Henry111's free tech support thread

Hey dan, does a controller tester tell you specifically where the fault is in the controller or does it just give you a black-and-white pass/fail?

What does a motor tester do? Just ping for signal? It wouldn't actually spin up the motor would it?
 
dogman dan said:
Worth a look inside though, could be as simple as a cold solder joint on a phase or halls wire. But likely not.

Nice job! You got it done with what skills you have. If you do this much more, get a controller, motor tester. Once I find the bad part, I'm also in the replace it and toss the old one category. But the motor tester is less than 20 bucks, and saves a ton of time.

dogman, where can I acquire the "motor tester" you refer to? Will it tell me if Hall sensors are bad? And if so, will it tell me which one? Even so, if one is bad, I think it best to go ahead and replace all three. I used to have a tester that that a friendly tech type made for me. It would actually tell me which sensor was bad by turning on or off yellow, blue, or green LEDs. Don't know what happened to it.

Also, per your advice, I will check inside the ESC for shorts, bad solder, etc. If anything else is bad, it ain't worth fool'n with. Gonna order mosfits and diodes from China? LOL!
 
The tester will only tell you what's wrong when your system doesn't work. It tests that the halls switch properly, that your motor phase wires aren't shorted or open, that the controller osfets are switching and that you have a throttle signal. You can get them from Ebay with dodgy instructions or Em3ev with better instructions. The testers are the same, but check that any Ebay ones have English markings unless you're fluent in Chinese.
 
Case #1:
I have a 36V lithium battery.
I have a 36V smart charger--smart in that it turns off automatically once the battery is charged.
Question: What will happen if put this 36V charger on a 48V battery?

Case #2:
I have a 48V lithium battery.
I have a 48V smart charger.
Question: What will happen if I put this 48V charger on a 36V battery?
 
I got a 40v 5 amp charger adjusted to 58 volts. i turn it up to 68v then 73v last but it only lasted 3 months at 73v. I looked inside and found 63 volt caps. this was after 4 years of sitting on the shelf. I pulled it down and I took out a blown 63 volt cap and put in a 100 volt cap and turn it up two 84 volts I have ran twice not knowing the amperage but is no smoking yet, going downstairs to check it out. Now.

P.S. Reread my talk to text message. Sorry. Hope it makes more sense.
 
the output caps on the charger are the biggest risk to charging imo. they are directly connected to the output of the battery so if one of the output caps shorts out it will go off like a roman candle with the full power of both the charger and the battery to supply power to the short. i think this is the biggest risk of fires.
 
So the 48v battery hooked to the 36v charger could mean too much power going into the charger, backwards, overloading the capacitors inside.

But if the 36v charger puts out 42v or so, chances are it has at least a 50v cap inside. So if your battery is below 50v, the only thing that happens is the battery never charges higher than 42v.

48v charger and 36v battery, it depends on the battery. Your 36v will want to charge to about 42v, but the charger will try to feed it 56v more or less.(depending on the type) If the battery has a bms, the bms may stop the charge when it should stop. If the battery has no bms, then the charger will overcharge your battery to death.

It's not so smart, it knows to stop because you put a 36v battery on it.

Either way, it's not something that could result in anything good. And re charger fires, never put your charger on the carpet, the pile of newspapers on the table, etc. My chargers sit on tile.
 
i have had the kingpan chargers go over voltage to the max and they blow up the output caps and the caps then shoot sparks out like roman candles. that was without the battery attached.
 
dogman dan said:
So the 48v battery hooked to the 36v charger could mean too much power going into the charger, backwards, overloading the capacitors inside.

But if the 36v charger puts out 42v or so, chances are it has at least a 50v cap inside. So if your battery is below 50v, the only thing that happens is the battery never charges higher than 42v.

48v charger and 36v battery, it depends on the battery. Your 36v will want to charge to about 42v, but the charger will try to feed it 56v more or less.(depending on the type) If the battery has a bms, the bms may stop the charge when it should stop. If the battery has no bms, then the charger will overcharge your battery to death.

It's not so smart, it knows to stop because you put a 36v battery on it.

Either way, it's not something that could result in anything good. And re charger fires, never put your charger on the carpet, the pile of newspapers on the table, etc. My chargers sit on tile.

dogman, If I am reading you correctly, putting a 36V charger on a 48V battery MIGHT damage the charger by overloading its capacitors?
Yes?
No?

And: The "...the battery never charges above 42V
Yes?
No?

Again, if I am reading you correctly:
48V charger on a 36V battery: IF the battery has a BMS (mine does) "...the BMS MAY stop the charge when it should stop..." at about 42V. But with no battery BMS (but mine does) "...then the charger will overcharge the battery to death."
Have I got this right?
Yes?
No?

But either way, it is NOT a good idea?
Yes?
No?
 
999zip999 said:
ok if you have a 36 volt ------- and your new friend has a 48 volt ------- how would you feel about seeing feeling this ???

Oh depending on voltage ???
I want to get it.
Talk to about amps.
Oh Forgot about the watts.
So Watt the amp matters ???

Justin would you be volting for Trump ??? Canadian on his birther certificate ???
If not response we know the answer ///.[/quote

Sorry 999zuo999, but I don't have any experience with "----------."
 
999zip999 said:
Stop think ? Just do it post pictures and let the world know.

If you read dogman's answer, I think you might agree that that is NOT a good idea without more information, which I am attempting to acquire with my questions.
 
Just received a new battery.
The order was for a 36V.
But when I measure the voltage it reads 55.8V. Please note: That reading is fresh from the supplier (before I put it on charge).
Also: This battery weighs about 1-1/2 to 2 pounds more than my other 36V batteries.
Question:
Is it possible that the supplier made a mistake and sent me a 48V battery instead of a 36V?
 
13s that was fully charged to 4,2 volts per cell would be about 55 volts.

So yes, you got 48.
 
dnmun said:
just count the number of channels on the BMS and you will know.

I don't want to open the battery to count the BMS. I am convinced that I have a 48V, which, by the way, is OK.
However, another question:
Does the fact that this battery weighs more than my other 36V batteries indicate anything? More cells, etc.?
 
why did you ask then? if you knew what you had then there is no reason to ask advice and waste our time and space on the bulletin board. of course others think this sorta behavior is just fine but i consider this to be a waste of time.
 
dnmun said:
why did you ask then? if you knew what you had then there is no reason to ask advice and waste our time and space on the bulletin board. of course others think this sorta behavior is just fine but i consider this to be a waste of time.

I had not made up my mind until I received advice from some GOOD and SMART folks on here. Only then did I make that final decision. One of the reasons that I so seldom visit EV is because of so many negative people, like yourself on here, who are not really here to be helpful, but rather to feed their hungry little egos.
 
A 10 Ah 48 volt will have more cells and weight than a 10 Ah 36v.
 
Looks like a 48v. Now I understand your other question. If the battery is inside a metal box, I totally understand some reluctance to open it. Just the fact it arrived nearly fully charged for a 48v battery indicates to me it cannot be a 36v.
 
Lets make this clear. NO to either one. Either way its risky.

Re the well, cant' say it. I'm removing those references to the rear end. Didn't see that earlier, I have to confess to not reading every post in a thread. I try to read all the OP's posts.
 
dogman dan said:
Lets make this clear. NO to either one. Either way its risky.

Re the well, cant' say it. I'm removing those references to the rear end. Didn't see that earlier, I have to confess to not reading every post in a thread. I try to read all the OP's posts.

Thank you dogman. To me, your word is gospel.
ebike-kit is lucky to have you.
 
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