Brake
100 W
Congratulations on bringing this to market. This is something that all serious ebikers should have in the tool box.
JP spot welder
- Thread starter riba2233
- Start date
cwah said:
Thanks!
I supply the welder itself, the footswitch, and the electrodes, which are 25mm2 cables with wooden handles and tip for welding. I don't provide nickel, but if someone wants I can send him a peace of nickel to try out the welder. You can buy it from aliexpress or ebay, I'll be happy to provide links and help with choosing most affordable option.
Weld is extremely strong, it's clean, no burns or even dark spots, as you can see on a picture in my previous post. It actually doesn't need much practice, only a few welds to find optimal pulse duration.
litespeed said:
Hi, I'm using pure copper solid 10mm2 wire with machined tip, which is cone shaped and smoothed out. I never have any problems with blowing, sticking, etc. Only if you use really low pressure, it can blow and leave a black mark on the tip, but just and it and continue
3 months ago I was developing, sorry.. It's a long process and I didn't want to offer until I had something that works great, like it should.
chucho said:Same question.
antippa told me to contact you after i was late to buy his spotwelder. But i had read you several times before and after that you were nearly finish with the welder and here i see it.
It seems to be very nice and portable
What do you think are the real diferences between this spot welder and the expensive ones sold? and with dn-10?
I thought that is was better to use less voltage for spot welding... is that true?
Real differences? Mine works from battery and thus is not limited to your outlet power. It also offers really controllable pulse, consistent every time, pure DC straight current, it's portable, lighter, much cheaper, and it's real dual pulse... For example, you can't weld 0.1 mm nickel with dn-10, and it's hard or impossible to weld 0.3 mm nickel with dn-5. And with those cheap welders, like 788 or something like that, you can't weld anything more than 0.15 mm nickel, and it isn't dual pulse (they lie), also you don't have free electrodes so that's kind of limiting.
Yeah, current is important for welding, but it's convenient to use 12 V car starter battery, also someone said that higher voltage offers faster welding or something like that (current rise time? I'm really not sure, but it works great nevertheless
) Brake said:
Thanks, my aim was to provide everyone with affordable and simple solution to assemble pack with cylindrical cells, mostly modern 18650 which are the finest cells you can use today
cwah
100 MW
How does it work when there are few layer of nickel strips? My current spot welder doesn't do so clean weld when there are so many strips.
r3volved
100 kW
That is super neat! Well done super nice package
chucho
1 kW
Is there any max A delivered by the bigger model with no limeted A coming from the batery/bateries? I mean if you had for example 3000A how much could your JP deliver? is there any max to use with your spot welder apart from Voltage?
I think i am loosing my english cause i dont undrestand if the tips are included in the price or not
I think i am loosing my english cause i dont undrestand if the tips are included in the price or not
chucho said:Is there any max A delivered by the bigger model with no limeted A coming from the batery/bateries? I mean if you had for example 3000A how much could your JP deliver? is there any max to use with your spot welder apart from Voltage?
I think i am loosing my english cause i dont undrestand if the tips are included in the price or not
It's really hard to say because I can't really measure A being drawn with my equipment. But A drawn depends on resistances in the circuit, and there is no current limitating in welder itself. So you don't want to use source that can supply too many amperes. So basically limitations are voltage as you've said, and internal resistance of your source. In practice, that translates to ~130 Ah starter battery for stronger version.
Yes, tips are included, they are a part of the electrodes, crimped together. So the electrodes include 25mm2 cable, wooden handles, and solid copper wire tip
chucho
1 kW
riba2233 said:chucho said:Is there any max A delivered by the bigger model with no limeted A coming from the batery/bateries? I mean if you had for example 3000A how much could your JP deliver? is there any max to use with your spot welder apart from Voltage?
I think i am loosing my english cause i dont undrestand if the tips are included in the price or not
It's really hard to say because I can't really measure A being drawn with my equipment. But A drawn depends on resistances in the circuit, and there is no current limitating in welder itself. So you don't want to use source that can supply too many amperes. So basically limitations are voltage as you've said, and internal resistance of your source. In practice, that translates to ~130 Ah starter battery for stronger version.
Yes, tips are included, they are a part of the electrodes, crimped together. So the electrodes include 25mm2 cable, wooden handles, and solid copper wire tip
Thank you for your quick answer
That is very nice :wink: But as you now depending on the battery brand you have diferent A for a 130Ah capacity battery. What do you think it would be the good range for 12v with the stronger version? 800-1200A? And with 8v would we need more A?
ebikedelight
1 kW
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2014
- Messages
- 307
riba2233 said:
I would imagine that not only a/h capacity is important, but cold cranking amps ? In other words, using a ATV or Lawnmower - Tractor battery that may have 380 a/h capacity, but very low cranking amps , may not work well ?
Im anxiously awaiting your utube video, so I can proceed to give you my cash . Would love to see your video, where you show this unit working on different thicknesses of steel, nickel and even aluminum.
Of curse, internal resistance is important, it defines cranking amps. But most of starter batteries with same Ah rating have same or very similar amps rating.
At home I have 0.1, 0.15, and 0.3 mm nickel, and 0.1 and 0.05 mm copper, so I can show you how does that work. Steel is similar to nickel, and aluminum should be easier to weld (I can only show you kitchen foil aluminum lol )
At home I have 0.1, 0.15, and 0.3 mm nickel, and 0.1 and 0.05 mm copper, so I can show you how does that work. Steel is similar to nickel, and aluminum should be easier to weld (I can only show you kitchen foil aluminum lol
)okashira
10 kW
riba2233 said:Of curse, internal resistance is important, it defines cranking amps. But most of starter batteries with same Ah rating have same or very similar amps rating.
At home I have 0.1, 0.15, and 0.3 mm nickel, and 0.1 and 0.05 mm copper, so I can show you how does that work. Steel is similar to nickel, and aluminum should be easier to weld (I can only show you kitchen foil aluminum lol
In the USA, you can use CCA to calculate IR.
IIRC, my farm and truck 12v battery I bought at advance auto for $140 after coupon (and including core charge)
came to about 0.0025 ohm
I use a Model S module with about 900 micro-ohm (0.0009) IR at 8.1V now (330Ah). I get about 1200-1300 amps.
cwah
100 MW
That sounds great. What's the level of reliability? And what happens if it breaks? Can you provide some sort of warranty?
okashira
10 kW
litespeed said:
Tom
I belvie you may have some other issue. Even with a perfect battery (0 DCIR) my setup would only do about 1400-1500 amps at 8.2V. If I went to 12v, with zero battery resistance, id get about 2100 amps. Assuming 2 milliohm, it drops to 1550 amps at 12v.
Maybe you are not pushing hard enough?
r3volved
100 kW
I'd recommend at least listing the exact batteries that you've tried with both your systems. It will provide some hard specs to help a ton of people figure out which brand and model they can use in their area.
dnmun
1 PW
the battery should not make that much difference. even if the internal resistance is higher than another you would compensate for that by increasing the length of the pulse. focusing on the type or size of the battery is irrelevant imo. just take the battery out of your car and use it. you don't even have to go buy a new one.
Sure, no problem. You can also check in the technical topic that I've linked to see what others have used.
I've used Schneider 12 V 45 Ah 380A(EN) starter battery, and two in parallel for my testing, and also one fiamm 45 Ah starter from my car.
I've used Schneider 12 V 45 Ah 380A(EN) starter battery, and two in parallel for my testing, and also one fiamm 45 Ah starter from my car.
BYqSXt8Z
100 W
sweet... would this be usable with a microwave inverter instead of the batteries? Not a deal breaker (by a long shot), but would be good to know.
*edit* removed other questions, already answered.
*edit* removed other questions, already answered.
litespeed
100 kW
okashira said:
I think I was pushing hard enough.....I wonder if the copper I got is soft copper or if the way I am making the tips is wrong. I also think there could be other circumstances like I'm not sure how pure my nickel is, if my cells are clean enough and or if my welder delays are correct with the voltage I'm using. Mine can go from 0 to 23.2 volts and supposed to go up to 10,000 amps. Looks like 1200 amps welds pretty good.
I'll update my thread once I figure some of this stuff out.
Thanks,
Tom
Ohbse
10 kW
BYqSXt8Z said:
No, this is for battery power source only. Transformer based welders suck.
Congratulations on bringing this to the public! This looks really, really great.
I built a very similar welder using 7 irf1324 powered by two 60ah 900CCA starters in parallel and it works great for welding 0.3mm Nickel. Other than my knockoff arduino failing randomly I have had zero failures while building batteries and it has done now many thousands of welds. No reason to believe this won't be even more reliable. Now hopefully we can stop seeing so many threads asking about DN-10 and other dodgy transformer based options.
