Henry111's free tech support thread

[dogman dan]

Yes, most of us find it more convenient to paralell packs into 18v pairs. So you end up with a 5s 10 ah pack that can be charged as one piece. Then you connect in series to ride. To charge, disconnect the series connetion, and you have two seperate 5s packs to charge one by one using the less expensive 6s or 8s chargers. Or they could be charged at once with a larger charger, or as I do, with two of the smaller chargers.

I highly recomend 12s, using 6s packs. But you may have reasons to desire slightly less power and speed, and prefer 10s, as you say in your first post.

Why 6s? Not much more money, but you will have a system that is no harder to charge, yet a tad faster, and a tad more range. It will perform just a bit better on a hill, yet not be that much bigger or heavier. The next step up to 14 or 15s is more expensive, takes 1/3 more space, and is often more complicated to charge.

But as you say, you may be as fast and powerfull as you want already.

 

[rui_fujino]

I wouldn't get 6s packs! depending on your controller but this maybe too high voltage for your controller when it's fresh out of charger!
12s is 50.4v! and nominal or 44.4v thats not 36v anymroe...

 

[Henry111]

I am considering the purchase of the 36V 500W kit (front wheel drive) from Yescomusa.
If anyone is familiar with Yescomusa kits please tell what I should know.
Is it any good?
Any cautions that I should be aware of?
Yescomusa is in my area so I can pick up and save shipping charges.
Your input please.

 

[wesnewell]

I've bought 2 of them, 48V 500W, and 48V 1000W. And I'm happy with them.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29426
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=25375
The motors are GoldenMotor motors. And they seem strong to me. With a new controller I ran 19s lipo on the 500W motor without a problem, and I'm currently running 24s (100V) on the 1000W motor and sometimes pumping close to 4000W into it with no ill effects.

 

[snellemin]

I've used the 48v 500w kit and it's a decent setup to get you going. My wheel was a bit out of round, but that was to be expected at that price. I then upgraded to Lyen sensorless controller and got the motor running on 22s for a while. I just upgraded the stock motor connectors to 4mm bullets.

 

[wesnewell]

I just ordered another one. 48V 500W front to put on a Schwinn Merridian I just picked up.

 

[neptronix]

Cheap stuff, seems to be decent. You may want to cross-shop with cell_man/emissions-free stuff though. The price is similar and the products he sells are equivalent to the big brand name kits ( ebikekit, ampedbikes )

 

[Kent]

Yescomusa has been very good at quick shipping and customer service. However, bear in mind that they are resellars like most on e-bay. They buy the kits already assembled and packaged-they merely ship them on to the customer in the original Chinese packaging. Be prepared for out of round rims, cheap connectors and undersized wiring. The instructions, if any, are poor Chinese translated. Don't expect any detailed tech help from these re-sellers.

 

[friedwires]

actally yescoms instructions are better than the amped kit video instructions.

 

[Henry111]

I know that a 1 degree grade will rise 1 foot for every 57 feet of forward travel.
I have this hill to climb. It starts at an elevation of 36 feet and ends at 360 ft. elevation. The distance traveled from to 36 to 360 is exactly 1 mile. Can anyone figure the degree of this hill? And give me the math involved?
Honest, this is a serious quetion that I need the answer to.

 

[Lock]

Hey Henry

Say hello to MapMyRide:
http://www.mapmyride.com/



I'll let others pitch in about terms and trigonometry etc...

LocK

 

[spinningmagnets]

Here's one way to do it...Get a string, a $7 string level, and a brick, along with a simple ruler/tape-measure marked off in inches or centimeters.

Tie the string around the brick and set it on the ground. Mark off a length on the string which is 100-inches long, or 100-centimeters long. Go to the steepest part of the hill and set the brick down/pull the string straight, using the level to attain the proper position. Then, use the ruler to vertically measure the distance between the string and the ground.

As an example, 100-inches out, and 8-inches down is an 8% grade. Same with centimeters. 100-inches out, and 100 inches down = 100% grade, which is 45 degrees. Its rare to find a street grade more than 20%, and the degrees can be found by entering the grade# into an online grade calculator.

 

[Rassy]

Mostly grades are listed as a percentage, not in degrees. Thats what you see on road side signs, etc.

I have a 4 foot carpenters level, so the easy quick way is to just set one end of the level on the uphill side, hold the level level (I like that, "level level"), then use a tape measure to find the number of inches from the downhill end of the level to the road. The % grade is the tape measured inches (rise) divided by 48 inches (run) multiplied by 100 to give percentage.

 

[Hugues]

I know that a 1 degree grade will rise 1 foot for every 57 feet of forward travel.
I have this hill to climb. It starts at an elevation of 36 feet and ends at 360 ft. elevation. The distance traveled from to 36 to 360 is exactly 1 mile. Can anyone figure the degree of this hill? And give me the math involved?
Honest, this is a serious quetion that I need the answer to.

i would better explain with a drawing, but "i have something on the fire" at the moment

here is the math:

picture a triangle, flat base, the 1 mile distance is the longest side of the triangle, called the hypothenuse.
Math says the SIN of the angle you are looking for is the opposite side of the triangle (360-36) divided by the hypothenuse, here 1 mile, to be converted to feet
once you have this ration, you do SIN-1 on your calculator and you should find the degree. Unless I'm mistaken and was sleeping during my trigonometry course.

 

[Drunkskunk]

%Grade = (rise/run)*100

So 1 foot of rise in 10 feet of run would be:


(1/10)*100 = ( .1 )*100 = 10%

 

[dogman dan]

I used to shoot grades in degrees with a home made slope protractor. a piece of panel with a 90 degree protractor drawn on it. At the pivot point, a crude plumb bob made of wire. I'd hold the protractor paralell with the snow slope, and read degrees off the protractor. It was a good tool for debunking some ski areas black diamond rating of trails, and rating your own in the backcountry.

 

[Rassy]

Henry, if you really need to know the degrees of the slope you don't need to do any trig. You already know one leg of a right triangle, the rise, is 360' - 36', or 324'. You also know the hypotenuse is 1 mile, or 5280'. So the run is just the square root of 5280 squared - 324 squared.

Use a calculater that does square roots and then draw an accurate scale model on a piece of paper and use a little protractor to get the degrees. Not accurate to several decimal points, but should be within a degree or so.

 

[Hugues]

online calculator here:
http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-trigright.asp

side A is 324 feet (difference in elevation 360-36)
side C = 5280 feet = 1 mile

then click calculate and you get 3.518 degrees for angle A

 

[itchynackers]

Assuming 1 mile (5280 feet) is your distance traveled (not horizontal distance), then:

sin(degrees) = (360-36)/5280

degrees = inv sin (324/5280)

degrees = 3.52

Also, slope (run:rise)

run = (5280^2 - (360-36)^2)^0.5 = 5270 feet

rise = (360-36) = 324 feet

so, 5270/324 = 16:1 slope

so for every 16 feet, you rise 1 foot

1/16 = 6.15% slope

 

[Henry111]

Would one dare mount a front hub motor on a Springer Fork?

 

[MadRhino]

No doubt that a springer fork is stronger than a modern suspension fork, but its function mechanism would be greatly affected by the torque of a hub motor.

The acceleration torque would first sink the fork, then make it bounce as a reaction since it has no dampening.

 

[amberwolf]

Couldn't damping be added to such a fork? (not that it would stop the first reaction)

 

[MadRhino]

Well, one could replace the spring(s) with shocks.

 

[damcard]

I have wanted to try it on a girder fork. -Damcard

 

[gogo]

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11840&p=179570
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11580&p=176302

I did it with a stock e-bikekit.com DD motor/controller and it seemed to work fine. Those springers have "friction damping". :lol: I had mine with enough pre-load that it didn't sink or bounce.

I especially like the way the torque arm tucked up to the side of the straight member. Also, if the axle spun it would remain captured by the "slot-hole" in the straight member. You could put a rear motor up there if you wanted because the construction allows easy spread.