Help to find right battery pack

Joined
Jun 4, 2011
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416
Location
Essex uk
Hi I'm new to all this ebiking and am doing my first build. I am using a cyclone 1200w 48v motor kit. I am looking at using it to and from work 16 miles each way. So need bit help on what power pack I would need and best for money
 
I would get a real battery a123 from cellman. They have a good rep. and with your high demand and powerful setup don't a battery that is not rated high enough for what you need and blow up the bms or brust a cell. Look at new items forum for cellman a little more today but should last he is busie so give a day for return. Ebay batties maybe or not work just barly. Don't waste you money on junk. Lead only last 1.2 years and very heavy. Lifepo4 last 1200 cycles or 5 years. Can you charge at work ?
 
So, you have a 25 amp controller? What kind of milage range do you need to have. Something like a 15Ah Ping battery will give you that much power easily and carry you about 30 miles. If you don't need to go that far and battery weight is a factor, you could downsize to a 10Ah battery, but 25 amps could be a little hard on a 10Ah Ping. So if you want to go small, a 9.2Ah A123 battery like cell_man sells can push high amps; it is a little more expensive, but a damn fine battery.
 
Hi thank for quick replys. Yeah I can charge at work. I never riden a ebike before just hoping this kit got bit pock to it so want good pack to get best out off it but easy to charge that what put me off muti lipo
 
48V 1200W motor and the controller maxes out at 25A? I've got a 48V 500W kit and the controller maxes out at 31A, so 25A sounds low. Assuming 25A is correct, then you need a pack that can deliver that and stay within its specs. That would require a 15ah ping. Now if you're controller is more than 30A, you need to re-evaluate the whole thing. Personally, I use lipo. It's not hard to charge.
 
wesnewell said:
48V 1200W motor and the controller maxes out at 25A? I've got a 48V 500W kit and the controller maxes out at 31A, so 25A sounds low. Assuming 25A is correct, then you need a pack that can deliver that and stay within its specs. That would require a 15ah ping. Now if you're controller is more than 30A, you need to re-evaluate the whole thing. Personally, I use lipo. It's not hard to charge.

The wattage of the system is determined by the controller. So if he says he has a 48v, 1200 watt system, I would infer a 25 amp controller. I guess the question I should have asked his is "how many amps you planning to draw with that sucker?"
 
1200w / 48v = 25 amp

However, rated amps don't mean squat, and can sometimes be an average. you need to know what the controller is capable of drawing before you decide what battery to buy.

If you buy a battery that is not capable of putting out the amps that the controller wants, you're gonna have problems.
On that end, you also need to know what the maximum amp output of the battery is too.
 
find out for sure.
20 amps x 48v would not produce 1200w nominal.
 
From my research, it looks like it will draw 40-50A.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18068&start=15#p267544
Time for lipo or A123 if this is correct.
 
Idontwanttopedal said:
Hi what lipo are you running and how you go about charging them
I use 14s of Zippy 5ah 15C. No problem pulling 30A. I don't know much about the Cyclone kits, but if they are as efficient as a hub motor you could get by with a 14s 8ah pack of 30C Zippy's. Really depends on a lot of factors. One good thing about lipo is you can just parallel more on easily. Most times I just use the sla charger to charge mine, but needs to be manually disconnected when charge is reached. One of these days I'll either by a timer switch for it or get a bulk charger at the specified voltage For $29.. Other times I use regular lipo charger that shuts off by itself. I rarely ever use the balance leads.
 
Idontwanttopedal said:
Think off using headway cell maybe using 16ah cells or use 10ah cells to start and if they don't last long double up the make a 20 ah
While they're rated for 10C continuous, their 2000 cycle life is rated at 80% DOD 1C, 1500 @ 100% DOD 1C. Check the detailed description. How long will they last at 2C, 3C, 4C discharge rate? And they aren't cheap. A 16ah pack will cost over $500. May be worth it. I don't know. More than I'd spend though.
 
wesnewell said:
I've got a 48V 500W kit and the controller maxes out at 31A, so 25A sounds low. /quote]
Then it's really more like a 1500W kit, as that's what 48V at 31A would give you. ;) Not saying the motor or batteries are is capable of that, continously, but if you were using that setup under conditions that constantly drew 31A, and your pack could keep up at least 48V, you'd be pulling 1500W thru that motor.

I would expect (though vendors may disagree) that a controller included with a certain wattage kit would have a current limit that does not allow the motor to exceed it's rated wattage, and/or would not let the included battery pack (if any) exceed it's own current limit (assuming it's BMS (if any) doesn't do that limiting).

My own "500W" motor on CrazyBike2 certainly draws far more than that with the 48V (52-54V typical) Vpower pack and a 12FET controller with an apparent current limit of around 60A. :) I'm sure it couldn't handle it continously, even ventilated like it is, but I wouldn't really call mine a 500W kit unless my controller limited the current to about 11A or less. :lol:
 
AFAIK, all electric motors are or have to be rated at their max wattage assuming continuous operation at that wattage. And unless a manufacturer doesn't want to stay in business, they will under rate every one of them by at least 25%. And I'd guess most of them under rate them more than that. I can actually draw over 1700W with my 500W motor. Others have gone over 3000W with the same motor with no ill effects. That's just the way it is. If it failed at 550W, how long do you think they'd stay in business?
 
Idontwanttopedal said:
The controller I rated at 30 amps. No matter what pack I look at all 48v20ah packs deliver to uk work out £500 about $800 odd
For 16 mile range, you don't need 20ah. I get about 10 miles without pedaling out of my 5ah 14s lipo pack that cost $114, and up to 40 miles if I pedal and keep the speed down. You only need 20ah if you go with a pack with a 2C max rating, and to be honest, you should probably go with a 30ah of that type to keep the draw down to 1C. I still think, from what I've read, you'll find that the controller will draw a lot more than 30A unless you limit it yourself.
 
Looking at the ping battery v2.5 48v20ah with upgraded bms or is the c rating of these pack to low. Need pack to be easy to charge so can plug it in when get to work and forget about it for most off the day
 
A 15 or 20 amp hour lifepo4 pack would be appropriate, then.
If you have a lot of hills, or a lot of stop and go, i would go for the 20ah because it will perform a hell of a lot better.

Remember that whenever you are climbing a hill or accelerating at full throttle, you are basically going to be hitting the amp limiter, so you need to buy a battery pack that can handle that constant. In the ping world, a 15ah would be the minimum.

If you went the lipo route you could go as low as 5ah, but that's another ball of wax entirely.
 
hi thank you for help. i tell truth here i am lost when it comes to all the battery set up.i going do 16 mile to work it a bit hilly and want go as quick as can then when get to work plug it on charge and walk away. just not got the money to fry a battery pack need get it right first time
 
Idontwanttopedal said:
hi thank you for help. i tell truth here i am lost when it comes to all the battery set up.i going do 16 mile to work it a bit hilly and want go as quick as can then when get to work plug it on charge and walk away. just not got the money to fry a battery pack need get it right first time
If my research is right (see previous post) your controller could draw 50A. If it does, it'll burn a 15ah ping up pretty quick. My advice is to get a pack that can handle at least 50A and be safe. Cheapest, smallest, and lightest would be lipo, but if you want lifepo4, I'd go with a 10ah A123 pack from cellman. If you can verify you'll never go over 30A, then, and only then would I get a 15ah 2Cc max, 1c recommended ping type pack.
 
this is pack was looking at from ping but was going get uprated bms

Specifications:
Suitable Wattage of Motor: up to 1200 Watt, 800 Watt suggested
Applications: E-Bike, Electric Bike, E-Scooter, Electric Scooter
Voltage: 48 Volts
Capacity: 20 Amp Hours
Dimension: 195x210x150 mm / 7.7x8.3x5.9 inches
Weight: 9.90 kg / 21.90 lbs
Charging Voltage: 60-61 Volts
Charging Current: <5 Amps
Rated Discharging Amperage: 20 Amps
Max Continuous Discharging Amperage: 40 Amps
Maximum Discharging Current: 60 Amps
Discharging Cut-off Protection: 50 Amps
Lifecycle of the whole pack: >85% capacity after 1000 cycles. Lifecycle of single cell: >85% capacity after 1500 cycles, >70% capacity after 3000 cycles. (<1C discharge rate and <1C charge rate)
 
Don't go for the upgraded BMS that will allow you to torture the cells even worse.
The battery will last far less time if you exceed the specs.
Notice that the 1000 cycle rating to 85% is if you discharge *below* 1C.
Another reason that you need more headroom in the discharge capability, is to reduce the voltage sag on these packs. Over 2C, it's going to be bad, like lead acid bad.

Send cell_man an email, he is more likely to respond that way.

emissions-free_worldwide(at)hotmail.com
 
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