Is it possible to build a cheapish ebike?

The folks here ARE great in providing tidbits of helpful info and knowledge,.. and sometimes its rather incidental to the topics at hand! Like "common overall gear ratios" to compare to what I have, what I really need, what's "normal" and what I would really like! Thanks folks. And REALLY watch those cheap bike purchases,... "off the floor", many won't last even a year. Take the time to check EVERY spoke, nut, bolt, and bearing, then grease, lube and adjust properly,... you'll extend the life GREATLY!!! Otherwise, it WILL jus grind up in short order!

I don't generally include the battery as part of my build cost. Yes, ya gotta have one! But to me, it's part of a "PREPAID COST" of expected power needed to operate it. The other part is the charging costs that's applied over time and paid with the monthly electric bill. That battery CAN BE a significant investment in the anticipated future power needed, regardless of a "cheap" inexpensive build or quality build of comfort and durability. Those choices often lean toward desired safety margins, and the future expenses of maintenance, upkeep and repair (ya get what ya pay for?). The choice of battery leans more toward mileage range desired and power output to a certain degree (and,... ya get what ya pay for!).

My tiny 11.5ah 52v battery can supply a wild near 40mph ride for 10mi on my solid $1000 build (not including battery),.... but with the controller "adjusted" mildly, I can also get 30-40mi at a safe comfortable 12-15mph. And although I've yet a long test run at 10mph or so,... I do believe I could expect that 50mi on a good charge.

"I can afford THIS much for a build. But what can I afford to invest in the future "power" costs required for what I expect of my build???"

Strange perspective??? Maybe,... but I've never looked "normal" anyway.
 
DRMousseau said:
The folks here ARE great in providing tidbits of helpful info and knowledge,.. and sometimes its rather incidental to the topics at hand! Like "common overall gear ratios" to compare to what I have, what I really need, what's "normal" and what I would really like! Thanks folks. And REALLY watch those cheap bike purchases,... "off the floor", many won't last even a year. Take the time to check EVERY spoke, nut, bolt, and bearing, then grease, lube and adjust properly,... you'll extend the life GREATLY!!! Otherwise, it WILL jus grind up in short order!

I don't generally include the battery as part of my build cost. Yes, ya gotta have one! But to me, it's part of a "PREPAID COST" of expected power needed to operate it. The other part is the charging costs that's applied over time and paid with the monthly electric bill. That battery CAN BE a significant investment in the anticipated future power needed, regardless of a "cheap" inexpensive build or quality build of comfort and durability. Those choices often lean toward desired safety margins, and the future expenses of maintenance, upkeep and repair (ya get what ya pay for?). The choice of battery leans more toward mileage range desired and power output to a certain degree (and,... ya get what ya pay for!).

My tiny 11.5ah 52v battery can supply a wild near 40mph ride for 10mi on my solid $1000 build (not including battery),.... but with the controller "adjusted" mildly, I can also get 30-40mi at a safe comfortable 12-15mph.

"I can afford THIS much for a build. But what can I afford to invest in the future "power" costs required for what I expect of my build???"

Strange perspective??? Maybe,... but I've never looked "normal" anyway.
Click to expand...


Please don't assume I'm ungrateful for all the advice I truly am but same time I got debts and other stuff going on where this is just my basic to and from to get by and hope that in the end when drama is done and I can breath again. Then IL look into changing bike or controller or battery
 
Yes, it's possible but will diminish the experience.
 
Nearly all the cheap bikes have gearing suitable for pedalling in the range 8 to 12 mph. If You're relatively fit, you can keep your legs going to maybe 20 mph, but you wouldn't want to do that for long. When you fit a 1000w kit, your average speed will be closer to 20 mph, so your legs cant or won't want to pedal anymore.

Most rear hub-motors only take free-wheel gear-sets, where the normal top gear has 14 teeth. You can get round that by fitting a a DNP freewheel with 11T top gear. Despite what you'll hear people say, there's nothing wrong with them. Mine has done 4000 miles and shows no sign of wear. I've been using them for years and done something like 15000 miles in total without problems. you get them from Aliexpress for about $20.

Alternatively, you can fit a bigger chainring at the front, but that can be more complicated. You have to look at the clearance of the back edge to the chainstay to see how much bigger you can go. You can get a bit more clearance by adding a spacer in your bottom bracket, but you can't go too far without upsetting the chain-line.

You should be aiming for gearing of something like 11T/48T. Anything with a ratio bigger than 1:4 should be OK. Typical on a cheap bike is 14T/42T, which is 1:3.

If you're going to ride around all the time using the throttle without pedalling, none of this matters, but it'll shorten your range a lot.

If the bike has hub-gears and you fit a front motor, you only need to change the sprocket on the hub-gears to a smaller one, if you can get one.
 
Ok, you want steel, here is the best, cheap steel bike to make into an e bike that Walmart has.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Men-s-Margaritaville-Multi-Speed-Cruiser-Bike-Blue/47443508

Why is it so good? The frame is heavy, but it will be strong as they get pretty much. 7 speed rear gearing which is good for rear hub motor conversions. The thing that puts this bike over the top is the super strong welded on rear rack. It can carry just about any weight you want to put on it, though the bike will handle poorly if its really a lot of weight. The fenders and chain guard are also a plus, keeping your shoes and pants from getting so soiled on the ride, when the weather turns bad.

Sure, lots of people want, and need a nicer bike. But if you want steel, sturdy, and cheap, this is the one. the way its built is not trying to have 21 gears, so they don't have the tin foil crank the roadbastard has. Making the bike simpler, they can build it sturdier for cheap.

But if you want a really nice cruiser, go buy a 7 speed electra townie.

But, I still insist that the Schwinn you have is just fine. The aluminum frame is strong enough, unless you weigh 350 pounds. Its fine for my wife, and shes not built like a bird.
 
dogman dan said:
Ok, you want steel, here is the best, cheap steel bike to make into an e bike that Walmart has.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Men-s-Margaritaville-Multi-Speed-Cruiser-Bike-Blue/47443508

Why is it so good? The frame is heavy, but it will be strong as they get pretty much. 7 speed rear gearing which is good for rear hub motor conversions. The thing that puts this bike over the top is the super strong welded on rear rack. It can carry just about any weight you want to put on it, though the bike will handle poorly if its really a lot of weight. The fenders and chain guard are also a plus, keeping your shoes and pants from getting so soiled on the ride, when the weather turns bad.

Sure, lots of people want, and need a nicer bike. But if you want steel, sturdy, and cheap, this is the one. the way its built is not trying to have 21 gears, so they don't have the tin foil crank the roadbastard has. Making the bike simpler, they can build it sturdier for cheap.

But if you want a really nice cruiser, go buy a 7 speed electra townie.

But, I still insist that the Schwinn you have is just fine. The aluminum frame is strong enough, unless you weigh 350 pounds. Its fine for my wife, and shes not built like a bird.
Click to expand...


I want to use it (the Schwinn) but I'm going crazy with all the research
 
https://s18.postimg.org/49037kixl/Screenshot_20170703-114948.png


This is what I bought and the 1 star review was the chain broke but I did test ride the bike out in the store it didn't snap but if it does IL buy a new chain and fix myself it's all steel
 
I get this question all the time...Cheap is better
My answer is always the same, buy the heaviest bike you can afford.
 
19858480_10210732524282250_1796355565_n.jpg



I dont think the rear rack will ever fit.
 
Building yourself a bike, is also making fit what doesn't. Instead of the cheap torque arm that comes with the kit, cut your torque plates off a scrap piece of 4" angle stock. Then you can make them longer, drill mounting holes for a rear rack, mud guard, etc...
 
MadRhino said:
Building yourself a bike, is also making fit what doesn't. Instead of the cheap torque arm that comes with the kit, cut your torque plates off a scrap piece of 4" angle stock. Then you can make them longer, drill mounting holes for a rear rack, mud guard, etc...
Click to expand...


I am going to remove the left and right shifters and the derailleur and mount a under bar shiftier instead
 
bingosunnoon said:
I get this question all the time...Cheap is better
My answer is always the same, buy the heaviest bike you can afford.
Click to expand...

Don't know what to say about this....

Marry the fattest woman you can find.

Eat as much food as you can stand.

Drive the biggest truck the law allows.

The cheapest house you can buy is the best one to live in.

This advice is just as good as what you just said.
 
Chalo said:
bingosunnoon said:
I get this question all the time...Cheap is better
My answer is always the same, buy the heaviest bike you can afford.
Click to expand...

Don't know what to say about this....

Marry the fattest woman you can find.

Eat as much food as you can stand.

Drive the biggest truck the law allows.

The cheapest house you can buy is the best one to live in.

This advice is just as good as what you just said.
Click to expand...


Then what do you recommend?
 
I already gave you a link to a bike that represents the cheapest thing you can get (new) that's worth the trouble to convert. You can get a better bike for less money, used-- but that requires an experienced eye to avoid buying a bike you'll have to spend a lot more on to make it roadworthy.

If you already have that Schwinn ladies bike, use it. That's your least expensive option that might turn out OK. But have a professional go through it and rectify any problems before they compound themselves.
 
Chalo said:
I already gave you a link to a bike that represents the cheapest thing you can get (new) that's worth the trouble to convert. You can get a better bike for less money, used-- but that requires an experienced eye to avoid buying a bike you'll have to spend a lot more on to make it roadworthy.

If you already have that Schwinn ladies bike, use it. That's your least expensive option that might turn out OK. But have a professional go through it and rectify any problems before they compound themselves.
Click to expand...


I have replaced it with a huffy nighthawk with disc brakes and stuff I hope the thumb throttle is easier and I also plan to soider the wires together
 
The Huffy will probably be a worse bike in every regard, but if it's the one you've got, try it.
 
Hey, maybe Huffy have stepped up their game lately, but I sure wouldn't bet on it. They've been making garbage for generations.
 
Ahh just to clear things up .... that Huffy has a FRONT disk brake. The REAR wheel has "V" brakes.

https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/f4244d7d-74f7-45ec-9e1f-a0a521bc21a5_1.6bffd6a1e07dd7d2fe4c5e946413c746.jpeg
 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Men-s-Margaritaville-Multi-Speed-Cruiser-Bike-Blue/474435084bdbdf10-db7a-40ed-89ea-137c9a20bc5a_1.19bee3f0b072c18c9c66a82b15aa21ec.jpg
 
Well if anyone saw my blueprint that's my goal and parts list I hope it goes well I also hope with thumb throttle I wont need to replace parts on the bike like wiring
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
BionX repurposing matching hall sensors with phases
Replies
12
Views
148
Jeff23spl
J
Skyler
Real spot welding machines. Which is the better deal ?
Replies
3
Views
1,417
Skyler
Skyler
A
E-bike build Overvolting dd hub motor
2
Replies
27
Views
681
E-HP
E-HP
Skyler
unconventional ebike motors.
2 3 4 5 6
Replies
143
Views
7,195
Skyler
Skyler
H
Building not an eBike.
Replies
17
Views
680
heavylift
H
Back
Top