Kelly KDS48200 setup

[kwheels]

This is my first major EV project, and I need a bit of help on the controller setup. I've been doing a bit of searching and havn't found a whole lot on the setup of these kelly controllers. I've drawn up a schematic based off of the ones supplied by kelly, but will need some help.
I've attached the schematic, and have a few questions.
1) What do the white(5) and black(10) wires on Junction 2 actually do, and are they necessary for operations?
2) Do I have to use a contactor, or can I use a circuit breaker instead?
2b) if I can use a circuit breaker, do i still need to connect the green(4) wire on junction 1(that would normally connect to the coil driver) to anything?
3) does the red(9) wire on junction 1 require 48v to turn on the controller, or can i leave this disconnected if using a circuit breaker?
4) the diagrams kelly provides shows the use of fuses, at the key switch and before the contactor. Are these necessary, and if so, do i need to use a 200a fuse. I was under the impression that the circuit breaker was taking the roll of the fuse and contactor.



also noted, the yellow wire on throttle was not drawn in in the uploaded diagram. I now have it connecting to 48v to the red wire(9)

Heres the link to the user manual, schematics are on page 9. I dont plan on using a reverse circuit(no use to me)
http://www.newkellycontroller.com/mot/downloads/KellyKDUserManual.pdf

 

[kwheels]

I updated my schematic with color and digitally cleaned it up a bit. I hope this makes it more clear to understand

 

[rkosiorek]

i see you have a bad-ass controller capable of 100A continous and 200A for short peaks. that means you intend to use very high current but at fairy low volts. it is tought to find brakers that are rated 100A DC at only 48V.

i wonder what the voltage rating for marine battery switch/breakers is and if they would work for you. you can get those for up to 180A.

rick

 

[itchynackers2]

The white(5) is for a foot pedal switch (I believe originally intended for forklifts). You don't need to connect it to anything as long as you disable the "foot switch" in the software programming.

The black(10) is just an internally connected ground wire. You don't need to connect it either.

You don't need a contactor, and can use a breaker, hence you don't need to connect the green (coil) wire to anything.

The red(9) needs a minimum of 24V to it. You also need to have it connected during software programming (not clear in the instructions).

I didn't fuse the key switch at all, however if you do, 200a isn't necessary.

Also, note that your controller is 80a continuous, not 100 as mentioned above.

 

[kwheels]

i got it running today. still havnt gotten it programmed. its pretty fast though. running on a goped esr750ex with a prototype motor made for more torque.

 

[kwheels]

I've run into a problem, and was curious if anyone else had done this.

As im riding, every once in a while, the motor will make a chuffing noise, and the back tire temporarily locks up..usually under decel..at 45 this is not good...
My only guess thus far, is that im discharging the SLA's further than they want to be discharged, tripping the controllers LVC, and on the 2 second start up delay, the controllers locking the tire.

My reasons for thinking this:
it doesnt happen off a fresh charge...it takes a minute or two of riding before it kicks in
Error codes have included a low voltage error, and i've seen internal reset once or twice.

Does this make sense? What would cause the motor to lock up while at speed, under decel, and how can i fix it?

 

[itchynackers2]

I've had the LVC kick in at speed, but never "lock up" the tire. It just coasts. I have the LVC set at 44v, and my Turnigy meter will read a lowest volts of 43.8V, so pretty accurate. I can't really help on that, sorry. Seems like it may be a motor issue instead of a controller issue.

 

[kwheels]

i think it was actually a battery issue. I put in a less powerful motor, and it was still quick, but didnt pull as much on the batteries, and seemed to be alright. I still havn't been able to program the controller due to the crappy usb adapter, and lack of rs-232 on any of my computers. I found a new throttle that i like much better thats in the mail. When i get that in, it will be significantly cleaner