Is it possible to build a cheapish ebike?

docw009 said:
Jeez. It's got one lever squeezing two v-brakes. How is that going to work?

I'm sure Walmart found a way to screw it up, but that method generally works very well. It's not one lever pulling two brakes. It's one lever pulling one brake, with the braking force from that brake pulling the other brake. It applies the front brake strongly, but when the rear wheel breaks traction, front braking force diminishes-- and if the rear wheel comes off the ground, no force is transmitted to the front brake.
 
Oops, my mistake. Went back and looked at the picture closely after reading Chalo's comment, and I see they didn't use a standard two brake lever on that bike, but a funny arrangement that links the cable to the front brake from the actual rear brake, so everything I've said in this thread about the brakes is wrong! That also means there is no secondary independent brake in case of a failure on the brake lever or cable going to the rear brake, and who knows what other failure points may exist, so I would still recommend putting the two new levers from the kit on, along with a new front cable, but I really don't know if the rear brake will work without the cable that currently runs up to the front brake. Good luck getting it all sorted out. :D
 
The front is actuated in the usual way by the cable; but the cable runs from a special sliding brake pad rather than a lever. It's really not a bad system-- though as I said, Walmart probably cheaped it down until it doesn't work worth a damn. They do the same to normal brakes, though, so there's no real advantage in reverting the brakes to normal unless you also upgrade them.

Since Surestop appears to have staked their business on the Walmart deal, there's a decent chance that the equipment is better than usual.
 
Chalo said:
The front is actuated in the usual way by the cable; but the cable runs from a special sliding brake pad rather than a lever. It's really not a bad system-- though as I said, Walmart probably cheaped it down until it doesn't work worth a damn. They do the same to normal brakes, though, so there's no real advantage in reverting the brakes to normal unless you also upgrade them.

Since Surestop appears to have staked their business on the Walmart deal, there's a decent chance that the equipment is better than usual.



But everyone is telling me to change my bike so what's the point of asking about this bike
 
Jamessaki said:
But everyone is telling me to change my bike so what's the point of asking about this bike
It is mostly a matter of expectations. I bought this bike for my Golden Motor Front Hub a couple of years ago (on sale for $150).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6HGBP6
I did NOT try to use it riding trails or other challenging terrain. It worked and got me back and forth where I needed to go. My problem is that I wanted something lighter .... now I realize that some weight is not necessarily a bad thing. A little weight and wider tires gave that bike more stability on Houston's poor quality pavements that CF Frame road bike I am currently riding.
 
LewTwo said:
Jamessaki said:
But everyone is telling me to change my bike so what's the point of asking about this bike
It is mostly a matter of expectations. I bought this bike for my Golden Motor Front Hub a couple of years ago (on sale for $150).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6HGBP6
I did NOT try to use it riding trails or other challenging terrain. It worked and got me back and forth where I needed to go. My problem is that I wanted something lighter .... now I realize that some weight is not necessarily a bad thing. A little weight and wider tires gave that bike more stability on Houston's poor quality pavements that CF Frame road bike I am currently riding.


that wouldn't work for me because its a 3 speed i need at least 7 speed but thanks for the offer.
 
The overall range (ratio between highest and lowest gears) of the most common 3-speed hub is 186%. The overall range of the most common 7 speed freewheel is 200%. Don't be dazzled by the number of gears.
 
Chalo said:
The overall range (ratio between highest and lowest gears) of the most common 3-speed hub is 186%. The overall range of the most common 7 speed freewheel is 200%. Don't be dazzled by the number of gears.


can you repeat that in simple English lol
 
The gear range of a Nexus 3 hub is 93% as large as the gear range of a 14-28 7-speed freewheel.
 
I think you did fine, and don't have to listen to everybody else talking about what they need. You are good to go for what you need.

Keep the bike, the brakes work fine,, at least they do on my wifes bike. If you rode 30-35 mph you might need better brakes, but at 20 mph, you are good to go. The frame is fine, its not wobbly, as some step through frames are. this one is fairly sturdy. But its not a super choice for 30 mph, that is true. A real electra townie does have a stiffer frame.

Your gears are fine too, unless you want a higher gear. If so, you will have to change the front gear to a larger one. Not hard to do, or expensive.

Use just one of the brake levers that come with the kit, you don't need two. But,,, if you wish to convert that bike to a separate lever for the front, now you have two levers. Personally, I would not bother with it. The brake system on that bike works fine. Bear in mind,, I HAVE ONE. THEY DONT.

48v 25 ah is plenty of battery to go 50 miles, if it actually delivers 25 ah. 2 miles per ah is easy, generally only requiring you to slow to about 15-18 mph. You can get 50 miles from 20 ah by riding less than 15 mph. You got the range I think.

The way that bike is geared, if you pedal so you can feel the effort, you will be going plenty slow enough to do the 50 no problem.
 
lester12483 said:
Go on craigslist and buy a used ebike for $400, build a new SLA battery for $150. Total = $550

The only used bikes are 50+ miles and not close to 450 closer to 1500


How's this 1. https://ibb.co/mZDbza
 
dogman dan said:
I think you did fine, and don't have to listen to everybody else talking about what they need. You are good to go for what you need.

... Bear in mind,, I HAVE ONE. THEY DONT.
That and it being dogman that's saying it are as good assurance as you can expect to get.

If you live in a place where decent, cheap, used bikes are hard to get that happens and is understandable. Either that or you're the type that doesn't want to pay more than $79.95 for a new bike.
 
Jamessaki said:
I posted a steel frame bike but no responses

I hate to split hairs regarding BSOs (bicycle-shaped objects), since they're all best avoided. But if you must get a BSO-- stay far, far away from Roadmaster, Magna, and Next. Those are not redeemable. At all. They are just one slim cut above walking barefoot instead. They rank below walking in passable shoes.
 
Where's the battery going to go. When making a homemade ebikes check to see what shift letters you have with brake levers you have are they connected as a one-piece unit where you going to put the throttle where are you going to put your display look at your handlebars for your at all out where's the battery going to go where's the controller going to go you do this before buying a bicycle. You are now going to be electrical bike technical engineer. Get your tools and fall in love with your new job
 
Chalo said:
Jamessaki said:
I posted a steel frame bike but no responses

I hate to split hairs regarding BSOs (bicycle-shaped objects), since they're all best avoided. But if you must get a BSO-- stay far, far away from Roadmaster, Magna, and Next. Those are not redeemable. At all. They are just one slim cut above walking barefoot instead. They rank below walking in passable shoes.
So IL look for a steel 7+speed bike that's got either suspension or good torque arms

999zip999 said:
Where's the battery going to go. When making a homemade ebikes check to see what shift letters you have with brake levers you have are they connected as a one-piece unit where you going to put the throttle where are you going to put your display look at your handlebars for your at all out where's the battery going to go where's the controller going to go you do this before buying a bicycle. You are now going to be electrical bike technical engineer. Get your tools and fall in love with your new job


I look at handlebArs for groom and the battery will go on a rear rack. Shift letters??? Display between handlebars. Controller on bottom arm or under seat
 
999zip999 said:
...You are now going to be electrical bike technical engineer. Get your tools and fall in love with your new job
That is the only way to achieve building a good cheap bike. Recycle, use everything that you see as potential component to succeed. It can be very cheap. We saw some here, who did build entirely with recycled parts from the junkyards. You have 1000$, don't consider it as a limitation but rather work to build using the least of it. :wink:
 
Jamessaki said:
lester12483 said:
Go on craigslist and buy a used ebike for $400, build a new SLA battery for $150. Total = $550

The only used bikes are 50+ miles and not close to 450 closer to 1500


How's this 1. https://ibb.co/mZDbza
I did have a Roadmaster Granite bike converted to electric and it was decent for a first ebike. The steel horizontal rear dropouts are much better for a rear motor than for example thick aluminum vertical dropouts.
 
If you're happy with less than 20mph, you don't need any suspension at all, front or rear. For a budget build that actually holds up for a while and is an appropriate size for you, maybe consider something like this, instead of a BSO:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/swift-flatbar-hybrid-xiv.htm

That's about as cheap as an actual new bicycle gets. It still needs to be set in order by a knowledgeable person so it doesn't grind itself up.

In your price range, don't worry about steel vs aluminum. Cheap steel bikes are likely to be soft enough that a hub motor axle bends the dropouts and spins out anyway, if you don't use torque arms.
 
Chalo said:
If you're happy with less than 20mph, you don't need any suspension at all, front or rear. For a budget build that actually holds up for a while and is an appropriate size for you, maybe consider something like this, instead of a BSO:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/swift-flatbar-hybrid-xiv.htm

That's about as cheap as an actual new bicycle gets. It still needs to be set in order by a knowledgeable person so it doesn't grind itself up.

In your price range, don't worry about steel vs aluminum. Cheap steel bikes are likely to be soft enough that a hub motor axle bends the dropouts and spins out anyway, if you don't use torque arms.


What if I want a basic steel cheap for now n upgrade later
 
Sure, it's only a matter of the compromises you're willing to accept. At some point down the price scale, the thing either doesn't work right most of the time, or requires you to repair it very frequently, or both.

However, I suggest that if "one size" pants wouldn't suit you, a one-size bike won't suit you either. Most one-size BSOs are approximately right for an average adolescent or a short adult.
 
Chalo said:
Sure, it's only a matter of the compromises you're willing to accept. At some point down the price scale, the thing either doesn't work right most of the time, or requires you to repair it very frequently, or both.

However, I suggest that if "one size" pants wouldn't suit you, a one-size bike won't suit you either. Most one-size BSOs are approximately right for an average adolescent or a short adult.


Yeah but I'd rather not wait on shipping as I am almost ready to build
 
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