gknowes
10 mW
Hi LightningRods looks like your having too much FUN !!! Looks like everything is coming together 
Like a light bulb 
Like a light bulb 
GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400
- Thread starter spinningmagnets
- Start date
OldRetiredGuy
1 µW
LR, that is an absolutely amazing fit!
And as I understand it, you are planning on making a mold from that printed piece and make copies with some sort of metallic epoxy?? And then attach that ring over/onto the largest existing GNG pulley? (I might be confused by seeing the earlier printed belt cog cylinder that slipped over and enlarged the small belt drive pulley attached to the GNG motor.)
It really is incredible that parts that used to have to be machined can actually be made via printing an original and then molding copies!! And lastly, that chemical molding compositions are now strong enough to hold up to what used to require metal?
You really are doing some very creative stuff!!
And as I understand it, you are planning on making a mold from that printed piece and make copies with some sort of metallic epoxy?? And then attach that ring over/onto the largest existing GNG pulley? (I might be confused by seeing the earlier printed belt cog cylinder that slipped over and enlarged the small belt drive pulley attached to the GNG motor.)
It really is incredible that parts that used to have to be machined can actually be made via printing an original and then molding copies!! And lastly, that chemical molding compositions are now strong enough to hold up to what used to require metal?
You really are doing some very creative stuff!!
LightningRods
1 MW
OldRetiredGuy said:
I've already made a mold of that part and poured resin which is setting up now. I should have the cured casting within an hour. The urethane I'm using doesn't have metal particles in it although I'm sure they could be mixed in. I chose this particular urethane resin because of it's hardness, abrasion resistance and ability to stay rigid up to 270 degrees F.
This ring is just a test to see how the final casting fits the belt before committing to printing the entire pulley. I'm not making a slip on for the 80 tooth GNG pulley. On this large one I decided to start from scratch so I could move the freewheel over from the secondary side. I posted this rendering of the CAD model before but here it is again:
LightningRods
1 MW
Fresh out of the mold here it is, a perfect test casting:
After the better part of a year spent wrestling with this problem I think I've beaten it. I can make GT2 or HTD pulleys of any pitch, width or tooth count that I want. Best of all I can cast as many as are needed right in my own shop. I'm going to order the 3D print of the full pulley prototype today. I should be casting by this time next week.
After the better part of a year spent wrestling with this problem I think I've beaten it. I can make GT2 or HTD pulleys of any pitch, width or tooth count that I want. Best of all I can cast as many as are needed right in my own shop. I'm going to order the 3D print of the full pulley prototype today. I should be casting by this time next week.
speedmd
10 MW
Are you sure you are not looking at two different hardness scales. Seems hard to believe unless it is a very highly filled resin.
scriberman
1 µW
Are you making the mold from silicone? Are you degassing the resin? Looks a quality job.
LightningRods
1 MW
scriberman said:
Yes the mold is silicone. I have not been degassing but I'm going to look into it. The pot time on this particular resin is about 3 1/2 minutes and part of that is taken up in mixing and the long pour for a large piece like this pulley. I'm not sure if there's time to degas and do the rest of the things that need to be done. That's my one beef with this material, it doesn't allow much time to work with it before it starts to go off. Otherwise it seems perfect for pulley use.
Here's another pulley mold that I made using the blue silicone:
skyungjae
10 kW
Looking good Mike!
I'm curious how things would work out with my 13T ACS freewheel with the wider belt & sheets upgrade.
I'm curious how things would work out with my 13T ACS freewheel with the wider belt & sheets upgrade.
LightningRods
1 MW
skyungjae said:
Thanks John!
Initially I'm going to offer the big pulley with a freewheel in the center. Once I have some orders in and recover financially I'm going to have a freewheel sized flange with 12mm center adapter made. So you can choose which side to have your freewheel on. My main reason for moving the freewheel over was to be able to run #219 sprockets and chain on the secondary side.
The CAD model is going in to the service bureau for printing today.
TorEddy
100 W
You're my hero Mike
My bike is standing useless, waiting for your missing parts..
Once you have the parts ready, i will place an order.
Slip on motor pulley + Big pulley with eno freewheel + matching GT2 belt + secondary 219 pulley and chainring + crankarms with freewheel and BB (hopefully).
If i can source all this from you, you have made a pretty useless kit, VERY good.. With a Magura throttle, this should be a killer setup..
Any recommendations for a controller if 2-4KW on 12-18s is the target?
Tord
My bike is standing useless, waiting for your missing parts..
Once you have the parts ready, i will place an order.
Slip on motor pulley + Big pulley with eno freewheel + matching GT2 belt + secondary 219 pulley and chainring + crankarms with freewheel and BB (hopefully).
If i can source all this from you, you have made a pretty useless kit, VERY good.. With a Magura throttle, this should be a killer setup..
Any recommendations for a controller if 2-4KW on 12-18s is the target?
Tord
TorEddy said:You're my hero Mike
My bike is standing useless, waiting for your missing parts..
Once you have the parts ready, i will place an order.
Slip on motor pulley + Big pulley with eno freewheel + matching GT2 belt + secondary 219 pulley and chainring + crankarms with freewheel and BB (hopefully).
If i can source all this from you, you have made a pretty useless kit, VERY good.. With a Magura throttle, this should be a killer setup..
Any recommendations for a controller if 2-4KW on 12-18s is the target?
Tord
I'm in a similar situation myself :lol:
skyungjae
10 kW
LightningRods said:
I guess I'm gonna have to wait a little longer. :wink: I'd like to keep my costs down as well. The government shutdown has definitely had its toll on my household.
Anyhow, are you still going to be phasing out the gen 1 adjustable sheets and make that billet sealed tube so us 1.0 users can use your new sheets with tensioners?
I figure, I'll go with the 20mm belt upgrade and sheets keeping everything on the drive/secondary side the way it is now.
Thanks!
LightningRods
1 MW
TorEddy said:You're my hero Mike
My bike is standing useless, waiting for your missing parts..
Once you have the parts ready, i will place an order.
Slip on motor pulley + Big pulley with eno freewheel + matching GT2 belt + secondary 219 pulley and chainring + crankarms with freewheel and BB (hopefully).
If i can source all this from you, you have made a pretty useless kit, VERY good.. With a Magura throttle, this should be a killer setup..
Any recommendations for a controller if 2-4KW on 12-18s is the target?
Tord
That's so great to hear, Tord! We'll get your bike tricked out and out on the trails!
I have all of the parts for you except the controller. Everyone seems to love Lyen's controllers. http://www.lyen.com/
I bought an Infineon from ebikes.com because they also specialize in the Cycle Analyst and I wanted an integrated package. http://www.ebikes.ca/store/store_controllers.php I believe that Lyen also makes C-A ready controllers. The Infineon I bought is good up to 72V 40 amps which is as much battery as I want to carry.
I am phasing the original Gen 1 sheets out. My own GNG is an original Gen 1.0 with open jackshaft. I made a one-off aluminum billet jackshaft housing for my own bike. I'll be offering these to other 1.0 owners and of course people who buy a loose motor and want to build up a kit. I realized that the two 100mm BB shell bikes I'm working on right now will need custom 100 mm jackshafts and housings to make the primary and secondary drives line up. There always seems to be some part you need that you can't get!
The finished CAD file for the big pulley went in to the service bureau today. End of this week or beginning of next they'll ship the prototype to me and I'll make a mold and start casting pulleys. I already have the drivers ready and have sourced 25mm GT2 belts locally.
Thanks for all of your encouragement and support. There is no way I could be doing this without Endless-Sphere.
skyungjae
10 kW
Looking forward to that billet sealed jackshaft for my 1.0. The jackshaft actually rusts, so I have to put a thin coat of oil on it after cleaning the bike.
gknowes
10 mW
LightingRods 100mm set sounds like my next bike build gng on a fatty
LightningRods
1 MW
Those fatty bikes like Denise has really seem to want the Big Block. :-D
2020freerider
1 mW
LightningRods said:
Hi Mike,
This is pretty exiting stuff!
I'll be ready to place an order as soon as your ready to take them. When do you think they'll hit your store?
Cheers,
Joe
Dauntless
100 TW
LightningRods said:
Dang, haven't seen such a short pot life for silicone, other than for vacuum transfer. If you pour HIGH, that dissipates air bubbles somewhat.
Don't know how big a bell jar you need, but this might handle a small mix. Don't know how many inches this would pull, but if it makes water boil that's got to be over 15. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bell-in-vacuum-jar-sound-physics-demonstration-demo-water-boil-air-pressure-New-/261189584331
Or you can get a vaccum pump at Harbor Freight and do it the old fashioned way. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bell-Jar-and-Vacuum-Plate-Combo-1-gal-/281121111824
You might consider urethane, not as easy to work with but more durable and you can cast more parts from a single mold. Cheaper too, with less need of degassing.
gwhy!1
100 kW
im sure that is not the pot life for the silicone. I think that is for the resin.
LightningRods
1 MW
Dauntless said:
Gwhy is correct. The molds are silicone rubber, the cast parts are urethane resin. The pot life and cure time on the silicone is too long if anything. I have to let the molds sit overnight before removing the pattern part. I have no bubbles in the molds. The bubbles I see on the cast parts are tiny (like pin pricks) and seem to sit at the highest point of the pour. There are lots of places to get vacuum chambers. The issue is how long it takes the pump to evacuate the chamber and then for the resin to rise and fall. Like I said I barely have time to get the pour into the mold before the two part resin goes off. I may get a small Harbor Freight vacuum set up just to experiment with.
gwhy!1
100 kW
the long setting resins tend to also be a little stronger and the fact that they take a little longer to set this allows more time for the trapped bubbles to get to the top. A good way to get all the air out of the resin after the pour in to put the mold ( with the pour) onto a vibrating platform, this normally releases all the air before it sets.
beast775
100 kW
Excellent work ,im waiting till spring to start another build and im guessing youre gonna have the whole shitandkaboodle by then.will be interesting to see if the vacuum will work?
,im waiting till spring to start another build and im guessing youre gonna have the whole shitandkaboodle by then.will be interesting to see if the vacuum will work?
spinningmagnets
100 TW
There is also the possibility that colder resin may take longer to set. The colder resin might be thicker from the coldness, but it could provide more time for the bubbles to rise. Hadn't thought about a vibrating stand, that is what concrete setters do for columns...sounds like it would help?
gwhy!1
100 kW
spinningmagnets said:
It do help
but the vibrations needs to be turned off just at the right time before the resin really starts to set.Similar threads
