JP spot welder

indeed, i've tested 60 odd cells assembled them into my pack configuration
and bought a secondhand kegerator (needed a new thermostat/ beer lines / cleanup) and taken up brewing beer whilst i wait!
not to mention changed jobs!
 
Should we be placing an actual order at this time? Or by your indication I am already on the list and will be advised? Thanks, RH
 
This is certainly a very good welder built using excellent design and engineering principles.

I have sent a PM - hope to place an order very soon!

Well done!!
 
JP,
I've been working on building a 16650 battery for years. Got about 1000 cells that are probably dead from old age. Hopefully will get to my battery building project in a few years. Got some questions?

1. What are your plans for the future?
2. Do you have, or are you planing on hiring help?
3. Do you expect to be selling spot welders in 5 or 10 years?
4. How old are you? I realize this is a personal question and please free to ignore it. I have a fear that you might do something like [Have children?] and have no more time to build and sell spot welders.
5. Do you have any pictures of a completed version 2 JP spot welder with the shrink wrap?
6. Any changes or plans for a version 3?
5. See the price of $160. If I send you $180 would I move to the top of the list?
6. Do you get tired of answering stupid questions?

I am also wondering how long it will be until someone copies your idea and starts selling "JP Copy Spot Welders".

Suggestion - Change your prices to odd numbers. See:
Psychological pricing

riba2233 said:
Not included in kit, but needed for welding :

Lead starter battery, 40 Ah - 130 Ah, or 350 amps to 1100 amps

Standard 12 V wall DC adapter with barrel plug
riba2233 said:
1. You can use standard 12V ac/dc adapter with 5.5/2.1 mm barrel connector (most common one), 500 mA is fine, maybe even less, but I haven' tried. It's polarity will be marked, it's standard negative outer, and inner pin is positive. There is a diode on the input so nothing will happen if you accidentally reverse polarity.
Is the 12V ac/dc adapter to power the electronics in the spot welder? If yes? Why not use a small wire from the 12V car starter battery?

Last question? I am guessing that a 12V 500 mA Trickle Charger would be fine to keep the 12V car starter battery charged. Would a bigger charger be required during a spot welding session?
41ugCfYZXAL.jpg

Sorry if I ask too many questions?
 
Headrc said:
Should we be placing an actual order at this time? Or by your indication I am already on the list and will be advised? Thanks, RH

Well, I got a very large list of people waiting :) But I still have to see if everyone on that list is still interested. I will notify you once I start taking real orders!

Lucasimas said:
This is certainly a very good welder built using excellent design and engineering principles.

I have sent a PM - hope to place an order very soon!

Well done!!


You got an answer! And thanks :)
 
Ok, this is a big one.

marty said:
JP,
I've been working on building a 16650 battery for years. Got about 1000 cells that are probably dead from old age. Hopefully will get to my battery building project in a few years. Got some questions?

1. What are your plans for the future?

I don't know for sure, I hope I will continue to sell welders, and also design simple but reliable BMS, and also some solution for connecting 18650 batteries without welding or soldering. But I haven't had any time to do both of that, I have something but it's like half done.


2. Do you have, or are you planing on hiring help?

Yeah, my brother started helping my, and my GF probably will soon.

3. Do you expect to be selling spot welders in 5 or 10 years?

That depends on many factors, but in this moment I really can't be sure :) But generally I would like to be selling some of my electronics in the future, yeah.

4. How old are you? I realize this is a personal question and please free to ignore it. I have a fear that you might do something like [Have children?] and have no more time to build and sell spot welders.

Why would it be personal :) I'm 24 yo, I don't have kids yet, but even now I don't have nearly as much free time as I would like to. That's why everyone can't get their welders right away, and I ask for little patience :)

5. Do you have any pictures of a completed version 2 JP spot welder with the shrink wrap?

They are coming very soon! Also I'm in process of writing detailed manual for DIY version.

6. Any changes or plans for a version 3?

Not yet, it's to early, and I don't have any ideas at all at this moment.

5. See the price of $160. If I send you $180 would I move to the top of the list?

Well, that's actually a really hard question, on which I can't give final answer yet. I have been thinking about it, it would be practical, but on the other hand I'm still thinking about morality behind that :)

6. Do you get tired of answering stupid questions?

I wont lie, sometimes I do, since I'm am an engineer in first place, not a salesman :) But, I will admit that I didn't get asked any stupid questions, in fact most of them make really good point :)

I am also wondering how long it will be until someone copies your idea and starts selling "JP Copy Spot Welders".

I think that I would be flattered if some chinese guys do that, but chances are extremely slim.

Suggestion - Change your prices to odd numbers. See:
Psychological pricing

No need for that really :)

riba2233 said:
Not included in kit, but needed for welding :

Lead starter battery, 40 Ah - 130 Ah, or 350 amps to 1100 amps

Standard 12 V wall DC adapter with barrel plug
riba2233 said:
1. You can use standard 12V ac/dc adapter with 5.5/2.1 mm barrel connector (most common one), 500 mA is fine, maybe even less, but I haven' tried. It's polarity will be marked, it's standard negative outer, and inner pin is positive. There is a diode on the input so nothing will happen if you accidentally reverse polarity.
Is the 12V ac/dc adapter to power the electronics in the spot welder? If yes? Why not use a small wire from the 12V car starter battery?

Last question? I am guessing that a 12V 500 mA Trickle Charger would be fine to keep the 12V car starter battery charged. Would a bigger charger be required during a spot welding session?
41ugCfYZXAL.jpg

Sorry if I ask too many questions?


There is a reason why I don't use same supply for both welding and logic supply, it could create problems and instability.

Also, battery doesn't get discharged much during welding, so that small charger should do, or just charge it now and then like I do :)
 
riba2233 said:
Also I'm in process of writing detailed manual for DIY version

Please make it so detailed and especially simple that a 5 year old could make it, because that is how old I feel when I look at schematics of anything. I'm good at following Ikea instructions so maybe make instructions like that, step by step. :lol:

Thanks
Ray
 
Hello, I do not check this thread often and trying to get caught up... seems Im a bit confused from a few posts.

I understood that requesting to be 'on the list'... placed you in order to buy a welder as they become available. Once available, I would be contacted for payment and the welder would be sent out. Basically, we are simply waiting for them to become available.

However, reading a few posts, it suggests that there might be another list to 'place an order' or people asking if they pay more, would it move you to the front of 'the list' and an unclear answer on the matter. I ask, because I am in need of a quality welder and have a few projects on hold as of now. Could you clarify the process for ordering a welder and rough timeframe?

Thanks
 
Thank you as very interesting and growing thread.
When he gets time he will run down list only one list. And work his way down for interest and not money. Till then.
No extra money list. Get in line.
 
mistercrash said:
riba2233 said:
Also I'm in process of writing detailed manual for DIY version

Please make it so detailed and especially simple that a 5 year old could make it, because that is how old I feel when I look at schematics of anything. I'm good at following Ikea instructions so maybe make instructions like that, step by step. :lol:

Thanks
Ray

It will be detailed, but still I wont recommend DIY kit to someone who's not sure about what are they doing, and who doesn't have at least some experience with electronics and soldering. Again, it is easy to assemble, but still, I don't want people to be insecure and waste their money.

DaddyOh said:
Hello, I do not check this thread often and trying to get caught up... seems Im a bit confused from a few posts.

I understood that requesting to be 'on the list'... placed you in order to buy a welder as they become available. Once available, I would be contacted for payment and the welder would be sent out. Basically, we are simply waiting for them to become available.

However, reading a few posts, it suggests that there might be another list to 'place an order' or people asking if they pay more, would it move you to the front of 'the list' and an unclear answer on the matter. I ask, because I am in need of a quality welder and have a few projects on hold as of now. Could you clarify the process for ordering a welder and rough timeframe?

Thanks

There is only one list. Unfortunately there are many people interested, so not everyone can get their welder right away, and I'm really sorry for that. In the end, everyone will get theirs, but you need to be patient.

You are right, once they are available, you will get notified to pay, but if you are on the second part of the list, that wont be right away, since I have to give priority to the people who got to the list first. But I guess that not all of them will still be interested, so in the end the list could be be shorter.
 
riba2233 said:
Thank you! Yes, I can ship to Denmark, no problem at all. I can ship to almost everywhere in the world also.

It will be around week or two, I don't know for sure yet.

@kepler - it looks very professional! :)

The you can put me down for a completed spot welder as well. Let me know when you need the money.
 
Hey guys, have been using this to make prototype packs for customers and it has worked awesome. Very happy with it. I did have a question about how you guys are building packs with this though, seems there's a lot of knowledge in this thread.

I seem to have a lot of customers that want to use some of our super high drain cells with only one parallel block, for example 4s1p. An example application is 15-17A continuous drain and 30A peak short pulses. The cells can handle that (for example the 25R rated at 20A continuous and very high short pulse ratings) but I'm not sure what to do about how to weld them together. Normally here I'd solder copper wire in series between the parallel groups but since it's 1p I'm not sure how to add more current capability to the nickel. I'm using 0.375x0.005" (0.15mm) nickel. Am I overthinking it and will the nickel be fine since it's so short? Or is there something I should do?
 
riba2233 said:
I don't know for sure, I hope I will continue to sell welders, and also design simple but reliable BMS, and also some solution for connecting 18650 batteries without welding or soldering. But I haven't had any time to do both of that, I have something but it's like half done.

I read that you are an engineer and I'm glad to have met you here on the forum.
I am a mechanical engineer and have been working in the automotive industry for more than 10 years, the company where I work we make electronic injectors for gasoline engines.

I would like to ask you if you have already thought to make an active BMS. As far as I know I do not think I heard of an active BMS able to exchange energy during discharge of the battery pack from the most charged cell to the lowest one with a current of at least 1 amp.
I'd try an active BMS as I have described above to see if I could get to the end of the charge (LVC) with a voltage difference between the more charged cell and the lowest one let's say of 0.002V

For the welder at what level am I on the list? I would like the DIY kit, how many persons are before me?
Regards, Simone.
 
The idea of active bms as you describe has been around for over 20 years.
With modern quality made lithium ion with their ultra low self discharge, it's simply not worth the added complexity.
You're talking about an insanely small amount of energy, you would not even be able to measure a difference in system efficiency.
It's all but been abandoned in favor of improving the batteries themselves - thus balancing energy is already very very small.
 
Jon@LiionWholesale said:
Hey guys, have been using this to make prototype packs for customers and it has worked awesome. Very happy with it. I did have a question about how you guys are building packs with this though, seems there's a lot of knowledge in this thread.

I seem to have a lot of customers that want to use some of our super high drain cells with only one parallel block, for example 4s1p. An example application is 15-17A continuous drain and 30A peak short pulses. The cells can handle that (for example the 25R rated at 20A continuous and very high short pulse ratings) but I'm not sure what to do about how to weld them together. Normally here I'd solder copper wire in series between the parallel groups but since it's 1p I'm not sure how to add more current capability to the nickel. I'm using 0.375x0.005" (0.15mm) nickel. Am I overthinking it and will the nickel be fine since it's so short? Or is there something I should do?


Thanks, that's really nice to hear!

nickel is really short, so it shouldn't be a problem, it cools itself via cells. You could just add some solder on it.


bigbore said:
I read that you are an engineer and I'm glad to have met you here on the forum.
I am a mechanical engineer and have been working in the automotive industry for more than 10 years, the company where I work we make electronic injectors for gasoline engines.

I would like to ask you if you have already thought to make an active BMS. As far as I know I do not think I heard of an active BMS able to exchange energy during discharge of the battery pack from the most charged cell to the lowest one with a current of at least 1 amp.
I'd try an active BMS as I have described above to see if I could get to the end of the charge (LVC) with a voltage difference between the more charged cell and the lowest one let's say of 0.002V

For the welder at what level am I on the list? I would like the DIY kit, how many persons are before me?
Regards, Simone.

Hi, there are around 30 people before you, but that number could change since probably not everyone will still be interested.


I also don't like the idea of active balancing, I mean in theory it's great stuff, but in reality batteries need less and less balancing, and BMS should be extremely simple on low level, because that's it's main goal, to function 100% of the time and to protect the batteries.
 
Finished off a new JP spot-welder pack last weekend. This is a 14S2P config to be used as a short range lightweight pack for my commuter. I will be limiting this one to 250W with 500W bursts which should be a snack for the Samsung 25R cells. Will be good for 30km range which fits in with work commute nicely.

Pack weighs in at 1450 grams including the seatpost bag.

No BMS on this one. I am finding the cells hold incredibly good balance with normal use. I have attached split balance leads that measure 7 cells per lead so I can keep an eye on things with a cell balance check meter.
 

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Thanks Kepler! Great share! I'm becoming a fan of small packs. Do you use an RC type charger?
 
No I just bulk charge the pack and monitor cell voltage with the cell checker. The one in the picture does 7S so perfect for the 14S pack. I am still investigating, but I see no reason why this pack couldn't be charged with an RC style charger capable of 7S and charge capabilities through the balance leads only.
 
Kepler said:
No I just bulk charge the pack and monitor cell voltage with the cell checker. The one in the picture does 7S so perfect for the 14S pack. I am still investigating, but I see no reason why this pack couldn't be charged with an RC style charger capable of 7S and charge capabilities through the balance leads only.
I have a iCharger 1010B I use to charge and test recycled 18650 batts but see no reason to continue that path given the low prices of new and far superior cells.

Thanks for the clarification and special thanks for the diagram!
 
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