GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

[LightningRods]

The engine cover had to stay out of aluminum foil so the challenge now 0 silicone will stretch the chains without the adjustable plates Mike, will be a little headache

It looks a little bit scary now, Antonio, but your bikes always turn out beautiful. I'm sure this one will also.

I wonder what it would cost to get gaskets laser cut?

 

[dezellis]

Hi,
Can someone confirm the stock GNG 48v 450w motor bearing sizes?
From previous searches I believe these are 6201 and 6203. I purchased two SKF bearings 6201-2RSH and 6203-2RSH but I would appreciate confirmation before I strip the motor.
When the motor is re-assembled is standard clear silicon sealer suitable to re-seal this?

Regards
Dez Ellis

 

[spinningmagnets]

If you are sealing a motor because you are going to add some ATF as a liquid coolant, I recommend using automotive high-temp silicone sealant that is made for automatic transmissions. The common household clear silicone may work (IDK), but It worth a couple extra bucks to me so I only have to seal the motor case once.

 

[comradegerry]

Just in case anyone was curious how a GNG motor might look inside a Greyborg frame.

Just waiting on a few upgrade parts from LR to complete the install.

The canopy will need tweeking but it should hide all the trouser catching spinning bits quite safely.

 

[Denisesewa]

Yamabond availible at any Yamaha motorcycle shop is the best sealer I've ever used, When sealing engine and motor cases remember, a little goes a long way, all that extra material does nothing but make a mess, apply a small even bead of sealer approx half the width of the surface, let it dry enough to skin over and then assemble.
Yamabond dries grey which looks nice on aluminum.

 

[Muapeia]

Yamabond dries grey which looks nice on aluminum.
Re: GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400
by comradegerry » Fri Dec 27, 2013 11:23 am
Just in case anyone was curious how a GNG motor might look inside a Greyborg frame.
[/quote
0 silicone I am using is of high tenacity up to 260 ¤ C we have used mine and it's great engines are always dry after washing bikes with high-pressure machine

 

[Muapeia]

The engine cover had to stay out of aluminum foil so the challenge now 0 silicone will stretch the chains without the adjustable plates Mike, will be a little headache

It looks a little bit scary now, Antonio, but your bikes always turn out beautiful. I'm sure this one will also.

I wonder what it would cost to get gaskets laser cut?Mike has every reason today I could finish this project I had in mind from the beginning I wanted to make my own kit home made hence the rustic look of my kit, made ​​with half a dozen homemade tools, I acquired my first engine big blok a few months before having the original kit of GNG and just bought the original kit to see how it was mounted, I put in my version freeweel in the primary sector the result is much better just to see that reel made ​​of 12 teeth caps recycled bottle caps and just burst and spread the balls all in the middle of the mountain and having to back pedal a DH bike home my kit was lighter and seemingly more durable but I have to re-add their adjustable plates above this kit made by me and do a mixed two kit, s
PS. I hope to see the kit in action at the beginning of the year
We're all curious to see this monster devouring mountains of torque, hug

 

[Muapeia]

Today I finally did the ultimate test of my new kit went for a beautiful walk up to one of the beaches and the way was mayor rode the currents without using adjustable Mike plates are the way that less noise is slightly above the original belt kit gng, the maximum vocidade obtained was measured by GPS mayor 64km tomorrow I will test the kit on track downwil that exist in the mountains in the photos survive those climbs ranging from sea level up to 520m asl.

 

[dbaker]

Great photos Looks like minimum motor teeth in chain. You could run the chain inside your idler pulley for longer sprocket life.

 

[Muapeia]

Today I made tests on the slopes with my DH bike, were very intense tests and the result was my 5km always very steep uphill climb my battery started to burn in my back inside the backpack, the total panic, I thought it might explode on my back lintium the 48v bsmbattery troqui went to get another battery lipo4 48 and this time on the same track of DH, the secondary current 8mm gold color made ​​of brass and copper left the nest conclusion is that this little motor and too powerful to use a bycicle vei is a constant source of expense but it brings a lot of adrenaline

 

[LightningRods]

The end result looks great, Antonio. Just what I would expect from one of your bikes.

Dbaker has a good point about the idler tensioner on the primary chain. If the idler pushed the chain in rather than out it would engage more teeth in the small driver sprocket. Both driver sprocket and chain would last longer.

Gates recommends that all belt idlers push out like Antonio's design so as to not reverse bend the belt. Of course it has the same effect of disengaging teeth on the driver pulley which is why we don't want to use idlers with belts. Reverse bends are not a problem on chain.

The motor pulled so much current that it melted your battery pack?

The GNG fits very nicely in the Greyborg, Comradegerry. It's like they were made for each other. I'll look forward to supplying you with parts to get it all tricked out.

 

[rodgah]

Christmas came early!

100 beautiful 1.375"-24tpi to 12mm bore adapters, machined from 6061 aluminum alloy.

They fit the freewheel perfectly, no forcing a mismatched thread, and have exactly the right offset for the pulley. We are in business! Dec 26th I start filling orders for the complete 25mm wide GT belt drive.

Hey LR,
I dont want to rain on your parade but are those adapters tapered thread? If not the freewheel is screw forced up against that shoulder on the outside edge. Though the shoulder does look thicker than the items we used to get, the amount of time I and a few others got out of them was very short in ye ES olden days.....

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=12768&hilit=burtie+kona+stinky&start=95
(the thumbnails are screwed but the originals are fine)

Matt (recumpence) is able to get so much power through a free wheel adaptor by using WI ENO freewheels which step down in ID on the side the removal boss is, so therefore needing no shoulder. Using WI freehweels isnt obviously a cost effective GNG solution, so maybe epoxy instead?

 

[byebyepetrol]

Sorry for firing off a noob bullet; what's the point of the adapters?

 

[spinningmagnets]

The GNG has turned out to have wonderful potential, even better that it was fist imagined when just looking at it. When the first kits started arriving, it was obvious there were several glaring weaknesses. LightningRods has started one-by-one making upgrade parts to improve the basic kit, but buyers still had to buy the whole GNG kit and then throw away half of it.

These shaft adapters are the last piece needed for LR to sell a full kit directly to the customer. Now, you only pay for the parts and the shipping once...and all the parts work as advertised. Plus he is located in the US so he can respond quickly to any issues that arise for North American builders.

Other than that, they are nothing special. They accept the well-known flanged freewheels from White-Industries "ENO", and also the mid-priced ACS-Crossfire, so the pulley on the belt side of the drive will freewheel. By moving the jackshaft freewheel from the chainring side to the motor-shaft side (in the LR re-design), you can use a smaller sprocket on the chainring side, which helps the reduction quite a bit. It's a long story why lots of reduction is good, just know that it is much better than the stock GNG kit by a large margin.

The bore is 12mm. If it was 1/2-inch (12.7mm), that would have been acceptable, but a bore shim for 12mm customers would add some flex and play into the pulley runout. A 12mm bore means that 1/2-inch customers can have a local shop bore it out a hair for a perfect fit.

Also, there are several available motors that already have a 12mm shaft, so this adapter has a wider customer base than just the GNG kit, for non-hub drives. This gives experimenters more choices. If there is a sudden shortage of hub-motors due to a trade agreement issue with China or a spike-up in gasoline prices, the non-hub builds will have a sudden growth in interest.

 

[boltedjolt]

Hi guys new here, been trolling around the site, and decide to build a e bike. I went with gng chain drive kit running 60 volt. Its fast and a blast to ride. built on a mongoose xr pro 29er. Only problem I ran into so far is keeping the chain on. If you guys have any advise on how to keep it from falling off let me know thanks

 

[spinningmagnets]

The derailleur helps guide the chain onto the rear sprocket, so some builders have found that it also helps if the chain has a second guide just before it goes onto the top of the chainring. There are several brands and styles of chainguide, but if you start searching for "chainguide" you will see what I mean. In this pic, it's the white thing above the chainring.

 

[r3volved]

Hi guys new here, been trolling around the site, and decide to build a e bike. I went with gng chain drive kit running 60 volt. Its fast and a blast to ride. built on a mongoose xr pro 29er. Only problem I ran into so far is keeping the chain on. If you guys have any advise on how to keep it from falling off let me know thanks

Did you shorten your chain?
You don't need the extra chain length after losing your large front chainring. I dropped about 3-4 full links from my chain and haven't had any problems since.

 

[boltedjolt]

Hi guys new here, been trolling around the site, and decide to build a e bike. I went with gng chain drive kit running 60 volt. Its fast and a blast to ride. built on a mongoose xr pro 29er. Only problem I ran into so far is keeping the chain on. If you guys have any advise on how to keep it from falling off let me know thanks

Did you shorten your chain?
You don't need the extra chain length after losing your large front chainring. I dropped about 3-4 full links from my chain and haven't had any problems since.

Hey never thought of that gonna try that today. Thanks.

 

[skyungjae]

Mongoose XR Pro 29er? I built one up from the frame up recently, and I ride it pretty hard. I know there's no way the standard GNG spindle would be able to handle my riding.

Do you do any bumpy off road, jumps, and drops?

If so, I'd recommend looking into one of cyclone ISIS BB cranksets.

It'll give you two usable chain rings up front and the front derailleur will do a good job keeping the chain on.

http://www.cyclone-tw.com/order-chainwheel.htm

148mm DH ISIS BB 444432T chainwheel freewheel crank set for 68mm and 73mm frame 117 USD Upgrade 5 holes freewheel to 10 holes heavy duty freewheel only cost extra 10 USD

The upgraded freewheel is worth it as well. The 5 hole Dicta only lasted me two - three really dusty trail rides.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ISIS-Bottom...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a35547c2b
Quick eBay search brought this up. It already has the upgraded freewheel and the price is negotiable.

 

[boltedjolt]

That's pretty awesome. I just install the kit so gonna ride it till it fails first. Thanks for the info.

 

[ten.ring]

can any of you sparky types. make some comments about what I might expect from this motor at 60 or 70 volts. the low rpm is very intriguing. much less gear reduction! I do very well with the mechanical engineering part but am not up to getting much out of the graph tables.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190895260673&item=190895260673&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466



mark

 

[Wishes]

can any of you sparky types. make some comments about what I might expect from this motor at 60 or 70 volts. the low rpm is very intriguing. much less gear reduction! I do very well with the mechanical engineering part but am not up to getting much out of the graph tables.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190895260673&item=190895260673&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466



mark

This motor likes to rev. I have run it at its stock 48 volt, stock 60 volts, 75 volt and 100 volts keeping the AMPs at 40 max. It runs great, doesn't heat up and is quite efficient.

Wishes

 

[t0me]

re: chain guides.
I've done a couple of mods for mine. Time will tell how well they work.
Firstly, bottom chain guide, I used the bracket from a reflector. Strapped to the lower swingarm. Added a little pvc pipe but some heatshrink apparently works. Got that idea from Youtube.
For the top chain guide, I added a bit of steel to my top deraileur and then bolted a wheel from a rear deraileur to it. That sits on top of the chain so effectively the top of the chain can't move its sandwiched between two sprockets.
Doesn't appear to be adding much drag. A little noise from the bottom guide though.

There's some pics on the thread for my current build - http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?uid=31650&f=28&t=56357&start=0#p839416

 

[boltedjolt]

I shorten the chain by 4 links and that seem to do the trick. Now ran into another problem. While flying under full throttle the rear gears started to skipping so I back off the throttle and then nothing. Motor won't turn. Check all connections everything is connected properly. Took apart the control box and nothing pop I am running 2 29.6 25c lipo battery tested at 30 volt a peices. Any body had this problem?

 

[skyungjae]

I shorten the chain by 4 links and that seem to do the trick. Now ran into another problem. While flying under full throttle the rear gears started to skipping so I back off the throttle and then nothing. Motor won't turn. Check all connections everything is connected properly. Took apart the control box and nothing pop I am running 2 29.6 25c lipo battery tested at 30 volt a peices. Any body had this problem?

You might have a phantom connection if you're using that yellow box. Try fiddling with those wires... better yet, get rid of that yellow box.

Andersons work much better. :wink: