megacycle
100 kW
Have they passed the drop test 
jonescg's NEW electric racebike BUILD thread!
- Thread starter jonescg
- Start date
jonescg
100 MW
At $180 each, I won't be trying that.
Evo said my motor shipped last Thursday and should be here by the weekend! YAY! Epic paperweight FTW!
Well, until I can afford the inverter and enough LiPo to turn it over.
Evo said my motor shipped last Thursday and should be here by the weekend! YAY! Epic paperweight FTW!
Well, until I can afford the inverter and enough LiPo to turn it over.
Hillhater
100 TW
$700 to fly that motor over from the UK ??
how much does it weigh ?.. I just had 15kg of stuff flown over for <$100 !.. 30kg would have cost me $150.
Sorry, i know its too late now !
PS: speaking as a fellow "unpaid worker" you may want to consider that the job market goes dead between end Dec' until end Feb'... so if you can set something up before year end, it can save you a couple of months !
Ever thought of being a professional EV worker ??
.... take up a job driving those huge electric mine dump trucks ! :lol: :lol:
.. You might pick up a few ideas along the way ! :wink:
Good luck
how much does it weigh ?.. I just had 15kg of stuff flown over for <$100 !.. 30kg would have cost me $150.
Sorry, i know its too late now !
PS: speaking as a fellow "unpaid worker" you may want to consider that the job market goes dead between end Dec' until end Feb'... so if you can set something up before year end, it can save you a couple of months !
Ever thought of being a professional EV worker ??.... take up a job driving those huge electric mine dump trucks ! :lol: :lol:
.. You might pick up a few ideas along the way ! :wink:
Good luck
megacycle
100 kW
Sex change to a hot blonde you would have preference over the blokes for the job.
Then again, you wouldn't have to drive a haul pack.
Those girls drivers are welcomed distraction when digging in the dirt
.
Diesel/auto sparky servicing them, maybe $100-200k pa.
Anyhow no such thing as unemployed, just seeking suitable employment.
Been of since Mid Sept and still choosey till it drys up :?
Never mind lots of shelf packing jobs coming up :wink: .
Then again, you wouldn't have to drive a haul pack.
Those girls drivers are welcomed distraction when digging in the dirt
. Diesel/auto sparky servicing them, maybe $100-200k pa.
Anyhow no such thing as unemployed, just seeking suitable employment.
Been of since Mid Sept and still choosey till it drys up :?
Never mind lots of shelf packing jobs coming up :wink: .
jonescg
100 MW
Thanks for the tips
I have a severance package which will see me through till January, but after that I'll be looking more seriously for work. I don't want to work on the mines if I can help it. The hours aren't appealing, and the hourly rate is no different to academia, you just do more hours per day. I would LOVE to work in the electric vehicle field. Too bad it's still niche market though. Who knows, it might work out?
Why don't I have more money saved? Cause I got one of these
100 kW continuous, >165 kW peak
250 Nm continuous, >400 Nm peak
5000 rpm max speed, 40 kg ready to roll Can't wait!
I have a severance package which will see me through till January, but after that I'll be looking more seriously for work. I don't want to work on the mines if I can help it. The hours aren't appealing, and the hourly rate is no different to academia, you just do more hours per day. I would LOVE to work in the electric vehicle field. Too bad it's still niche market though. Who knows, it might work out?
Why don't I have more money saved? Cause I got one of these
100 kW continuous, >165 kW peak
250 Nm continuous, >400 Nm peak
5000 rpm max speed, 40 kg ready to roll
Can't wait!
full-throttle
1 MW
WOW! That's a big f@#$er 
SplinterOz
1 kW
jonescg said:Thanks for the tips
I have a severance package which will see me through till January, but after that I'll be looking more seriously for work. I don't want to work on the mines if I can help it. The hours aren't appealing, and the hourly rate is no different to academia, you just do more hours per day. I would LOVE to work in the electric vehicle field. Too bad it's still niche market though. Who knows, it might work out?
Why don't I have more money saved? Cause I got one of these
100 kW continuous, >165 kW peak
250 Nm continuous, >400 Nm peak
5000 rpm max speed, 40 kg ready to roll
That is brilliant man. Love the look of that and can't wait to see it spin.
adrian_sm
1 MW
That thing is a beast. 
Xmas has come early for you hasn't it.
Xmas has come early for you hasn't it.
Spicerack
10 kW
That photo where you're behind the motor, Chris, is there a hole in the side?
Nice.
Nice.
jonescg
100 MW
I might have had a little moment... 
megacycle
100 kW
That's sexual chocolate.
Wots with hiding the rating plate, oh forgot made in? ???
Wots with hiding the rating plate, oh forgot made in? ???
Farfle
100 kW
Any chance of some internal pics?
jonescg
100 MW
Will post a pic of the motorplate soon, sorry I neglected to capture it
Farfle - That sticker there is to prevent me from claiming something went wrong due to manufacturing But yes, it would be very interesting to find out what goes on inside.
Farfle - That sticker there is to prevent me from claiming something went wrong due to manufacturing
But yes, it would be very interesting to find out what goes on inside.
AussieJester
1 TW
Lovely looking motor CHRiSKiM
jonescg
100 MW
It's a very well crafted machine. I think it's pretty impressive for its weight, really.
Real shame they've stopped selling one-offs to folks. They are only doing themselves a disservice.
Real shame they've stopped selling one-offs to folks. They are only doing themselves a disservice.
megacycle
100 kW
Ah can finally say i'm proud to be called a pommy b@#*d
jonescg
100 MW
What's inside the terminal block? Not much, but you do get to see how it is wired in Wye (star). The rotor is just visible through the block.
I held a spare 180 profile rear tyre up, and I might be able to get away with not needing a supporting bearing on the chassis. If I shuffle the motor across to the left just enough I can have a custom drive sprocket mounted comfortably on the spline, even if it's out half way. Not ideal, but certainly a lot easier.
I held a spare 180 profile rear tyre up, and I might be able to get away with not needing a supporting bearing on the chassis. If I shuffle the motor across to the left just enough I can have a custom drive sprocket mounted comfortably on the spline, even if it's out half way. Not ideal, but certainly a lot easier.
jonescg
100 MW
Now that I have my fuses I can start to do some switch gear layout. For reference, I have re-posted the circuit diagram:
Unfortunately I don't have a second contactor, but I can copy-paset in MS Paint. The Gigavac 12 seems to be about the right size, and it's good for 350 A continuous.
If you look carefully you can see that the battery box (220 mm by 320 mm) will contain the fuses and contactors for the quarter pack isolation. There will still need to be a box on the front of the battery pack to hold the half pack contactor and HV DPDT relay. That can come later...
Unfortunately I don't have a second contactor, but I can copy-paset in MS Paint. The Gigavac 12 seems to be about the right size, and it's good for 350 A continuous.
If you look carefully you can see that the battery box (220 mm by 320 mm) will contain the fuses and contactors for the quarter pack isolation. There will still need to be a box on the front of the battery pack to hold the half pack contactor and HV DPDT relay. That can come later...
Spicerack
10 kW
Here's another contactor for you Chris...
IGOR??? IGOR????
IGOR??? IGOR????
Rodney64
100 kW
Parts starting to arrive Chris. How long before you get the frame?
jonescg
100 MW
Randy has two motocross bike frames to finish ahead of mine, but the mock motor has been finished so he can fit everything around it.
I have paid my deposit on this, but by the time it's shipped across the Pacific if might come in at about $5000 or so. It will need at least another $2000 worth of running gear, and it's not like I have a Gixxer to pilfer the parts from There will be lots of fiddly things like fairings and shocks, forks etc.
So a quick running tally -
Motor - $11,000 shipped.
Inverter - $11,000 shipped.
Battery - $8,000 including all the switch gear and box.
Rolling chassis - $8000 all up possibly a bit more.
Chargers - $1000 all up.
I'm aiming to keep it under $40,000. Some people buy luxury SUVs for this kind of money!
I have paid my deposit on this, but by the time it's shipped across the Pacific if might come in at about $5000 or so. It will need at least another $2000 worth of running gear, and it's not like I have a Gixxer to pilfer the parts from
There will be lots of fiddly things like fairings and shocks, forks etc.So a quick running tally -
Motor - $11,000 shipped.
Inverter - $11,000 shipped.
Battery - $8,000 including all the switch gear and box.
Rolling chassis - $8000 all up possibly a bit more.
Chargers - $1000 all up.
I'm aiming to keep it under $40,000. Some people buy luxury SUVs for this kind of money!
jonescg
100 MW
A few updates to report:
The substation that is all of the gear necessary to isolate my pack has been improved again. I noticed with my original ideas that the discharge resistor which was across the main (ipso-facto, half) pack contactor meant that the two half packs were actually no longer isolated! Bit of an oversight, but rather than come up with a new and more complicated means to switch the HV relay, I decided I would just use a fourth contactor as the main isolation. This means there needs to be a sizeable switch yard on the outside of the pack. Altronics sells these clear faced ABS boxes which are just the right size that it won't be in the way of your balls on the bike, yet clears the lower part of the main frame of the bike.
There's enough room to bring all of the charge leads, 12 V leads, auxiliary contact leads and the main high voltage leads outside the main battery box and down into this main control box. I can put the relay logic for switching all of the contactors in here too. It's still tight, but flows much more logically. There's room for a 75 mV, 500 A shunt as well. The voltmeter would be able to go across the main outputs too, but isolation is going to be a big of a headache. So here is what should be close to the final high voltage wiring diagram:
Needless to say, all high voltage wiring will be kept inside conduits wherever possible. All of the low voltage wiring will be inside that soft insulation material to stop it from rubbing through anything.
So here's the logic:
With the key off and the bike parked, nothing is closed. All contactors and the HV relay are not energised. The discharge resistor is across the controller, which is isolated from the battery by the main contactor and the precharge circuit is open too.
Turning the key on energises the quarter pack contactors, the half pack contactors and the HV relay - opening the discharge circuit, and closing the precharge circuit. Some seconds later, the delay circuit allows current to flow into the main contactor coil, closing it too. The bike is now ready to ride.
Turning the key off de-energises all of the contactors and the HV relay, returning it to the normal controller discharge state.
Plugging in the charge leads causes the charge enable relay to energise, illuminating the charge LED and closing the quarter pack contactors, but keeps the half pack, main, and HV relay de-energised. This is so I can charge both half-packs at 350 V. It also means the bike cannot be ridden away, even if you turn the key on.
Make sense?
The substation that is all of the gear necessary to isolate my pack has been improved again. I noticed with my original ideas that the discharge resistor which was across the main (ipso-facto, half) pack contactor meant that the two half packs were actually no longer isolated! Bit of an oversight, but rather than come up with a new and more complicated means to switch the HV relay, I decided I would just use a fourth contactor as the main isolation. This means there needs to be a sizeable switch yard on the outside of the pack. Altronics sells these clear faced ABS boxes which are just the right size that it won't be in the way of your balls on the bike, yet clears the lower part of the main frame of the bike.
There's enough room to bring all of the charge leads, 12 V leads, auxiliary contact leads and the main high voltage leads outside the main battery box and down into this main control box. I can put the relay logic for switching all of the contactors in here too. It's still tight, but flows much more logically. There's room for a 75 mV, 500 A shunt as well. The voltmeter would be able to go across the main outputs too, but isolation is going to be a big of a headache. So here is what should be close to the final high voltage wiring diagram:
Needless to say, all high voltage wiring will be kept inside conduits wherever possible. All of the low voltage wiring will be inside that soft insulation material to stop it from rubbing through anything.
So here's the logic:
With the key off and the bike parked, nothing is closed. All contactors and the HV relay are not energised. The discharge resistor is across the controller, which is isolated from the battery by the main contactor and the precharge circuit is open too.
Turning the key on energises the quarter pack contactors, the half pack contactors and the HV relay - opening the discharge circuit, and closing the precharge circuit. Some seconds later, the delay circuit allows current to flow into the main contactor coil, closing it too. The bike is now ready to ride.
Turning the key off de-energises all of the contactors and the HV relay, returning it to the normal controller discharge state.
Plugging in the charge leads causes the charge enable relay to energise, illuminating the charge LED and closing the quarter pack contactors, but keeps the half pack, main, and HV relay de-energised. This is so I can charge both half-packs at 350 V. It also means the bike cannot be ridden away, even if you turn the key on.
Make sense?
jonescg
100 MW
Slight improvement to this would be to have the fuses on the outermost charge leads. I can *just* get them to fit inside the high voltage floor of the pack. It's getting busy, but I think I have it now.
Life size demonstration of the top of the pack - 320 mm by 220 mm, including the Lexan box.
Life size demonstration of the top of the pack - 320 mm by 220 mm, including the Lexan box.
jonescg
100 MW
OK everyone, time for another set of eyes to double check my circuit.
This is what I came up with using MS Paint:
Both circuits are the same, it's just that one is more 'PCB correct' in a MS Paint sort of way. Anything in Blue is a component, including caps, resistors, relays and jumpers. Red is one side and black is the other. The LEDs are illuminated by completing their circuits from the auxiliary contacts in each of the Gigavacs. This way if a contactor sticks the LED will remain lit. The charge LED is wired in parallel to the charge enable relay coil. There are some shared 0V Gnd headers to reduce the number of leads I have to stuff into one hole. The switched circuit is the positive side of the ignition switch, and unswitched is straight from the battery positive terminal.
The 555 timer and associated cap and resistor are designed to give a 5 second delay before the main contactor closes. Can you all check it to see that it's wired up right? I tried to build a prototype board and everything except the timer worked :? I have borrowed it from Amberwolf's post some time back: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=503974#p503974
At least all of the relays switch the contactors correctly, and the charge enable lead causes the half and main to remain open while the quarters close.
Finally, Full Throttle was very kind to draw this up as a real circuit board using real software (not MS Paint). Pretty nice eh?
This is what I came up with using MS Paint:
Both circuits are the same, it's just that one is more 'PCB correct' in a MS Paint sort of way. Anything in Blue is a component, including caps, resistors, relays and jumpers. Red is one side and black is the other. The LEDs are illuminated by completing their circuits from the auxiliary contacts in each of the Gigavacs. This way if a contactor sticks the LED will remain lit. The charge LED is wired in parallel to the charge enable relay coil. There are some shared 0V Gnd headers to reduce the number of leads I have to stuff into one hole. The switched circuit is the positive side of the ignition switch, and unswitched is straight from the battery positive terminal.
The 555 timer and associated cap and resistor are designed to give a 5 second delay before the main contactor closes. Can you all check it to see that it's wired up right? I tried to build a prototype board and everything except the timer worked :? I have borrowed it from Amberwolf's post some time back: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=503974#p503974
At least all of the relays switch the contactors correctly, and the charge enable lead causes the half and main to remain open while the quarters close.
Finally, Full Throttle was very kind to draw this up as a real circuit board using real software (not MS Paint). Pretty nice eh?
megacycle
100 kW
Can you put that in spice
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