improving MXUS 3000 V2

I wouldn't have thought the stock bearings to be too bad - did you bother with yours allex?
 
Samd said:
I wouldn't have thought the stock bearings to be too bad - did you bother with yours allex?

Sam, Allex did that at my request. I don't know how the stock bearings are, but I wanted this motor pimped out to the Max, hence the upgraded phase wires and SKF Bearings. I don't know if Allex did that to his motor. Hey Allex, whats up?
 
Allex said:
Those are 12awg all the way, but first bit is not silicone but heat shrink only.
As for the connectors, use xt150 instead.
You can have the stock hall wires, no problem.

OK Thanks, do you have a temp probe in there also?
Thanks for the headsup using the XT150's!

Also, I unbolted every bolt on the motor, and my cover plate doesnt seem to come off. I dont really want to start marking and chipping up my motor to get the cover plate off. I used a flat head screw driving. What should I do, use a knife and cut around to get the paint from sticking. Thats what it looks like, but my eyes are going anyway.

Im definately doing the 12 awg upgrade, I kind of also want to do the temp probe to inside the motor will be cool too I think.

Whats a good permanent connector for the small hall wires? The one that comes with it, the wires can pop in and out manually and the solder joints stick out.
Is it worthwhile to go somewhat of a lower guage (bigger wire) for the halls?
 
Rix said:
Samd said:
I wouldn't have thought the stock bearings to be too bad - did you bother with yours allex?

Sam, Allex did that at my request. I don't know how the stock bearings are, but I wanted this motor pimped out to the Max, hence the upgraded phase wires and SKF Bearings. I don't know if Allex did that to his motor. Hey Allex, whats up?

Guys I just used one motor for som short test. Right now I don't have a hubmotor bike at all. I guess I would use stock bearings and see how many miles they can go. But I would most probably swap them if I would do oil cooling. SKF bearing have much tighter sealings.

markz, alla V2 comes with Adaptto compatible temp probe.
You dont really need to have bigger cabler for halls unless you want them to be indestructible.
To remove the covers without damaging the covers/stator/magnets use a gear puller I used a big one, 200mm
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The covers have som sort of glue on them so it will take some time for you to remove them just by hands. Or you can smack the wheel on its axle on something soft like a wood floor :) and the stator will come up from the other side.
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I will try that, I was trying to get the other cover off just to look at the halls and such. I wasnt so much trying to get the motor out, or stator or whatever its called.
 
A sharp chisel, bevel positioned upward, to get it started. Then stick a shim in the chisel's place, and do the same from the opposite side of the cover. Should pop off without issue. And don't let the chisel penetrate in further than 1/4", or else you risk damaging the windings. A light tap on the end of the chisel is all you need to break the seal.- If you start on the wire side, remove the Ring clip first.
 
Allex,

Instead of heat shrink have you looked at using ptfe tape? I'm not sure if it would be too thick or if it's not as robust as heat shrink. I'm pretty sure roadrash did the same mod you did for my mxus but the cables are pretty bulky on the way out (from the copper collars). I might redo the job without using copper collars for the splice from 12 to 10

Also has anyone drilled holes into the covers yet? I'm getting pretty high temp after riding 35mph+ for over 10miles. My max temp is usually 180 F. What are safe temps?
 
it should be KTY83-110, wired to GND and white wire.
 
Yes - don't.
They carry a fraction of an amp. Leave them alone.
 
I shouldn't assume a standard sized bike I guess!
 
Can we just open it and spray high temperature black ink (the kind used on exhaust pipes), to add rust resistance?Will the solvent on the spray damage the varnish on the windings?
 
ewinters said:
Can we just open it and spray high temperature black ink (the kind used on exhaust pipes), to add rust resistance?Will the solvent on the spray damage the varnish on the windings?


If you first open the motor you should spray with pitch matt black and also spray the inside of the side covers. Pitch matt black has higher heat emission so you will get a cooler motor as well.
 
I just purchased an MXUS motor and wanted to ask...has anybody just used the stock wires that come with motor?..did it work?
 
korpin said:
I just purchased an MXUS motor and wanted to ask...has anybody just used the stock wires that come with motor?..did it work?

Yes plenty of people here run the stock phase wires, even with hi power and hi current it seems to hold up.
If you see in this thread there are links here for "how to change to beefier phase wires".
 
I've not heard of any of my customers upgrading them FWIW
 
I upgraded the phase wires on my 3T winding to 12AWG PTFE, but I would not bother to upgrade a 4T or slower winding. The easiest solution is to cut the phase wires close to the axle, and splice in some 10AWG Silicone wire from there to the controller. This would get you ~80% of the benefit of upgrading the entire wire run through the axle.

I would say that the stock 2.5mm2 phase wires can handle up to 100A of phase current for extended periods without melting the insulation. - If anyone has ran more than 100 Phase amps through the stock phase wires, or if someone has actually melted the insulation on stock phase wires, please report your findings. :wink:
 
teslanv said:
I upgraded the phase wires on my 3T winding to 12AWG PTFE, but I would not bother to upgrade a 4T or slower winding. The easiest solution is to cut the phase wires close to the axle, and splice in some 10AWG Silicone wire from there to the controller. This would get you ~80% of the benefit of upgrading the entire wire run through the axle.

I would say that the stock 2.5mm2 phase wires can handle up to 100A of phase current for extended periods without melting the insulation. - If anyone has ran more than 100 Phase amps through the stock phase wires, or if someone has actually melted the insulation on stock phase wires, please report your findings. :wink:

I was thinking of upgrading the phase wires on my 4t v2 ( I plan on running up to 100 amps from the battery). Can you provide a link to where you sourced the ptfe 12 awg wire. Did you have to modify the wire to fit it in the axle? Additionally do you know of a good battery amperage to phase amperage ratio for the 4t motor? I have a beefed up 18 fet lyen for higher current ( traces good for 100 amps + ) and I wanted to know a good phase ratio so I don't blow the controller as quickly as I have in the past. :mrgreen: Thanks for your help in advance.
 
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