That’s a good question. If it can handle a front rack with a load is that different than the force of a front e-hub?I think this question is unanswerable - there's a hesitation sentiment in doing so, I believe, mainly related to concerns about the abrupt failure mode of the material. But who knows how your fork is engineered for increased stresses, what with the low rider mounts and the like.
Just my layman's take on it.
And the bikeOn, as wellUpfront costs for a hub drive setup can be higher lately, however the long term maintenance cost is going to be low due to the simplicity. Pains in the ass on the side of the road will be greatly reduced. Also, unlike a mid drive, you are not going to be eating chains and drivetrain parts. Friction drive may consume tires and rollers.
What you're looking for specifically is very low weight, which makes your entry into a hub drive more expensive because you must select specialized components.
Like right now if you had loose requirements then you could have bought a 6.5lbs geared hub motor kit for $200 shipped in the USA, then bought one of these cheap batteries & had a good time for $400 all in.
Unfortunately there are only a couple very light, lowish power addon mid drives that would be suitable for the use case you want.
Yikes. Super expensive, but interesting.bikeOn looks awesome, i think it would fit OP's wants really well ( easily removable ), too bad it's out of our theoretical budget.
Really hoping they get the price down next bike season. I kinda want one.
Awesome! You're amazing! You're buying it for me for Christmas, right?From what I've read of meta's posts I think he would be most happy with one of these:
Turbo Vado SL 5.0 EQ
When charging - yes, such as in ammo boxes or fire-resistant enclosures, and/or at "away" locations. While riding, not that I recall.
Maybe not this model, but the Specialized e-bikes have been selling at deep discounts due to the inventory glut. I see the turbo como (lower end, $3400 msrp) for $1900 and change. Smaller motor, but still 70Nm.From what I've read of meta's posts I think he would be most happy with one of these:
Turbo Vado SL 5.0 EQ
The Q100H is closer to 5lb than 3 lbs. The Q100C is narrower and may get under 4 lbs. Never used the cassette version,My next build will likely be with the Q100H, which is under 3 lb and is the size of a drum brake. Drawing less than 400W means less battery and smaller controller, saving weight.
When charging - yes, such as in ammo boxes or fire-resistant enclosures, and/or at "away" locations. While riding, not that I recall.
Yes the main hubmotor forces try to twist the axle out of the dropouts. That force gets transfered to the fork legs, trying to twist them in the opposite direction of the spinning wheel. Combined with additive forces from hitting bumps and potholes.That’s a good question. If it can handle a front rack with a load is that different than the force of a front e-hub?
Stock hybrid bike is carbon fork.Yes the main hubmotor forces try to twist the axle out of the dropouts. That force gets transfered to the fork legs, trying to twist them in the opposite direction of the spinning wheel. Combined with additive forces from hitting bumps and potholes.
Higher powered hubmotors are generally not advised for CF forks, also not advised for aluminum or magnesium suspension forks. CF has been shown to fail spectacularly when subjected to forces it was not designed for.
Will yours be OK? Hard to really know. Might be OK with a lower powered motor. A steel replacement could be the solution. Bonus: Relatively simple revert to stock bike condition.
Forks
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One more thing - rim brakes eat rims. Faster on e-bikes. If you are not keen on wheel lacing then perhaps it is time to think of upgrading to disc brakes if possible.
I've been through several iterations of both. I found that disc brakes would often overheat or fade when continuously going down steep hills, whereas my Magura hydraulic rim brakes have never had that problem.Depends on how much turning you are doing.
In the world of road bikes a wheel built with rim brake spacing is well known to be better at descending than a rim built with disc brake spacing. Being able to descend faster means the brakes are used less.
Appears you are still favoring friction drive, as it best suits your design priorities. Time to list those shortcomings and decide.This is one of the primary reasons I am/was considering the friction drive, despite its shortcomings, it'd work on either without modification and there is a quick release adapter available to easily swap to either bicycle.
Is there a deadline?Appears you are still favoring friction drive, as it best suits your design priorities. Time to list those shortcomings and decide.
The problem comes when you have to remove the wheel or replace pads. Then you'll waste so much time on those brakes that you'll wish you were stopping by dragging your sneakers on the ground.I've been through several iterations of both. I found that disc brakes would often overheat or fade when continuously going down steep hills, whereas my Magura hydraulic rim brakes have never had that problem.
I find the hydraulics easier to adjust when a wheel goes out of true and more responsive than mechanical.The problem comes when you have to remove the wheel or replace pads. Then you'll waste so much time on those brakes that you'll wish you were stopping by dragging your sneakers on the ground.
P.S. - All rim brakes have the same maximum capacity for any given rim. No hydraulics required or even desirable.
"Designed specifically for our ADVENT Super Short and Sword Black, this 9-speed, 11-38T cassette provides wide range and low gears. It’s built with the same precision and durability as our wider range cassettes. And yes, it works with a standard HG freehub body and a normal 9-speed chain."BTW this motor doesn't mention compatibility with microshift. Assume all hub motors with casettes are the typical HG type. Losing a gear won't be a big deal.