dingoEsride
100 kW
Gee I really wish you havnt got financial issues with this awesome build you've got going, I'm sure lots here will help out to see the completed project, just shout out
jonescg's NEW electric racebike BUILD thread!
- Thread starter jonescg
- Start date
jonescg
100 MW
Well, I have financial issues period. :lol: The bike has to come after rent and bills, but sadly that means slow going. I really need a set of wheels to get this thing rolling. From there lots of other stuff will flow on - brakes, chain and sprockets, fairings, linkages etc. I have been trawling the web for information on which wheels will fit the Ducati swingarm. Eventually I will have to get one custom built so I can fit standard 6.00" wide wheel to the rear.
If anyone owns a Suzuki GSXR, please run out to the shed now and measure the rear wheel. Tell me the year model, the engine capacity and the width of the rear wheel. Then tell me the tyre profiles (like, is it a 190/55 or a 180/55 etc). I suspect a 180/55 is as big as I can go on the Duc swinger. I also need to know what's compatible with brakes.
Hope to have a bit more progress to report next weekend (a couple of day's work will come through then).
If anyone owns a Suzuki GSXR, please run out to the shed now and measure the rear wheel. Tell me the year model, the engine capacity and the width of the rear wheel. Then tell me the tyre profiles (like, is it a 190/55 or a 180/55 etc). I suspect a 180/55 is as big as I can go on the Duc swinger. I also need to know what's compatible with brakes.
Hope to have a bit more progress to report next weekend (a couple of day's work will come through then).
jonescg
100 MW
Ripperton eat your your heart out!
I have installed a 175 amp Anderson on the battery mount, and will mount the other one on the pack as part of the battery locating ledge. So yes, that means QuickSwap batteries for Voltron-Evo!
Still need to tidy it up a bit and put some more supporting welds on it to stop the connector from bending and mis-aligning.
Of course, I can't actually afford one battery, let alone two...
I have installed a 175 amp Anderson on the battery mount, and will mount the other one on the pack as part of the battery locating ledge. So yes, that means QuickSwap batteries for Voltron-Evo!
Still need to tidy it up a bit and put some more supporting welds on it to stop the connector from bending and mis-aligning.Of course, I can't actually afford one battery, let alone two...
Grinhill
10 kW
Hi Chris, great work so far. 8)
I just happen to have an old GSXR in the shed! Bought it last week, it's a 1997 600 track bike. Apparently the brakes have been swapped to 750 units, but I couldn't tell you what the difference is. Caveat - some of the other parts may be ring-ins also!
The measurements are just eyeballed so a bit rough, let me know if you need a bit more precision on anything.
So, wheel is fitted with a 180/55 slick (measures 180mm :wink: ), and outer rim width measurement is 172mm (this measurement is quite accurate).
Swingarm is approx 257mm across, made up of 50mm (drive side) plus tyre (180mm) plus 27mm (brake side).
On the drive side ,inside of swingarm to face of sprocket is approx 25mm, while on brake side, inside of swingarm to face of disc is approx 32mm.
Attached photos may also be of some help.
I'll be giving this bike a run at a track day at Eastern Creek in a few weeks, hope it goes OK, although for $1800 I'm not expecting it to be terribly special :lol: .
I just happen to have an old GSXR in the shed! Bought it last week, it's a 1997 600 track bike. Apparently the brakes have been swapped to 750 units, but I couldn't tell you what the difference is. Caveat - some of the other parts may be ring-ins also!
The measurements are just eyeballed so a bit rough, let me know if you need a bit more precision on anything.
So, wheel is fitted with a 180/55 slick (measures 180mm :wink: ), and outer rim width measurement is 172mm (this measurement is quite accurate).
Swingarm is approx 257mm across, made up of 50mm (drive side) plus tyre (180mm) plus 27mm (brake side).
On the drive side ,inside of swingarm to face of sprocket is approx 25mm, while on brake side, inside of swingarm to face of disc is approx 32mm.
Attached photos may also be of some help.
I'll be giving this bike a run at a track day at Eastern Creek in a few weeks, hope it goes OK, although for $1800 I'm not expecting it to be terribly special :lol: .
Mike Edwards
10 mW
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2012
- Messages
- 29
I think I've mentioned it before but if you can find a set of wheels from a GSXR1000K9 onwards I would highly recommend them. When we raced British SuperBikes the K9 stock wheels were lighter than the aluminium Marchesini wheels we tried. Fortunately the magnesium Marchesini wheels were even lighter although surprisingly not that much lighter given they were 16.5" instead of 17".
jonescg
100 MW
Thanks guys!
It looks like no GSXR wheel will fit in my Ducati swingarm
I have 240 mm from inside to inside, which means even the older 5.5" wide wheels still won't fit. The spacers have very little meat left to remove. So I might be going back to the Ducati 900 supersport rear wheel. Which is not all bad, but until I get the tougher custom swingarm made I will have to ride Italian for a bit while I progress other parts of the build.
And have fun at the track! Turn one is a pucker-up corner. You can always go through there faster than you think
It looks like no GSXR wheel will fit in my Ducati swingarm
I have 240 mm from inside to inside, which means even the older 5.5" wide wheels still won't fit. The spacers have very little meat left to remove. So I might be going back to the Ducati 900 supersport rear wheel. Which is not all bad, but until I get the tougher custom swingarm made I will have to ride Italian for a bit while I progress other parts of the build.And have fun at the track! Turn one is a pucker-up corner. You can always go through there faster than you think
jonescg
100 MW
Small amount of progress to report; I have finally made up the unique copper fork terminals which will go on each 175 V battery. These will slide in from the side, or be lowered into the pack as it lies on the bench (more likely) and the stainless nuts are tightened down over the top. I wanted studs because they meant there would be no potential for a stray nut or washer to go tumbling around with high voltages around. It does mean the washer will fall victim to gravity, foiling my alignment somewhat.
I took an old flat 40C cell and with a PCB, held it in place while I determined the lengths. Seems to have worked out for the most part. Making sure I get the alignment right when I solder these last two terminals on will be the challenge. I reckon I could probably push them to where I want them on the studs, tighten down, then wood glue a stick between them to hole their spacing. I would then solder the pair on knowing that they should line up.
Oh, and I went looking for some wheels and when I realised I didn't have enough money, I bought a set of clip-ons instead. Looks more bike like now, but the wheels will really make it look the part
I took an old flat 40C cell and with a PCB, held it in place while I determined the lengths. Seems to have worked out for the most part. Making sure I get the alignment right when I solder these last two terminals on will be the challenge. I reckon I could probably push them to where I want them on the studs, tighten down, then wood glue a stick between them to hole their spacing. I would then solder the pair on knowing that they should line up.
Oh, and I went looking for some wheels and when I realised I didn't have enough money, I bought a set of clip-ons instead. Looks more bike like now, but the wheels will really make it look the part
Yankee1919
1 mW
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2013
- Messages
- 15
That is looking like a great build!
Keep up the work, life, bills, beer and bikes!
Tony
Los Angeles
Keep up the work, life, bills, beer and bikes!
Tony
Los Angeles
jonescg
100 MW
Finished the frame mounts for the battery. The front mount needs to have a couple of wedge-shaped washers installed so the angle iron sits flush with the battery pack, but otherwise I'm ready to get the battery pack ledges made. These will be bits of thick plastic (8 mm probably) which will be screwed and glued from the inside of the pack. Then 11 mm holes will be drilled where the studs line up, and the whole lot will sit neatly on the ledges while the base tray takes the rest of the load.
I have aligned the quickswap connectors and stuck the big Anderson connectors on the cables. Looking pretty solid now!
I have aligned the quickswap connectors and stuck the big Anderson connectors on the cables. Looking pretty solid now!
jonescg
100 MW
I decided to tackle the nosecone and instrument panel today.
After placing an order for the upper fairing stay, I was contacted by the seller who said the part I'd ordered and paid $100 for was in fact the wrong one, and the correct one was a plastic mount with a space for the instrument cluster. The new part was only $50, so I said, OK I'll take it and you can give me some change. I got my fairing stay but still got no change :x . Looks like someone is going to get some negative feedback...
Anyway, after much head scratching I decided to use some aluminium plate and spacers, and make a front stay to bolt onto the front of the bike frame. It's not pretty, but it's light and strong. I took a bit of 6 mm Lexan and mounted this in the middle of the instrument cluster and cut a slot for the Cycle Analyst, and with a bracket at the back, I can now install the CA and plug it in with the nosecone off, then simply mount the nosecone with four M6 bolts where the mirrors are supposed to go. It's not really square, so I need to ream out the hole to the left a bit and tighten. Once in place I can put two more bolts through to stop it from twisting around. It's pretty solid and rather pro looking
View attachment 3
The battery tray is on its way back to me so I can finally install that and build the battery mounting ledges. I've been holding off as I want to ensure the precise height of the ledge is final. I was gifted a 300 x 1200 section of 6 mm Lexan, which is going to be used as ledge material.
The other exciting news is I managed to pick up a Ducati 900SS wheel for $250 and proceeded to replace the bearings to suit my 20 mm axle. As it turns out, 20 x 40 bearings don't exist, but 20 x 42 is standard. So I had to get the wheel machined out to 42 mm, as well as reaming out one of the inner bearing sleeves and the brake calliper mount. Hope to have that set up this week too.
Chipping away at it...
After placing an order for the upper fairing stay, I was contacted by the seller who said the part I'd ordered and paid $100 for was in fact the wrong one, and the correct one was a plastic mount with a space for the instrument cluster. The new part was only $50, so I said, OK I'll take it and you can give me some change. I got my fairing stay but still got no change :x . Looks like someone is going to get some negative feedback...
Anyway, after much head scratching I decided to use some aluminium plate and spacers, and make a front stay to bolt onto the front of the bike frame. It's not pretty, but it's light and strong. I took a bit of 6 mm Lexan and mounted this in the middle of the instrument cluster and cut a slot for the Cycle Analyst, and with a bracket at the back, I can now install the CA and plug it in with the nosecone off, then simply mount the nosecone with four M6 bolts where the mirrors are supposed to go. It's not really square, so I need to ream out the hole to the left a bit and tighten. Once in place I can put two more bolts through to stop it from twisting around. It's pretty solid and rather pro looking
View attachment 3
The battery tray is on its way back to me so I can finally install that and build the battery mounting ledges. I've been holding off as I want to ensure the precise height of the ledge is final. I was gifted a 300 x 1200 section of 6 mm Lexan, which is going to be used as ledge material.
The other exciting news is I managed to pick up a Ducati 900SS wheel for $250 and proceeded to replace the bearings to suit my 20 mm axle. As it turns out, 20 x 40 bearings don't exist, but 20 x 42 is standard. So I had to get the wheel machined out to 42 mm, as well as reaming out one of the inner bearing sleeves and the brake calliper mount. Hope to have that set up this week too.
Chipping away at it...
RIPPERTON
100 W
jonescg said:
Should have just bought both of them....one spare in case the thing goes ploughing into turn 1 gravel at 120kmh....
Hillhater
100 TW
Love those super light weight race wheels :wink:
and easy to keep clean !
and easy to keep clean !
jonescg
100 MW
Cheap too!
liveforphysics
100 TW
It's looking fantastic my friend! That is a serious motor in there, and a serious battery. Should make for some big smiles when you hit the throttle.
jonescg
100 MW
I think the motor is the centrepiece of this bike. Peaks of 150 kW on a bike just over 200 kg = massive smiles I should be clear that this bike is at least $15,000 away from completion, and my weekly income is currently about $100...
Some good news and some shit news.
The good news is I got my change from the fairing stay seller - so I can afford to pay the machinist for fixing my wheels. I also plan on going for a ride on the Blackbird up to Toodyay with a friend who has lined me up with the offshore work. Anything to keep me on the next shift out, and even better if it involves motorbikes!
Shit news is that I finally appeared in court to give evidence against the turd who rode off on my bike over a year ago. I never even made it into the courtroom as the charge was dismissed based on lack of evidence. Yes, despite leaving his own van at my house while he rode off on the bike, the sticking point was a positive ID of the accused. I only got my chance to use the photoboard two weeks after the event, and my memory of his appearance was fading. Now, 14 months later I couldn't recognise him from a bar of soap :x So no theft charges, no bike, no money, no justice
I should be clear that this bike is at least $15,000 away from completion, and my weekly income is currently about $100...Some good news and some shit news.
The good news is I got my change from the fairing stay seller - so I can afford to pay the machinist for fixing my wheels. I also plan on going for a ride on the Blackbird up to Toodyay with a friend who has lined me up with the offshore work. Anything to keep me on the next shift out, and even better if it involves motorbikes!
Shit news is that I finally appeared in court to give evidence against the turd who rode off on my bike over a year ago. I never even made it into the courtroom as the charge was dismissed based on lack of evidence. Yes, despite leaving his own van at my house while he rode off on the bike, the sticking point was a positive ID of the accused. I only got my chance to use the photoboard two weeks after the event, and my memory of his appearance was fading. Now, 14 months later I couldn't recognise him from a bar of soap :x So no theft charges, no bike, no money, no justice
Rodney64
100 kW
Bugger about the court case Chris. Fingers crossed that things go ok with offshore.
Bernel
100 W
Hey Chris,
Shame about the court case, I hope your financial burdens ease very soon as I am really taken with your build. It has given me lots of ideas to improve my first attempt.
What type of batteries are you going for? Are you sure those Anderson connectors can handle the current. I thought they maxed out at 350A?
Anyway keep your chin up as we say in the UK and I look forward to the next instalment of your build.
Bernel
Shame about the court case, I hope your financial burdens ease very soon as I am really taken with your build. It has given me lots of ideas to improve my first attempt.
What type of batteries are you going for? Are you sure those Anderson connectors can handle the current. I thought they maxed out at 350A?
Anyway keep your chin up as we say in the UK and I look forward to the next instalment of your build.
Bernel
jonescg
100 MW
Hi Bernel,
I'm using the 175 A Andersons, which are rated for 600 V DC. 175 amps at a nominal 620 V DC is still 109 kW from the battery, which is plenty enough for the most part. I have 200 A rated fuses which will blow at 250 A within 20 seconds, so even if I manage to extract 150 kW from the battery, it won't be for long, and the connectors can handle a little bit of excess. They aren't the best connector for the job, but they will be protected from the elements by the fairings and a side panel.
Since this is a race bike, I'm using the finest :lol: hobby LiPo from Herewin. It only has to manage a racing season or two, so I am not fussed about cycle life. It's a little over $6,300 worth of cells. The box, contactors, fuses and precharge circuits all add up to about $2500, so if I had the funds for a second battery pack, I'd best budget $9,000.
Going to see about getting a tank cover made in carbon fibre, as it's going to have the weight of a rider smashed up against it under brakes...
I'm using the 175 A Andersons, which are rated for 600 V DC. 175 amps at a nominal 620 V DC is still 109 kW from the battery, which is plenty enough for the most part. I have 200 A rated fuses which will blow at 250 A within 20 seconds, so even if I manage to extract 150 kW from the battery, it won't be for long, and the connectors can handle a little bit of excess. They aren't the best connector for the job, but they will be protected from the elements by the fairings and a side panel.
Since this is a race bike, I'm using the finest :lol: hobby LiPo from Herewin. It only has to manage a racing season or two, so I am not fussed about cycle life. It's a little over $6,300 worth of cells. The box, contactors, fuses and precharge circuits all add up to about $2500, so if I had the funds for a second battery pack, I'd best budget $9,000.
Going to see about getting a tank cover made in carbon fibre, as it's going to have the weight of a rider smashed up against it under brakes...
liveforphysics
100 TW
I've put over 450A through the SB175 connector with good luck many times.
Road racing bikes have surprisingly low duty cycle of very high power. All that time you're braking or light throttle the connector is cooling.
Road racing bikes have surprisingly low duty cycle of very high power. All that time you're braking or light throttle the connector is cooling.
RIPPERTON
100 W
The riders weight goes into the handle bars and back muscles keep the hips off the tank so not much force going into it.
The main straight of SMP is 17 seconds of full throttle and theres about 44 seconds of full throttle around the whole track (108 seconds) so thats a 41% duty cycle counting full throttle only, then theres regen and light throttle during cornering which dont allow any cooling and there are some hills.
Chris Im seeing your bike is going to be real quick in a straight line but its heavy, not going to corner as quick as mine.
Pro racers like Kev Curtain get on my bike and instantly relate to it cause it feels like a race bike. Kev did 2 laps on my bike, the first one was a 1m50 which is what I was doing then the next one was 1m45s. Imagine what he could do with a days practice on it.
We figured out that my bike was about 6 seconds a lap faster than Varley but I was 6 seconds a lap slower than Jason. Jason could do a 1m43 on my bike but he holds the SMP lap record on the Varley at 1m48.2s, my best was 1m48.3
After seeing Varley not have any problems with heat in their LiPo pack due to a very low current 450v system Im not worried about your pack blowing up any more so you probably wont need air cooling.
Click on the top video screen and fast forward to 14minutes
http://www.formula-xtreme.com.au/xtremema.nsf/ae935c889f6af056ca2575b60025ce7e/936d4652859f6356ca257bd0003a68a4?OpenDocument
Australian Superbike Champ Kevin Curtain telling me to readjust my handlebars because he though they were wierd feeling.
I said you ride for me next year and Ill adjust them for ya...
The main straight of SMP is 17 seconds of full throttle and theres about 44 seconds of full throttle around the whole track (108 seconds) so thats a 41% duty cycle counting full throttle only, then theres regen and light throttle during cornering which dont allow any cooling and there are some hills.
Chris Im seeing your bike is going to be real quick in a straight line but its heavy, not going to corner as quick as mine.
Pro racers like Kev Curtain get on my bike and instantly relate to it cause it feels like a race bike. Kev did 2 laps on my bike, the first one was a 1m50 which is what I was doing then the next one was 1m45s. Imagine what he could do with a days practice on it.
We figured out that my bike was about 6 seconds a lap faster than Varley but I was 6 seconds a lap slower than Jason. Jason could do a 1m43 on my bike but he holds the SMP lap record on the Varley at 1m48.2s, my best was 1m48.3
After seeing Varley not have any problems with heat in their LiPo pack due to a very low current 450v system Im not worried about your pack blowing up any more so you probably wont need air cooling.
Click on the top video screen and fast forward to 14minutes
http://www.formula-xtreme.com.au/xtremema.nsf/ae935c889f6af056ca2575b60025ce7e/936d4652859f6356ca257bd0003a68a4?OpenDocument
Australian Superbike Champ Kevin Curtain telling me to readjust my handlebars because he though they were wierd feeling.
I said you ride for me next year and Ill adjust them for ya...
jonescg
100 MW
Thanks for the Ripperton racing team press release Dan
My bike will be what it will be. I have no idea how it will go just looking at in my shed, so I'm pretty sure you'll have even less idea from Sydney. I do know that the geometry looks pretty good, and a COG roughly where a race bike should have one. It will weigh in at 210 kg, give or take 5 kg. This puts it at the same weight and power as a show-room R1. Can't tell me they're slow Lighter bikes corner faster, but this machine should hammer out of turns. Swings and roundabouts.
The battery won't be taxed as much as your bike, with 13C being the maximum I ever expect to demand from it. Likewise with the motor cooling; I suspect that a modest radiator will suffice since I have a fair bit of headroom. Still, I look forward to doing some testing and tuning in due course.
Any improvements on your machine for next year? Plans for a new bike?
My bike will be what it will be. I have no idea how it will go just looking at in my shed, so I'm pretty sure you'll have even less idea from Sydney. I do know that the geometry looks pretty good, and a COG roughly where a race bike should have one. It will weigh in at 210 kg, give or take 5 kg. This puts it at the same weight and power as a show-room R1. Can't tell me they're slow
Lighter bikes corner faster, but this machine should hammer out of turns. Swings and roundabouts.The battery won't be taxed as much as your bike, with 13C being the maximum I ever expect to demand from it. Likewise with the motor cooling; I suspect that a modest radiator will suffice since I have a fair bit of headroom. Still, I look forward to doing some testing and tuning in due course.
Any improvements on your machine for next year? Plans for a new bike?
RIPPERTON
100 W
Il have a great idea from over here matejonescg said:
They bloody well are, CPC R1's know as the heaviest bike on the track referred to as "boats" You have to be 59kg to make one of them go fast.jonescg said:This puts it at the same weight and power as a show-room R1. Can't tell me they're slow
Cant make the new motor, maybe not time yet, all I can do I keep my fat ass off it and that will make it go 5 seconds a lap faster without laying a spanner on itjonescg said:
jonescg
100 MW
Yeah, a good rider will drop seconds faster than any material improvements.
We just had our e-bikes stolen, so the race bike has just been put back further still
We just had our e-bikes stolen, so the race bike has just been put back further still
jonescg
100 MW
Progress!
Despite the shit going on of late, I have had a win with the bike at least. I ordered a Brembo 900ss rear wheel off ebay and it arrived in pretty good condition. Since I have upgraded the axle to 20 mm, I needed to replace the 17x40x12 bearings with 20x42x12s. This meant getting the hubs machined out to 42 mm; got it done for $100 locally. I also had to make a new bearing spacer to suit the 20 mm shaft, and make a new cush drive sleeve. Thanks to Entecho I could use their lathe and milling machine to get it all done in my own time.
I decided to lever the Pilot Pure tyre I had onto the rim and fill it with air. Tubeless tyres are hard to inflate with a bicycle pump :lol: I pumped and pumped and huffed and puffed, but finally got it on after nearly passing out from exhaustion.
Once I have a front wheel I can begin to get the fairings to fit.
So, if it looks big, the trick is to hop on and see how it looks. And it's not too big or unwieldy. I think it will shape up quite nicely.
Despite the shit going on of late, I have had a win with the bike at least. I ordered a Brembo 900ss rear wheel off ebay and it arrived in pretty good condition. Since I have upgraded the axle to 20 mm, I needed to replace the 17x40x12 bearings with 20x42x12s. This meant getting the hubs machined out to 42 mm; got it done for $100 locally. I also had to make a new bearing spacer to suit the 20 mm shaft, and make a new cush drive sleeve. Thanks to Entecho I could use their lathe and milling machine to get it all done in my own time.
I decided to lever the Pilot Pure tyre I had onto the rim and fill it with air. Tubeless tyres are hard to inflate with a bicycle pump :lol: I pumped and pumped and huffed and puffed, but finally got it on after nearly passing out from exhaustion.
Once I have a front wheel I can begin to get the fairings to fit.
So, if it looks big, the trick is to hop on and see how it looks. And it's not too big or unwieldy. I think it will shape up quite nicely.
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