an RC charger will accept, the higher the wattage it can output. 12V is a common input. Many will accept anything between 10V and 18V, and some will even accept an input of up to 24V.

There are some chargers that have the power supply built into one housing with the charger.

Perhaps you could start a new thread in the battery section, and you could get a lot of LiPo users to list their charging set-up, and if they like it, or would like to soon upgrade?...
 
Kingwouldbe said:
Wishes: Thanks for your recommendation, because I know nothing, why would you recommend that one?
Click to expand...


The Turnigy Fatboy is a clone of the Powerlabs 8. Which is a highly rated charger. This Turnigy version is an exact copy, the LCD even loads with Powerlabs 8 logo on it. Only the outside stickers are different. And it is almost half the price of the PowerLabs. It is also the strongest charger on HK, capable of charging up to 1300 Watts and can handle input voltage up to 24 volts. This means it can charge faster and/or handle more parallel charging. Although I'm sure I'm going to get flamed for even mentioning parallel charging, many peeps are way tooo paranoid.

The Turnigy FatBoy is an awesome charger, but not the least expensive of options from HobbyKing. You can get the job done with other models that have been suggested.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21823__turnigy_fatboy_8_1300w_workstation_charger.html

Wishes
 
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