GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

[boltedjolt]

No yellow box. My connection were soldier on. When I plug the battery into the controller there's an ark so I guess there's powered going to it. Is it possible that the motor is bad?

 

[t0me]

Only so many components in the system.
Throttle, controller, motor. You're getting an arc so says there's voltage (how many volts? Is there a BMS?)
I'd be looking to eliminate the throttle or controller being the problem before suspecting the motor.

On mine just recently, it was the controller that died. Jammed up the chain on secondary side, that caused the primary side to snap, and the next time I tried to use it after replacing the chain, half a turn from the motor and then nothing, just dead. I replaced the controller (with a Lyen one) and the motor started working again but not quite right, that problem then turned out to be my modified throttle. Changed that too and its all good again.

 

[boltedjolt]

How do I test throttle? I took it apart but looks fine.

 

[Wishes]

How do I test throttle? I took it apart but looks fine.

Take a volt reading from it. It should have 3 wires, 1 ground, 1 positive and 1 signal. Voltage between the ground and positive should be 5 volts. The signal wire should deliver around 1.2 volts at idle to 4 volts WOT. That is the rough range the HAL throttle signal wire works with. I'm sure someone on the forums can give you more specific measurements for this, but making sure you have voltage on that signal wire can at least tell you if the throttle is dead or not.

I hope it helps.

Wishes

 

[boltedjolt]

Tested every thing and it checks out. Leaning towards the controller not switching on. Is there a fix for this? Key wire is soldier on to positive if your wondering. Anybody got stock gang 60volt controller for sale?

 

[Wishes]

Tested every thing and it checks out. Leaning towards the controller not switching on. Is there a fix for this? Key wire is soldier on to positive if your wondering. Anybody got stock gang 60volt controller for sale?

If the controller is dead, then you should not have any voltage on the throttle? Do you have voltage on the throttle and the motor still doesn't turn?

Wishes

 

[boltedjolt]

Yes there's voltage on the throttle. I tested the signal wire and it's increased voltage as I twist the throttle. There's resistant on the motor when everything is plugged in and everything disconnected it spins fairly easy. I open the controller and one feet seem to be discolored as it look burnt.

 

[boltedjolt]

Ok so order a Lyne 9feet control now working. HAPPY! But now wondering how do I mod the controller to deliver more power?

 

[chucho]

Hello,
After reading all the posts i am nearly sure this will be my next motor for my new proyect. But i have doubt... i dont now if it could fit my DH frame And if i can fit it how low would it be.
Cause if it is too low i could brake it against rocks

What do you think guys?

Pd: My bicycle is a Kona Entourage

Thank you all for your time :wink:

 

[t0me]

I was worried about the same thing, so I just extended my bottom motor bracket enough to allow it to sit level.
Mine's an earlier Kona though, so doesn't have the same shape frame. Your frame shape works against being able give the motor a lot of clearance before it starts interfering with the front wheel travel.

 

[LightningRods]

These full suspension bikes are frustrating. On one level the strong frames and long travel suspension makes these bikes perfect to build an e-mx bike out of. But there is very little room for even the motor and controller, let alone batteries. I have some ideas for custom installs made for specific bikes but it's almost impossible to make a 'universal' kit for the FS bikes. My lower sheets are 1" (25mm) longer to fit some bikes with unusual front downtubes but I don't think they would fit this bike. You need custom brackets. It's a cool bike though.

 

[Whiplash]

Hey LR, Lil off topic but what do you think the torque output of the big block will be? I'm just doing a few fun calcs based on reduction numbers...??

 

[chucho]

I was worried about the same thing, so I just extended my bottom motor bracket enough to allow it to sit level.
Mine's an earlier Kona though, so doesn't have the same shape frame. Your frame shape works against being able give the motor a lot of clearance before it starts interfering with the front wheel travel.

Any photos of your assembly? I am woried about interfering with front wheel and being to low on the floor... i have been taking measures and it seems alright with the front wheel travel :| but not having a motor makes me hesitate...

These full suspension bikes are frustrating. On one level the strong frames and long travel suspension makes these bikes perfect to build an e-mx bike out of. But there is very little room for even the motor and controller, let alone batteries. I have some ideas for custom installs made for specific bikes but it's almost impossible to make a 'universal' kit for the FS bikes. My lower sheets are 1" (25mm) longer to fit some bikes with unusual front downtubes but I don't think they would fit this bike. You need custom brackets. It's a cool bike though.

I completly agree with you... frustrating is the word But i found a very good offer on this bike and got in love lol. The controler maybe could fit inside the frame beside the rear suspension. With bateries i will need to squeeze my imagination more.
Custom brackets are not a problem (i hope) my only concern is the space :?

 

[LightningRods]

Hey Whiplash-

We'd need a dyno or an electrical engineer to get those numbers. The short answer is, multiplied by a typical 6x to 7x reduction, too much torque for your average bicycle. I'd start off on gravel or loose dirt with my weight well over the handlebars on the first run. I saw a newb do a ground loop on a video of Liveforphysics Death Bike. I can predict a similar outcome here if you're heavy on the throttle.

I'm still working on small block motors. It looks like I've found a couple of factory sources, assuming they're legit. That's the fun thing about buying goods in China. They want you to wire transfer right to their bank account and then you find out if you've been hustled or not.

 

[Muapeia]

This is a good example frames ,I think the engine can stay on top of the framework and adapt it rest on the bottom as pictured

 

[chucho]

This is a good example frames ,I think the engine can stay on top of the framework and adapt it rest on the bottom as pictured

That could be great I could not imagine before as i dont now this motor very well... But now watching some photos again i think you are right.
Thank you very much for your advice :wink:
Do you have any link o photo of someone using this sistem with GNG motor?

 

[LightningRods]

I've been working on a drawing for you and it looks like Antonio was doing the same thing. :lol:
We both seem to agree on the layout. It's best to move the jackshaft inside the frame triangle.

 

[LightningRods]

My adjustable BB sheets are 1" or 25mm longer than the stock GNG sheets. This allows them to fit on a number of BBs that the GNG won't but not on an extreme front downtube like the Kona has.

 

[t0me]

Hi Chucho, here's mine - http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=56357
second last photo on the first post, you can see where I've cut the bottom plate set and added some 3mm plate.
I added plate to the 3 sides. Angle to either side would work (say 50x50x3 or even better 75x50x3 - mm).
I suspect though that by the time you've moved the motor far enough forward to clear the curve of your frame and add clearance, you're going to interfering with the fork/wheel travel.
So perhaps adding a bashplate and moving the jackshaft is going to be the solution. Or some combination of all 3 things. You'll have to do some measurements.

Couple of other things to think about.
If you changed that rear shock to one without a reserviour you'd have enough room it looks to have the motor inside the triangle there (then the jackshaft on the outside and underslung).... possibility?
Draw a line from the centre of the rear wheel to the handlebars, that's the centre of gravity line I believe. From what I've read you should try and get all your heavy addons into that line if possible.

That's why I moved my battery from a rack over the rear wheel into the frame (also meant the battery is getting a smoother ride).

 

[LightningRods]

Hi Chucho, here's mine - http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=56357

If you changed that rear shock to one without a reserviour you'd have enough room it looks to have the motor inside the triangle there (then the jackshaft on the outside and underslung).... possibility?

I'd put the motor outside the frame triangle and the jackshaft inside for several reasons. The motor is heavier so it's best to keep that weight down low, the motor is less fragile than the drive components and the jackshaft, and the large diameter items on the jackshaft are out on it's ends leaving lots of room in the middle to clear the shock and other suspension parts.

 

[_Tommy_]

Hi Chucho (and all ES members as this is my first post )

Im currently putting a GNG kit, bought from conhismotor, on a Trek Remedy 7. I had the same problem as Chucho so I decided to put the motor and the jackshaft inside the triangle. I had to put the motor higher than planned which means the center of gravity will be quite high. I hope it will not be a problem.

Batteries will be in a backpack. I haven't decided yet where to put the controller. I still have some work to do and some problems to solve before it is time for the test ride.

If you could get another shock without the reservoir, as tOme wrote, you could build something similar.

Here are some pictures of what my build will look like. I made the sheets adjustable to eliminate the power stealing tensioners.

The bike:

 

[skyungjae]

whoa, those plans look awesome.

 

[skyungjae]

I just wanted to welcome another GNG Stink-E to the party. I helped my friend put together his GNG 1.1 on a 2003 Stinky. The process started about 6 months ago, and he ran into his share of problems.

We've cleaned up the wiring a bit more, but I'm glad we were able to finally get it up and running.

I've gotta say, that new 148mm Cyclone spindle is soooooo much beefier than their previous 140mm spindle. I think I may have to upgrade to this one later on down the line.

We did have some battery problems during the ride though. He had bought one of those 10Ah vpower/cammycc LiFePO4 batteries. It kept on shutting off under load at around 3Ah used. It's more than likely a weak cell. He did have a lot of fun riding around with my 20Ah Li-ion battery though.

The secondary side chain tensioning system certainly is 100x better than the one on the GNG 1.0. I can't wait to do away with mine when I do the LightningRods wider belt upgrade.

 

[t0me]

mmmmmm so sexy
reminder to self: make side covers for my stink-e

 

[bee]

Hi Chucho (and all ES members as this is my first post )

Im currently putting a GNG kit, bought from conhismotor, on a Trek Remedy 7. I had the same problem as Chucho so I decided to put the motor and the jackshaft inside the triangle. I had to put the motor higher than planned which means the center of gravity will be quite high. I hope it will not be a problem.

Batteries will be in a backpack. I haven't decided yet where to put the controller. I still have some work to do and some problems to solve before it is time for the test ride.

If you could get another shock without the reservoir, as tOme wrote, you could build something similar.

Here are some pictures of what my build will look like. I made the sheets adjustable to eliminate the power stealing tensioners.

The bike:

Looks great, any chance we can get the source files for the motor & jackshaft that you modelled? Would be useful for others that want to model custom brackets.