JP spot welder
- Thread starter riba2233
- Start date
arek_arecki
1 mW
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2011
- Messages
- 16
my welding 84v35Ah 280pcs Samsung 25R cell
I'm very happy with my purchase
packages are sealed easily and connections are very strong
I'm very happy with my purchase
packages are sealed easily and connections are very strong
QuestionMan
100 W
- Joined
- May 10, 2013
- Messages
- 266
arek_arecki said:my welding 84v35Ah 280pcs Samsung 25R cell
I'm very happy with my purchase
packages are sealed easily and connections are very strong
Are all those welds necessary? It seems like each tab has over 10 or 12 welds per cell? I see most other people use 6 welds per cell.
How do you determine how many welds per cell you will need?
arek_arecki
1 mW
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2011
- Messages
- 16
now i make 6pcs for + and 8pcs for -
I want to make sure that everything will be OK
I want to make sure that everything will be OK
Allex
100 MW
Try to avoid welding in the middle of the negative side.
4 dots is all you need if the weld are strong, but sometimes on a few, you need to take 6.
4 dots is all you need if the weld are strong, but sometimes on a few, you need to take 6.
arek_arecki
1 mW
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2011
- Messages
- 16
Unfortunately, today, JP Spot damaged, do not know why. Probably one of the transistors burned out. I use always juas 110Ah 900A and nickel 0,15-0,2mm. The time I set on 8-12ms. I'll have to send JPSpot to riba2233 for repair
dssguy1
10 mW
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2015
- Messages
- 24
Guys, I updated my 3D printed spot welding fixtures on Thingiverse.
They work really well. I have already made small battery packs using 18650 and AAAs with no issues.
Try them out and give me some feedback!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205466
They work really well. I have already made small battery packs using 18650 and AAAs with no issues.
Try them out and give me some feedback!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205466
ScooterMan101
1 MW
Who has bought one of these spot welders in the San Francisco/San Jose , California Area ?
I would like to build some packs ( a couple of small 4s 1p and 4 s 2 p, as well as a 48/or 52 volt 5 p pack for my bicycle.
I do not know enough about also soldering/welding a BMS , where to get the BMS ect.
So
I would like to hire someone to make me a couple of packs .
Thanks
I would like to build some packs ( a couple of small 4s 1p and 4 s 2 p, as well as a 48/or 52 volt 5 p pack for my bicycle.
I do not know enough about also soldering/welding a BMS , where to get the BMS ect.
So
I would like to hire someone to make me a couple of packs .
Thanks
tomjasz
1 GW
This ever happen? Also I found a file for printing a 18650 holder and there were a and aaa holders too. Can anyone point me I can't find it again.dssguy1 said:
Also any versions that don't use so much material? Printer tells me, 4 hours.
Lurkin
100 kW
Curious, has anyone considered 3d printing custom 18650 holders per order? I talking about replacing the little individual click togethers for either end of the cell prior to spot welding. Theres pre made packs on aliexpress which I intend to buy and butcher (less space between the cells than the individual click togethers) but it would be so much nicer to just custom print the correct pack with no butchery/waste?
Finally I got my JP Spot Walder + Electrodes to work (already had footswitch and 12V DC adapter).
At first I bought only the welder, and I've managed to build electrodes on my own, using 2 DINSE connectors with brass tips industrially soldered and 10-25mm welding cable. It wasn't a bad rig, look at the photos
BUT (to put it simply) IT DIDN'T WORK.
The brass tips ALWAYS stick to the nickel strip (0,15*8 mm pure nickel) and the nickel strip won't stick at all to the 18650`s metal surface (tried both negative and positive sides, just to be sure).
This are the ”original” JP's electrodes, very solid and accurate construction
that works perfectly. Tried today (with the same 0,15*8 mm pure nickel strip) using a six months old VARTA C14 56AH 480A fully charged yesterday, and some dead 18650 batteries from a dismissed 18V Makita pack.
Originally, the Makita battery was assembled using thick nickel strip (at least 0,3mm) and I encountered some difficulties desoldering the batteries without destroying/ruining everything inside the plastic case.
Using JP's spot welder and 10ms time, the soldering points between nickel strip and 18650 battery have 90 % strength of original Makita industrial soldering process (maybe they rely on the same JP spot solder, who knows
) and I suspect the 0,3mm thickness plays a determinant role in obtaining a such effective result. I don't see the reason (with such weak 56Ah battery) to cut down welding time to 6-7ms, 2-3 ms more wouldn't destroy your new 18650 batteries, and using less time than necessary leaves you with less than reliable welding spots between nickel strip and batteries.
I plan to buy 0,2*8 mm strip, I'll post my result with it (have to wait 3-4 weeks, China is not so close to Europe ).
At first I bought only the welder, and I've managed to build electrodes on my own, using 2 DINSE connectors with brass tips industrially soldered and 10-25mm welding cable. It wasn't a bad rig, look at the photos
BUT (to put it simply) IT DIDN'T WORK.
The brass tips ALWAYS stick to the nickel strip (0,15*8 mm pure nickel) and the nickel strip won't stick at all to the 18650`s metal surface (tried both negative and positive sides, just to be sure).
This are the ”original” JP's electrodes, very solid and accurate construction
that works perfectly. Tried today (with the same 0,15*8 mm pure nickel strip) using a six months old VARTA C14 56AH 480A fully charged yesterday, and some dead 18650 batteries from a dismissed 18V Makita pack.
Originally, the Makita battery was assembled using thick nickel strip (at least 0,3mm) and I encountered some difficulties desoldering the batteries without destroying/ruining everything inside the plastic case.
Using JP's spot welder and 10ms time, the soldering points between nickel strip and 18650 battery have 90 % strength of original Makita industrial soldering process (maybe they rely on the same JP spot solder, who knows
) and I suspect the 0,3mm thickness plays a determinant role in obtaining a such effective result. I don't see the reason (with such weak 56Ah battery) to cut down welding time to 6-7ms, 2-3 ms more wouldn't destroy your new 18650 batteries, and using less time than necessary leaves you with less than reliable welding spots between nickel strip and batteries.I plan to buy 0,2*8 mm strip, I'll post my result with it (have to wait 3-4 weeks, China is not so close to Europe
).@bones007: Those are this ones:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Lm386n-op-amp-audio-amplifier-0-25w-dip-8/1781712921.html
And copper wire with silver plating is this one, but you can find it many other places, even ebay:
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Silver-Wire-1-0mm.html
@mcicare: you'll get PM
@lurkin: I've done that for one pack, it's a good idea if you have time, printer, and know how to get fine enough print, I've made it only in third try.
@rio: thank you for the report!
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Lm386n-op-amp-audio-amplifier-0-25w-dip-8/1781712921.html
And copper wire with silver plating is this one, but you can find it many other places, even ebay:
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Silver-Wire-1-0mm.html
@mcicare: you'll get PM
@lurkin: I've done that for one pack, it's a good idea if you have time, printer, and know how to get fine enough print, I've made it only in third try.
@rio: thank you for the report!
Finally completed my DIY welder today and started to experiment. Some odd issues here.
Using an 875 cranking amp (700 CCA) battery, 1 year old, fully charged and hardly used.
I started to test weld using a big C disposable battery. What I found is that .13 nickel welded fairly easy but still took 5-10ms, and probably closer to 10ms for consistent welds.
Using .15mm x 7mm took around 15-20ms. Something really didn't seem right here because Riba was quoting much lower ms. I also wasn't getting any sparks. Even at 15-20ms with .15, I wasn't getting strong welds all the time. .15mm was much harder to weld than .13mm.
The other issue was the positive electrode wasn't welding as strong as the negative.
I wasn't too happy to be honest and thought something may be wrong with the welder. I stopped, read a bunch again about timings and decided to go out again to try and do more tests to figure out what is wrong. I thought maybe it was because I was welding to a large C disposable battery which is too large to weld to and decided to try some AA smaller batteries.
While experimenting I discovered that how much force or pressure you use with the electrodes determines how strong the weld is. The harder you push, the less sparks you get and the weld is much weaker!
I never read anything about this and have read a lot, including this entire thread.
Riba mentioned in his video to push firmly, specifically when he was going to weld thicker strips, so I was pushing down as hard as I could! but that was causing no sparks, and weak welds.
The final test was I finally tried .2mm nickel. I pushed as hard as I could at 20ms, and my welder could not weld the .2mm nickel, it pulled right off easily. SO at my highest pulse time, and pushing as hard as I could, the weld pulled off with almost no force with my fingers.
I then did another test at same 20ms pulse time and I used just a little downwards force and guess what, I needed pliers to remove the .2mm nickel and they also had two nice holes in it. How much downwards force makes a huge difference on how the welds come.
So I am confused here? Why is pushing hard with the electrodes making the welds weak and causing no spark? How much force do I need to use?
Has anyone else noticed this? This may explain why the positive electrode is also weak because I was using my right hand, and that may have made me push harder with it.
What was happening here is as my welds seemed weak I was pushing even harder thinking pushing harder would make it weld better, but what was happening was the complete opposite.
Using an 875 cranking amp (700 CCA) battery, 1 year old, fully charged and hardly used.
I started to test weld using a big C disposable battery. What I found is that .13 nickel welded fairly easy but still took 5-10ms, and probably closer to 10ms for consistent welds.
Using .15mm x 7mm took around 15-20ms. Something really didn't seem right here because Riba was quoting much lower ms. I also wasn't getting any sparks. Even at 15-20ms with .15, I wasn't getting strong welds all the time. .15mm was much harder to weld than .13mm.
The other issue was the positive electrode wasn't welding as strong as the negative.
I wasn't too happy to be honest and thought something may be wrong with the welder. I stopped, read a bunch again about timings and decided to go out again to try and do more tests to figure out what is wrong. I thought maybe it was because I was welding to a large C disposable battery which is too large to weld to and decided to try some AA smaller batteries.
While experimenting I discovered that how much force or pressure you use with the electrodes determines how strong the weld is. The harder you push, the less sparks you get and the weld is much weaker!
I never read anything about this and have read a lot, including this entire thread.
Riba mentioned in his video to push firmly, specifically when he was going to weld thicker strips, so I was pushing down as hard as I could! but that was causing no sparks, and weak welds.
The final test was I finally tried .2mm nickel. I pushed as hard as I could at 20ms, and my welder could not weld the .2mm nickel, it pulled right off easily. SO at my highest pulse time, and pushing as hard as I could, the weld pulled off with almost no force with my fingers.
I then did another test at same 20ms pulse time and I used just a little downwards force and guess what, I needed pliers to remove the .2mm nickel and they also had two nice holes in it. How much downwards force makes a huge difference on how the welds come.
So I am confused here? Why is pushing hard with the electrodes making the welds weak and causing no spark? How much force do I need to use?
Has anyone else noticed this? This may explain why the positive electrode is also weak because I was using my right hand, and that may have made me push harder with it.
What was happening here is as my welds seemed weak I was pushing even harder thinking pushing harder would make it weld better, but what was happening was the complete opposite.
vehiculeselectriques
100 mW
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2008
- Messages
- 35
this is resistance welding, you have to be in the right spot of contact resistance to obtain enough heat to weld.
keep in mind simplified rule what you discovered yourself:
at same current
pushing hard equal less resistance, less heat, weaker weld
pushing gently equal more resistance, more heat( so more energy on the weld), stronger weld
keep in mind simplified rule what you discovered yourself:
at same current
pushing hard equal less resistance, less heat, weaker weld
pushing gently equal more resistance, more heat( so more energy on the weld), stronger weld
vehiculeselectriques said:
Thanks, makes senses.
I wonder why has this hasn't been discussed more often. Downwards pressure makes a huge difference that I would think it would have been brought up more often.
It could also be that the new designed JP electrodes are so skinny and well built that you can now hold them more straight and use a lot more force without worry.
Maybe it is just common sense to everyone except me
.
