Handbike Motor advice please

Slowco, Yep, one needs all the weight on the front wheel, battery etc etc. The mid-drives are not really an option in this case due to the structure of the hand drive. As an engineer I like the idea of rear wheel drive. All my e-bikes I have built are rear wheel drive be a rear hub motor or mid drive as I ride off road up steep banks and climbs up thro' forest areas, not places for front wheel drive.
 
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With a wheelchair and handbike you need a second rear axle or mounting points to place the wheels backwards. That way the center of gravity moves towards the front wheel for more traction.
See my posts about this in this other handbike thread:
Handbike thread on E-S
Great info, thanks. We had considered this but it’s not convenient when travelling, tbh I get most places, I just overreached! I will let some air out of my front tire as well as change the controller. When coming to hills I try to bring my body weight as forward as I can for the short time.
 
I assume the battery is mounted at the front as it's was not in the photo,
 
I assume the battery is mounted at the front as it's was not in the photo,
Yes one each side of the wheel for weight and balance - if you zoom in you can see the back plate. We also installed the rack which with panniers adds weight to the front wheel, gives a place to lift and adds protection when cargo handlers feel like throwing it around!!
 
Hi there, just check the connector on the controller not sure but it seems to be a slightly different shape / pin configuration to that on your motor. Have a look at the advert and zoom in on the 2 of 11 pictures and look at the fat motor connector or is it my imagination. Here for info only Connectors - Learn
 
Only other one i can find with full description of the plugs plus it’s a 26A so even more spare capacity ( I think!)
 

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Where was the 22 amp controller coming from and what was the part number for that? A lot of the 25 amp have the large motor connectors.
 
Only other one i can find with full description of the plugs plus it’s a 26A so even more spare capacity ( I think!)
Looks a possible but need to check your existing connectors to see if they match up.
 
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006365312227.html Looks correct, and it says the normal 9 pin not the large 9 pin. Only missing the connector for my light )which has the black/red wires, but I think thats an easy fix. So frustrating none of the sellers answer questions and no stores here in Canada sell them, so I cant go to a bike store!!
 
So frustrating none of the sellers answer questions
Honestly, most of these sellers have no idea what they are selling, and the item the sale page started with is often not even the same item they actually deliver as they may buy batches of stuff, each a different kind but generally similar, maybe with different connectors, or casing, or internals, or behavior/programming, etc.

In my experiments with cheap stuff for my wolfy project I've bought a number of things that failed or i blew up and got or bought replacements from the same source that were not the same as the originals (sometimes better, sometimes worse, but different).

Same for various ebike parts I've seen posted about here on ES over the years, especially where they post images of the ads and the parts received weren't the same.

Even if a seller did know about what they sell, they'd have to keep records of each batch and which was sold to who to know what to tell people after theyve sold them, and I doubt most of them have that kind of time (i expect most of them have multiple jobs or else mulitple sales sites to maintain plus inventory acquisition, etc, all done by just one person) or would spend it on that even if they did.

They also have to have time to check and answer messages, and be able to read and comprehend them, and that's even assuming the messaging system they use works (the one on aliexpress doesn't usually, as far as I can tell; when messages do get passed on they appear to be autotranslated very badly).


So....generally I don't expect to get the exact item being advertised, or the seller to know enough about even their current version to answer any real questions (even if they have time). If I want those things, I buy from known-trustworthy sellers that either I or people I trust have dealt with before, or sellers I research beforehand...it costs more (sometimes a lot more) but I only have to spend once if I do it right. ;)


Anyway, just pointing out some reasons why sellers don't answer questions....
 
Honestly, most of these sellers have no idea what they are selling, and the item the sale page started with is often not even the same item they actually deliver as they may buy batches of stuff, each a different kind but generally similar, maybe with different connectors, or casing, or internals, or behavior/programming, etc.

In my experiments with cheap stuff for my wolfy project I've bought a number of things that failed or i blew up and got or bought replacements from the same source that were not the same as the originals (sometimes better, sometimes worse, but different).

Same for various ebike parts I've seen posted about here on ES over the years, especially where they post images of the ads and the parts received weren't the same.

Even if a seller did know about what they sell, they'd have to keep records of each batch and which was sold to who to know what to tell people after theyve sold them, and I doubt most of them have that kind of time (i expect most of them have multiple jobs or else mulitple sales sites to maintain plus inventory acquisition, etc, all done by just one person) or would spend it on that even if they did.

They also have to have time to check and answer messages, and be able to read and comprehend them, and that's even assuming the messaging system they use works (the one on aliexpress doesn't usually, as far as I can tell; when messages do get passed on they appear to be autotranslated very badly).


So....generally I don't expect to get the exact item being advertised, or the seller to know enough about even their current version to answer any real questions (even if they have time). If I want those things, I buy from known-trustworthy sellers that either I or people I trust have dealt with before, or sellers I research beforehand...it costs more (sometimes a lot more) but I only have to spend once if I do it right. ;)


Anyway, just pointing out some reasons why sellers don't answer questions....
Thank you! Trust me its not the price I just cant find the controller from any store here!
 
As you are probably already doing with the light connector, it's often easier (though not cheaper) to find the specific controller (or whatever) you're after from a place that does answer questions, even though it has wrong connectors, then just change the connectors on it to match yours. Often pigtails are available for various connectors, so you can buy the ones you need to match your system and either just splice them to the existing one, or for a cleaner build open the controller and solder them directly to the board.

You do have to test and or research what the wiring order / color on the existing wiring is first, and what your system's wiring is, as yhou don't want to make a mistake on that. ;)


FWIW, as previously noted, the higher power controller will be able to provide more power to the motor when the load is higher, which means the motor may then heat up more than it should, and geared hubmotors have a much harder time shedding the heat than DD hubmotors (but they provide more torque per pound of motor given the same battery and controller).


It will also pull more current from the battery, causing more voltage sag and heating up the battery itself more. If the battery is designed to handle the higher current then it won't damage it, but when it's closer to empty the extra sag may cause cutouts at higher loads where it didn't happen with the lower-current controller.
 
Amberwolf, yep that's about it, sellers are just sellers and nothing else, I have always used KT kunteng controllers / displays, Bafang / MXUS hub drives, along with TSDZ2(B) mid-drives and so far have not have a problem with any of them, but I can fix them if it was needed along with I only set a mild performance upgrades to suit my riding needs.
Where was I, O yes I can find your original controller but anything with in the same make / series looks to have the large motor connector. 26 amps will be pushing your motor over 1200 watts, a bit much if you have a long slow hill climb I think. Can you put a couple of picture of the "top bracket" area or as I would know it the BB so I can rethink about the mid-drive option.
 
Amberwolf, yep that's about it, sellers are just sellers and nothing else, I have always used KT kunteng controllers / displays, Bafang / MXUS hub drives, along with TSDZ2(B) mid-drives and so far have not have a problem with any of them, but I can fix them if it was needed along with I only set a mild performance upgrades to suit my riding needs.
Where was I, O yes I can find your original controller but anything with in the same make / series looks to have the large motor connector. 26 amps will be pushing your motor over 1200 watts, a bit much if you have a long slow hill climb I think. Can you put a couple of picture of the "top bracket" area or as I would know it the BB so I can rethink about the mid-drive option.
Thank you both, with all the information it seems I should stick to a 22A max to avoid the excessive heat etc. I will continue my search! I also realised a mid drive wont work as when I travel I need to disconnect the chain (use throttle through the airport) as then when the front drive is being moved the hand cranks dont turn -which risks the cables getting twisted!
 
I also realised a mid drive wont work as when I travel I need to disconnect the chain (use throttle through the airport) as then when the front drive is being moved the hand cranks dont turn -which risks the cables getting twisted!

most m,iddrives have freewheels internally or on the chainring so they don't backdrive the cranks

also, i don't understand how cables could get twisted on the cranks; i guess i don't know how this is setup if it has cables on it that spin with the cranks; they would have to always get twisted up if you ever spun the cranks eve by hand?
 
Yep, on a TSDZ2(B) the pedals only work and lock when one is pedalling, push the bike backwards the pedal stay stationary. I have from the mid-drive one cable to the display, one pair to the battery, one to the speed sensor on the back wheel, from the VLCD5 display if used, one cable to the throttle and two cables for the brake sensors.
 
most m,iddrives have freewheels internally or on the chainring so they don't backdrive the cranks

also, i don't understand how cables could get twisted on the cranks; i guess i don't know how this is setup if it has cables on it that spin with the cranks; they would have to always get twisted up if you ever spun the cranks eve by hand?
It’s A handbike, so the brake cables are on the hand crank. When people move it (when they dont know it!) the cables often get twisted! For this reason I actually switched to an Archer components e gear shift to lose the gear cables at the crank. With the amount of revolutions they would occasionally snap.
 
As I said food for thought, I have fitted a large direct drive hub motor in a standard bike frame before as you can spring the rear legs apart, my latest Boardman 29er went I release the rear wheel QR the frame springs open about 4mm naturally so I would say that motor would fit it without any problem, hand bike frame may be different. What you can do is ask for more information regarding the hand bike 1000 watt kit, what it's made up of, spec, then consider perhaps selling your 500 watt kit, only a thought or from the information check out the controller / motor combination.
 
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