XRuss said:
Hi boostjuice. Nice. Could you please expand on how you cut the percision round holes in the foam?
Materials and equipment:
1 x length of 1.5" OD pipe (38.1mm outside diameter) at least 50cm long is preferable so it is easier to keep a hold of with two hands and keep perpendicular to the foam when cutting the holes. This forms slightly undersized holes for the insertion of the 40.6mm OD PSI/BMI/Lifebatt cells which means they fit snuggly with some foam compression. This stops them wanting to slide within the holes, but the foam can still flex to accomodate vibration, impact shocks and thermal expansion which is something that plastic blocks do very minimally.
1 x right angle/barbed hook (can be made out of a coathanger or piece of wire). This is used for removing the cylinders of foam that end up inside the pipe when you press out the holes.
1 x half moon hand file - This is used to remove material from the inner side of the pipe wall, forming the bladed edge needed to slice the cylindrical holes.
1 x hacksaw or stanley knife for cutting the foam blocks. I found a hacksaw gave straighter edges and the serrated edge didnt grab the foam when cutting like i first expected.
1 x ruler and set square for marking out the foam blocks for cutting
1 x marker pen for drawing out the lines on the foam blocks
25mm > 40mm thick packing foam (available from packing material stores, specialty rubber/foam stores and sometimes even the dumpster behind your local whitegoods retailer!) I stress that you must use foam with enough density otherwise you will not be able to cut it neatly - if at all. Soft grades of foam 'fall over' and 'morph' when you try to slice and cut it. Polyethylene packing foam is ideal. Polystyrene foam crumbles and is no good.
Once the foam blocks are cut to size to fit the allocated enclosure/frame, the cell spacing is decided upon and the hole centre locations marked on the foam it is time to bore them out with the pipe. placing each foam block on top of a piece of softwood on the floor, you simply apply downward rotating force with the bladed edge of the pipe onto the foam and it cuts neat holes with minimal pressure required. To align the pipe precisely you simply look through the top of the pipe and line up the crossed lines that mark the centre of each hole location. Its just like looking through a rifle-scope, except you want to centre the crosshairs in the middle of the circle.
The piece of softwood under the foam block is used so that when the pipe cuts through the block, it has a soft surface to cut into that wont blunten the edge.
Once one block is cut, it can be used as a die template to cut the others without marking. You just place the cut block on top of the uncut block and use the preformed holes as guides for the pipe. You just have to be sure that the two blocks are set square and held securely on top of each other. I used a few bricks to make a perimeter wall around them so they didnt move around.
Neat results can be obtained with patience.