Help me program my Thermo Nucular F24 controller

[biknut]

I've just completed a new build using a nucular F24 controller, with uLight accessory. Everything is hooked up except the battery. I'm unfamiliar with how to program the controller. I've read through the 30 page set up manual several times until my eyes glaze over. My battery is 72v, and has an 80 amp bms. The motor is a direct drive 5000w, with 23 pole pairs.

First off, it says the first time you power up the controller it will come on automatically. Then you need to designate what method you want to use for starting after that. I've installed a kill switch on my handle bar that I want to use. I wired it to the display using this port. I think I can handle this setting if I'm connected to the correct port?


Next I need to set the battery parameters. I think I can manage this too.

One of my main concerns is how to limit the controller too 80 amp. I'm not seeing clearly how this is accomplished. Once this is done I think I can proceed with the auto tune?

I have my lights connected to the uLight on out5, and my brake light on out6. Apparently I have to program these 2 ports t do what I want. I don't understand how to do this.


My throttle and brake cutout are connected to the uLight which I think is parallel to the display. When I do the auto tune I hope the controller knows to look there?

I'm hoping of the other settings have a default mode, and most of the 30 pages are for making changes to the defaults.

Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.

 

[Portugaline]

Hello,

The functionality of the brake and throttle with motor auto-setup depends on the firmware. However, in most cases, even if the motor auto-detection shows an error for the throttle and brake, they will still work without requiring any further modifications.

Setting up the battery is very simple. You can use the "Quick Voltage Setup" option to configure the voltage, including the maximum and minimum values, automatically.

Configuring the battery to 80 amps is also easy—just set the "Discharge Max" field accordingly.

They also have a Telegram group where you can ask questions and usually get a quick response.

 

[Portugaline]

Setting up the ULight module is also quite easy. When you click on Devices, you'll see both your controller and the ULight module. Simply select the ULight module and configure ports OUT5 and OUT6.

You can find the full ULight module manual here:
ULight Module Manual

 

[biknut]

Hello,

The functionality of the brake and throttle with motor auto-setup depends on the firmware. However, in most cases, even if the motor auto-detection shows an error for the throttle and brake, they will still work without requiring any further modifications.

Setting up the battery is very simple. You can use the "Quick Voltage Setup" option to configure the voltage, including the maximum and minimum values, automatically.

Configuring the battery to 80 amps is also easy—just set the "Discharge Max" field accordingly.

They also have a Telegram group where you can ask questions and usually get a quick response.

Thank you Portugaline, this is a good tip. I haven't seen reference to this in the set up manual, but it's probably in there.

 

[biknut]

Setting up the ULight module is also quite easy. When you click on Devices, you'll see both your controller and the ULight module. Simply select the ULight module and configure ports OUT5 and OUT6.

You can find the full ULight module manual here:
ULight Module Manual

This is good because I was hoping it might be this way. I think I have understanding abut this.

 

[biknut]

I successfully enabled my remote on/off switch. I haven't run the auto tune yet.
I need advise on setting up the battery, which is 21s. My BMS is set to charge to 83.4v, and is rated for 80 amp.

First question is, what does 1.5dV refer to? It says the range is 1-10v
Second question is, since I only charge to 83.4v should I set the supply max at 83.4, or 84v

 

[Portugaline]

Hello Sir,

Regarding your first question:

"What does 1.5dV refer to? It says the range is 1-10V."

This setting allows the controller to recognize the battery as fully charged and begin tracking power usage. If you set it to 1.5dV and your maximum supply voltage is 80V, the controller will mark the battery as charged at 78,5v and reset the statistical data "from Charge." This is purely a statistical setting and does not affect the actual charging process, so there’s no need to worry about it.

For your second question:

"Since I only charge to 83.4V, should I set the supply max to 83.4V or 84V?"

The maximum voltage on the controller should match the BMS (Battery Management System). The main reason for this is regenerative braking—if the controller’s voltage limit is set higher than the BMS value, regen braking could push the voltage beyond the BMS limit, which may cause the battery to shut down.

Let me know if you need further clarification!

Best regards

 

[biknut]

Hello Sir,

Regarding your first question:

"What does 1.5dV refer to? It says the range is 1-10V."

This setting allows the controller to recognize the battery as fully charged and begin tracking power usage. If you set it to 1.5dV and your maximum supply voltage is 80V, the controller will mark the battery as charged at 78,5v and reset the statistical data "from Charge." This is purely a statistical setting and does not affect the actual charging process, so there’s no need to worry about it.

For your second question:

"Since I only charge to 83.4V, should I set the supply max to 83.4V or 84V?"

The maximum voltage on the controller should match the BMS (Battery Management System). The main reason for this is regenerative braking—if the controller’s voltage limit is set higher than the BMS value, regen braking could push the voltage beyond the BMS limit, which may cause the battery to shut down.

Let me know if you need further clarification!

Best regards

I came to that same conclusion about the first question.

I set the max voltage of the controller at 84v.

 

[biknut]

I think I have my brake cutout hooked up incorrectly. Both the throttle, and brake are connected to the uLight. The diagram has 3 wires going to the BRK port. My brakes only have 2 wires. I hooked my brake up between GND and I2. The controller is not seeing the brake. I'm not noticing a problem with the throttle.

 

[amberwolf]

In that diagram, BRK is a variable input, a potentiometer, just like the THR input is. Presumably so you can have variable regen braking in DD hubmotor systems.

I don't know if it is programmable to react to just a switch, but if it is, you'd probably have to change that setting to react to a zero input rather than a full-scale input to work with wiring signal to ground via a simple switch.

 

[Portugaline]

I think I have my brake cutout hooked up incorrectly. Both the throttle, and brake are connected to the uLight. The diagram has 3 wires going to the BRK port. My brakes only have 2 wires. I hooked my brake up between GND and I2. The controller is not seeing the brake. I'm not noticing a problem with the throttle.



View attachment 367257

Hello,

Yes, you can definitely connect the brake to GND + I2, but you'll need to configure it on the controller. Let me know if you're able to set it up, or I can send you instructions if needed.

 

[biknut]

In that diagram, BRK is a variable input, a potentiometer, just like the THR input is. Presumably so you can have variable regen braking in DD hubmotor systems.

I was coming to that conclusion, but trying not to because I've never known of a bike that braked like that.

 

[amberwolf]

I was coming to that conclusion, but trying not to because I've never known of a bike that braked like that.

It's pretty commonly available on FOC controllers.

On the SB Cruiser trike's rear DD Ultramotor hubmotors, controlled by Phaserunners, my primary braking is from variable regen controlled by a brake lever on hte left side that pulls a cable-operated throttle unit. There's a separate lever on the right side that controls the mechanical front disc brake. (there is no mechanical rear brake at this time).

The variable regen is very smooth and almost as controllable as the mechanical brake, though the Phaserunner braking curve is not "normal", as it only brakes hard (for full lever pull) once it is pretty slow already, when what it needs is to brake hard whenever that's commanded regardless of speed.

FOC controllers each have their own way of doing things so yours probably performs differently if you wanted to set it up for variable regen (assuming no freewheel or clutch between your wheel and motor).

 

[biknut]

I want to thank you guys for your help. I couldn't figure out how to get the controller to see the brake, so I decided, who needs it for now, and I went ahead and did the auto tune. I'll figure out the brake cutout later, but I've been working on this build since late last summer, and now it's starting to get warm.