Kelly Phase Amps to Battery Amps
- Thread starter rg12
- Start date
eee291
100 kW
rg12 said:
these two are rated for 200A cont.
skeetab5780
1 MW
rg12 said:
I can play this game! One is black one is gray
izeman
1 GW
+1skeetab5780 said:
eee291
100 kW
Reading the manual also helps :wink:
Alan B
100 GW
Isolated is well defined in electronics and specifically for EV controllers. It is generally not required for ebikes.
eee291
100 kW
Do you want close to 100A or above 100A?
Also what voltage do you want to run them at?
The 72V KLS7245N is rated for 100A cont.
The 72V KLS7230S is rated for 120A cont.
If you want to go with a 96V Kelly there is the KLS96301-8080H at 120A cont
Also what voltage do you want to run them at?
The 72V KLS7245N is rated for 100A cont.
The 72V KLS7230S is rated for 120A cont.
If you want to go with a 96V Kelly there is the KLS96301-8080H at 120A cont
izeman
1 GW
it was explained to you several times now, but you must have over read it.
phase current and battery current are very different at zero rpm, but become the same once the motor reaches full rpm. more or less.
so if the kelly data sheets claims 100 or 120A continous than this is your BATTERY CURRENT RATING.
phase current and battery current are very different at zero rpm, but become the same once the motor reaches full rpm. more or less.
so if the kelly data sheets claims 100 or 120A continous than this is your BATTERY CURRENT RATING.
eee291
100 kW
+1 izeman
izeman said:
I got that, let's ask it like that, what would a 100A (battery rating) controller would be rated at if it was made by Kelly?
I ride with an LCD that shows me the current draw and when I use a 100A controller it pulls 100A battery current right from the start but the phase current of course will have much higher numbers (which I don't really care about).
izeman
1 GW
seems you still don't get it 
no offense intended!
have you ever seen the config frontend of the kelly controllers? maybe it may help reading the manual, it may make things more obvious.
with kelly you set phase AND battery amps. in percent.
eg. the controller is rated 200A phase. you first set phase as percentage of that. let's say 100%, so phase amp is 200A, and you then set battery amps a percentage of that. let's say 50%. then you have a 100A BATTERY PHASE controller. and you LCD will show 100A max. from the beginning. all the time when you go WOT. you could set it even to 60% which equals 120A, as this is the cont rating of the controller.
btw: afaik you could set both percentages at 100%, but it WILL make the controller overheat, and it's not practible.
edit: you SHOULD care about phase amps. this is what REALLY makes your bike powerful from the start.
no offense intended!have you ever seen the config frontend of the kelly controllers? maybe it may help reading the manual, it may make things more obvious.
with kelly you set phase AND battery amps. in percent.
eg. the controller is rated 200A phase. you first set phase as percentage of that. let's say 100%, so phase amp is 200A, and you then set battery amps a percentage of that. let's say 50%. then you have a 100A BATTERY PHASE controller. and you LCD will show 100A max. from the beginning. all the time when you go WOT. you could set it even to 60% which equals 120A, as this is the cont rating of the controller.
btw: afaik you could set both percentages at 100%, but it WILL make the controller overheat, and it's not practible.
edit: you SHOULD care about phase amps. this is what REALLY makes your bike powerful from the start.
izeman said:seems you still don't get it
have you ever seen the config frontend of the kelly controllers? maybe it may help reading the manual, it may make things more obvious.
with kelly you set phase AND battery amps. in percent.
eg. the controller is rated 200A phase. you first set phase as percentage of that. let's say 100%, so phase amp is 200A, and you then set battery amps a percentage of that. let's say 50%. then you have a 100A BATTERY PHASE controller. and you LCD will show 100A max. from the beginning. all the time when you go WOT. you could set it even to 60% which equals 120A, as this is the cont rating of the controller.
btw: afaik you could set both percentages at 100%, but it WILL make the controller overheat, and it's not practible.
edit: you SHOULD care about phase amps. this is what REALLY makes your bike powerful from the start.
But you said that phase amps and battery amps meet at max motor RPM, not max throttle (WOT from 0mph), so how will the LCD show 100 battery amps right from the start if by your explanation it needs to climb from much lower numbers in order to meet the phase amps?
Isn't constant current affected by the temperature outside? I don't think that in my super hot country I could pull 120A constant in such a small controller...
One big thing I wanna know about Kelly controllers...
Im used to the chinese non sinusoidal grintime controllers, they have such a hard start which I really like, like an old muscle car without computers, you hit 100% throttle and it spins the tire or throws you on your back if you don't lean forward enough.
I tried a few bikes with Sabvoton controllers and the acceleration is total crap, even when you try to program it to accelerate in an instant, nothing, like snail on an incline.
I asked about it here and was told that this is how they work.
Now, I've heard about Kelly that they open much better but still not like the "stupid" chinese grintime controller that doesn't have a nanny programmed into it.
Is that right? or I can make it open without any limitations?
eee291
100 kW
Note: I wrote this before you replied.
Lets take the KLS7230S for instance.
Here in the model name it says 300A
But if we scroll down a bit, it will tell you the continuous rating of the controller. Which is 120A Battery and phase at full load.
The 300A is just a 20Sec Boost
I have 5 years of experience with kelly controllers trust me when i say it can do 120A cont.
Also about your question, NO.
Sadly the Kls Controllers can not be programmed to have quite the crazy power response of a greentime Controller at 0rpm. But I did use this exact controller on an ebike with a MXUS 3K and it sure as hell can wheelie.
And i f you do manage to pull 120A cont. (which would need a heavy ATV or something similar) you do need to at least air cool it with a strong PC fan
Lets take the KLS7230S for instance.
Here in the model name it says 300A
But if we scroll down a bit, it will tell you the continuous rating of the controller. Which is 120A Battery and phase at full load.
The 300A is just a 20Sec Boost
I have 5 years of experience with kelly controllers trust me when i say it can do 120A cont.
Also about your question, NO.
Sadly the Kls Controllers can not be programmed to have quite the crazy power response of a greentime Controller at 0rpm. But I did use this exact controller on an ebike with a MXUS 3K and it sure as hell can wheelie.
And i f you do manage to pull 120A cont. (which would need a heavy ATV or something similar) you do need to at least air cool it with a strong PC fan
flippy
1 MW
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- Aug 12, 2015
- Messages
- 2,351
You can set the acceleration buildup and torque times in the control software. Same for regeneration buildup.
You can set them all to 1ms but then its virturally undrivable at huge power settings. Messing with the trottle range and mid point is more effective. Setting the first 70% of the trottle to only operate at 20% of actual trottle input helps a if you have a really powerful motor.
You can set them all to 1ms but then its virturally undrivable at huge power settings. Messing with the trottle range and mid point is more effective. Setting the first 70% of the trottle to only operate at 20% of actual trottle input helps a if you have a really powerful motor.
eee291
100 kW
flippy said:
Yeah but even if you put it all on 1 or 0, you still don't have full power at low rpm. That's why I went with the KLS7230S.
eee291
100 kW
rg12 said:
Not it can't throw all that power at 0 RPM. Also its not that small, look at the user manual for the Controller drawings.
eee291
100 kW
Yes, the square wave controllers can do this.
I'm not 100% sure, but I think the reason the KlS Controllers don't throw all power at 0rpm is because of the sine wave. If you dumped all power at 0 the start would probably be noisier, I think. I mean on max torque the vibration is already pretty crazy.
But I believe the Powervelocity controller from here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=75888 can do that. You just need to message him, or read through 35 Pages
I'm not 100% sure, but I think the reason the KlS Controllers don't throw all power at 0rpm is because of the sine wave. If you dumped all power at 0 the start would probably be noisier, I think. I mean on max torque the vibration is already pretty crazy.
But I believe the Powervelocity controller from here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=75888 can do that. You just need to message him, or read through 35 Pages
eee291 said:Yes, the square wave controllers can do this.
I'm not 100% sure, but I think the reason the KlS Controllers don't throw all power at 0rpm is because of the sine wave. If you dumped all power at 0 the start would probably be noisier, I think. I mean on max torque the vibration is already pretty crazy.
But I believe the Powervelocity controller from here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=75888 can do that. You just need to message him, or read through 35 Pages
This controller is also sine wave.
Are you sure that square wave have that kick that I'm looking for?
izeman
1 GW
The grin controllers you write about are really simple hardware. They are know as xie-change, Lyen or whatever... They are square wave and have a feature called 'block time' that enables FULL current for a set amount of time. It doesn't care if the FETs can take it or the motor can take it. I pretty brutal approach but it give you that bull kick like start.
The sine wave controllers (ALL of them which i have tested) have a smooth power application. Exactly what 98% off all users need. Probably not what power hungry ebike junkies like we want.
So to answer your question : The kellys also have this poor start power.
The sine wave controllers (ALL of them which i have tested) have a smooth power application. Exactly what 98% off all users need. Probably not what power hungry ebike junkies like we want.
So to answer your question : The kellys also have this poor start power.
