ICE engine, 4.6L Ford, Intake Manifold Basket, what for?

Maf maf maf
MAF? It should be 40 bucks or so :wink:

I have had to diagnoise my cars first hand before letting them go to the mechanics because they an't find no fault codes or anything so better of giving them the answer and the parts so they can repair and change the parts for their hourly fee.

Crank sensor is kind of a abs sensor but its located at the crank and it can start if its in the right starting position at the start but wont start if its the position is wrong and the sensor is bad.

And old perfecly serviced car is way better than a heap of unknown unknown uknown. That old man traded down.
 
bad idle, runs when cold and has choke assist, stalls when the motor warms up and choke is off, sounds more and more to me like inadequate fuel flow. i asked but never heard if he had established that fuel flow was adequate.
 
leffex said:
Maf maf maf
MAF? It should be 40 bucks or so :wink:

For a 2005 4.6L, an Mass Air Flow sensor goes for $50 USD online and $120 USD at the local parts store.
I tried testing it via these instructions, and it seemed to pass. However, a more detailed article advocates (basically) replacing the PCV before testing the MAF. He gives 2 rules before begining the test.
  • make sure there's no vacuum leaks.
  • " Verify that the manufacturer-speci-
    fied PCV valve is correctly installed and
    functioning as designed. (This is one in-
    stance where precautionary replace-
    ment may be cost-justified."

So, in order to test the MAF further, I need to replace the PCV first, which on this car is more expensive than usual because it has a heater. To just guess-replace MAF, I need to replace both the MAF and PCV. And if it were my car, I probably do that just to eliminate them as a possibility. But it's not my car, and from a non-technical environment, guess-replacing presents some problems.
I'd have to explain to my old housemate that we need to experimentally replace these parts. He won't understand and will expect the car to run afterwards. This has already happened in a sense. Thus, regarding that sensor, I'm sort of stalled in the project.
Besides, I'm not getting any codes pointing to the MAF. The engine isn't giving any codes at all now.

But I'm now ambivalent regarding continued repairing of this car. On the one hand, I've invested so much time, I'd like to see the project through. Honestly, that's the real reason I want it running now. If I had any obligation to my housemate, I've way over paid already. (This isn't the only think I've done for him, I should add.)
But on the other hand, spending time on this car has caused serious neglects in my own life. I really need to spend my time doing things that will improve my own (+ wife & gone kids) condition. I'm behind on everything, including my little business. Doing few-hour repair jobs for my housemate was acceptable. But working day after day to restore a junk car (polished on the outside, though) is really a waste. And even if I get this car going, it will probably fall apart for some new failure soon. (The air-suspension is about to die for one thing.) It's a poorly-maintained car with 280,000 miles (450,000 km) on it. That's more than the distance to the moon.

And, btw, I just learned I should correct a previous statement that relied on what my housemate had said. He didn't pay $1,000 + his previous car. The truth is it was $1,800 + his previous car. Basically, someone talked him out of his car.

Today, I began to realize that my housemate getting scammed is one thing, but I'm compounding the scam by being sucker #2. At this point, I'm the real victim here, and I didn't even realize it.

So today (after 4+ months of devoting all my available time to this), I began the process of - figuratively - getting out from under this car. I tried to explain the tech situation, and then I told my housemate he needs a different car. He got angry and upset, and to justify his anger, he even recounted some events differently from the way they had happened. He doesn't want to own responsibility for the problem.
Although he won't directly say as much, he holds me at fault for this car not running.
But I never drove it before it died, he didn't consulted me before buying it, and I'm not getting paid anything for working on it.
It's a symptom of senility to use irritation and irrational fact-changing as a defense. You've heard of "crabby old person"?

So this thread may end unfulfilled. Maybe I'll stop working on it (but perhaps it's a pity; maybe all it now needs at this stage is a MAF sensor).

leffex said:
I have had to diagnoise my cars first hand before letting them go to the mechanics because they an't find no fault codes or anything so better of giving them the answer and the parts so they can repair and change the parts for their hourly fee.

Crank sensor is kind of a abs sensor but its located at the crank and it can start if its in the right starting position at the start but wont start if its the position is wrong and the sensor is bad.

And old perfecly serviced car is way better than a heap of unknown unknown uknown. That old man traded down.
 
I was in a similar position with my son's Bronco. It actually ran pretty well, but couldn't pass the smog check and couldn't get registered. I gave up on it eventually.

Low fuel rail pressure could lean it. I don't remember if you checked the fuel pressure. Most of them have a fuel pressure regulator somewhere and there should be a Schrader valve (just like a bike tire) for connecting a pressure gauge. On the Bronco I seem to recall the pressure was around 40 psi. There was a vacuum hose connected to the regulator that would change the output depending on manifold pressure.

Throttle position sensors have a bad track record but almost always set a code when they fail.
 
that is what i was thinking too. if it dies after it warms up that implies there is not enuff fuel pressure for the injectors to make it run without the extra injector into the manifold for cold start. that is what i was thinking.

no power under load too, but no ignition failures flagged.>> fuel pressure.
 
NO NehmO - You are not giving up. I got $37.99 invested in this project.
2005 2006 Ford Service Manual Set DVD cost $38.

leffex said:
Nehmo are you a mechanic. Can i come work for you?
Hows the weather in Kansas? Do you have room for a third roommate? Fly this guy in from Sweden. Leffex I assume you are a guy? If you female? No problem. It might be time for some more help with this project. Another option would be to forget about this trouble prone stinky gasoline engine and convert car to electric.

Lets take a few steps back.
marty said:
PO102
PO174
PO351
PO352
PO353
PO354
P2106
P2195
P0102 OBD-II Trouble Code
Basically this means that there is a problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit.

Symptoms
You will likely not notice any serious drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a general decrease in power or sluggishness.
 
I don't know if these codes were caused by unplugging stuff while engine was running?

When I set date to 2004 in my computer, Photoshop spins in circles and jams up. No more looking at service manual in this computer. Having to set the date in the past is hookey.

Copy from obd-codes.com
PO102 = Mass Air Flow (MAF)
PO174 = The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty.
PO351 = Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction, open or a short is detected in the driver circuit for coil number 1
PO352 = Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction, open or a short is detected in the driver circuit for coil number 2
PO353 = Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction, open or a short is detected in the driver circuit for coil number 3
PO354 = Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction, open or a short is detected in the driver circuit for coil number 4
Copy from engine-codes.com
P2106 Ford - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited Power
P2195 O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1

What I think? PO102 + PO174 Said it before and say it again MAF!
PO351, 2, 3, + 4 My guess is Nehmo unplugged some coil wires while engine was running.
P2106 I know nothing about this? Get that service manual fired up or go stick your head in the sand.
P2195 My guess is the engine saying "I am not feeling well"

P0106...... ESM? you replaced it.

Lets be careful to only look at the codes that were set by the computer, after that Nehmo might have set codes by unplugging stuff while engine was running.
 
Man that was a big list of codes as I read them before as well.. but the most hard is you are doing it for the old and grumpy man. but you live there so yea you are very nice to this old fella.

limited power limp mode.. something is wrong. that 450 000 km is alot I didn't take that into account...

02 senso bank error is lean, some air leak somewere. also alot of codes somtimes means there is not all the problems but one main problem code can trigger a few...

electric errors are often only missfires from my knowledge

i change my "one" lambda sensor i had when getting a run lean code on my car, after I did that it worked flawlessly and no more of that code again.

fuel errors I havnen't ever had but I would suspect it will include harder to start or non-starting car and also missfires or bad running at high rpms as there is not enough flow of fuel to the engine(injectors that have alof of rust or alike plugging will also limit high rpm performance or give errors)

hard starting was my problem when I had error on my camchaft sensor or, how i spotted the error was that rev limit was set to 4000rpm or engine in limp mode, it took some time to fix it after it started much easier and I could take it for a ride and it was epic and like sitting on Supermans back. As the car finally was able to do 7000rpm i could fly high in hormones. I also change electric leads 4x 4 clylinder engine and one of the two coils.

I did change maf on one of my cars, also it having some kind of injector error.I also changed two of the four injectors the most "warm running ones", the two in the middle, added a new lambda sensor and then problems stopped. maf also added more fuel to the engine than the old maf getting back the "new car feeling" again. (I could start my car before and after no problem I just rid my fault codes...)

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013/09/service-issues-on-ford-4-6l-sohc-dohc-engines/
some issues with the 4.6l ford engine 3 pages f information and some common faults.

http://repairpal.com/rough-running-engine-and-possible-check-engine-light-282
electri coil problem, and leads.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/how-to-test-the-fuel-pump-1
fuel pump no start, how to test

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/how-to-test-the-crankshaft-position-sensor-1
how to test crankshaft sensor

You highlighted maf... i didnt mean I know it was that that was the problem. I suspect its not important for starting purposes but haven't tried if its needed for start or not... error code 102, 103 and you dont have those.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/how-to-test-the-fuel-injectors-1
i dont think you need to do this one injector test.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/cam-sensor-tests-1
this one can be good to look at, camshaft sensor how to test "long time to start..."
 
still seems like fuel delivery problem from his last description. especially since the fuel pump was removed and then replaced. alotta junk coulda been freed up inside the fuel pump output hose imo. old filter which has clogged?
 
Without any further testing, I replaced the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and, as I previously reported, the EGR module (which contains the EGR valve and the equivalent of the MAP manifold absolute pressure sensor). Nothing improved.
Yes, Marty, I finally got the Service Manual to open. My previous computer's hard drive failed, and I had to get a new $200 Asus laptop. On this machine, using Win 8.1, it worked. Thank you.
I told the car's owner, my next step would be to tow it to the Lincoln dealer and have them put it on their engine/computer analyzer for $100 (+tow, of course which I would arrange). As I expected, he didn't like that and got mad at me.
Also, by placing a wanted ad on craigslist.org, I found him a running car for $500. He didn't want that because, he said, he is still paying off this one. He hasn't been completely forthcoming about the deal he made. I suspect he is too ashamed to say how much he really paid for this car.
He then apparently moved out and is now living with a friend couple of his. (These are terrible crack-using people who steal money from him. They play-up to him by calling him "Dad", and this makes him ignore all their indiscretions. BTW, he is not in any way rich, living on a 2K$/mo pension).
Anyway, a few days ago, he brought over a guy who was going to remove the catalytic converters. The guy, apparently, wasn't going to replace them with a pipe and was just going to walk off with them (and sell them, of course). My friend is a super sucker, and I then had the problem of trying to stay out of the affair but warn him at the same time. Fortunately, he then changed his mind about the catalytic-removing guy, and now he has someone else. The new guy "has a computer that he will use on the car". This is probably is just a code reader, but the car isn't producing any codes now.
He towed the car away yesterday to park it near where is is currently staying. Fine.
Although fixing this car was never explicitly connected to our staying here, it's going to work out that way. We, my wife, my dog, and I, need to move out of this house anyway. The neighborhood is bad for my dog (the most anti-dog area I've ever lived in; it's not a white neighborhood), and we don't like it either. If I really told you guys the complete story of what we've went through from being here, you would either not believe me or think I was nuts for staying here at all.
The worst thing is not completing the project. I don't like abandoning something incomplete, and I could have played things out differently. But enough is enough and I'm being taken advantage of. With that car out of my hands, I now have time to devote attention to some neglected projects. In just these last couple weeks, I've already fixed some of those neglected things on my own car.
Of course, the main project now is getting it together to get out of here.
 
Nehmo - Good luck with "getting it together to get out of here"

Back to 2003 Suzuki Aerio SX. P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)
Fixed this a while ago. Thought I should share the solution.

There is a pan below the gas tank with the EVAP canister and vent valve. Pay attention to how the manual tells you how to separate the plastic quick joint disconnect. It does come apart. Clean it up first. I used kerosene, tooth brush, and compressed air. The bottom of my car is a oily mess due to oil spray rust proofing.

With the pan on a table. Plug all open hoses with plastic bags and rubber bands. Turn the air pressure in the compressor all the way down. Blow low pressure air into a open hose. Spray soapy water on the vent valve. See bubbles. Vent valve is leaking air because it is rusted. Order new vent valve from the dealer. Install. Put it all back together. No more SERVICE ENGINE SOON.

Next project. Dash board has become dark. Need to shine a flash light to see fuel gauge and MPH speed. Here a girl replaces bulbs on a 2002
[youtube]OgXo8T-885w[/youtube]
 
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